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Leperflesh posted:I think some folks skimmed past this, but: dovetails are not easy, especially when you're probably going to be cutting them by hand since you don't have the specialized tools to do otherwise. wow amazing picture thank you. For workbench guy do not try and do dovetails. I mean definitely do try to do one but not for your workbench
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Jan 27, 2018 21:03
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Noted on dovetails. I think it’d be nice but I did figure it wasn’t easy to do them. Thanks also for the explanation on joints and such. I don’t imagine I’d need super strong joints for the corners, right?
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Jan 27, 2018 21:56
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:wow amazing picture thank you. I picked up this book for pretty cheap and I have found it to be a good quick reference if nothing else: https://www.amazon.com/Good-Wood-Joints-Albert-Jackson/dp/1558704086/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1517087690&sr=8-6&keywords=Wood+Joints There's a lot of design/engineering theory and practical skill that goes into joinery and a ton of in-depth books on it probably better than that one, but as a cheap introduction to "there's a million ways to join two pieces of wood and they all have their place" it's worth snagging.
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Jan 27, 2018 22:16
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Even if your goal is a workbench, if you are starting from nothing it will be really helpful to build a pair of sawbenches first
GEMorris fucked around with this message at 04:48 on Jan 28, 2018 |
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Jan 28, 2018 04:46
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life is killing me posted:Noted on dovetails. I think it’d be nice but I did figure it wasn’t easy to do them. Thanks also for the explanation on joints and such. It depends. That's always the answer until you have some kind of design.
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Jan 28, 2018 06:08
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I’ll post more detail and questions later but I think this is a more sensible design?
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Jan 28, 2018 06:13
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What heating options do I have for an attached 1 car garage shop with very little ventilation?
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Jan 28, 2018 14:37
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A ~1200W space heater that you have to turn off before operating any other tools that are on the same circuit?
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Jan 28, 2018 15:32
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Jaded Burnout posted:I’ll post more detail and questions later but I think this is a more sensible design? Nice! What's supporting the railing and don't forget the kickers
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Jan 28, 2018 18:37
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Make sure to leave room for insulation under the stairs
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Jan 28, 2018 18:40
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You should install heating in the stair steps.
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Jan 28, 2018 18:42
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:What's supporting the railing This is a question I was going to ask at some point. The designs I've seen show the tops of the spindles going into an infill board or bar, which the handrail sits on top of, but no obvious indication of how they're fixed to the stair. My assumption was drill through the top of the tread and into the stringer and slot the bars in with some kind of adhesive but that was an assumption I'd yet to validate. Also, that design is 3 (round) bars per step because the main retailers were offering 12mm bars, and I'd need 3 to satisfy building regulations, but if I could get ~20mm bars I could go with two which I think would make my life easier in a few ways, they just don't seem to be stocked in wrought iron very much. I guess this is a question more for the metalworking thread. Harry Potter on Ice posted:don't forget the kickers Could you clarify this one? I wasn't aware of them until now and my googling is coming up with contradictory results. Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Jan 28, 2018 |
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Jan 28, 2018 19:20
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I am thinking now I’ll want to build a more basic workbench to get a feel for what I’m doing based on goon advice. Later on down the line maybe I can build a more complicated workbench such as the Nicholson. I may be able to get some hand-me-down power tools I lack at this point in time, and maybe even some hand tools I’d need. I never took a shop class in school (my school didn’t offer them) so there would be a learning curve for tools I haven’t used before and especially the hand tools. I’m confident I can do a basic workbench, though, and at this time from what y’all are telling me it seems like it’d be wiser to do that rather than spend a ton of money on wood for a Nicholson I’d end up loving up and having to buy more, which would be more expensive in the long run. And this may be a dumb question, but is it viable or necessary to have two layers of plywood for the surface for strength reasons? Or should I just get thicker plywood? e: This is a really rough plan and most likely not at all as detailed or artistically sound as actual woodworking plans, just a mspaint sketch of the general idea. It isn't to scale. I tried doing this in 3d modeling, but the Windows 3d Builder is limited in its shapes, and I got frustrated trying to get a simple wedge to line up like a right triangle--so I said gently caress it and went with mspaint. I know most of you goons are probably far beyond my ability in woodworking, so feel free to laugh at the simplicity of the workbench and the sketch I did, or my overall lack of knowledge which is displayed in all its glory: 
life is killing me fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Jan 28, 2018 |
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Jan 28, 2018 20:51
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http://eduardlocota.com/product/dark-side-lamp/?v=f5b15f58caba If one was to try and make something like this, any tips? Is this just acrylic resin? Tough to work with? Maybe one of those things that looks easier to do than it is?
