|
...if there are no maintenance records. === Backstory and sentimentality, can be skipped === I have wanted a Honda Accord Type R ever since they came out 23 years ago. I first saw one on a Norwegian TV show about cars (Autofil), and was instantly fascinated by this ninja black shape tearing around a wet track and the presenters talking about the communicative chassis, VTEC engine revving past 7000, sound deadening being stripped out and how if you got it without the wing, your mother in law would think it was just a normal nice Honda Accord.  The guy who owned the burger shop in my tiny fishing village bought a brand new one at our local Honda dealership, the only car dealership in a village with 2500 people far in Northern Norway. His son would hoon around in it, and I would be endlessly jealous while driving my dads 1986 Volvo 240 wagon. Gran Turismo 2 came out, and among Toms Supras, Pennzoil Skylines, Escudos and Toyota GT-Ones, my favorite thing to do was to take my NA tuned Honda Accord Type R a few laps around the Seattle Circuit and then watch the replay. I still have my memory card with the save with the car on it, and did a few laps with it just last year when I found a PSOne in the electronics recycling.  When going to college in Tromsø, me and a friend went to look at cars, and at a Honda dealership they had a brand new model on the show floor! I sat in it, and I still remember the precise feeling of the gear change, which was lightyears better than the Volvo I was used to. One came up for sale when I lived i Stockholm in 2006. I went to test drive it, but it was poorly kept and the syncros on fifth gear were totally gone, so the wonderful gear change I expected was like trying to stir a bag of gravel. I've looked longingly at them whenever they came up for sale online, and I've watched the price, condition and frequency of ads go downwards as they turned more and more into abused boy racers. For the last few years I've seen 2-3 for sale each year, and at best one of them has been in driveable condition. It's never been the right time, or they have been too far away. === My current car === I first noticed my now-car about 18 months ago when I moved into my current apartment complex. It would occassionally be parked in the guest parking or outside the grocery store and looked and sounded to be in good condition, so I was happy to see one still running around in the area. Then last month it came up for sale online! I was in a good place financially, so I contacted the owner who turned out to live in my building! The buying process was at best... strange. He was a very nice pretty young guy. Which is not a good thing for an old performance car. I test drove it, then spent three weeks trying to get a straight answer out of him about bulkhead rust behind the fender liners, and I even paid for a PPI, which while somewhat helpful didn't give any straight answers. I should definitively have taken care of that myself instead of leaving it in his hands. Finally I just decided that another driveable Type R wouldn't show up literally on my doorstep any other time in my life, so I might as well buy this one. I made a lowball offer where I could live with pretty much everything on the car being broken, and it was accepted! After an even stranger closing process on Saturday before posting this thread, I finally had the title and keys in my hands! Now it was time to figure out what I had actually bought!  The car had a huge folder of old paperwork and previous service documentation, but not the actual service record booklet, and the paperwork indicated that it had been missing at least since 2015. The original Type R wheels had worn studded winter tires on them, and the summer tires I haven't even bothered to look at yet! The interior is dirty as hell, but mostly fine besides a worn drivers seat pad. It has the most ridiculous exhaust ever, where all the noise is in the mid-range where nothing happens in the torque curve, then it gets more quiet when VTEC kicks in, yo. The stereo is some generic very bright DAB radio, and most of the speakers seem blown. I threw out pretty much a whole bag of trash that wasn't relevant any more or was just old crap from the car.  I ordered and fitted a set of Michelin Pilot Sport 5, and have put up a request for quotes online to do all the services including valve clearance and cambelt in order to completely reset the service schedule. A serious vacuuming and interior detailing will happen once the weather gets nicer. Once that is done so that I actually dare to drive the thing without worrying about the cambelt snapping or the engine eating itself, I'll start getting rust and bodywork fixed, and eventually fixing up the gear change to feel like brand new!   Other than that, I'm don't have a lot of space or time to DIY things, but I have budgeted for stuff, so hopefully this car will get back to its old glory again! Oh, and just to not make my other car jealous, this 2007 BMW 320d is my daily driver:  Thanks for coming to my TED talk, I'll take questions now. evobatman fucked around with this message at 21:44 on Mar 20, 2022 |
#
?
