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I love vintage cameras, and loved seeing the prior posts on the Praktica, and retina cameras. Crazy how good images produced from these old cameras still are! I have a few pictures I took on an Industar 61 lens on a Zorki 4k. Sorry for horizon not being level- the viewfinder sucks.   Does anyone have experience shooting expired film, specifically Fujifilm Pro400H? I really wanted to try this film, with Fujifilm putting a hiatus on production I bought some with expiration date 2021 off Ebay. The seller was nice and threw in some Portra 800H expired in 10/2023 which I think shouldn't be too bad, as well as a black and white Cinestill film expired 10/2023 as well.
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Apr 2, 2024 02:49
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I don't think you'll see any noticeable difference with film that expired so recently unless. Id just shoot it like normal. The rule of thumb seems to be to overexpose expired film 1 stop for every decade it's expired..
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Apr 2, 2024 03:11
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Film that’s expired for a couple of years is fine to shoot at box speed.
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Apr 2, 2024 07:13
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Beve Stuscemi posted:Weeeeeell.......... Double weeeeell…… The film drive is broken. When you load film the camera sees it but doesn’t load it. When you fire frames off, the film transport mechanism doesn’t move. I took the camera apart a bit, but that stuff is buried deep in there and the chances of me getting it working AND getting it back together without breaking more stuff are slim to none. It was too good to be true I guess Thanks for reading my 1N livejournal
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Apr 2, 2024 12:42
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Daaaang, I hate when that happens. I guess thats the nature of ebay. Does anyone service that model and if so, would you at least break even on the resale value if you had it repaired? I bought a cheap bolex h16 film camera a while back and thought I was getting a deal because the pictures kinda sucked, as well as the description. Turns out it was just old, tired and extremely musty smelling. Deals are few and far between these days.
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Apr 2, 2024 14:05
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It is the nature of ebay, for sure. I also think there are a bunch of sellers on there who know exactly what is wrong with these cameras, and say "UNTESTED AS-IS" hoping people will do exactly what I did and roll the dice. Oh well, I knew what I was getting into with it, as far as risk was concerned. I might be able to break even if I sell the body and the battery grip separate. Now that I know exactly whats wrong with it, I can list it that way and hopefully someone who needs parts or knows how to fix the film advance will snap it up
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Apr 2, 2024 14:41
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Been shooting some Fuji Superia 400 lately, and it's a great film. Very good under fluorescent light, almost no green tint. It's a pity Fujifilm have stopped producing Superia, but I think I'll manage with UltraMax 400.    
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Apr 3, 2024 20:07
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Bought a camera at an antique store today because I wanted the lens, but now I have a film camera body sitting around as a bonus. Hopefully this doesn't awaken anything in me. I looked at how much film costs and boy howdy it is not going to awaken anything in me 
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Apr 4, 2024 03:57
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If you approach film photos the way you would with a digital camera you're gonna have a bad/expensive time. The fun comes from being very deliberate in what you shoot, enjoying the anticipation of getting your film developed and then revealing what you created. I might use 1 or 2 rolls a month which is like $25-$50 if I'm not trying to save money at all. IMO not terribly expensive relative to other hobbies.
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Apr 4, 2024 04:20
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Me with a DSLR: I'll just spam twenty shots of this and trudge through the absolute chore of going through them later in Lightroom Me with a film camera: is this even worth spending $2 to take a picture of?
