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honda whisperer posted:That would read super lean I think. Yeah, I guess it would now that I think about it. There's a leak somewhere (intake or exhaust) though, I'd bet. evobatman posted:Went for a drive today, and the car threw a check engine light, and now smells like fuel, and the engine note is deeper and coarser. I think I read this and just immediately thought "exhaust leak."
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Jun 14, 2022 03:22
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Suburban Dad posted:I think I read this and just immediately thought "exhaust leak." Probably a hole in a flex coupling or something, as I think on Hondas those are predominantly post-primary O2? They also get hammered hard from bad motor mounts as the engine flops around under throttle.
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Jun 14, 2022 03:44
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I think on Hondas those are predominantly post-primary O2? 80s and 90s Hondas with a 4 cylinder, yup. No idea on newer stuff.
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Jun 14, 2022 07:15
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Thanks for all your ideas! I deleted the error codes and went for a drive yesterday, and everything seemed to be back to the way it was before the error codes hit, so yay, an intermittent problem! To see if it was my speakers or my head unit that was the cause of the bad sound quality I picked up an old Pioneer DEH-3100R, which happens to be the exact same head unit I put in my dads Volvo 240 when I had just gotten my license over 20 years ago! Funny how much nostalgia and muscle memory came back when operating it. The conclusion was that both head unit and speakers are working correctly, the car is just a very very poor environment for music. No wonder the previous owner had a subwoofer! I'm gonna fit the upgraded front speakers I have, but not do anything beyond that, because it's not worth it. The estimate from the dealer for the work I asked to be done came back at $5000, before they had even seen the car or done any diagnosis on it! I asked them to look it over, do diagnosis and engine mounts and some fluids and filters and stuff, and then I'll look for independents to do the cam belt and other bigger things. This car was meant to be stupid with money, but not downright moronic!
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Jun 15, 2022 11:41
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evobatman posted:the car is just a very very poor environment for music. This era of car is a lot more 'tin box' than modern ones which are so heavy and insulated from the world outside you can actually wedge in decent sounding systems from factory because it won't be fighting as much outside interference. Bit of sound deadening will definitely help but you already know it'll never be fantastic, just decent/acceptable. If you can get it to a point where it isn't actively ruining your favourite tunes to the point where you'd rather just drive with the stereo off then you're good. 
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Jun 15, 2022 13:17
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Well this is a car where you paid extra to have the sound deadening removed, so none of it is going back in  Appointment at the dealership is July fifth, so by then it will be over two months without any real progress  I was expecting the expense, but I was not expecting that it would take weeks and months to get things done. I have been spoiled with the BMW where parts are immediately available from 4-5 independent vendors, and all jobs can be done according to book, so the shops can slot it in within 2-3 days.E: Jeez that's a hell of a smiley, but I'm keeping it!
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Jun 15, 2022 14:00
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evobatman posted:Well this is a car where you paid extra to have the sound deadening removed, so none of it is going back in There we go then! 
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Jun 15, 2022 14:30
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I deleted the error codes on the Honda and they came back after a couple of drives, otherwise no news there, just waiting for it to go to the dealer on Tuesday next week. I did find another independent workshop willing to work on it, so I'm gonna take it there after the dealer does their thing. In the meantime, I gave the E91 some love tonight. Checked tire pressures, tightened lug bolts, vacuumed the interior, checked fluids, fueled it up, gave it the most expensive option at the car wash and fit a cell phone mount to the windshield, so it's now ready for a 220 mile road trip on Saturday. I tested a 2013 F10 535D Touring today and have also tried some brand new 5 and 3 series cars, and I'm always surprised when I get back into the E91 to feel just how much of its DNA is present in the newer and bigger cars. I'm a BMW enthusiastic fan and have also owned a V8 E34 530 and 323i E36, but I am not a fanatic or expert, and IMO I really think the E90 platform might be one of their all-time best ones. 
