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bEatmstrJ posted:I finally got around to giving my office the much needed facelift it deserved. Especially since I work from home. You got rid of the cat-chair. Shame
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Apr 3, 2015 07:01
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Sappo569 posted:You got rid of the cat-chair. I'm actually considering making him a spot near the wall where his chair was. Haven't decided what to put there, but for now the cat chair is in my bedroom.
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Apr 3, 2015 07:23
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Nice work! The floor's rather dark for my tastes, but otherwise it looks good. I would recommend, however, that you get one of those plastic floor mats for your office chair before your floor gets all scratched to poo poo from rolling back and forth, like mine did 
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Apr 3, 2015 14:52
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Nice work! The floor's rather dark for my tastes, but otherwise it looks good. I thought about this but I didn't want to ugly up my floor with one of those mats. But I also don't want scratched floors either. So instead I just bought some rubberized wheels for my chair that won't scratch. Thanks for the heads up!
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Apr 3, 2015 20:51
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bEatmstrJ posted:I thought about this but I didn't want to ugly up my floor with one of those mats. But I also don't want scratched floors either. So instead I just bought some rubberized wheels for my chair that won't scratch. Thanks for the heads up! Hm, that could work. Do also watch out for dirt and crap that can get caught in the wheels and rub against the floor, though.
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Apr 3, 2015 20:56
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Hm, that could work. Do also watch out for dirt and crap that can get caught in the wheels and rub against the floor, though. Noted.
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Apr 4, 2015 00:52
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I just starting a bathroom remodel project. Finally time to say goodbye to the teal toilet and tub. Somehow I will cope.  Today was the fun part... DESTRUCTION!  Side note: figured out why my house is so drafty. lovely insulation. Who would have thought? 
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Apr 14, 2015 05:23
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I'm in the process of designing a Jim Beam chandelier for a friends bar and I've worked out a simple light shroud to both provide light and diffuse it to make it look pretty. The problem is, I need to find and order a 3' by 2' plastic sheet that's at least 30 mil in thickness, and also either clear or transparent. It also need to be flexible because I'm going to roll it into a 2-1/2" dia tube, and a 6" dia tube. My skills in finding this kinda stuff are weak at best, and everywhere that I can think of to call does not carry anything that I need or can use. Does anybody know of any online retailers that sell sheets that small?
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Apr 15, 2015 02:06
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http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-plastic-sheets/=wr75tt http://www.acrylite-shop.com/ You could just buy tube instead of trying to roll it, y'know. http://www.mcmaster.com/#plastic-hollow-rods/=wr76ng http://www.acrylite-shop.com/US/us/purchase-acrylite/tube-5tvmaegd8pg.html Both of those offer tube from <1" up to at least 12" in a variety of materials. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Apr 15, 2015 |
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Apr 15, 2015 02:09
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https://www.tapplastics.com/ https://www.usplastic.com/ https://www.eplastics.com/ First thought off the top of my head is clear vinyl 'shower curtain' type plastic which I've purchased from local fabric stores before; http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=38909&catid=873.
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Apr 15, 2015 02:31
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Wow, that was a fast reply. looks like I'll be doing some shopping after work. Thank you!
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Apr 15, 2015 15:08
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lookyhooky posted:I just starting a bathroom remodel project. Finally time to say goodbye to the teal toilet and tub. Somehow I will cope. dude that teal toilet & tub owns IMO, and would look great if you put in dark floors & white walls Bad Munki posted:http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-plastic-sheets/=wr75tt Wandering Orange posted:https://www.tapplastics.com/ oh man this is cool as hell, I've been wanting some tuff plastic stuff and didn't know you could get it in so many shapes OTS. bless.
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Apr 20, 2015 09:15
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90-ish year old lathe somewhat restored. As I got it with a very Christmas-y theme going on.  I cleaned, derusted, and repainted to the original colors (best I could match anyway). I haven't shined the bare metal yet, and may just leave the patina. My phone struggled with the orange-red color (vermilion) but the first picture below is closest to real life color.    
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Apr 22, 2015 05:50
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Looks great. Did you keep pics of the main restoration stages?
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Apr 22, 2015 10:30
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Underflow posted:Looks great. Did you keep pics of the main restoration stages? No, I should have but it's pretty messy and I don't like stopping or mucking up my phone. Basically I wire brushed, sanded, and scrubbed with degreaser. For the most part it wasn't in terrible condition so most of the work was just removing old paint and putting on new. Forgot to mention, the paint is Rustoleum satin black and satin paprika. It's amazing how thick the factory paint was and how well it hid a lot of small defects. I either going to sell it or make a display, probably a display as it isn't worth much money.
