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Speaking of airbrushes, loving this "Used - Like New" airbrush + compressor I got on Amazon.  The lazy part of me is tempted to say gently caress it because the compressor looks fine and it was 15 bux cheaper than just an equivalent compressor, but the part of me that's not an idiot is like why on earth would you trust anything from a company that sold this as "like new". Anyways, here's a WIP blight hauler that's close to done. I need to finish the eye, punch up the boils, and redo to the verdigris + a few other touch-ups. Trying to finish it up quickly because I'm excited for the next model in my queue.    I'm going to use the 3d printed model below for my first foray into OSL, and I want to try for a really dramatic lighting effect. 
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Mar 12, 2024 05:39
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Nessus posted:It occurs to me after a night of painstaking basecoating: is that what the broad flat brush was for? Probably not. Flat brushes are mostly used for dry brushing (or large flat panels on vehicles) in miniature painting. They’re likely to catch raised areas and miss recesses because of their shape + ones marketed for minis are often made of really stiff bristles. That said, do whatever works for you.
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Mar 12, 2024 16:01
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Nessus posted:I think I overthinned honestly but that was also from having the wet palette out overnight. The red and white did look decent after a while but I think a second pass will help. Also a mecha dendritic arm to hold the brush If you haven't seen it, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI on thinning your paints is really worth a watch because it shows the process of making adjustments to reach their desired consistency and talks about how how different applications require different consistencies. Skip to ~11:30 to just see the mixing process if you don't want to watch a twenty minute video. Appropriately thinned some colors still need more coats than others because of the nature of the pigments. Nothing helps like practice but if you aren't already, try painting with both elbows on the table and your hands braced together at the wrists with your brush hand on top of the hand holding the model. It might feel a bit awkward at first but should greatly help with stabilizing your brush strokes.
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Mar 12, 2024 18:39
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$100 is a little low, but I'm skeptical that you need to spend at least ~$85 to get an airbrush that'll be fine for priming and base coating while you're learning. I'll find out later tonight I guess. You may have accounted for this already, but don't forget that you'll want a respirator, airbrush cleaner, and thinner in your cost estimate. My total startup costs will approximately be: $90 compressor + tank $10 hose $30 airbrush $40 thinner + cleaner + flow improver $20 respirator $30 primers (black, grey, and white) So the secondary stuff cost almost as much as the compressor+brush.
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Mar 13, 2024 23:08
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grassy gnoll posted:2) If you're buying a crappy airbrush for thirty bucks just to use for priming and base coating, and you're planning to buy a nicer brush that will let you actually paint for realsies at 80-100 bucks, why not spend ~$100 instead of ~$130? Because Airbrushes have a reputation for being finnicky, and I'd rather gently caress up a $30 brush than a $100 brush. Plus, you can make the same argument for a $200 brush vs. a $100 brush. I can believe that's true for the cheapest airbrushes you get in compressor + airbrush combo kits, but the ~$30 brushes seem usable. After my first outing, I can tell I'm certainly the limiting factor, not the brush, and cleanup wasn't bad.  
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Mar 14, 2024 06:05
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PoptartsNinja posted:I finished a thing: PoptartsNinja posted:I finished a thing: This is dope. I really dig the candy color paint job and the blends near the head. Also, the idea to place them where two distinct environments meet so you can show off incorporating each giant leg into the different scenes is really nice. Spoilers for constructive criticism in case you just want to vibe in your accomplishment. I like the idea of the base with meeting of very distinctive landscapes, but the execution is a little confusing. It might be a lack of 40k knowledge, but I'm not sure what the blue flames are. Also, I think the lava and the bottom of the foot need to be much brighter. Parts of the tentacles and shin guard are brighter than the lava and bottom of the foot, and the statue is much brighter than the surrounding lava.
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Mar 15, 2024 03:00
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I kept trying but could barely make any difference, I just don't think this Pixel 8 has a very good sensor tbqh. One light or two key lights, move the light closer or father back, turn down the power, etc, the camera keeps doing post processing it thinks is useful which makes it harder to modify and has a weird pixellation. Maybe I need to not use the default camera app. The Open Camera app gives you direct control over all the available options, is free, and doesn't seem to have any annoying ads. Only downside is it's minimal in guidance so I don't have a clue how to effectively use it
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Mar 15, 2024 17:39
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Amazon seems straight-up cursed for some airbrush-related products. The new spray booth I ordered was clearly stripped for parts by someone who swapped in their broken parts and returned it. Same thing happened with the first compressor + airbrush combo I ordered.
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Mar 17, 2024 03:30
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Nessus posted:Yeah I think I may have veered into the borderland of glazes. What I did, sort of by accident, with the jade was to add a brushload of water and otherwise to just have my cycle be clean-dip, wipe on paper towel, water-pot dip, paint blob dip. However my main coverage was with white/ivory and their red. I also agree that their titanium white is borderline magical. You can keep some parchment paper to the side and test the mixed paint on it. Paint on it like you were painting a model and whether the paint stays where you put it or snaps back / how quickly it does will tell you how thin it is (thinner = more snap back). The exact consistency will be a little trial and error, but this will let you learn over time what consistency you want for base coast/glaze etc. so variations in paint brands or pigments don't mess you up. Some people do the same thing with the back of their hand or nail. Harvey Mantaco posted:Forgive me This is amazing
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Mar 18, 2024 06:22
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I'm starting my first attempt at really strong OSL and I'd like to get a more exact idea of where the light is hitting than eyeballing it. Does anybody know of any easy-ish way to do that with software? Or have general advice? My thought if software doesn't exist was to use a bunch of straightened tiny paperclips and sticky tack to physically map out the edges of the light and take a few reference pictures.
