|
I found out recently that across town there is a shop that sells film of all types, and has dark rooms and studios for rent. This is great because I haven't had a dark room since I sold my condo. Also, I am going to drop the 10 rolls of undeveloped film I found when moving on them and have them develop because I'm out of practice.
|
#
¿
Nov 11, 2023 00:43
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 17, 2024 16:34 |
|
|
Ok, I went to the place with the dark rooms that sells film to buy film and walked out with a professionally refurbished Yashica Mat 124G. All the cameras I inherited that are medium format take 620 film and I really just don't want to deal with that. I really need to find all my undeveloped film stash and send em over.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 12, 2023 02:08
|
|
|
Does anyone have a specific light meter app for Android that they find works well? The guy at the shop actually said that's what he uses for metering, but his was an iPhone app.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 12, 2023 05:49
|
|
|
Megabound posted:This is the one I use when I don't have any other light meter on me Thanks. I'll have to check it against my DSLR results and see if it's close. I was way more comfortable with everything film, including trusting the camera light meters, when I was doing it regularly. I guess I'll still probably pick up a good modern incident light meter.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 12, 2023 13:57
|
|
|
I checked the Yashica light meter against that phone app, and they both reported the same. I checked my Zeiss Bullseye against that app and the camera meter read a few stops low. I did some reading from a guy that repairs these cameras and apparently the meters are just awful in the context of modern film speeds and only really good with sub-100 ISO films. I think I used to use that meter, but I can't remember. I'll have to experiment with it once I'm developing my own film again.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 16, 2023 19:22
|
|
|
Megabound posted:Counterpoint This is awesome. What is it called.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 16, 2023 22:27
|
|
|
Dropped off three rolls to get developed... And I just realized I had a 4th roll that I discovered when I opened my FM. Oops (both opening it with film in, and forgetting to have them develop it). I guess I'll use that roll for practice.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 19, 2023 00:12
|
|
|
Has anyone used the AstrHori AH-M1 light meter? It seems to be in the same sort of class as the TTArtisan one.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 19, 2023 18:41
|
|
|
So, I've got a Zeiss Contarex. It's old and worn, and the focusing screen is not great (fresnel across most of it with the standard microprism + split in the center). The 50mm f/1.4 takes some gorgeous photos, but it is really firm focus and is like three quarter turn near to far. I've also got a 135mm f/2.8 for it, which is also nice but also a lot of work to focus. My other 35mm is a Nikon FM. I've got a modern 50mm f/1.8 that takes about 15° of turning for full focus throw. I use this camera for action. Are there any good zooms with short manual focus throw that I can get for this body? I think I have an old kit lens somewhere, but it looked pretty low quality. Something that covers 35-150ish would be awesome if anyone has ideas. I don't know where to look as a resource for this (i.e. reviews of old glass).
|
|
#
¿
Nov 25, 2023 14:58
|
|
|
When I was shooting last weekend, I opened my Nikon FM for the first time in 7 years and, of course, find a roll of HP5+ partly used. I shot three rolls that day and dropped them off to get developed and I was saving the HP5+ to do myself for practice. I was at the shop this weekend, and they showed me my negatives pre-scanning, and I get two rolls of the event I shot and one roll of ???? I accidentally gave them the mystery roll instead of my third. Anyway, did some finagling and swapped in the correct roll for the scanning step. Brought the mystery roll home and whipped up a scanner with my DSLR and SAD lamp. I kind of like the way they came out.  I intentionally sized the mask for the full width of the film and cropped wider. I wish I had a macro, buy I don't, so these are like 1MP cropped from the center. Turned out to be my sister's wedding (I was not the official photographer). Lost two frames completely, and then a few in varying stages of this:  Some of the frames have neat shadows of sprocket holes from the accidental exposure, but I'm not gonna share photos of my sister's wedding.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 27, 2023 03:44
|
|
|
I just ordered a full manual circular full frame fisheye off KEH and I'm excited. I think I will be somewhat disappointed in the distortion (from ideal projection), because at work I've got a C-mount lens (for a sensor size of 1/1.8") that's a 190° circular fisheye with an almost perfect equidistant (f-theta) projection. BFL on C-mount is too short to have the mirror down, so it won't work anyway. I'll probably throw it on my D90 and grab some calibration images just because I'm curious how it fares. It doesn't look too close to equidistant, but it could be nominally one of the funky ones like equisolid. Fake edit: it's a Samyang and Wikipedia has it listed as notable for its stereographic projection (2*f*tan theta/2).