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Apr 22, 2015 18:25
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wormil posted:No, I should have but it's pretty messy and I don't like stopping or mucking up my phone. Basically I wire brushed, sanded, and scrubbed with degreaser. For the most part it wasn't in terrible condition so most of the work was just removing old paint and putting on new. Forgot to mention, the paint is Rustoleum satin black and satin paprika. It's amazing how thick the factory paint was and how well it hid a lot of small defects. I either going to sell it or make a display, probably a display as it isn't worth much money. Pity, I was hoping to pick up a few clues there. Lovely thing really; you should keep it.
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Apr 23, 2015 11:06
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Kick rear end on the restoration.
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Apr 23, 2015 12:54
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God drat that lathe is sexy. Would love to buy it if only i would have room for such thing, but yeah you should definitely keep it
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Apr 23, 2015 15:17
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Underflow posted:Pity, I was hoping to pick up a few clues there. Lovely thing really; you should keep it. Honestly I didn't think anyone would be interested in the process. Here are a couple but it already has one or more coats of paint. The orange red inside the pulley is what I'm trying to match. The color in the first and second picture are different than the final color. I originally bought fire orange instead of paprika, by mistake. I have definite plans for a display that will involve some reproduction stuff. Plans are already drawn and the artwork is done. I'll try to take more pictures of the process. I'm also going to make a reproduction tool rest. I found one for sale but we couldn't agree on price.  Anything that would fit was baked in a toaster oven at some temperature below 200 degrees Fahrenheit. I don't know if this makes the paint tougher but it sure dries a lot faster.  Contains a teaser of another project in progress.  I discuss the specs and usefulness of this lathe on my blog, if anyone is interested. http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/2015/04/goodell-pratt-bench-lathe-part-1.html
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Apr 24, 2015 03:26
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Nice, thanks. Picked up an idea from your blog too (the box joint jig). Thinking of oldfashioned woodworking: have you ever seen Dick Proenneke's Alone In The Wilderness? Guy went to Alaska with a minimum of supplies and handtools (only the metal parts; handles and such are made on the spot), built a cabin with stone chimney, bear-proof larder, etc. It's just his own 16mm camera on a tripod, no film crew, minimum of voice-over. Everything he does is ye olde rule of thumbe-ish and yet comes out great. Well worth watching .
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Apr 24, 2015 07:52
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Underflow posted:Alone In The Wilderness Watched the Youtube version, dude was amazing. First attempt at a reproduction knob in wood. Brain vapor locked and cut the diameter too small but otherwise I think I nailed it. I'll use this one for now and move on with my reproduction tool rest then later, make new knob.
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Apr 26, 2015 08:17
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Guess this counts as a project. Renovating the clothes cabiner (w/e), new white (not white in photo) paint, oak parquet floor (this felt like a really good idea!) and next some shelves, new lighting etc.
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Apr 29, 2015 09:33
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Are you going to put base boards in?
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Apr 29, 2015 21:44
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JEEVES420 posted:Are you going to put base boards in? I did, and did the miter joints (?) with a really crude saw, so they are not too fancy. No one's going to look at them though since there's only a very small strip in the corner where base boards are actually visible. Installed the shelves too, now I "only" need to learn to organize better! Perhaps even how to fold clothes. At least now it's easier than ever to pack the whole room to the brim...   A pro tip I learned while putting in the base boards: measure the board before assuming it will be long enough. The salesperson claimed they were 330cm long, but actual length was 306cm. So I only had just enough board, and in one place had to use a small 5cm piece. Ihmemies fucked around with this message at 18:03 on May 2, 2015 |
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May 2, 2015 17:55
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For the integrity of the set, typically you should trim the pieces to allow for a bit more continuity for each individual piece. Eg if your looking for 330cm total, cut one at 140 and one at 190, opposed to 320 and 10. This will prevent the one smaller pierce from being immediately dislodged if bumped with any force. Typically, you want 6-8in minimum [15-20cm]. Also, this is a good length to offset your flooring row edges to insure the integrity of the lay and prevent ends from popping loose. Not a huge deal in a closet, and looks good. Dead Pressed fucked around with this message at 21:03 on May 2, 2015 |
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May 2, 2015 20:58
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I know, but I messed up and it was like 120+180 and 36+120+30+68+44  And that one 30cm board was too short by a few centimeters. That small 5cm extension got hidden behind a shelf though so no one will ever know.Time to hit Ikea tomorrow and see what kind boxes and stuff they have for sale. The old closet was a huge mess so I never bothered to tidy it
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May 2, 2015 21:08
