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a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
I'll throw my hat in the ring and say color development isn't hard, but it might take a try or two to get comfortable with it. So if anyone reading this is on the fence about it, give it a try. Download a development timer app, fill a big pot of water, put your chemical bottles in and bring them to temp and off you go. I've stored chemicals in the refrigerator for a few months and used them for 8-12 rolls.

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a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
What's your budget for getting a decent working camera? Personally I'd shoot a roll on the srt 201 to see if it even works well or not. If it's got issues then you can weigh your options from there. I spent $300 between the two of my Pentax bodies getting them cleaned and serviced, and that didn't include anything to do with the lenses.

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
I developed a roll of ektachrome from October-ish and figured I'd share a couple of the shots I liked best. Sometimes I have an idea and take a picture but it doesn't really translate to how I want it. Like the composition is off or theres no main focus on anything. For example, the picture of the road and the picture of the cows. They were both nice scenes but not as cool as I thought they'd turn out. On the other hand I like the shot of my bike and it came out marginally better than I expected. It was the end of the work day and I raced sunset to grab a picture before it got totally dark. I missed the right lighting a little but it was mostly supposed to be a fun ride to kill the last couple frames I had on the roll.




a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe

lollybo posted:

I really like the look of this film! Really cool color. I think your motorcycle shot would benefit from a closer crop (I took the liberty to try it)- it makes the fall foliage and motorcycle larger in proportion, and I would argue they are the more interesting subjects, the road being less interesting. You may have been using a fixed focal length camera, but I still think it's okay to crop film photos. You can lift your shadows if you want, but I like the cool darker look with the bike in shadows, that's a stylistic choice.


Thanks, slide film is the bomb! Its definitely sensitive to contrast but when you get something decent it looks great. And I don't normally crop my shirts but I'll have to go back and take a second look at all of the eh pictures I have. I can probably pull something decent out of them like you did for me. All of these were shot with a 50mm prime lens on my Pentax me super

Those Leica shots are great. Are most of those bodies pre-war designs? Id love to add some WWII era camera bodies to my collection but the price is woof

a dingus fucked around with this message at 14:31 on Dec 15, 2023

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
E100 is GOAT & so is your dog. Also if you have a big spaghetti pot and appropriately sized chemical bottles you can stick the bottles into the pot with the stove on super low and get a nice consistent temperature. That's how I used to develop and I never had any big problems.

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
So I decided that slide film wasn't expensive enough for me and I wanted to try and make some videos. Does anyone mess around with 16mm? Is there a film or video thread? This is a Bell & Howell 70DR. Before Bell & Howell became some as-seen-on-TV brand that sells old people garbage they don't need they actually made some nice cameras. Apparently this one is the VW beetle of movie cameras, being designed in the 1920s and produced relatively unchanged until the 1970s.

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
Nice!! If the 16mm doesn't go terribly Ill probably mess with 8mm a bit too. This Revere 8 Model 44 was given to me by my grandfather and probably spent some time in Guam when he was in the Air Force during Korea. I didn't think you could get straight 8mm until I started getting into 16mm so good to know there's a place that not only sells but develops it.



Im not looking forward to seeing what the development and scanning costs are for the 300ft of film Ill have will be but :shrug:

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
I just shot my first role tonight and it was an experience! Make sure your viewfinder lenses are indexed to your filming lenses. I'm pretty sure I shot half my role with the wrong lens so we'll see how it comes out. Also I can definitely appreciate having a reflex viewfinder because trying to keep things in focus while you're shooting is nearly impossible unless you stop and restart.

Edit: looks like the 70DL doesn't have a gear that automatically changes/indexes the viewfinder lens, so I'd recommend marking them somehow so you can quickly see if youre using the right viewfinder lens

a dingus fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Dec 26, 2023

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
I have no idea what that person is doing in post (which could be a lot) but some of the posts remind me of ektar. Perhaps they pushed it to get that extra graininess

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
I think the fact that we all guessed different film stocks says a lot about what you can do in post

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
What type of material is the area that the film moves across? If it's a metal and you're feeling brave you might be able to very gently polish it with something like a magic eraser, a piece of denim or even Scotch Brite. Just be cautious with it because I'm not familiar with that camera at all.