Mar 17, 2022 16:09
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 1, 2024 23:36 |
|
|
Accord Rs are cool and as a previous owner of a same era Type R if you have the VTEC kick in yo all the time make sure you check the oil regularly. Road tripped a 2001 Integra Type R from London to Gothenburg a bunch of times to see friends and always had to top the oil up every day after 500 hard miles. Especially on the derestricted parts of the Auto Bahn between the Netherlands and Denmark.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2022 16:57
|
|
|
Well it's been almost a week, and a picture is starting to take shape! First of all, I'm getting a recurring code for an O2 sensor, and I've noticed that my ridiculous exhaust is hanging skewed, which might or might not be related. Also, absolutely none of the workshops I have contacted have gotten back to me with a quote, except the Honda dealership who said they would get back next week. The car needs basically every service possible including cam belt and valve clearance, but somehow not brake fluid just this time. In addition, all engine mounts are shot and it feels like the engine is trying to jump out of the car. That's probably what has messed up the exhaust and the O2 sensor. I gave the car a good vacuuming and interior detailing, and washed the exterior. If there is some kind of award for worst paint condition, this Honda wins it! The previous owners must have misunderstood how car washes work, and driven to the kindergarten to let the kids wash the car with gravel. For a few years. Also, both front speakers are blown. Buying this car might have been the financially stupidest thing I've ever done, but on the other hand I just look at it and all the bad things in my mind go away!  
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2022 18:31
|
|
|
Congrats on the dream car! Looks good, from the distance at least  I've become a bit of a Honda fanboy sicne getting my Jazz so this certainly appeals to me too. And while buying something in poor condition and paying people to fix it might not be the best move financially, as long as you're happy with the car that's what counts.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2022 19:44
|
|
|
Yeah, the car is balancing very precariously on the edge between ending its days as a boy racer for increasingly negligent and abusive owners, and being a collectible classic. I know "investing" is a very bad word in AI, but I think if I focus on fixing the correct things and establishing a good paper trail of servicing, I might just get a tiny amount of the money I put into it back eventually, and in the process get many smiles per gallon.
evobatman fucked around with this message at 21:44 on Mar 20, 2022 |
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2022 20:36
|
|
|
Ooh that's a pretty color. Fond memories of my CL9 eventho it wasn't even Type-R, just the softer S. I'd like to get something like this for summer/project car but I don't think there's many in good condition for fair price left.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2022 19:48
|
|
|
Kivi posted:Ooh that's a pretty color. Yeah I just jumped on this one because it matched my dream spec (lack of heated seats and electric rear windows not withstanding). It had over a year of state inspection left and I knew it was starting and driving, so I decided it's now or never, because they never come up for sale any more. I have all summer to play with it and throw money at it. I got the car checked out at a workshop I trust, and it's both better and worse than expected. Oil leaks from driveshaft seals at the transmission and at the oil pan gasket. The Mongoose exhaust system is badly put together and need to be redone or replaced. Rear upper strut mounts and some associated hardware needs replacing. They did hook up my O2 sensor which had pulled itself out, and the car now completed its O2 cycle. Worst part is that the car has low power, and they recommended getting that checked out at the Honda dealership before getting any other work done in case the engine is bad. There are no codes, no strange sounds or pings, and it drives fairly well except for the lack of power, with a nice pull to redline and VTEC working just fine. The KN filter that some previous owner has installed looks like hell, so I have ordered a new paper air filter and new spark plugs as a starting point before I start looking into compression testing or more serious alternatives.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2022 09:20
|
|
|
Cool stuff. Really interesting how for the Euro Accord had diverged from the Japanese model at that point (which itself was totally different than the wide-rear end rest of world model)
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2022 20:05
|
|
|
That's super nice. I think it's definitely worth putting the effort in to save it. Just how bad is the rust? For whatever reason, Hondas really do not like worn motor mounts, and the problem is exacerbated if you launch it like a dickhead. I've seen a couple Civics in the junkyard with a broken torque mount and a dent in the underside of the hood.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2022 20:44
|
|
|
Very cool, congrats! What engine came in these? Edit: I looked it up and it has an h22 with a limited slip. honda whisperer fucked around with this message at 02:44 on Mar 25, 2022 |
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2022 20:55
|
|
|
I haven't checked the rust myself, but the mechanic said that it appeared to be just on the front subframe, and could be sandblasted and coated. I still haven't checked for the dreaded bulkhead rust behind the fender liners though, and as long as I haven't checked I'll be happily ignorant. The H22A7 has 209 hp in this car, compared to the H22 with 185 hp which is much more common in the Prelude. Not sure if the engines are interchangeable, but if the engine turns out to be toast, it shouldn't be too hard to get a new one. If the engine is bad as it sits now I'll still drive it for as long as it will run and VTEC will kick in. I did find some good info about clogged EGR systems and how that can affect performance, so that's on the troubleshooting list with plugs and air filter.
