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Sort of on the timing. There's generally a connector you need to short out (with a paperclip or short piece of wire) to set the base timing, if it does have a distributor (it should, since it's an H). Any H or F series will physically bolt right in, including to the transaxle. I don't think the F series was common outside of North America though - it was only used in the US for 90-02 Accords AFAIK (they're reliable, but don't make a ton of power stock). H series swaps were extremely common in the US on Accords back in the day, thanks to physically bolting in easily, and only really needing the ECU and some wiring. Honda distributors haven't ever really offered much adjustability in timing, at least since ~1990ish - but you do need to find the diagnostic plug and jump it before trying to set timing.
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Apr 4, 2022 01:25
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I think on Hondas those are predominantly post-primary O2? 80s and 90s Hondas with a 4 cylinder, yup. No idea on newer stuff.
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Jun 14, 2022 07:15
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BigPaddy posted:Do you have service history showing the belt was done by a shop? If I can degree a cam on a SBC then so called professionals should be able to do a belt on a modern engine. I know I'm late on this reply, but... FWIW, my old roommate paid Pep Boys to do the water pump and timing belt on his Integra (DA body style). Would have used anybody else, but the water pump had poo poo out, and it was the only shop he could get it to without it overheating. It ran like a raped ape after (fucker would bury the speedometer if you gave it enough road, whereas before it ran out of steam around ~115 MPH), but we could never get it to pass emissions again (it failed hilariously bad on every number, even at idle). He sold it to a mutual friend when the transmission blew up... I asked said friend if he ever figured out why it ran so dirty when he helped me do a clutch on my car. OBD0, so no real diagnostics, except the check engine light was NOT on (but did work). One of the cams was 1 tooth off.  It ran great, idled smooth, started easily... nothing that would make you think a cam was off. He only tore into it because he couldn't get it to pass emissions, even after returning to completely stock (it only had a cold air intake/header/exhaust on it; intake and header were AEM and DC Sports IIRC, so not cheap garbage).
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Dec 10, 2022 07:20
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dissss posted:I wouldn't be surprised of none of them fit though - the European Accord of that era was closer to the CB Accord which was a couple of generations older. Might be worth looking up fitment on the CB mounts then? CB Accord parts are still fairly easy to find (not OEM, but they have a good aftermarket).
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Feb 19, 2023 00:18
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trouser chili posted:I tried this with a CB9 Accord and it did last a weekend Gambler 500, but not much longer. To be fair, Gambler 500 is just LITTLE bit harder on a car than daily driving. I've done the urethrae trick before, and aside from basically feeling like I'd swapped stiffer motor mounts in (feeling the idle a little more, really), they held up well really well. evobatman posted:It probably wasn't a great idea to ceramic coat over stone chips, but my primary goal was preservation for the future, not concours-level detailing. You did fine. You have something over the chips and metal for protection. Keep it coated or waxed and it should stay pretty close to how it is now.
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Jun 17, 2023 01:35
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