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GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

any suggestions for oil tube storage? I'd like something better than just throwing them in a drawer

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GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007



Another Malifaux mini

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Muir posted:

I'm Jewish and care a lot about how people handle the Holocaust, and I actually don't have a problem with AK's project. You can see the listing for the book on their site still, actually: https://ak-interactive.com/product/condemnation-when-modeling-becomes-art-and-art-is-a-social-denounce/ It wasn't just focused on the Holocaust, it was focused on genocides and other atrocities and human tragedies (a child drowning, an IV drug user injecting). I believe they were sincere when they said they undertook the project to highlight these atrocities to condemn them (hence the title of the book). It struck me similarly to this fantastic Goonhammer article on playing a tabletop wargame as, for example, Nazi Germany: https://www.goonhammer.com/goonhammer-historicals-butterflies-pinned-to-a-board-or-why-we-play-the-baddies/ At most they're misguided artists, not neo-Nazis.

I read this and I understand his point, and otherwise agree with him, but I still don't think at any point in time I ever really want to even remotely humanize the Nazis, even in the context of "just a wargame" when people out there by and large are missing satire completely with no critical thinking skills, it's safer for me to just assume the dude with Nazi armies probably is

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Geisladisk posted:

So should we just stop doing WW2 historical wargaming entirely? :confuoot:

The vast, vast majority of people who are into WW2 historicals are entirely harmless middle aged centrist dads.

I understand not wanting to involve yourself in a game where one side by necessity plays the Nazis, but by default assuming everyone who is into WW2 historicals is a literal Nazi is pretty wild.

I guess it's a moot point when I refuse to play historical minis. I'm not saying those people are Nazis, but I certainly would have my guard up just in case.

I could be too online brained but I've seen enough black Templar and kreig fans "just saying" about how the Imperium is the good guys and various poo poo about trans people online that it just makes logical sense to be worried.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

anyone got a tutorial for "gargoyle skin"? Wanting to paint some and I'm a bit of a loss what color to go for

Think more Gargoyles Cartoon and less Weeping Angels

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Cease to Hope posted:

Those cartoons are painted with acrylics, so you can apply a lot of the design techniques directly. Solid blocks of even color, shapes defined by solid exaggerated under-shadows, lines/seams/parts separated by hard black lines. (Heavy pinwashing can help but maybe you just want to apply opaque acrylic black.)

The main problem is that to pull off that design, you need clean fields of color with only a few defining detailed parts. Most minis aren't designed like that. So you'll need to think about what minis you use, or else how you want to alter/kitbash them to make them benefit from those techniques.

I wonder if there's a happy medium I can go for hrm

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007



Another Flesh Construct down

i need to wrap my head around blending I have a hard time with that

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007



Just a dinky little Chihuahua

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Any suggestions for a decent airbrush? I think i wanna give it another try

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Is there a decent airbrush tank combo for $100? Looks like the iwata eclipse is $200 which is a bit much i think

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Count Thrashula posted:

I think a better question is what would you like to do with it? Do you just want to basecoat primers and all-over colors? Or do you want to be able to do really detailed airbrushing?

I think prime, then basecoat, zenithal, and OSL effects

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

grassy gnoll posted:

Short answer, no.

Longer answer, a tanked compressor is about a hundred bucks or so by itself, and you probably want a brush that costs about the same to start with. lovely compressors and airbrushes are going to make your life miserable.

Don't buy a $500 Sparmax compressor and an H&S Infinity for your first setup either - those things are nice, but it's not worth it when you're starting out, and you're going to bend a needle or lose a nozzle somewhere along your route to learning to use the tool. Do this with a cheaper brush that's got easy-to-find replacement parts, instead of having to buy a whole new $50 crappy brush.

Those cordless bottle-and-airbrush combos are only good for stuff you'd use a rattlecan for, so if you can't drop something in the $250-ish range right now, just save your pennies a while longer.

Uehg. Yeah $250 doesn't really feel worth the value for what I'd get out of it, so I guess I'll just wait.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Sometimes they also change the formula being used, people complain about that periodically on facebook or whatever when someone is like "look these two shades are nothing alike!!" of their pots of citadel paint or whatever.

my ex used to complain when a skein of yarn wasn't from the same batch because the pigment ends up being slightly off

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007



Anyone have any tips on making the background here flat black? I feel like I'm missing something. I got this new Maxx black backdrop and two desk ring lights from opposite sides, and this looks "good" but I can't figure out how to edit the image to be flat black without blowing out the rest of the mini

My phone also seems to be registering a weird aura around the mini...

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

RangerScum posted:

Move the model further away from the backdrop- closer to the camera, and turn down the power of your lights.

I kept trying but could barely make any difference, I just don't think this Pixel 8 has a very good sensor tbqh. One light or two key lights, move the light closer or father back, turn down the power, etc, the camera keeps doing post processing it thinks is useful which makes it harder to modify and has a weird pixellation. Maybe I need to not use the default camera app.


This is after futzing with the levels in paint.net

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Bark! A Vagrant posted:

The Open Camera app gives you direct control over all the available options, is free, and doesn't seem to have any annoying ads. Only downside is it's minimal in guidance so I don't have a clue how to effectively use it

Yeah I'm the same here. I used it and found that the pixel camera app overcompensates dramatically, but when I used that app for selfies it was flat and "washed out" and I don't quite know how to manipulate the settings yet.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Lucinice posted:

People talking about airbrush ventilation has me worried. When I use my lovely built in compressor airbrush to do base coats I wear a mask, should I be using an airbrush booth instead?

it might be fine if you run an air purifier next to you but it's a consideration if you have other people and pets nearby. stuff can linger in the air

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Nessus posted:

I was reviewing the Pro Acryl article on Goonhammer and it struck me that I might have been pre-emptively over-thinning, which created more problems for me than it solved. How hard do y'all generally thin that stuff? Is it actually pre-watered somehow or did they just Do Good on that line of paints?

it's already pretty drat thin, especially the whites and oranges or other light colors, i usually do the normal amount of thinning on the wet palette one does to not have a brush overloaded with paint and go for it. You can certainly go thinner but you're pushing it into glazes at that point and I'm honestly too impatient to spend much time glazing at all, takes too drat long.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Triskelli posted:

Looking for some feedback on my first ever painted mini:





I was working from a friend’s collection of paint, so I wasted a lot of time and built up a lot of layers tinkering with the colors, and our paint day ended before I could really go over the details. Still, I’m proud of how this one came out.

Think back to however you painted the model. Think about how "wet" the paint was on the brush and how it flowed out of the brush onto the model. Now, next time, try thinning it more by adding a smidge more water than you did before.

Besides that, for a first mini, I think you did well with coloring in the lines of such a small object. I think it came out quite well!

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

ProAcryl Metallics are ok but not as good as vmc

Some ProAcryl are quite thin compared to similar colors from GW

But GW has a better range the entire ProAcryl range is good, if not missing some pastels and some brighter colors

I own their entire range but I still enjoy some GW reds

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GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I want the three new sets lol

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