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2022 08:49
|
|
|
evobatman posted:Not sure if the engines are interchangeable, but if the engine turns out to be toast, it shouldn't be too hard to get a new one. Like Legos. Anything from the same engine family will bolt on with no modification. I don't know exactly what Honda did for the h22 but in the b16/b18 world it's usually cams, pistons, and the intake manifold that make the extra power. Just tune up stuff will usually bring back stock power on Hondas. Especially if it was owned by a kid trying to "improve" it. Add check the timing advance to your list. Moving the distributor to the limit of adjustment is a common "mod" that makes everything worse.
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2022 14:00
|
|
|
I got a few boxes of parts in the mail, so I started digging into things. One of the previous owners installed a very nice K&N filter. The thing with these is that you have to clean and maintain them every year, and as far as I could tell from the black lump of tar, hate, death and depression I pulled out of the airbox, this had never been done. I made a futile attempt at cleaning it, but I couldn't even get all the dead bugs out, so it was replaced with a brand new Bosch paper air filter, which cost me all of $10. The correct NGK platinum spark plugs for this engine cost between $45-65 per plug here in Norway, but Autodoc had them for $13 per plug, and delivered in just a week despite its somewhat questionable reputation. The old plugs were Brisk P2 iridium plugs. The only positive thing to say about them is that they came out light brown and dry, so at least that's something. I also used the opportunity to fit new set of ignition leads. The engine now runs more smooth and strong than it must have done since the mid 2010s. The bucking and misfires are gone. VTEC pulls really hard, and it has plenty of torque in the low revs. I still have a weird flat, almost dead spot in the torque curve between 3000-5700 revs, but it now revs cleanly through it. It feels like the ECU is artificially limiting it somehow. Also, now that the engine pulls stronger, the bad engine mounts are really apparent, and a frisky 1-2 shift in VTEC made it feel like the whole engine was about to jump out of the car! Next step is to clean out soot from the EGR system. I also have a new pollen filter, distributor cap, rotor and coil, but that will have to wait a bit, since I'm doing all my work in the parking lot in our apartment complex. We're making good progress. Slowly but surely we'll get there! evobatman fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Apr 2, 2022 |
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2022 17:09
|
|
|
Yay! A clogged air filter will do that, along with the wrong plugs. A new cap and rotor will probably help a bit. Did you check the timing? Honda used to build such nice cars. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 13:06 on Apr 3, 2022 |
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2022 13:03
|
|
|
From what I gather, this car (and the corresponding much more common fifth gen Prelude) doesn't have a traditional adjustable distributor and the timing is set electronically. Under 3000 is fine and in VTEC is fine, there is just some sort of weird flat spot in between. There is nothing mechanically wrong, it just feels like some sort of artificial limit is being enforced. The weather today has been bad so I haven't gotten anything done, but I'll try to disconnect the battery to reset the ECU next. I also have to get the engine mounts sorted before I can do much more spirited testing, because it's a pain to have to baby every gear change.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2022 19:04
|
|
|
Sort of on the timing. There's generally a connector you need to short out (with a paperclip or short piece of wire) to set the base timing, if it does have a distributor (it should, since it's an H). Any H or F series will physically bolt right in, including to the transaxle. I don't think the F series was common outside of North America though - it was only used in the US for 90-02 Accords AFAIK (they're reliable, but don't make a ton of power stock). H series swaps were extremely common in the US on Accords back in the day, thanks to physically bolting in easily, and only really needing the ECU and some wiring. Honda distributors haven't ever really offered much adjustability in timing, at least since ~1990ish - but you do need to find the diagnostic plug and jump it before trying to set timing.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2022 01:25