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Help help! The project creep monster bit me! It started out so simple. Fix this ugly fire pit and retaining wall. One neighbor tells me the previous owner had this professionally installed. Another neighbor says he was proud to have built it in a day. Based on other stuff in my house, the PO is a known incompetent and jackass, so... Anyway, to be fair to him I had already removed one course from the fire pit when I remembered to snap a "before" photo. The real problem here is not the ugly fire pit - I could just clean that up and straighten the wall out a bit. You can't really see it in photos well, but this idiot put the fire pit at the peak of a small hill. This means that at comfortable seating distance, you kind of tip over backwards. So my main goal is to adjust the grade a little, make everyone happy.  I'll just get myself a sod cutter, rent it for the whole day, and rip the sod back in the area I want to re-pitch.  Then, I'll use the sod cutter to shave the hill like a firm cheese, simply push some dirt downwards and use it to fill in the lower area. This photo was taken right around the point where I said "gently caress this" and took the sod cutter back.  The next day: A better tool!  Yes..... yes! This will fix that pesky grading issue.  A plan is hatched in SketchUp. That retaining wall is... A little bigger than I was thinking.  Dammit, still digging. Trenching through rock-infested clay is not fun. We measure and spray an outline of our plan.  Great, block is here, need to get that off my lawn now.  Should probably finish all that grading business.  Finally started actually assembling something today. My simple project is now into its third week. I was hoping to have grass seeded by the end of April. Didn't get much further today, although that trench is fully compacted and about 1/3 of the bottom course of my wall is down. Really hoping it does not actually rain tonight. My dad had no problem making a fool of himself driving that lawn tractor the 3 miles over to my place. It's been incredibly useful so far, since my backyard is basically a valley, and running the wheelbarrow up and down steep hills gets old quick.
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May 10, 2015 02:43
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you've adapted to underestimates and it's shaping up nicely! Have you checked prevailing winds to see which direction smoke is most likely to blow ? Are you going to dig a proper pit (with an insert) or just drop something on top of your finished surface?
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May 10, 2015 05:11
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I'm planning to construct a raised ring, using the same block that makes up the retaining wall. It will sit on the finished patio. I'm not fond of the prevailing design of solid rings with the fire base elevated up to near the top of the ring. I much prefer some sort of design where you have light/air gaps through the sidewalls of the whole ring. I also will be lining the whole thing with fire brick, to hopefully ward off much of the cracking of the larger blocks. Not sure if that will actually work or not, but, eh, sits on top of patio and can be fixed/replaced once it goes completely to hell. Unfortunately I screwed up one item already - the retaining wall I bought is Belgard's Wellington Wall, basically their knock-off of VersaLok, with the little pins that hold the courses together. What I didn't know is that the corner units for the wall also have the grooves and holes for these pins - I thought they were solid. I already bought a bunch of extra corner units, planning to use those for the fire ring. Still going to do that, but now i have to do some creative splitting to hide the grooves.
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May 10, 2015 05:34
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Actual progress today!  I bought these U-shaped base blocks, which I will state are a fantastic thing to have if you are ever building a retaining wall. No gaps between the blocks, probably lighter than your main wall blocks are, very smooth surface, hand grips for re-positioning, and they're cheaper which is great considering you'll never see them again.  It does take forever though - I think 5 hours or so to get these down properly. I also over vigorously malleted one, and it cracked in half. Like most one-off DIY projects, you finally start getting good at it around the time you finish. The fun thing about a hard scape project is that it is totally front-loaded with nasty work, but then a finished product seems to explode out of nowhere: 
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May 11, 2015 00:44
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Projects for the project god. I've gotten a lot of great ideas from this thread, so I wanted to try to give back. I made a fence, and this gate which I'm pretty pleased with (click for almost life size): 
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May 12, 2015 02:09
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Congrats, you actually put the brace in the right direction! 
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May 12, 2015 02:15
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Don't assume that that orientation is always correct. Use too small a member and you'll get a kL/r failure and it would be better to put it into a tension-only orientation. (the other-way diagonal) Of course, with lumber you're just fine. I've had to fail a number of designs because someone will do that exact set up with a 1" solid rod.
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May 15, 2015 15:16
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I've also seen replacing the brace with a cable and a turnbuckle, which I also like, and of course would go in the other direction.
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May 15, 2015 15:20
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So hey, while we're talking about fences... Anyone mind if I ask how to start a project? These gates are a disaster. There's 6 or 7 holes all over the place whre someone kept trying to fix it, and obviously failing miserably. I assume those push/screw in things are awful, and totally not the right thing to use for what seems like decently heavy gates. I want to replace the hinge with the kind that's on captainblastum's gate, on the face so it doesn't pull out, but should I screw that into the steel? Or can I jump over the steel and just screw into the wood past the metal? Should I (can I?) just replace the gate? 