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Jun 30, 2022 22:55
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Honda has been handed over to the dealer! Verdict to follow in a day or two. Maybe it's a good thing our pilots are on strike and my summer vacation might get refunded.
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Jul 4, 2022 15:01
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Well ladies and germs, almost a month later and $3073 lighter in my wallet, it's back in my parking lot! My summer vacation in New York did get cancelled due to global logistics, so instead I got to spend my money on the Honda. The CEL seems to be gone after the fuel filter was replaced. Three engine mounts were replaced, as the dealer was unable to source the final rear mount. A serious power steering leak was fixed, power steering fluid and coolant was replaced, and driveshaft seals and transmission fluid was replaced. I can now do a full throttle and VTEC 1-2 shift without the engine feeling like it's going to jump out of the car, which is a BIG improvement! It still feels like there's a lack of power in the midrange, but the dealer didn't notice anything, and I'm thinking that maybe my expectations are wrong since my last NA four cylinder car was a Saab 9000i I owned from 2003-2006, and I've been driving a Saab Turbo and BMW V8, straight six and turbodiesel car since then. All in all I can't say I'm happy about having spent over $3000 at the dealer, and not having any huge improvements, and my enthusiasm has cooled slightly. I'm gonna do the cambelt and ancillary belts and fluids so that the service schedule is completely reset and the car is attractive for the next owner, but I might hold back a bit on the detailing and cosmetic and other minor improvements I was planning. Now the E91s transmission has started acting up after being flawless since I got it in Jan 2013, and the front end is shaking heavily under light braking. I might never have money again!
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Jul 29, 2022 13:21
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Good news on the E91: The front vibrations were just the brake discs. Bad news on the E91: The rear subframe is rusted beyond rescue, and needs to be replaced. I'll get the brake discs done together with an oil service, and a local guy has a bunch of subframes for $2-300. That's the difference in trying to find parts for a car built in millions, and a car like the Honda that's built in the thousands! Still no progress on the Honda, the shop I found that was willing to work on it hasn't gotten back to me even after I checked in on them a week ago and they said they were looking for parts.
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Aug 12, 2022 18:49
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That’s too bad. All I can say is keep at it. You’re doing right by the cars at least.
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Aug 13, 2022 11:48
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evobatman posted:It still feels like there's a lack of power in the midrange, but the dealer didn't notice anything, and I'm thinking that maybe my expectations are wrong since my last NA four cylinder car was a Saab 9000i I owned from 2003-2006, and I've been driving a Saab Turbo and BMW V8, straight six and turbodiesel car since then. Regularly driving turbo cars will absolutely skew your expectations on midrange torque. At first I thought there was something wrong on my GTV's 3-liter V6 as well, coming from a small 1.4 turbo with a tune. Above 4000 rpm however the V6 continues pulling like a train whereas the little turbo starts to feel diesel-like, begging for a gearchange.
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Aug 13, 2022 14:00
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Thanks for the support, it does help! Even if the midrange isn't what I'm used to, there is definitively some issue left to sort out. I'm strongly suspecting the EGR system, since people on the Accord R forums say they notice a huge difference in driveability after cleaning it out. Imagine your nose being clogged and only being able to breathe trough your mouth, that's what throttle in the midrange feels like. The hardware is all on top of the intake manifold towards the firewall, but it was JUST cramped enough that I don't want to do it in the parking lot, but will try to find somewhere indoors and well lit to get it done. I put new Bosch wipers front and rear on the E91 yesterday, vacuumed it, washed the floor mats with a drill brush and cleaned the interior with wipes. Will try to pick up a new subframe next week, and have requested a quote for an oil change and new front brake disks while I man up to get the big job done. I used the same wipes on the Honda today, but they somehow weren't right for its interior, since it now looks like the dashboard is furry! I did unhook my broken powered radio antenna, so I don't have to listen to it grinding every time I turn the ignition on and off, and found some rust in the trunk floor while I was at it. Not critical, but another thing to add to the list. Now, pictures!   