|
|
|
The timing is all ecu controlled but the engine position sensors are all in the distributor. The above is correct, you have to jumper something to lock the ECU to usually 16 degrees advance, then you rotate the distributor until a timing light shows the engine and ECU are synced correctly. If you can post engine pics. I'm not sure if your engine has any sort of dual runner setup in the intake manifold. If it does that could be a place to look for a weird flat spot in power too.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2022 14:38
|
|
|
Yesterday before dinner I decided to swap out the distributor cap, rotor and coil. Should be easy, right? I spent almost one and a half hour on just the distributor cap and rotor. What I discovered while wrenching is that Honda has put the distributor on just this car 180 degrees turned around from where it is on all other Hondas, so the neatly laid out screws and parts that are easily accessible from above on all other Hondas point directly down into the engine bay on my Type R. I went to start the car, and it ran beautifully for 15 seconds until I slammed to hood shut, then it died, and would not start again, only turning the engine over with the starter. I cried a bit, and went in to eat. With a full belly, I went out and disassembled and reassembled everything. Still no start. I decided to replace the coil, which meant removing the distributor. I got that done, and sat on my rear end in the parking lot and replaced the coil inside the distributor, and then put the whole thing back together again, minus the plastic shield over the rotor, since that would not fit with the new coil in place. I put everything back together, and tried to start the car. Only turning over, nothing else. Cry a little. Second attempt. I hear the engine spark ONCE. There might be hope. Third attempt. I keep the starter running very long, but cylinders are firing, if slowly and unevenly. The car coughs and shakes to life, reluctantly. I let it idle and warm up as I clean up my tools. I slowly drive it around our apartment complex so that I don't have to be towed far if it stops again. I carefully drive it towards the highway. Below 3000 it has become a torque monster! From 3000-5500 it is still slow, but now it feels like it WANTS something to happen there. When VTEC hits, it's a rocketship! I do a few on- and offramps, and it's so fast I manage to scare myself! Total time spent about three and a half hours. That screw holding the rotor on is a pain in the rear end since the engine needs to be turned to the exact right position to access it. Also, gently caress wrenching in the parking lot, my whole body hurts today, and there is no way I got every seal and mating surface as clean and tight as they should be. Also, with the car coming back to life the way it is, I have to wonder what the last three owners have been thinking, because according to the paperwork I got the car hasn't been running this well since at least 2016. I haven't had a chance to check the timing yet, but it looks like the Torque app might be able to read it. I'm also trying to find a shop that will replace my engine mounts. No pics yet since my wrenching is inefficient enough as it is, but I leave you with this picture of my new distributor cap that I took in order to remember where the spark plug leads go: 
|
|
#
?
Apr 12, 2022 08:21
|
|
|
The torque app might be able to tell you what the ECU is outputting / wants it to be. I'll be impressed if it can lock it to a fixed number. It looks like the h22 has a cap on the transmission and the marks are on your flywheel for the timing light. Googling found the marks location but I can't find where the check connector to jump for this is. Usually it's on the passenger side under the dash. It'll be a plug that's connected to nothing with two wires and two pins. The pins will be female. I usually bend a paperclip into a U shape and jam it in. Also it might be in a green rubber/silicone protective cover. If you've found the right one the check engine light will come on. If it has any codes it will start flashing.
|
|
#
?