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Apr 4, 2024 05:05
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a dingus posted:If you approach film photos the way you would with a digital camera you're gonna have a bad/expensive time. The fun comes from being very deliberate in what you shoot, enjoying the anticipation of getting your film developed and then revealing what you created. I might use 1 or 2 rolls a month which is like $25-$50 if I'm not trying to save money at all. IMO not terribly expensive relative to other hobbies. Yeah we'll see what I do with it. I did buy a roll of Lomochrome Metropolis because my favorite custom Fuji film sim is intended to replicate it, so I'm curious to compare them. But mostly it was a nice Super-Takumar 55 for cheap. Neat to look at too. My film days were pinhole cameras, disposables, and lovely fixed lenses in 35 and 110, I never played with the slightly more elaborate film cameras. Grand Fromage fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Apr 4, 2024 |
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Apr 4, 2024 05:35
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I started shooting film in earnest about 8 years ago with the intention of going totally DIY in terms of processing. It has made for an extremely affordable hobby in terms of ongoing cost but has also alienated me from other folks' sentiments of exorbitant film and lab prices. I mixed up a liter of scratch E6 first developer today with the intention of shooting some 16mm Ektachrome stills as my town starts crawling with eclipse tourists in the coming days. Keeping with the spirit of the thread title, I'm at about 15c per developed and scanned 35mm frame (b&w or Vision3 color, bulk rolled). A Paterson tank, changing bag, and a quick order from https://artcraftchemicals.com/ will save loads of money over the long term. Pulling the developed film out the tank never gets old.
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Apr 4, 2024 06:09
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Is there a good guide on starting B&W development for someone who’s never done it? I have a few rolls of ilford sitting around and it might be fun to develop them myself
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Apr 4, 2024 06:15
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Beve Stuscemi posted:Is there a good guide on starting B&W development for someone who’s never done it? Pick a developer you like the looks of and suits your development style first, i.e. looks, shelf life, cost, etc. Then, honestly, youtube and google has tons of walkthrough videos for all of them. There's a small startup cost with the paterson tank, changing bag, developer, (usually can ignore stop - use water), fix, then a few speciality hooks to dry and straighten with, which are absolutely worth it. Once you have all that you're a whole lab. My take is that development is a pretty flexible process, dont stress the exact seconds, temp and agitation process too too much, it'll develop. Do stress the drying and dust-mitigation and handling of the film once its developed. [e] For example I'm lazy and inconsistent so I like Rodinal. When that runs out I'm definitely experimenting with Diafine to see how lazy you can be. tuna fucked around with this message at 07:28 on Apr 4, 2024 |
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Apr 4, 2024 07:12
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You can also dilute some vinegar to water for stop. I always have it on hand for laundry and develop film next to my washing machine. Tbh for Rodinal I've found plain water works too.
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Apr 4, 2024 07:43
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Yep, there are tons of guides everywhere online. A good resource for a lot of film-related things is the Analog Resurgence channel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MEN8G6z76_A It is quite straight forward once you've got a basic understanding but is also fine-tunable to the Nth degree with further practice. With some experience you're able to mix and match various films, exposures, developers, and development regimens to produce more precisely the image you've (hopefully) pre-visualized before taking the shot. Having full control of the back end processing will ultimately influence how you shoot the film in the first place. Not to mention all the heinous fun experimental processing can provide. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fVhozjE-NIA
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Apr 4, 2024 08:15
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Beve Stuscemi posted:Is there a good guide on starting B&W development for someone who’s never done it? It’s very easy and what’s been linked has been great but my developers of choice are Rodinal and HC110 as they both have shelf lives of decades. That way you don’t need to worry about shooting to the capacity of the developer before it expires. Black and white can be extremely affordable, my time is worthless, bulk rolled UN54 is like $4 a roll and dev costs about 4c in chemicals per roll. The other side of this is that all the equipment you need to process the film and scan costs like a grand.
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Apr 4, 2024 08:33
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Megabound posted:It’s very easy and what’s been linked has been great but my developers of choice are Rodinal and HC110 as they both have shelf lives of decades. That way you don’t need to worry about shooting to the capacity of the developer before it expires. RIP HC-110 syrup. I haven't tried the new formulation so can't comment on it's longevity but Rodinal (aka para-aminophenol aka tylenol & hydroxide) is extraordinarily long-lived. Doubly so if you decant or use a capping gas. Other non-water based concentrates (Pyrocat in glycol, PC-TEA) have excellent keeping properties but are a tad more exotic. For purpose-built scanning gear, life starts at about 300 bux for a new V600 or a Valoi film holder sans digital camera. With some determination you can get by with an ILC on tripod, extension tubes, 2 panes of glass and a sunny window. People seem to hate on flatbeds these days but the quality they provide perfectly fine for half-frame 35mm and larger for all but the most anal retentive  Digital ICE is a godsend and is worth the price of entry alone if you regularly scan color film or XP2 Super.