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May 15, 2015 15:51
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Bad Munki posted:I've also seen replacing the brace with a cable and a turnbuckle, which I also like, and of course would go in the other direction. I always prefer the cable since you can just retension it at any time. Wood construction especially will naturally settle, droop, and creep over time, but if you use a cable, hoisting it back up to where you want it is like a 10 minute job. (and that includes cracking a beer and walking out there) Panthrax posted:So hey, while we're talking about fences... Anyone mind if I ask how to start a project? These gates are a disaster. There's 6 or 7 holes all over the place whre someone kept trying to fix it, and obviously failing miserably. I assume those push/screw in things are awful, and totally not the right thing to use for what seems like decently heavy gates. I want to replace the hinge with the kind that's on captainblastum's gate, on the face so it doesn't pull out, but should I screw that into the steel? Or can I jump over the steel and just screw into the wood past the metal? Should I (can I?) just replace the gate? From this it just looks like the connection is the only failure. Both the gate and the post seem to be in fine condition. You do not have to connect directly to the metal. Just where the horizontals are in the gate itself. You can use captainblastum's hinge, but just keep in mind that it appears as if his gate and post are the same width: they'll always be flush. Yours are different sizes. You may find you have to make an aesthetic sacrifice to make it work right. That may also force the gate to open outward, which may or may not be a concern; workability/right-of-way/general-space concerns aside, man-gates are better opening inward. Personally, I would use a heavy-duty door hinge, (2) thru-bolts per connection. 5/16" lags would do the trick; make sure they're stainless/galvanized since it's outdoors. The hinges would be the strongest part of the fence after that. Those existing hinges are pure garbage. Unless that picture is deceiving me, that bottom one is visibly deformed. Someone obviously tried to spend as little as possible. Also, judging by the apparent age of the fence, but the multiple hole failures, they probably used far too large of a pilot hole which allowed both the deformation as well as the connections to get reamed out.
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May 15, 2015 16:22
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holttho posted:they probably used far too large of a pilot hole which allowed both the deformation as well as the connections to get reamed out. Definitely that, as well as what appears to possibly be untreated lumber(?), and not even painted, so it probably went to poo poo pretty fast once exposed to the weather.
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May 15, 2015 16:49
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Bad Munki posted:Congrats, you actually put the brace in the right direction! Bad Munki posted:I've also seen replacing the brace with a cable and a turnbuckle, which I also like, and of course would go in the other direction. Just for my own knowledge, since I love learning new things about things - and pardon any layman terminology here - it looks like the lumber brace would prevent sagging/deformation by offsetting the downward force of the gate to the structurally strong lower outside corner. A cable would run the opposite way because it'd basically be holding the inside lower corner up against gravity, again using the strength of the hinged side as an anchor. Without getting into a bunch of engineering stuff that I don't know anything about, is that a fair description of how that all works? 
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May 15, 2015 17:12
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Not really that it transfers the force but that the gate is a parallelogram and the far end of the gate sagging down would attempt to compress the brace, or in the case of the cable, stretch it. As a general rule, that's what you want, although as holttho pointed out, depending on what the brace is and how long it is, treating it as a cable may be preferable. (I mean yes, the force is being transferred, but to what is effectively, in this case, a perfectly stable point, assuming your post isn't poo poo, so that's sort of incidental.) As in the original picture, compressing a 2x4 is pretty hard and the fasteners are just there to hold it in place, whereas stretching it (if it were angled the other way) would put all the strain on the fasteners, which are more likely to fail/tear out/etc. and then your gate goes all droopy.
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May 15, 2015 17:18
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Acid Reflux posted:Just for my own knowledge, since I love learning new things about things - and pardon any layman terminology here - it looks like the lumber brace would prevent sagging/deformation by offsetting the downward force of the gate to the structurally strong lower outside corner. A cable would run the opposite way because it'd basically be holding the inside lower corner up against gravity, again using the strength of the hinged side as an anchor. Without getting into a bunch of engineering stuff that I don't know anything about, is that a fair description of how that all works? That's it. The weight of the far end of the gate is vertically downward, and can't be handled by the horizontals, so it has to go into some supporting member. Either the brace goes like the lumber example and is in compression, or goes like the cable example and is in tension. Many cases the one you choose is just a matter of preference/cost/aesthetics, but there are also many situations where one is definitely better than the other. Whether or not people know the maths, it's pretty easy for anyone to see that a big, beefy piece of lumber can handle the compression, and a tiny little wire is used for the tension, but that means there is some middle ground where the line is blurred and math has to happen. And that's where engineers get paid.
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May 15, 2015 17:23
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