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Mar 19, 2024 01:00
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Cannibal Smiley posted:Well, the theory is there, but I shouldn't have bought boar-hair stenciling brushes. They had some plastic ones that look a lot more forgiving. I think you need to thin the paint more; it still looks like it was dry brushed rather than stippled. The white paint probably doesn't help either. A slight off-white like a bone or grey might be easier worth trying. Contrast marines tests. Really wish I hadn't glued them to their bases, it makes basing them a pain in the rear end.   Progress on the blight hauler. I cleaned up the stippling a bit to make it less pronounced and have highlights instead of purely mottled, and I'm trying to create a focal point near the eye. The verdigris and rust are works in progress. Not sure whether to go for an eye of Sauron type-look or more like an animal eye. 
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Mar 21, 2024 06:45
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Mr Teatime posted:My kingdom for a video guide explaining how to paint chaos gold trim like the gw studio does. I’ve had it explained to me, I’ve seen pictures but I just can’t get it right. Do you have a reference photo? Looking at the recent announcements from Adepticon it looks like they're doing NMM, but clicking randomly around the store it seems like there's a mix of true metallic and NMM. I'm a big fan of Richard Gray's tutorials, and he has a number for NMM gold: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T0Le3Y2E4WY His style is longer videos painting whole/substantial portions of models, which isn't to everyone's taste, but he does an excellent job verbalizing what he's thinking about/paying attention to. Cease to Hope posted:what if all i have is a syringe full of drain cleaner, will that suffice Thanks! You inspired me to give a realistic-ish human eye a shot for the first time, and I'm reasonably happy with how it turned out:  I'm calling it here and moving onto basing. I'm content with the verdigris and still unhappy with the rust, but I've spent enough time on it I think it's time to move on. I've got plenty more death guard to paint so it won't be my last chance to paint some rust. After basing I'll need to figure out how to take a picture where the detail on the eye is visible without having the the stippling and the verdigris look extremely textured.
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Mar 23, 2024 06:47
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https://www.warhammer-community.com/2024/03/24/golden-demon-2024-winners-revealed-at-adepticon/ I'm curious, is anyone here familiar with how judges make their decisions? No shade, these are all amazing, but I'm trying to understand what put the winner of the Open Competition ahead of number two, and two ahead of three in the Horus Heresy and Age of Sigmar Large Miniature categories. Just trying to train my eyes so to speak
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Mar 27, 2024 17:48
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Virtual Russian posted:Art contests involving high levels of skill aren't judged on flaws. Flaws will count against you extremely heavily, to the point of essentially being disqualifing. It is far more likely they are judging concept and execution. Basically, what was the artist's original concept, and how do all the elements of design and painting support that concept. Cease to Hope posted:i don't know how they score but all three of those strike me as better compositions than what they're compared to. on the same level technically but clearer lines of movement and focus Thanks, this really helps. Taking another look I think I see what you mean. Taking the silver and bronze from the Aos Large Miniature for examples, here's what I see now and people can tell me if I'm totally missing the mark:   Overall impression of the scenes is that the bone reaper is standing guard at a pass, and the flesh eater is rallying troops for a charge or delivering a Shakespearean monologue. Both models are elevated relatively high off of the base. The bone reaper is off-center with the stairs circling up to them in the upper-right which creates a nice impression, while the flesh eater is centered which has a neutral effect. The shield resting on the rock, the chipping on the shield, and the destroyed banister give an eternal guardian vibe. These details, the spread body language of the mini, its sight line, and the stairs/framing all complement and reinforce each other. The flesh eater's pose calls to mind fantasy movies where the general strikes a dramatic pose before leading the charge. But they're standing on the ruins of a building, on a rocky outcrop, which is a bit at odds with the story of the pose because that doesn't meld with where most armies would do battle. Centering the mini also gives it a more static impression as if it were urging the troops forward, but if that were the case the sight line wouldn't match because then it should be looking forward. The raised arm and sword are telling one story and implying motion while the rest of the composition creates a more static impression instead of accentuating the impression of motion (or imminent motion). I could be reading too much into this arm and head pose as saying "let's charge", but the only other reference I have for that body language is dramatic theater productions.