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
I got the footage from the test rolls I shot with my 16mm filmo and I'm really pleased with the results! Definitely going to shoot a lot more 16mm (as long as the wallet can take it). I need to color grade it still, which Ive never done before but just the flat scan looked good. I'm really impressed by the old camera. It shot nice and steady footage, especially for a 100 year old design. I may post some clipa when I grade it but it's mostly of my daughter's first Christmas so not sure what I want to share. Definitely recommend motion picture if anyone is on the fence.

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
I have a v550 (same hardware as the v600 just different software) and it's also... fine. I don't have a DSLR and have never done a DSLR scan but I'd still 1000x recommend springing for that setup over a new flatbed scanner. I'm sure even older/used DSLRs provide better results than the flatbed scanners whose hardware dates back to 2009. They're slow and finicky and there is always dust to deal with.

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
I like the half exposures. Also you're braver than I am, I'd never try to take a picture without being able to focus unless I was stopped all the way down.

Now that I think back on it all but one of my auction cameras have had issues that you couldn't see and have needed to be serviced. And the one exception is my old AF movie camera that doesn't even really have a way to check focus.

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
I finally have some footage to share from my 16mm motion picture camera and I have to say making movies is really dang cool. Here's a sloppily edited clip I got of two friends skiing down a hill at an air BNB, synced with audio from a phone. Shot on my bell & Howell filmo 70dr


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fZYjeWQqPn4

I only have some random clips and nothing cohesive or 'good' so far since I've just been testing out equipment. I'd like to make a little video about spring and some other things at some point though.

I dove in head first and since December I've blown the fun money portion of my work bonus on collecting cameras and lenses. So far I have 3 cameras and 2 sets of 3 prime lenses. I can talk about my experiences with the different cameras if anyone cares.

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe

field balm posted:

This looks awesome! It says something about how cinema has used the old film aesthetic that I immediately thought this felt like the beginning of a 2000s found footage horror movie.

Thanks! I had the film scanned in log format so I had to color correct it. That's a fun process too but you can get a lot of different looks out of the film when you color correct yourself. I'm still no pro at it but Im getting a lot better.

Recoome posted:

This looks great - I have a Filmo 70DL with a 17mm B&H, 25mm Angenieux f0.95, and some Kodak 68mm f2.7. I’ll get an actual 75mm Angenieux but overall it’s a very solid camera with great stability of the image relative to the K-3 which bounces a bit more.

I had a Angenieux 15mm, Taylor & Hobson Super Comat 25mm and a B&H 75mm on the camera. I think this clip is mostly the 25mm but the 75mm for the shot of my friend trudging up the hill. I've since got a 75mm angenieux, 15mm switar, 25mm switar and 75mm switar. The switars have more cleaning marks but I really don't think Id be able to tell the difference between any of them as far as sharpness goes.

I actually bought a K3 on ebay shortly after my filmo because I thought I wanted a reflex camera. The K3 arrived with a busted zoom lens so I sent it back, but my first impressions of the thing were pretty good. The viewfinder is nice and the stock lens is supposed to be really good for a zoom. But I had heard about the jumpiness in the film. You can fix it in post but my filmo was designed 100 years ago and its as rock steady as any consumer 16mm camera. I've never felt the need to steady my stuff in post yet.

I have a Beaulieu R16 spring wind camera that just came back from servicing and a Bolex non-reflex H16 to try out so we'll see how nice those are. I'd recommend the filmo 100% for anyone who just wants to get into the hobby.

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe

Megabound posted:

It's looks too good for 16mm, that's so nice. I've always been interested but never enough to put down the money.

16mm can look really nice. A lot nicer than what I've got. Quite a few movies have been filmed on 16mm, like Moonrise Kingdom is a popular one.

Recoome posted:

I veeeerryyyy nearly bought a Bolex but it’s hard to justify rn given how nice the Filmo is.

For sure. I'd love to get a bolex reflex. If I don't like the beaulieue I might sell it and one of my motorcycles that I don't ride to fund a bolex. The prices are nuts though, like $1500-$2000+ after you get it serviced. I bought the beaulieue because it was reflex viewing but it feels delicate compared to my nonreflex bolex and there are only 2 places in the world who will service it so if I have an issue... tough luck.

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
Are all of those white plates that the lenses are mounted on all shutters of some sort?

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
Fuji 200 punches above it's weight considering it's the cheap film they sell (or at least sold) at Walmart.

