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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 10 hours!

Safety Dance posted:

-[x] Order spare tire carrier (Wilco Hitchgate Switch)

Interesting, looks like the same thing EuroWise is selling. I can't get a straight answer on towing/pulling capacity through its extended receiver so I didn't get one for mine (which runs sweep at NEFR, so I need the hitch).

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 10 hours!

Safety Dance posted:

The manufacturer says "Tow Rated hitch for up to 7,500lbs with a 750lb tongue weight".

Oh cool....I would not have a problem with using that for sweep. Or really anything other than my 9k lb dump trailer if it was fully loaded.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 10 hours!

Safety Dance posted:

These crimps are going to be a problem. What's the right way to daisy chain like this? I had trouble fitting the insulation of two wires in one terminal.

What you did is fine with the right parts, but your crimps are undersized for that job. OEMs tend to never do this and instead use extra stupid stuff like splice blocks.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 10 hours!

Safety Dance posted:

Roof rack time. If you have a Cayenne with a panoramic sunroof, it comes with an aluminum T-track on top instead of roof rails.

Negative, they all come with that arrangement. The rails are simply an option (like all things Porsche). They are installed like this:


The top piece is the bottom of a factory roof rail. There are three pockets like that. The bottom is a thing that slots into the rail and then goes into the pockets. There's a hole on the inside of the pocket (covered with a plastic plug) where you jam an allen wrench through and tighten the nut that jams against the inside outboard portion of the pocket:


(allen key side, points inboard on the car)


(other side, other end of that allen bolt that jams against the inside of the rail pocket)

If you need dimensions let me know and I'll grab the micrometer.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 10 hours!
Your flux is wet. Throw that spool in the trash.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 10 hours!
Wait until you turn off the ignition with one of your turn signals still on and see what happens.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 10 hours!

Safety Dance posted:

I put down a couple test beads. The left two were with the old spool that Motronic told me to throw out. The one on the right was a new spool -- I _thought_ it was the spool I bought from the welding supply shop last week, but it's actually the one I bought at harbor freight at the same time that I bought the welder. It had just been sitting inside for a while. I'm reasonably pleased with the result, and I hope I can leave this spool in the welder over the weekend if I plan to keep working.

Different climates and all, but I don't notice flux core going off too badly for 6+ months in the machine. I've never had a sealed roll go bad on the shelf - I suppose as long as the plastic is unbroken you're good to store it pretty indefinitely.

I learned that it goes bad the hard way back when my 120v flux core box was babbies first wire feed welder that I decided was a piece of garbage. Until I swapped spools.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 10 hours!

LloydDobler posted:

Just something to consider that I thought of while reading, the whole car is metric. Might want to make your custom stuff metric also, so you know you'll have the tools for it.

While this is true and probably a good idea, most of the car is the kind of metric you need tools for that won't cross over to this rack like torx, e-torx and triple square - many at diameter and thread pitches that don't exist at your local hardware store in the bolt bin aisle.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 10 hours!

bolind posted:

This picture popped up on my FB feed and I thought of you. Apparently, there exists a very rare factory spare tire mount:

Yes, but it doesn't fit "Transsyberia spec" i.e. 265/65-18s tires because of the design, only stock. I was looking for one until I realized that. It's not clear to me what the use case for that option actually was. Not sure how big the crossover of "running stock size tires" and can't "limp home on the foldable spare" actually is. It has to be vanishingly small.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 10 hours!
No on PDCC, yes, those are AC lines.

And yikes I thought better of eurowise. They're seriously telling you to use a loving suspension bolt to mount a bracket? Don't do that. That's a lovely idea.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 10 hours!

Safety Dance posted:

This is what Ferdinand Porsche had in mind, right?

Seems like it to me.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 10 hours!

Safety Dance posted:

Phone posting from my commute, but it threw a CEL on the highway just now. P0351 and P0301. Misfire on one of the cylinders. It intermittently runs rough. I'm already going to the shop tomorrow, so I guess I can ask them to fix it.

Will do more research when I get home. Better now than in two weeks!

The coilpacks on these motors are basically wear items. They are on revision -22 or something ridiculous of the OEM part.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/porsche-ignition-coil-kit-beru-zse012kt1

This is the last set you'll have to buy, because FCP Euro gives a lifetime warranty on parts. For real.

Alternately it could of courrse be something else. But it's likely the coil packs. The second most likely source is valve cover gaskets, which if they haven't been done yet on that one are badly in need. Once the spark plug well seals start to go you get oil down in there and it shorts out the coils.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 10 hours!