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Aug 14, 2022 17:38
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I feel for you after owning some JDM imports they didn’t have good manufacture and aftermarket support. Ended up having to adapt Civic stuff for a DC5 integra. It worked out as they were similar but you always wonder if it isn’t the best solution. Of course none of the Acura RSX stuff really fits as it uses different suspension, engine, transmission etc…
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Aug 14, 2022 19:47
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This thing really reminds me of the MY03 TL Type-S A-Spec they released here. That one is a J32 V6, though, and fairly sure it's automatic.
Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 06:41 on Aug 15, 2022 |
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Aug 15, 2022 06:38
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The TL dashboard design seems to be very similar, even if the actual technology in it is a lot more advanced, so there probably is a lot of shared DNA between them. The shop I was talking to about the Honda gave me the goahead to get parts, and said they would do the labor, so I have started piecing together everything needed. Trying to get all the seals, belts and gaskets in the area. I also got a used EGR valve on eBay so I can try cleaning it and just swapping out the old one to see if it affects the driveability issues. In E91 news, I got this for $300:  Still gonna be a ton in labor, but it should save me at least a little money.
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Aug 20, 2022 17:53
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 Looks great. Hopefully a new/clean EGR helps too.
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Aug 22, 2022 03:51
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Well my brilliant thrifty mind didn't bother to check what car the used E91 subframe came from. It was nice and solid, but off of a 316i, where the suspension and wheel hub components don't match. Together with an oil service, alignment and the cost of moving the components from the old subframe to the new one, it would have been cheaper just to buy a new subframe, control arms and mounting hardware and move the diff and hubs from the old one. The shop did put on a little extra camber in the rear though, just to make living with a BMW a little more spicy. ("Spissing" is toe in or out). I only did the short trip from the garage to home, but it did feel like a completely different (and much better) car!  The parts for doing the all the work in the cambelt area of the Honda has arrived, but I might wait a week or two, just to financially recover a little. Total cost on the BMW including the used subframe was over $3600. I think after getting the new subframe rustproofed and the Honda cambelt is done, I'm done for this year with these projects, and we'll resume in spring next year! I have had the 'rona over the last week and am still not completely recovered, so haven't had chance to do the EGR stuff, but I am looking forward to it once I feel better!
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Sep 5, 2022 16:26
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You gotta be loving making GBS threads me! Almost two months of waiting for the independent shop to change the cam belt on the Honda, and they chickened out! They didn't want to do it without the special tools to lock in the position of the balance shaft and didn't have the hollow sockets needed to adjust the valves, so they didn't want to take on the job. They did give me a $50 giftcard though, and I've used them earlier for jobs that require actual mechanical aptitude in place of just reading service manuals, so I'm not mad. Please don't put in the newspaper that I got mad. I'll try my other trusted independent, and if they don't want to do it, I guess I'll have to crawl back to the Honda dealership and double the cost. The BMW is due for its biannual safety inspection, and needs new brake fluid and discs and pads up front. It's also giving a bunch of error codes on one of the O2 sensors after the exhaust was dropped to fit the rear subframe. I'll take it to the place that couldn't work on the Honda, as they are pretty good when it comes to working on older cars and using cheaper aftermarket parts. No need to pay $150 for a BMW brake disc, when a Bosch or Bilstein one can be had for $50-70! I haven't gotten the EGR stuff on the Honda done because I've been alternating between ill and lazy, and now that fall is here, the weather might not give me the opportunity again on this side of winter. I'm also suspecting the O2 sensors might be old and giving wrong readings without triggering the check engine light, but those cost money and can wait until the EGR is done. I gotta say, this is not the way I expected things to go, but I'll keep pushing on to get people to take my money!
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Nov 1, 2022 20:44
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That sucks and honda timing belts are so easy. Good luck at shop 2.