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
If it makes you feel any better, I've ruined countless rolls of film for dumb reasons:

I took an untested camera on a week long road trip through Sequoia and Burning Man, only to find out the camera was totally out of focus and that Id wasted multiple rolls of film.

I didn't realize the light meter was out of calibration on my Pentax and shot probably 15-20 rolls of film. I thought getting 3-4 properly exposed photos each roll was just how film was. More than a few of those rolls were expensive slide film, too.

Now that I think about it, I've bought at least 5 cameras from eBay and only one or 2 of them haven't had some sort of issue. Old cameras really need service before they can be used reliably IMO.

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
IMO $500 to CLA 2 cameras is reasonable. If you like the camera, there are decent lens available and you could see yourself using the kit for a few years then go for it. Yeah you can buy more untrusted bodies for a lot cheaper but the cost isn't comparable because those cameras could be junk. $250 per camera isn't that bad when you think about the price of film in comparison.

These things are like old cars. You get something tired and in need of repair for cheap but restoring them costs a lot more than the purchase price. That said, if you can find someone selling something recently serviced then you might be able to get a deal, but I'd want proof it was sent to someone knowledgeable before paying a premium.

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
Yes you are overthinking it just develop the film and move on with your life

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
Youd be surprised how well 250d handles light. The ski video I posted was on 250d in bright sunlight and was probably 3 stops overexposed. I had to stop way down and thought it might still come back blown out but it turned out nicely. I took this guy's advice and have been overexposing my shots just a little by default and haven't been burned yet


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6Nf-4zudEY

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
I use my 50mm 99% of the time but I think I'd like to try a 35mm or 40mm. I have a 28mm and it's almost too wide for the shooting I do, yet the 50mm is a touch too narrow.

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
A good friend of mine who has never used a film camera before just ripped his first roll trying to rewind it. Then he opened that back and rewound the roll by hand in daylight. So at least you didn't do that.

Thankfully he's not discouraged and wants to keep trying film. I showed him how to use the camera but I guess I underestimated the bits of knowledge that I take for granted.

We're both in our early 30's and when he said he'd never used a film camera before I was like 'wtf did you do for the first half of your life'

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
It looks so plain! Like someone removed all the labels. There's be all sorts of trim on it if it came out today. Also if anyone else was curious too, I looked it up and it looks like that model was released in 1990

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
I just got my grandfather's Kodak Retina IIa from service from Paul Barden and it looks great! My grandfather used this thing when he was stationed in Guam during the Korean war. It's a neat little folder with bellows. It's small and hefty and apparently it was one of the better cameras Kodak ever made, comparable with Contax & Leicas. I'm undecided on what film stock I should run through it first. Porta 400, Ektar 100, Fomapan 100 or 400TX? Im leaning towards Fomapan since that has a old timey look and I've never tried it before.



I know my grandfather shot a lot of Kodachrome through this thing because he left a lot of cool slides. I have a few digitized but I don't remember where I saved them. I may have posted this one ages ago I can't remember.

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
Thanks I'll try and find some of his other pics. He had some nice ones for sure.

The CLA on the camera was $270 with shipping. Paul installed a new frame counter spring for $45 and replaced some other worn part for $10. The camera runs spectacularly so far. There is some slight oxidation on some metal bits and I asked him to pretty much not touch the leatherette since I liked the patina. I should take a better picture of it because the pic I posted kinda sucks.

It's a fun camera. It's probably the only point and shoot camera Ive used in the last 20 years and I was surprised how delicate the shutter feels when it snaps. There's nothing to feel at all, no comparison to the ka-thunk of an SLR.

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
I don't think you'll see any noticeable difference with film that expired so recently unless. Id just shoot it like normal. The rule of thumb seems to be to overexpose expired film 1 stop for every decade it's expired..

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
Daaaang, I hate when that happens. I guess thats the nature of ebay. Does anyone service that model and if so, would you at least break even on the resale value if you had it repaired?

I bought a cheap bolex h16 film camera a while back and thought I was getting a deal because the pictures kinda sucked, as well as the description. Turns out it was just old, tired and extremely musty smelling. Deals are few and far between these days.

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
If you approach film photos the way you would with a digital camera you're gonna have a bad/expensive time. The fun comes from being very deliberate in what you shoot, enjoying the anticipation of getting your film developed and then revealing what you created. I might use 1 or 2 rolls a month which is like $25-$50 if I'm not trying to save money at all. IMO not terribly expensive relative to other hobbies.