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Jan 28, 2018 21:52
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There are plenty of people on Reddit r/diy and r/woodworking that have made things like this. The hardest part appears to be breaking the stock and getting attractive splintering. Bubbles and imperfections in the casting might come from just pouring too thick of a layer of resin. You should probably be prepared to make several or at least do a few test pieces.. Edit: the posts that mostly come to mind are people making wood rings with dyed resin uh "gems". Also this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZT0ZTvRFxI
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Jan 28, 2018 22:12
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How do you cut and join a profiled handrail so that you can transition from the downward slope to horizontal while getting the profile to line up?
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Jan 29, 2018 00:04
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Jaded Burnout posted:How do you cut and join a profiled handrail so that you can transition from the downward slope to horizontal while getting the profile to line up? Bisect your angle and cut both horizontal and angled pieces to match. So, for example, if you've got a 45* angle coming down the stairs, you'd cut the end of both pieces to 22.5*. Then they should match. For a compound angle, the same principle applies, just bisect both angles (and hope you have a compound miter saw).
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Jan 29, 2018 06:21
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Magnus Praeda posted:Bisect your angle and cut both horizontal and angled pieces to match. So, for example, if you've got a 45* angle coming down the stairs, you'd cut the end of both pieces to 22.5*. Then they should match. For a compound angle, the same principle applies, just bisect both angles (and hope you have a compound miter saw). Roger that, thanks. Not compound in this case, fortunately.
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Jan 29, 2018 08:15
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My wife and I go to the Oakland Museum Women's Auxiliary White Elephant Preview Sale every year. It's basically a rummage sale in a warehouse the size of a city block, packed with donated stuff, for charity. This year I thought "oh I know I'll go to the hardware area first thing and see what I can snag." Here's what I snagged:      My total price was $102.50. Seems like I did pretty well?
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Jan 30, 2018 06:45
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Nice haul! What's the center plane between the 4 and the 5? And the grey thing above them?
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Jan 30, 2018 12:51
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Has any of you worked with smoked/ammonia-fumed oak? I have a few pieces that I want to laminate with regular white oak, but I'm wondering if the leftover ammonia is going to seep into the other pieces. There's a few pieces of white oak that have gotten a greyish surface just from resting against the fumed oak. Is pva-glue going to isolate the two pieces from each other?
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Jan 30, 2018 12:54
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Nice haul on the rummage sale tools.
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Jan 30, 2018 13:39
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I like seeing completed projects. This was my first time working with plywood in any way. It was a bummer having to paint it, since I could never get the stain dark enough to suit my wife, but it was for her so there you go. She wanted a shelf deep enough to push piano books back into with space in front and a spot to write on while she taught lessons that wouldn't get cluttered up by natural accumulation. I never did get that 1/4" lean out of the side so I didn't even bother with doors after she found that basket.  On to the next thing, which will be better because of this thing!
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Jan 30, 2018 16:03
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ColdPie posted:Nice haul! What's the center plane between the 4 and the 5? And the grey thing above them? I believe what I have here are two "normal" planes - one is marked as a #5, I haven't measured the other one yet. At the bottom is a rabbet plane, and then the grey thing between the two flat planes is a Stanley sureform.
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Jan 30, 2018 19:35
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What do the numbers on a plane mean? Never looked into them to know.
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Jan 30, 2018 19:43
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ilkhan posted:What do the numbers on a plane mean? Never looked into them to know. Length, essentially, although it doesn't match to inches or anything like that as far as I can tell.
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Jan 30, 2018 19:59
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Stanley established a plane sizing system based on numbers 1-8 and pretty much everyone but Miller Falls went along with it. Basic functional groupings: 1-4 smoothing planes 5-6 fore planes 7-8 try (jointer) planes The half sizes are where arguments live. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Jan 30, 2018 |
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Jan 30, 2018 20:23
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I thought this was the stupid question thread for a minute and was horribly confused.