Apr 12, 2022 15:08
|
|
|
First of all, thanks for the help with setting the ignition timing, any and all help and tips for this car is highly appreciated! I bought an ignition strobe lamp, and went hunting for the diagnostic plug today. My car does have an OBD2 plug, which I've used with good old Torque on my phone and an ELM327 adapter to read live data and clear codes, but I could not find the blue or green diagnostic plugs anyhwere in either footwell, even though I pulled up a lot of carpet. A tip from a facebook group said to look behind the glovebox, which I will do when I replace the pollen filter. I have been trying for weeks to find the rear engine mount for sale, but neither it nor the suggested alternative from an Accord 2.0i seems to be in stock anywhere in the world, so I will ask a workshop to just replace the three mounts I have found and hope that will improve things. I also have a fuel filter and both driveshaft seals on order. When those are replaced, the plan is to have the Honda dealer do the cambelt and major engine services. With nothing better to do, I did replace windshield wipers and pedal rubbers today, so that's some improvement at least. The car feels like it WANTS to pull hard in the middle rev range, but it just can't. It's frustrating, but it does keep me from getting speeding tickets! I leave you with the mystery cables I did find today. Two jumper cables in the center cubby, one of them with one lead torn off, and an RJ plug with a flat cable in the passenger footwell. Yeah, I have no idea, and I probably don't want to know.  
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2022 16:24
|
|
|
Behind the glove box is possible! For thr rear mount you can make it a ghetto solid mount. If you can get it out just tape it up then fill the voids in the rubber with window urethane. Once cured it won't have the slop at a price of more vibration making it inside the car. Also eliminates most wheel hop.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2022 20:12
|
|
|
TIL there is a Accord Type R and it's amazing. Honestly never heard of such a thing till now. edit : gently caress it, this can be the next AI showcase thread
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2022 08:45
|
|
|
The RJ11 cable has for some reason become a standard for remote amplifier controls, so someone probably had a subwoofer in it at some point.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2022 21:04
|
|
|
You do realize getting stickied puts a lot of pressure on me? Yeah, subwoofer makes sense, since one of the old inspection papers notice that the subwoofer wasn't properly mounted in the trunk. I haven't been happy with the starter performance ever since I got the car, and especially since I did the distributor and had starting issues. Some of the recent-ish paperwork mentioned the car not starting, but doing so just fine after charging the battery. I'm gonna go ahead and say that this was not a deep cycle battery, so I fitted a brand new Varta D47. (Don't believe the K&N sticker, it has been replaced with a brand new Bosch paper filter)     The old leisure battery (yes, literally!). For cabin, boat or camping. Notice what it's not for? CAR!  Also, the BMW E90 with its crusty arches got the summer Michelin Primacy HPs fitted, and the very pre-owned and very corroded winter wheels and tires were sent to the eternal ice races in heaven. I'll pick up a new set for cheap during summer. 
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2022 13:43
|
|
|
CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:TIL there is a Accord Type R and it's amazing. Honestly never heard of such a thing till now. What's really whacky is even Japan didn't get this Type R, being that the CH1 Accord was Europe only. At the same time, Japan instead got the CL1 "Euro R" - same drive train, different chassis, although somewhat similar looking front end.  Next came the CL7 Euro R. The US got this body style as the Acura TSX. In Euro R form it now came with a K20 with 217hp. (The most powerful K24 maxed out at 205hp in the 06-08 RSX for comparison). I still think these are great looking cars and drive really nicely. Classic Honda FWD goodness but nicely refined too. 
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2022 01:00
|
|
|
evobatman posted:You do realize getting stickied puts a lot of pressure on me? Please don't feel pressured. Its just about showcasing the cool, weird and wonderful things that AI goons are doing and this absolutely counts, so don't change a thing. You're doing awesome and that car is neato burrito! 
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2022 06:20
|
|
|
If it wasn't, I wouldn't have checked it out. Nice car, a fun little oddity that deserves another life and an owner who cares. Enjoy it!
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2022 16:23
|
|
|
Elmnt80 posted:Please don't feel pressured. Its just about showcasing the cool, weird and wonderful things that AI goons are doing and this absolutely counts, so don't change a thing. You're doing awesome and that car is neato burrito! Djeez, more like somethingsensitive dot com, am i rite? Thank you all for the kind words Today I received the driveshaft seals for the transmission and the fuel filter, and I decided to give up the hunt for the rear engine mount. This gets me to enough parts to warrant putting the car in a shop for some work. I emailed a shop that said earlier they might be willing to work on the car if I supplied the parts, so I hope they get back to me. If not, I know of 2-3 other options. Also, I'm waiting for the weather to get better so I can do the pollen filter and look for the diagnostic cables while I dig behind the glove box. Fingers crossed that this time next week things will have slightly improved!