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Mar 29, 2024 19:00
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Behold, a ham     Definitely see a bunch of things I could improve, but this is a clear step up from anything I've painted before so for that I'm quite happy with it. Bark! A Vagrant fucked around with this message at 19:08 on Mar 29, 2024 |
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Mar 29, 2024 19:05
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Professor Shark posted:Well, I wanted this guy to be done, but I see from these pics I need to do another round on the flamer tube and revisit the base- I can’t seem to find a muddy brown method I’m happy with. Looks great to me, I don't know if orks would worry about perfectly painted hazard stripes but I could see why it'd bother you. The details on the horns 
Bark! A Vagrant fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Mar 29, 2024 |
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Mar 29, 2024 19:22
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Thanks, it's interesting to hear other people's perspectives. While they're of course better than anything I'll ever do, it's nice to see some of these details and think about how to apply the concepts some day. It's interesting to me that something so important at higher levels of execution is a bit at odds with intro-mini-painting advice, namely how there's so much emphasis on a "base, shade, and highlight" approach to painting including slap chop, zenithal highlighting, contrast paints etc. that it almost teaches you not to create areas of focus on the model. e: came across a video but lost the link of a pro painter commenting on the GD entries, and one painting element here they called out was that some of the organic elements of the vampire transition too abruptly/don't carry through as far as they should. Particularly the purple tones at the joints In vaguely-related beginner painter news, color is weird. I'm planning out the colors to use for my first OSL/Grisaille-esque outing and have learned that a number of my intuitions were very wrong. What I thought were shades of yellow are entirely different hues all at the same value, and the actual shades of yellow are different varieties of olive. I somehow thought this while also knowing the contradictory fact that red + yellow = orange. Bark! A Vagrant fucked around with this message at 07:40 on Mar 30, 2024 |
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Mar 30, 2024 05:35
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Starting progress    I see I need to brighten the area to the right of his outstretched leg a bit, and do something about the back side. I want to capture two light sources: the lantern with a yellow/orangey light and a much paler moonlight. My initial plan was to use greys for the moonlight, but from my initial attempt (not pictured) getting the greys bright enough to see contrast requires a much brighter grey than I want, and what you see pictured was trying to step up from pure black to very dark grey (with a patch hit with a contrast blue to see what it'd look like). Looking at a couple reference pictures of people carrying lanterns at night, I think I need to work with desaturated blues instead of greys.
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Mar 31, 2024 02:58
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Z the IVth posted:Do you need the beads for the mixer to work? I'm a bit leery of beads as I suspect they're going to jam my droppers. You don't need the beads, though they also aren't going to jam your droppers. Plus if they somehow did you could unjam them with a paperclip end in about two seconds. Progress shot current then before:  Messy, but the back feels like it's trending in the right direction. Before was dark blue-grey with black shadows; the current one mixes the dark blue-grey with crimson/purple for the shadows, dark blue-grey and dark blue-grey mixed with a saturated blue for the mid-tones, and a blue-grey mixed with a bit of a saturated blue for the highlights.
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Apr 2, 2024 10:38
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great big cardboard tube posted:AoS dominion: $104 on Amazon tons of minis will last me up to months of painting if I stick at it and I know there's a local scene for AoS and I'm interested in both platemail boys and orc nonsense. Thanks for the tip. Not that my backlog needed it, but the Dominion box for a hundred bux was too good to pass up. They must be clearing out inventory before the new AoS edition and starter set comes out.
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Apr 9, 2024 00:52
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e; Y'all need to learn that a falling knife/pointy thing has no handle jfc Learning to use the airbrush for anything beyond priming is a bit of a pain, but I'm slowly making progress. Mostly it can be demoralizing because an errant spray can cause way more rework than an errant brush stroke. On a related note, Gaahleri is clearing out their Amazon stock of one of their older "premium" airbrushes at $42 (40% off, actually as far as I can tell, not Amazon pricing gimmicks) that I think is being discontinued. I've been really happy with their $30 starter airbrush, I haven't felt the drawbacks commonly mentioned with older cheaper airbrushes, so I decided to roll the dice and pick one up. Bark! A Vagrant fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Apr 16, 2024 |
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Apr 16, 2024 19:22
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Nebalebadingdong posted:ive been learning some blender. did some animals and got some test prints painted  ouroborossum is awesome
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Apr 16, 2024 21:55
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WIP goblin. Debating whether to smooth out the blends on the cloak, or at least the hood, because I think the obvious brush marks end up having a weird sort of charm here. Though my brain might be tricking itself to avoid work.  
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Apr 17, 2024 16:58
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SkyeAuroline posted:What do people use for applying texture pastes to bases? In the past the most texture basing I've done has been sand/dirt, where it was easy enough to just use a popsicle stick to smooth some slight ripples across the base and call it good. I'm working on a kill team using Vallejo Thick Mud and a blend of products for snow, and the popsicle stick... is not cutting it for getting natural looking mud. Even less so for getting snow to look right. Do you just use an large, flat synthetic brush or something to apply it? I'm not sure what the intended method is. I've been using this cheap set of stainless steel sculptor's tools and have been happy with it. Based on the earlier responses I might add a silicone shaper to the arsenal because the texture does like to stick to the metal sometimes, but it looks like the metal tips come in more aggressively shaped varieties than the silicone shapers.
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Apr 23, 2024 05:33
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Excellent concept, excellent butt cheeks. I'm impressed it doesn't immediately tip over
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Apr 23, 2024 21:17
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