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Apr 4, 2024 09:55
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Yeah I agree on all that. If all you do is 35mm I’ve seen second had Plusteks go for $100 and you can buy as old as the 7200i and have it be compatible with modern hardware and software. I use a V850 but the older V700 still uses the same sensor and I’ll happily scan down to half frame, and have done 16mm stills too.
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Apr 4, 2024 10:14
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Yeah, same. The gear doesn't have to be prohibitively expensive, but anyone just getting into film will likely be overwhelmed by marketing from modern suppliers. Non-110 16mm is the One True cheapskate stills format and probably my favorite for casual shooting. All the cameras are 60+ years old at this point but drat if they aren't bulletproof mechanically. The Minolta cassette is the first thing I'd revive if I were a robber baron with endless capital. And then immediately repeat history by going bankrupt. Edit: What, me 16mm collector scum? Oh yeah. 
Father O'Blivion fucked around with this message at 11:56 on Apr 4, 2024 |
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Apr 4, 2024 11:34
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I've got a couple of those that I shoot sometimes. Haven't done in quite a while tho, I got sick of fighting light leaks in 3D printed cartridges so they're on my whimsy buy list if I find one with the cart.     
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Apr 4, 2024 12:29
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Beve Stuscemi posted:Is there a good guide on starting B&W development for someone who’s never done it? If you want to hit the ground running, these two are all you need: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1519010-REG/paterson_ptp547u_film_processing_starter_kit.html https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/253370-REG/Paterson_PTP125.html The one-shot dev kit is a bit over priced, but it's super convenient for getting started. I'd just recommend sacrificing a roll of film to practice loading the reels with a few times. Once or twice outside the bag. And once or twice inside. Oh and I also needed distilled water for the rinse. Otherwise I get spots. Was just in Paris for a bit. Took some photos. Nikon F4, 50mm f/1.4, Ilford HP5+, Plustek 8200i.        Few more here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/milliron/albums/72177720315772628/
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Apr 4, 2024 14:42
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So, I am a Nikon guy, film and digital. I have my grandfather's FM, and so far that has influenced what I buy for lenses. However, I have access to a full frame digital and there are some lenses I'd like to get for it, but they won't be usable on the FM due to the lack of aperture ring. What Nikon 35mm bodies are able to take advantage of these lenses (would be AF-S I believe)? I have a huge gap in knowledge between the FM and the D70S (which was my first Nikon DSLR) in terms of compatibility and technology. E: Sorry, I could just look that up. I'm also looking for advice on which ones would be a good buy. I do action photography on the digital side, and also usually shoot a roll or two of film, but the lack of AF kills me on getting much good on film.
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Apr 4, 2024 15:46
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carticket posted:So, I am a Nikon guy, film and digital. I have my grandfather's FM, and so far that has influenced what I buy for lenses. However, I have access to a full frame digital and there are some lenses I'd like to get for it, but they won't be usable on the FM due to the lack of aperture ring. What Nikon 35mm bodies are able to take advantage of these lenses (would be AF-S I believe)? I have a huge gap in knowledge between the FM and the D70S (which was my first Nikon DSLR) in terms of compatibility and technology. I have an N80 that works with all the modern AF-S. It’s alright but you can tell it was the cheap one. I know the F6 does if you want to drop the money for it, maybe F4 or F5 as well?
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Apr 4, 2024 15:55
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Nikon F4 will work with G lenses but you can’t do manual or aperture priority. It has no way on the body to control the aperture.