|
|
#
¿
Dec 31, 2023 05:35
|
|
|
I booked darkroom time on Saturday. I have to get a rundown of how they intend the room to be used, i.e. what do they want me to do with what I pour out of the tanks, etc. Never used a leader extractor not developed 120, so this will be interesting.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 11, 2024 18:49
|
|
|
HC110 I think is what they tend to use. I've always used reusable at home so that's just the mindset I have. Thanks for the overview of how things would typically work!
|
|
#
¿
Jan 12, 2024 13:35
|
|
|
LimaBiker posted:Apparently certain dutch airports refuse the hand check and insist their X-ray machines are film safe. This used to be the case with the older x-ray machines, but anecdotally their newer ones do fog film. If you shoot pictures here, get the film developed locally, just to play it safe. This is really good to know because I was starting to plan a trip to the Netherlands in August.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 12, 2024 19:40
|
|
|
Went through old photo stuff before darkroom time tomorrow. Found a roll of HP5+ unopened expired 2016, a shot roll of FP4+, and a ???? Roll of Kodak Gold. I still have a stash of undeveloped rolls from the last decade *somewhere*. I also know I have prints of the expired Seattle FilmWorks roll I shot, but I know I don't have the negatives for that. I suspect I've got another box of photography stuff in the basement. E: also, since someone was posting about super 8 recently, I found a Yashica Super8. It needs a repair to keep the cartridge door closed. I must have set it aside when I got the rest of my grandfather's cameras since I wasn't interested, but ever since reading those posts, I've been thinking it would be fun to try. carticket fucked around with this message at 04:44 on Jan 13, 2024 |
|
#
¿
Jan 13, 2024 04:40
|
|
|
Didn't gently caress up my yolo development. I maybe shot a roll and pushed the exposure and didn't note it, or more likely based on the order of the shots, I hosed up my camera settings and accidentally stopped down. The biggest problem I had was being unable to find all the rolls of film I shot recently. Developed 4 rolls, forgot one at home, at least one MIA, plus I know I had several from years ago when I was moving that are also missing (but I care about them less).
|
|
#
¿
Jan 14, 2024 03:15
|
|
|
So, I tried to push Delta 3200 to 25600. I did a stand soak in stock Xtol for 25 minutes, which was just a swag at a number. I did get results. It probably could have sat for another 10-15 minutes. The only number I had seen was 60 minutes for HC110 dilution B. Pushing to 12800 with Xtol was listed at 12:30 with normal agitation. Anyway, that's the last time I try to do development and printing (previously developed shots) in the same time block. Would have been better if I rented the larger room with the larger sink, but it was still just too much for me to manage considering I'm just getting back into it. Have some janky rear end scans using my multifunction printer.    
|
|
#
¿
Jan 20, 2024 05:15
|
|
|
I tried pushing that film to 25600 after seeing some shots online of it at 12800. Didn't get as much density as I wanted, but I'm just relearning stuff, and I never really did any pushes before that went beyond the massive dev chart. Printing this weekend and I'm really excited to see what I can pull out of those negatives.  E: whoops. I already posted this... on this very page even. I'm tired.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 26, 2024 05:58
|
|
|
I'm really glad to hear all this having just purchased a V600 (still in box). I don't have a good light source for DSLR scanning (or a macro) and the extra steps for getting the images is kind of annoying. I also wanted to be able to scan some of my old prints for which the negatives were ruined, and my multifunction printer can't even get a halfway decent photo scan at 8x10. E: and I have 6x6 negatives to scan, too.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 2, 2024 13:22
|
|
|
What 120 film should I pick up for B&W portraiture under studio lights? I don't have any info on how bright they are or what ISO settings are usually used, so I need to ballpark something that probably has a bit of latitude to push or pull. I want to try something finer grained than HP5+ which is my normal to-to. E: Delta 100 maybe? I've only used Delta P3200 (and pushed quite beyond 3200 at that), so I'm not sure how the 100 actually looks grain wise.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 27, 2024 13:59
|
|
|
I didn't think TMax was available in 120, and is FP4+ still available? I'll look and see what I can get at the local shops, but I might need to go online for some of those options. E: found the snap I took of the menu. It was that TMax 3200 isn't available in 120. Some bad OCR here 120 - Black and white Fomapan 100 - $6.50 - Fomapan 400 - $ 6.60 IlFORD PANF $10.65 Il ford HPS Plus 400-$10.50 Il ford FP4 Plus 125-$10.20 Kodak Tri-X 400 - $11.00 - KODAK TMAX 100-$12.00 EXPIRED 6-22 KODAK TMAX 400 - $11.50 ILFORD DELTA 3200-$17.95 carticket fucked around with this message at 17:28 on Feb 27, 2024 |
|
#
¿
Feb 27, 2024 17:16
|
|
|