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Nov 1, 2022 20:51
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I may consider offering to buy them the tools they need, probably doesn’t double the cost like going to the dealer and would probably make you look like the best customer ever.
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Nov 1, 2022 21:50
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Yeah, I already ordered one of them today, will look around a bit for options for the valve adjustment kit as it's a bit more costly.
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Nov 2, 2022 17:21
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Is this applicable to your engine? https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-prelude-4/diy-h22a-valve-adjustment-618786/
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Nov 2, 2022 18:06
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Yep, my engine is an H22A7, so it's pretty much the same. I'm guessing any decent shop should have a long hollow socket made for doing exactly that job. I'd do ALL of this myself if I had somewhere dry and sheltered and I could leave the car there for when I just wanted to work on it, but my only options are doing it outside in my apartment complex car park, or paying to get it done at a shop. I already had one close call with the ignition coil and distributor where the car was reluctant to start after I worked on it in the car park, so I don't want to do something that might leave it undriveable there.
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Nov 2, 2022 19:38
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Do you maybe have a friend with a garage? That's where I fixed my shitbox. Or renting one for a few month in the worst case could be an option.
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Nov 2, 2022 20:14
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Ladies & Goons, I hope you are ready for some good news! First of all, the BMW passed its safety inspection on the first try without any issues and is good for two more years. Second of all, the Honda. I finally got a shop to look at it, it's been in since Monday this week, and I picked it up just an hour ago. Mechanic: Has your engine been working like it should? Me: No, I've been noticing power missing in the midrange and trying to figure out what it is. Mechanic: Well I think I know why, because your timing belt was a few teeth misaligned! It's like a completely different car now, shittons of power (all off its 212 hp), all the midrange torque back, and it's just dancing! The cambelt was last changed in 2013, so it has been almost 10 years and four owners with an asthmathic wheezing car with no power! I have now finally fully reset the service schedule and mechanical bits, and I can now start on making it nice and good fixing rust, paint, suspension bits, stereo and so on! Thank you all for following the thread so far, and we look forward to more positivity from this point!
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Nov 25, 2022 11:47
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Do you have service history showing the belt was done by a shop? If I can degree a cam on a SBC then so called professionals should be able to do a belt on a modern engine.
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Nov 25, 2022 13:56
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BigPaddy posted:Do you have service history showing the belt was done by a shop? If I can degree a cam on a SBC then so called professionals should be able to do a belt on a modern engine. I have the receipt in my folder of documentation, so it's a mystery to me how it can have happened and have gone undetected for so long, but then again people just want cool cars and don't know how they are supposed to work. I don't know how a shop can have missed it, because EVERYTHING is marked up, you just align the marks on belt and pulleys, turn over the engine by hand, and check that it's still good. I even managed to take the head off of my Saab 9000 with timing chain many years ago and put it back together fine just by doing this. It's just such a huge relief that it works like it's supposed to now, there has been many tears of joy today!
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Nov 25, 2022 14:49
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Well I've had a few weeks now to run around and have VTEC kick in at every opportunity. I put one of my friends in the drivers seat and told him to just floor it to 8000 in second gear, and he loved it a lot! It's been frosty the last few days, so I haven't done much driving on the Michelins. I don't want to sail sideways into a wall, so I went to my regular tire place and got a set of winter tires on my 17" early 2000s DOTZ wheels that came with the car. The selection in 215/45-17 with an 87W rating isn't great, so I ended up with a brand called Sailun Winterpro. It doesn't go great in reviews, but since I'll mostly drive the BMW in the winter, it doesn't matter. The car is now "complete". I'll add up all the receipts from this year eventually to see what the financial damage has been. Next year we start on bodywork! Now - pictures!   
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Dec 6, 2022 17:17
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90s Honda best Honda. So glad you got the power back.