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Apr 4, 2024 16:42
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F5 works fully with AF-S G lenses but not E
big black turnout fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Apr 4, 2024 |
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Apr 4, 2024 16:51
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Beve Stuscemi posted:Is there a good guide on starting B&W development for someone who’s never done it? I am deeply lazy and also frequently use Sunny-16 "metering" so I use rodinal stand development exclusively. Results are... good enough that I don't bother with anything else. The only downside is that it takes over an hour, so trying to crank through a stack of exposed film takes a while.
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Apr 4, 2024 19:18
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Pham Nuwen posted:I am deeply lazy and also frequently use Sunny-16 "metering" so I use rodinal stand development exclusively. Results are... good enough that I don't bother with anything else. You should check out Diafine, similar vibes (doesn't care about temperature, doesn't care about film type, doesn't care about time even really as long as you do 3 minutes in bath A and 3 minutes in bath B), doesn't exhaust, never goes bad due to age. Eventually the film soaks up enough you need to top off you bottles but otherwise, just toss everything in the juice and it comes out. The only thing is you should agitate more than they suggest on the instructions. The only issue Ive ever had was some streaky development when I was like "oh maybe I should use their agitation scheme".
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Apr 4, 2024 19:41
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Im going to the Midwest gaming classic this weekend, and I figured what better way to be a super nerd at a super nerd convention, than to shoot film there? I plan to bring my Olympus IS-1, because it’s an easy P&S and I don’t much care if it gets knocked around on the convention floor. I can bring 800 or 400 iso film, given that it’s a f/3.5 wide open and I’ll be indoors in a convention I’m thinking 400? I want to be able to shoot handheld but I also don’t want to waste a roll of portra 800 on a video game convention.
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Apr 5, 2024 23:55
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I wouldn't go with anything less than 800 and preferably use 3200. Indoors is always a lot darker than you imagine.
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Apr 6, 2024 00:03
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Ugh, I figured that might be the case. The fastest I have right now is the portra 800, maybe I’ll bring the 5d classic instead.
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Apr 6, 2024 00:25
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Most places would have Ilford Delta 3200 if there's a local lab or camera shop near you.
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Apr 6, 2024 05:24
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Portra 800 does take pushing pretty well if you were set on shooting color.
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Apr 6, 2024 06:25
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If you’re shooting B&W, I recommend shooting Kentmere 400 pushed 3 stops to 3200. It looks great that way.
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Apr 6, 2024 06:47
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This is delta 3200 in an arcade, I prefer it to Kodak p3200
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Apr 6, 2024 07:17
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I got a thing    https://i.imgur.com/xjTMlTX.mp4  
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Apr 6, 2024 11:06
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That flip up screen is dope! I didn't know they made anything like that. I love putting my slides on the projector but setting it up and finding a suitable wall is a pain in the rear end. Where'd you find this projector? eBay?
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Apr 6, 2024 13:20
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It was at a private auction run by a camera collectors club
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Apr 6, 2024 13:24
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VoodooXT posted:If you’re shooting B&W, I recommend shooting Kentmere 400 pushed 3 stops to 3200. It looks great that way. I do have a roll of ilford hp5 plus 400, but the problem is, to my understanding, that in order to push film you need to be able to set the iso in the camera manually to something other than what the dx code says? The problem with the IS-1 is that it has full manual controls for everything but ISO. It won’t let you set that. My only option there would be exposure compensation which I believe I can go two stops in either direction. You can’t just shoot 400 at 400 and develop it at some other speed and get the same results as telling your camera to shoot 400 at 1600 right? Apologies if I’m not getting it, I’ve never pushed film before
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Apr 6, 2024 15:28
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| # ? Apr 30, 2024 21:56 |
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To expose it at 1600, while the camera thinks it's 400, you can just set the exposure compensation to -2. It will then expose as if it were 1600 iso film. Alternatively, find the DX code for 1600 iso film, and get creative with a strip of self adhesive aluminium tape and some squares of masking tape.
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Apr 6, 2024 17:20
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