I bought an 80-200 f/2.8.and MPB said it would be here by the 7th and FedEx still doesn't have it. I really wanted it for the weekend. First time ordering from them. Fake edit: impressive. Just checked before posting this. FedEx now has it and thinks it will be delivered tomorrow between 11 and 3. Really looking forward to playing with it both digital and film. My friend has a D750 that she's let me use in the past, so I can use that to get a good feel for the lens before sinking rolls of film into it.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 7, 2024 03:24
|
|
|
Got a few digital shots through the 80-200 f/2.8. Manual focus without a split prism kinda sucks, but I am super stoked with the image. Looking forward to putting some film behind it.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 8, 2024 16:52
|
|
|
What would you all recommend for developing a roll of HP5+ with unknown exposure, been in camera for at least a decade, got fogged by opening the camera, and not stored in any good way? I've got access to HC110 dilution B and XTOL stock. Since it's a shared space with shared supplies I'm not sure I can dilute anything further but I could get something different. E: there's no date on the roll, but it's probably from when I first got the camera from my grandfather. Also, it's an original Kodak Retina and holy poo poo it is so much more manual than my FM. Wind the film by hand, charge the shutter by hand, metering on your own, range finding on your own. Tiny-rear end viewfinder, too. I shot a full roll of HP5+ (36 exp) and I expect none of the pictures to have come out well. carticket fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Mar 19, 2024 |
|
#
¿
Mar 19, 2024 19:10
|
|
|
Megabound posted:Stand development in Rodinal will get you something. Mix 1:100, agitate for the first 30 seconds, then let it sit for an hour. You can give it another agitate at 30 minutes if you like. Any suggestions for getting Rodinal in the US in under a week? Might be pushing it and maybe that roll will have to wait for the next batch. The shop might actually have some Rodinal on hand with the darkroom chemicals, but I'm waiting to hear back.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 20, 2024 15:59
|
|
|
Well, heard back and they have both Rodinal and the HC110. If HC110 suppresses fog, it's probably the better choice since the camera was opened.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 20, 2024 17:30
|
|
|
I'm being offered expired Arista400 bulk reels at $50 each. I've never used it, but I do have a bulk loader at home. Worth it for having something to gently caress around with? For comparison, an unexpired roll of HP5+ is $116.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 23, 2024 13:38
|
|
|
LimaBiker posted:What's arista 400? Is that the same as Rollei RPX400/Agfa APX400/Kentmere 400? That's good stuff. I was told it is the same as Fomapan 400, another film I haven't used
|
|
#
¿
Mar 23, 2024 22:43
|
|
|
I was going to bulk load HP5 because it is just so versatile. I'll often push to 1600. I haven't tried "pulling" back Delta 3200, but that's the other one I use often.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 24, 2024 11:59
|
|
|
Next weekend I'm developing the roll I recently shot in my Retina (I), and the mystery roll. The camera seems to function really well, but I'm not sure how accurate the shutter time is. The camera I really need to get worked on is the Zeiss Contarex. I'd love to get the 55mm f/1.4 serviced because it is so loving stiff. It takes great photos, but it is so much work, and everything about my FM is so much easier.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 30, 2024 05:47
|
|
|
So, I am a Nikon guy, film and digital. I have my grandfather's FM, and so far that has influenced what I buy for lenses. However, I have access to a full frame digital and there are some lenses I'd like to get for it, but they won't be usable on the FM due to the lack of aperture ring. What Nikon 35mm bodies are able to take advantage of these lenses (would be AF-S I believe)? I have a huge gap in knowledge between the FM and the D70S (which was my first Nikon DSLR) in terms of compatibility and technology. E: Sorry, I could just look that up. I'm also looking for advice on which ones would be a good buy. I do action photography on the digital side, and also usually shoot a roll or two of film, but the lack of AF kills me on getting much good on film.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 4, 2024 15:46
|
|
|
I learned two things today: 1) my Kodak Retina focus adjust does not actually adjust. It is stuck at near focus and has been for at least 13 years. 2) some films are supposed to be prewashed before developing. Oops.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 8, 2024 03:15
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 17, 2024 16:34 |
|
|
a dingus posted:I learned #1 after a 2 week road trip and vacation. All rolls, garbage. The old retina is like a abusive relationship. You get abused but you can't help but go back and try to fix them. Further research says it's not required, but I turned a batch of HC110 dilution B black by running TMax rolls through without prewashing them, or so I'm told.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 8, 2024 03:42
|
|