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2022 14:11
|
|
|
Well, got a shop appointment for June 20th  I've asked them to do the three engine mounts, driveshaft seals, fuel filter, coolant, power steering fluid and adjusting the headlights. While I wait, I'll try to do the pollen filter and mount new front speakers.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2022 13:36
|
|
|
Today we do the cabin/pollen filter. Often neglected, it should be the first thing you replace on any car you buy, as it is an instant improvement. On my BMW it's behind a cover in the engine bay and could probably be done in 30 seconds. On the Accord, it's not. I armed myself with instructions from the accordr.org forums, a new filter, trim removal kit, gloves and a variety of screwdrivers. I drove to a secluded spot, pulled the trim from under the glove box, and tried to remove the screwhead bolts that hold the glove box itself. I went back to my apartment, got my socket kit, and drove to another spot to do the work. The socket kit made fast work of the bolts, and after a little while I was looking at this:  The filter is behind the big vertical lid in the middle. I disconnected the big blue harness connector, and loosened the metal bar at the bottom. I unlatched the lid, and managed to just sneak the old filter past the rest of the harness. AC cooling element visible:  The money shot:  New filter in place:  I put back the metal bar and harness, and realized I had forgotten to fit the lid. Luckily, it could be wedged in without having to remove anything again. While we're at it, I also refit this loose piece of trim that the PO hadn't managed to fit correctly when pulling the cables for his stereo.  Full of dust and bird poop, but just look at it  I realized I hadn't put up a pic of the seats. The drivers seat really should be refurbished with new foam, bolsters and cover, but it's still got a tiny bit of life left in it.  On the test drive after putting everything back together, the air coming out was fresh and cool, and my Honda now has better AC than my BMW. I also eliminated a bit of rattles that really brought down the whole driving experience earlier, everything now just feels more solid.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2022 17:36
|
|
|
Fantastic work as usual. I forget though, are those Recaros what came with the car? They are almost too perfect to not be.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2022 23:11
|
|
|
The seats did indeed come with the car! They are Recaro Trendlines, unfortunately discontinued everywhere, so your only hope if you want to fix them up is to find a decent used pair or pay for a custom renovation. My hope long-term is to import a UK passenger seat to use as my drivers seat, since that would be less used. I forgot to mention in my last post, no sign of the diagnostic connector cables behind the glove box either 
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2022 11:24
|
|
|
Those seats are so good.
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2022 19:16
|
|
|
builds character posted:Those seats are so good. My 2001 Integra type R had similar seats, they are great but not that comfortable for long drives.
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2022 19:42
|
|
|
"Buy a car with no service history" I told myself. "It will be just fine, really, how much could go wrong" I told myself. Went for a drive today, and the car threw a check engine light, and now smells like fuel, and the engine note is deeper and coarser.  Initial googling says it might be a multitude of things. God damnit, just as I was starting to feel good about it!
|
|
#
?
Jun 12, 2022 20:04
|
|
|
evobatman posted:"Buy a car with no service history" I told myself. A loose spark plug perhaps?
|
|
#
?
Jun 12, 2022 23:24
|
|
|
Sounds like an exhaust hole before the o2 sensor.
|
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2022 01:26
|
|
|
That would read super lean I think. Unburnt gas would do it but I'd imagine the misfire would be more noticeable. Check fuel pressure?
|
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2022 03:22
|
|
|
I got in touch with the Honda dealership. I'm sick of wrenching in the car park, and I can ask them to do all the other services and repairs the car needs while it's in there. I'm just gonna sit back and let my wallet solve this for now.
|
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2022 08:30
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 1, 2024 23:36 |
|
|
evobatman posted:I got in touch with the Honda dealership. I'm sick of wrenching in the car park, and I can ask them to do all the other services and repairs the car needs while it's in there. I'm just gonna sit back and let my wallet solve this for now. I cannot possibly overstate how wise knowing you’ve hit this point makes you. Well done. builds character fucked around with this message at 13:22 on Jun 13, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2022 13:19
|
|