Weird BIAS posted:

A lot of peavey pickguards don't line up 1:1 with their equivalent fender ones, or at least the generation exp I have looks like a tele but is a different shape, especially the horn. Looking at it there were also a few variations of it depending on the year. This site shows a couple of the variations for the predator. I've had to get pickguards made custom for mine over the years.

https://www.pickguardplanet.com/peavey-predator-guitar-pickguards/

TheMightyBoops posted:

I mostly brought it up joking, but people do counterfeit strings and sell them on Amazon. I always redeem those silly d’adario codes because if the code works the string are probably legit.

MrMojok posted:

I may get laughed out of here for this.

But about half a lifetime ago, I bought a Peavy Predator, one of the first ones, and I played the hell out of it for years and loved it.

Later, around ‘94, I bought a Strat, and so I gave the Predacaster to my father, who played it himself for years.

I always loved the thing, and this will sound crazy, but in some ways that I’m not even sure I can properly articulate, the Predacaster just felt better to me than the Strat I replaced it with. The neck felt a little smaller, for one, and I don’t have the longest fingers.

Don’t get me wrong, the American Strat was a much nicer guitar. The pickups were certainly better, among other things.

My Dad loved it too, and I have an uncle who is way bigger into guitars than either of us ever were… he’s one of these people who has about a dozen guitars, and some of those are really nice ones. My Dad loaned the Peavy to him for about three weeks a long time back, and he had nothing but good things to say about it also.

Flash forward to present. Dad doesn’t play anymore. I myself quit playing around ‘96. For the past two years I’ve been thinking about it a lot, and watching YouTube how-to videos and kind of lusting for a guitar and an amp again. Rarely I would grab my wife’s Takamine acoustic and play along but mostly I’ve been doing it sort of in my head.

So the other night I was telling Dad about how much I wanted to play again, and he got real excited, told me instead of spending the money on a new guitar and amp, he’d just ship the Peavy and one of his amps to me.

So this is super-cool. If you’ve read this far, here is my question. Dad’s a lefty and had the nut turned when I gave it to him like thirty years ago, and so now I need to have the nut turned back around, restrung, have the intonation checked out, etc. It hasn’t been given a once-over by a luthier in thirty years.

Can anyone say about how much this will run me?

In addition, how much would it run me to have the bridge pickup replaced with a humbucker, one that goes maybe from the $100-$150 range? The space underneath the pickguard I remember has a cavity big enough to put one in, it won’t need to be cut into to make room.

The reason I say it sounds crazy is I know this isn’t an expensive guitar, maybe not worth doing all this to, but it’s kind of a family heirloom, and all three of us loved playing it.

And ultimately it’s got to be cheaper than buying a MiM strat with HSS pickup configuration, which was my initial plan (and which I cannot afford)

Good Soldier Svejk posted:

It's gorgeous
I say if your heart is still saying "HSS" throw that humbucker in there, just keep the original pickup

Gramps posted:

My friend Corey owns this shop. He rules, his store rules. Give him your quiche

https://martelmusicstore.com/

Kazinsal posted:

Well then. Turned on my Mark V, it sounded way too loud and was clipping my cabclone, and then it started smelling funny. Like, ozone and electrical shorts funny.

That was an expensive thirty seconds of playing guitar.

Gramps posted:

As long as the bridge is in good shape, it's generally not necessarily friction that causes tuning issues, so I only typically recommend replacing saddles if there's a string breakage issue. Most of your tuning issues are coming from the nut anyway. If your trem goes out of tune, listen for creaking- it's probably your strings binding in the nut.

Anyway back to bridges- most guitars that have bridges that move are dependent on having the system set up correctly so it reliably returns to zero. It needs to be adjusted perfectly, and there can not be anything that causes any creaking or clunking in the movement. It needs to be smooth so it reliably returns to zero. This usually just means making sure everything down there is set up correctly and your pivot points are working as intended. In the case of knife edge type bridges like floyds, it means your bridge posts need to be in good shape and your knife edges need to be relatively sharp and shaped as intended. With screw-pivot bridges like a strat you just have to make sure the pivot screws are set correctly so nothing is binding.

quote:

Does your boss drive a Cadillac with pink velvet seats, wear a fur coat, and carry a bejeweled eight ball cane?

Disco Pope posted:

I think there can be some differences in string friction, but friend, it is taking all my strength not to make the obvious joke here.

Drunk Driver Dad posted:

mod the peavey. i remember when I was a teenager a cheap pawnshop peavey was my first guitar, sort of. I badly sawed up the pickguard with a knife to make an EMG 81 fit in the bridge. I wish I had that guitar back.

fullroundaction posted:

I've been struggling with a good amount of hand and wrist pain after long playing/recording sessions to the point where I lose my grip and can't even hold my pick or really close my hand for a few hours afterwards.

I got so frustrated last week I was almost in tears because I was thinking I really hosed something up and was not going to be able to play anymore if it continued but ... thankfully one of my guitar playing buddies is an ortho surgeon and his wife is an OT hand specialist and they gave me some stretching exercises and advice on how to recover more quickly and it seems to be working.

Take care of yourselves goons! Getting old loving sucks.

Major Operation posted:

could be measurements from the finished setup, to be referred to if the guitar shows up again:

1st fret clearance - neck relief - action at body joint - ??? (don't know what plus would be)

If this is for an electric guitar, those values might make sense. I would expect to see two sets of those numbers, one for each E string

duodenum posted:

Southern Cassowary posted:

it's probably fine to pretty good but for 800 bucks i'm hunting for used american strats on reverb