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Jan 30, 2018 20:28
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For functional purposes the size 1 and 2 planes might as well not exist once the block plane was invented.
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Jan 30, 2018 20:29
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ColdPie posted:Nice haul! What's the center plane between the 4 and the 5? And the grey thing above them? Just realized you might have meant the grey thing above the framing square: that's a Craftsman Universal Jig. It slots into the table saw and has a bunch of adjustments and honestly I'm not 100% sure what it's for, but it was like $2 so I figured it'd be useful. A little googling shows some uses:  looks like I'm missing the bolt-in clamps it should come with. I can probably make or rig something though. e. Yeah this is obsolete and parts aren't available. Complete ones on ebay for around $25. But I bet I can just slice a cheap C-clamp in half and weld it at the right angle to a baseplate with some universal thread welded to the other side and basically spend multiple hours to avoid just buying a complete one in a fun metalworking project! Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Jan 30, 2018 |
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Jan 30, 2018 20:31
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Finally finished my last Christmas present. I think this is the first frame I've made where the miters closed up correctly. Miter sleds work! (Though my first one turned out to be on a non-flat piece of plywood, so I had to remake it) I hadn't intended to make two but when attempting to make the big one I cut the short sides out of the long pieces, so now I also get to have a frame. I did in fact use a box from arttoframes to make the cardboard backing.  I like how the splines turned out once I cut the back bevels.  Crimp on ring terminals turned out to be the cleanest way I could figure to attach the wire. 
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Jan 30, 2018 22:36
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You may want to substitute acid-free backings instead of brown cardboard, as brown cardboard's acid will gradually deteriorate whatever paper artwork you put against it. But otherwise those look super nice!
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Jan 31, 2018 02:08
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I have got as far as I think I can with the new staircase design, if you fancy some constructive feedback please go buck wild on https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3847934
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Jan 31, 2018 03:45
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swampface posted:
I like the looks of that, but is that just an L-shaped piece of wood? It doesn't look like it has much strength the way the endgrain is facing.
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Jan 31, 2018 14:56
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jailbait#3 posted:I like the looks of that, but is that just an L-shaped piece of wood? It doesn't look like it has much strength the way the endgrain is facing. It's a frame, the only weight it has to support is the art piece you put in it. The splines in the corners will provide plenty of strength. It looks great by the way. Nice work!
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Jan 31, 2018 16:49
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jailbait#3 posted:I like the looks of that, but is that just an L-shaped piece of wood? It doesn't look like it has much strength the way the endgrain is facing. That's a spline cut diagonally across the miter, and then revealed with a beveled cut on the frame. It only looks like end grain because of the way the bevel goes through it.
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Jan 31, 2018 17:43
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Leperflesh posted:You may want to substitute acid-free backings instead of brown cardboard, as brown cardboard's acid will gradually deteriorate whatever paper artwork you put against it. But otherwise those look super nice! Good idea. I've never actually looked into what is actually supposed to be in a frame. Looks like the usual stack is foamcore->acid free backing paper->art->glass. Probably a good idea to pick up some of both the paper and some foamcoare for random frame projects. One Legged Ninja posted:That's a spline cut diagonally across the miter, and then revealed with a beveled cut on the frame. It only looks like end grain because of the way the bevel goes through it. It's this. The splines are nearly an inch and a half wide, so it should be plenty strong! They look way fatter cut on the diagonal than the 1/8" they are, that's for sure.
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Jan 31, 2018 17:58
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Woodworking related video so I am putting here, how to build a log house the traditional way (in finland). It's an older video I've seen before, this is a new version and in english. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HNTfLGt59qo
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Jan 31, 2018 19:08
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I'm new around here and I don't want to post in the wrong thread, so is this thread the right place to talk about hand-carving wood or is there another thread for that? I couldn't find one or anyone in the first few pages talking about it so I don't know.
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Feb 2, 2018 22:24
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yeah I eat rear end posted:I'm new around here and I don't want to post in the wrong thread, so is this thread the right place to talk about hand-carving wood or is there another thread for that? I couldn't find one or anyone in the first few pages talking about it so I don't know. This is the closest thread to my knowledge, but it historically hasn't been a major topic here, so please post and change that!
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Feb 2, 2018 22:51
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