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
That flip up screen is dope! I didn't know they made anything like that. I love putting my slides on the projector but setting it up and finding a suitable wall is a pain in the rear end. Where'd you find this projector? eBay?

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe

carticket posted:

I learned two things today:

1) my Kodak Retina focus adjust does not actually adjust. It is stuck at near focus and has been for at least 13 years.
2) some films are supposed to be prewashed before developing. Oops.

I learned #1 after a 2 week road trip and vacation. All rolls, garbage. The old retina is like a abusive relationship. You get abused but you can't help but go back and try to fix them.

What type of film requires a prewash? I've only ever done c41 and rinsed beforehand, but Ive probably forgotten before.

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
Cool haul! You can get a nice slide viewer for like $25 on Amazon. Much easier than setting up the projector.

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe

Slavvy posted:

I took my seemingly perfectly functional practika to the marina for a test run, this is the first roll I've had developed from it. Everything seems to function correctly except it looks like the view finder is kinda offset sideways? Idk how to describe it, here are some potato shots of two crappy prints that make it really obvious:


Is one of your eyes further to the left or right than the other? One of mine is definitely higher than the other, or one leg is shorter because the horizon is never straight on my pictures.

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe

Slavvy posted:

It's got nothing to do with my eyes etc,

I'm almost positive you have one eye more to the right of the other and vice versa.

I'm just loving with you but you should crop your photos either digitally or on the enlarger.

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
The film speed dial on one of my ME Supers is janky, so that's worth checking out. If you wiggle the dial a little it changes the speed and you can watch the shutter speed dance up and down in auto mode.

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
The light meter in the camera is probably out of calibration, because a light leak wouldn't cause pictures to be underexposed. There's probably a leak around the film door since the orange color is normally created by light passing through the orange back of the film.

I thought b/w film was normally more forgiving but maybe it depends on the film stock. Have you tried pushing the contrast around in post?

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
That eclipse picture is pretty sweet though, Id definitely hang that on my wall! The truck pics are no slouch either. Please post more vision 3 stuff, I just ordered a roll and Im starting to consider what stocks I might want to take on vacation in June.

Anyhow, how do you all use light meters? Do you mostly use incident/reflective or spot meters? I've been spending a lot of time behind cameras without meters or with broken meters recently. I normally use a reflective meter app on my phone but was getting tired of whipping it out so I picked up a Gossen Lunapro SBC. It was a lot less expensive than a sekonic and its got a spot meter attachment available. Im looking forward to trying it out.

Getting the gossen led to me checking out a couple old meters I had lying around. I thought they were probably junk but I used the gossen and my phone as benchmarks and surprisingly, they work great!

Left to right:
- Weston Master II.
- A like-new Gossen Luna-Pro SBC
- GE PR-1

The Weston Master II and the GE meter feel solid with a nice heft. They're made of bakelite and aluminum, I think. The Gossen is plastic and not as tank-like, but not cheap junk either.



I got this Weston Master II in a lot with and old bolex motion picture camera. Its corroded, dirty and musty. Its meant to be a reflective meter but you can take incident readings with an attachment (which mine is missing). Also, for some reason Weston has their own scale for film speeds which is the dumbest thing I can think of. You'd need to look up your film speed on the weston scale to get the right value for the meter. The meter is too beaten up and smelly for me to want to use but the weird speed scale is enough to put me off of it.


It's got this neat door in the back that flips open for low & high light situations.


Flipping the door open also changes the scale on the front.


The GE PR-1 belonged to my grandfather. Its a reflective meter with an incident attachment on the top & I think it was made in the early 1950s. You hold a button down on the side until the needle stops moving, and then you twist the aluminum ring to align the pointer with the needle. Its kinda cool because its got two needles, one for low light and one for high and both are bracketed for +/-1 stop.

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a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe

illcendiary posted:

I bought an entry level Sekonic on eBay that I use for incident readings and it works well. Now that I’ve read the zone theory book, I’m having spot meter related GAS symptoms and have my eye on vintage Pentax stuff. We’ll see if I make that jump though

This is why I was curious how others do it. I'm a little hesitant to just hit things with my incident meter because I was being so surgical with my reflective/spot meter on my phone. I didn't know about the zone theory but was doing something similar but super basic.

The sekonic spot meters are $$ but the spot attachment for my gossen is like $30 on eBay.

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