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Dec 6, 2022 19:22
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I literally do not understand how it can have gone through several owners and dealerships since 2013 and nobody has had any suspicions that it was not running right! It was owned by a Honda dealership family, and I had it at the Honda dealership here, specifically asking them to check why it was running so bad, and they came back with nothing! I added up all the invoices I had now. I thought it would be bad, but it was actually a slight bit better than expected, possibly due to all the shops don't wanting to take it in. Parts and labor all add up to about $6500 since I bought it in March. In addition I have paid about $230 for registration, $700 for road tax and insurance, and about $7-800 in fuel. I paid $6900 for the car itself. Not too bad all in all to own my dream car that I've been wanting and saving for since I was 20. I could have done without replacing the rear subframe on the BMW though, that was a pretty hard hit to the bank account.
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Dec 7, 2022 10:02
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Never add up the money. That's extra data your brain now has to justify the "money pit" thinking that'll eventually creep in. Glad it's running better, now get some enjoyment out of it. 
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Dec 7, 2022 11:21
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I am not at all surprised the owners of a dealership missed a mis-timed engine. They don’t even do valve adjustments here even though they bill the customer for it on the service intervals.
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Dec 8, 2022 20:24
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BigPaddy posted:Do you have service history showing the belt was done by a shop? If I can degree a cam on a SBC then so called professionals should be able to do a belt on a modern engine. I know I'm late on this reply, but... FWIW, my old roommate paid Pep Boys to do the water pump and timing belt on his Integra (DA body style). Would have used anybody else, but the water pump had poo poo out, and it was the only shop he could get it to without it overheating. It ran like a raped ape after (fucker would bury the speedometer if you gave it enough road, whereas before it ran out of steam around ~115 MPH), but we could never get it to pass emissions again (it failed hilariously bad on every number, even at idle). He sold it to a mutual friend when the transmission blew up... I asked said friend if he ever figured out why it ran so dirty when he helped me do a clutch on my car. OBD0, so no real diagnostics, except the check engine light was NOT on (but did work). One of the cams was 1 tooth off.  It ran great, idled smooth, started easily... nothing that would make you think a cam was off. He only tore into it because he couldn't get it to pass emissions, even after returning to completely stock (it only had a cold air intake/header/exhaust on it; intake and header were AEM and DC Sports IIRC, so not cheap garbage).
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Dec 10, 2022 07:20
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Taken today while walking the dog. Happy to see you too, buddy!
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Dec 13, 2022 09:03
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One last drive before I go away on Christmas vacation. The Sailuns are absolutely useless on wet asphalt, but it's not like I'm gonna do a lot of driving with the Honda this winter anyway. Stopped by the local Ikea parking for some pictures.  
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Dec 19, 2022 22:01
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OK, I really need some Honda peoples help on this! I want to prepare replacing my suspension, and in order to do that, I need strut mounts, since my old ones are old and bad. The part numbers are 51675-S1A-E01 for fronts and 52675-S1A-E01 for rears. I've tried Honda dealers, Rockauto, eBay, Daparto, Autodoc, Amayama and all the usual suspects with no luck. I need help to find one of two things: -Either the original part numbers or confirmed compatible parts from another generation of Accord or another model of Honda. The fun part here is that as mentioned earlier in the thread, the 98-02 Accords were different cars in Japan, Europe and America, which complicates searching a lot! -OR a coilover/suspension kit that includes top mounts and comes with TÜV/type approval papers so that my car will pass inspection.
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Feb 16, 2023 08:47
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evobatman posted:OK, I really need some Honda peoples help on this! If the part is compatible with a regular 1.6 etc. you could get the whole strut assembly from a euro junkyard and salvage just the strut mounts. Searching with the oem part number seems to return only unobtainium. Searching ebay for Accord strut assemblies seems to have more luck, but finding the correct one might be a bit of a task. I suspect the aftermarket chinese partsmakers prefer to bundle the whole assembly up and don't bother selling single pieces.
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Feb 16, 2023 12:01
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Enter your vin at epc-data.com may get you a little further
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Feb 16, 2023 15:24
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