Safety Dance posted:

Good News! It's both! The coil pack on #1 cylinder is cracked, and the shop says there's oil likely leaking from the valve cover gaskets.

Yeah, sorry. But that's like.....just one of those things on pretty much everything of this era from all manufacturers at this age. The coil packs were/are all poo poo and that engine is in the dawn of plastic valve covers and intakes. The big squooshy reusable gaskets on those plastic parts, which I really like compared to one time use flat gaskets that you have to scrape off, are just no longer squooshy after 20-ish years of under hood temperatures.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 10 hours!

Safety Dance posted:

Thanks, and no worries. Like I said, I'm really happy the problem revealed itself now when I already had an appointment scheduled at the shop than in two weeks when I'll be on the road to Yellowknife, NT.

It's not a bad job but you probalby don't know how lucky you are to not be doing it. Like most things under that tiny hood, everything is so packed you spend a lot of time just removing things. The "what the HELL??" one for this job is that you need to disconnect the AC compressor clutch (which is on the bottom of the motor) to remove the driver's side valve cover because Hanz decided to route the wire directly over the front 1/4 of it and there is no slack. It should have been routed around the front with the PCV lines. And oh....those PCV lines are brittle as hell. You may be replacing the ones on the brake vacuum pump and/or to the front drivers valve cover area as they break when they're getting removed. Best of luck there. It may happen to them and it won't be their fault.

If you're me and looking at the procedure you spend a week figuring out just how much "while you're in there" you want to do because of that. I ended up pretty far down that rabbit hole up to and including "well if these rubber bits are bad......" and refreshed the entire suspension while I was at it. (it was like magic - feels brand new again and i couldn't even tell it needed it before, but after its done you can sure tell it did)

Motronic fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Feb 10, 2024

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 10 hours!
Those aren't designed to take the shock load of a 35+ lb can in that direction, nor at the pop rivets. That's super unsafe.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 10 hours!

Safety Dance posted:

Ok. gently caress. Four steel pop rivets should have a shear strength > 1000 lbs. What's the week point? The latch?

I'll see what I can come up with today.

Steel rivets might be okay.....it still feels bad to me. How does it last over time and with vibration? Why not use regular hardware?

And yeah, that latch isn't designed for whatever shock load will be on it. I doubt they did any sort of real structural/material analysis on those because they just aren't intended to be used that way. The strap and how its attached may not even be designed for anything more than keeping a can in there from jostling out in a horizontal orientation. If you call and ask them I'm going to guess they will just flat out tell you they're not meant to be installed like that.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 10 hours!

Safety Dance posted:

Clearance issues. I didn't have enough room for a bolt head in places where the mount touches one of the cross bars of my roof rack. Each can has four rivets, and each rivet provides 260lbs in shear and 310 lbs in tension.

I'll check them for any play at every fuel stop.

I hear what you're saying. I'm all out of good ideas at the moment, so I added a couple straps so each can will be positively retained if the latch fails.

If nothing else, turn them around (eventually - not saying now). The bottom is surely a lot more sound than the strap and latch.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 10 hours!
Oh poo poo I hope she's doing well and that's one hell of a decision to have to make/lots of stress no matter which way you go. Sorry to hear it.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 10 hours!
This thread is so good.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 10 hours!

Safety Dance posted:

- The Cayenne thinks one of the right turn signals is burnt out, but only under -20 degrees

The plugs the headlights go into are a constant soure of pain. I've had to spray the hell out of them with deoxit multiple times in the last whatever number of years I've had this thing (almost 10) to avoid cold weather gremlins with headlights. It's on my list to really get in there and do something with it, but the occasional touch up has done the job well enough for long enough.......

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 10 hours!
THe most unbelievable thing of all of this is that someone did that, and made it, in a 20+ year old Discovery 2. I'm sure it blew head gaskets along the way, but I guess it was cold enogh to not matter.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 10 hours!
Yikes, that's bad.

I don't thinik you're salvaging any of that nor would you want to. Depin those connectors and remake the harness. Butt splices aren't gonna cut it.

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 10 hours!
Mystery button controls the level of the footwell lighting. Because it's critically important one can set that to their exact requirement.

The footwell lighting dimmer module is also one of those "forever codes". Doesn't matter what you do or how many times you clear it, that module always has some code in it. It doesn't matter, it still works.

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