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bobua posted:I know this isn't a for-sale section, but I've got a worksharp 3000, stand, extra glass plates and discs I'm going to sell locally for cheap, and I know i've seen a few dallas area goons on this very thread, so I'd be happy to sell it to them even cheaper. This isn't personal but I think there's site-wide rules against selling things outside of SA Mart, but I'm too sick right now to go look them up. In future probably best to put a thread in there as normal and link to it from here.
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Mar 4, 2020 20:54
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Sorry I should have given more detail. I flatten it on my CNC using a 1" surfacing bit. So I'm not using the 80 grit for any kind of flattening. But the CNC still leaves lots of tool marks and sometimes some burning as its hard to dial in perfect feeds and speeds when the wood type changes every cube. A drumsander would be ideal, but that's an even bigger investment. Currently, I go through 2 80 grit discs, 1 per side basically. I do use one of those rubber blocks to declog them, but they eventually wear down anyways. Then I do a 120, 220, and 320 pass on all sides. I've tried starting with 40 grit, but the scratches that leaves are worse than the router bit/burning to get rid of. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Nice cutting board! Thanks! I use these ones from Lee Valley so not sure the actual brand. I'm not super unhappy with my process cause even going through 2 pads is only $2, I was just curious if others had tried those carbide discs. keep it down up there! fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Mar 4, 2020 |
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Mar 4, 2020 21:46
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keep it down up there! posted:In making these boards Im chewing through a lot of 80 grit sanding discs. Has anyone tried these carbide ones? I bought a 120 grit disc last June based on the stumpy recommendation, and the disc surface was uneven, and I could never fix it. There was a grain of carbide higher than the others which scratched the poo poo out of the first thing I sanded. I popped that grain off with a chisel. I read this is a common manufacturing defect for the discs. The rest of the disc was just uneven enough that it scratched the poo poo our of everything. I tried to "brush" it with regular sandpaper to try to soften the surface, which kind of ruined the disc. Now it doesn't sand as aggressively as 120 grit, and yet the surface doesn't end up as smooth as 120 grit. I'm annoyed at myself for wasting money on it. If I was buying it for a coarser grit to just hog off material maybe it would be a good purchase. Edit: looks like they don't even sell it in 120 grit any more, and the finest they sell is 80 grit. I wonder if they had too many complaints about the 120 grit. Graniteman fucked around with this message at 02:33 on Mar 5, 2020 |
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Mar 5, 2020 02:28
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Jaded Burnout posted:This isn't personal but I think there's site-wide rules against selling things outside of SA Mart, but I'm too sick right now to go look them up. In future probably best to put a thread in there as normal and link to it from here. roger
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Mar 5, 2020 03:01
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Graniteman posted:I bought a 120 grit disc last June based on the stumpy recommendation... Thanks for the review, seems like I should just stick with normal pads and either look for higher quality ones or upgrade my sander.
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Mar 5, 2020 19:56
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The thing that shall spawneth the rest of things has been completed. Well, beyond some finishing touches...   It is nicely mobile, and sturdy as heck. The levelers are there in case I absolutely need a 100% level surface. With wheels down it sits about level (but not perfectly) with the table saw surface, but will be easily shimmed (or by use of the levelers) to a nice 1/16-1/8 below the saw. The miter relief slot still need routed, but I will do that after the next project: crosscut sled. The plan is to put another brace in the lower section and add a 3/4 platform there to store a few of the power tools. One downside I found right off, is that the wheels are a small diameter that are not happy with the least amount of sawdust when moving the table. Guess I have to be better about house cleaning in between.
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Mar 6, 2020 17:28
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I've been going through Steve Ramsey's Weekend Workshop course, and man, it's been super nice. I have most of one side of my basement, which ends up being ~9ft x ~18ft. Dropdown work center with storage (I'll get the sanding stuff out of there soon)   Drill/driver cabinet, where my router may end up living when it's not in the table:  Shop in mostly "put away" mode a few weeks ago, the floor has been cleaned up and those godawful 2x4/OSB shelves are gone  Lumber cart for cutoffs/ sheet goods:  "Handi-cart" for rolling around the shop and giving me a place to put poo poo temporarily (push block, riving knife when the dado set is in, blade wrench):  Lumber rack mounted to wall (the wall isn't plumb because the house is 114 years old and the floor isn't anything close to flat) and lumber cart loaded up, where the lovely shelves were  Next things on the docket are a miter saw station with folding wings and t-track in the fences, a cabinet like the drill one for sanding supplies, french cleat hangers for hand tools, and some small carts for shop vac/cyclone, router table, and maybe a flip top cart for the 10" bandsaw and stationary sanders.
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Mar 6, 2020 18:41
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Don’t put fences on your miter station. The fences on your saw should be the source of truth. Put t track in the wings instead.
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Mar 6, 2020 18:43
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Sockser posted:Don’t put fences on your miter station. The fences on your saw should be the source of truth. Put t track in the wings instead. I'm considering this too. I was going to make the fences adjustable, and since they're folding wings, removing the fences wouldn't give me the space back. Any other reasons the fences are a bad idea?
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Mar 6, 2020 18:55
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I desire a miter saw station with or without wings. I personally would only care about a fence if lumber was always straight (and I remained lacking a jointer). That said a fence would be ok for stop block clamps. But yeah a t track would do just as well.
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Mar 6, 2020 19:37
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keep it down up there! posted:Been making a lot of pixel cutting boards lately after one of mine was featured on AGDQ. I never thought I'd be making a wooden Kenny from South Park, but who am I to argue with a commission. Oh man, now I want a poop emoji cutting board.
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Mar 6, 2020 21:30
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more falafel please posted:I'm considering this too. I was going to make the fences adjustable, and since they're folding wings, removing the fences wouldn't give me the space back. Any other reasons the fences are a bad idea? After doing a little research including the Wood Whisperer video, I'm now heavily leaning to no fence.
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Mar 6, 2020 21:49
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 So I got some black walnut logs for a decent price, and am making some bowls. I have not done a ton of lathe work, but did some stuff with cherry before. This walnut is way harder to work with. It is because the wood is still so wet, and I just need to let it dry a bit? The plan is get rough bowl shapes like this, let dry in a paper bag for 6 months, then finish making the bowls. I am told that is the proper way to do things. p.s. When I say wet, water occasionally drips out of it. It sat out in Seattle rain for almost 2 months.
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Mar 8, 2020 21:08
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Trying to get my dewalt 12.5" planer in working order after a couple years. mood: frustrated edit: cleaned, waxed, and now a pleasure. (the planer, not my dad bod) Hasselblad fucked around with this message at 23:12 on Mar 8, 2020 |
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Mar 8, 2020 21:13
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DevNull posted:
Wet wood is easier to work, plus added bonus of cooling lubrication. Could just be a hard log. It'll likely check while drying, so
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Mar 8, 2020 21:34
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DevNull posted:
Idk anything about bowls, but for spindle work at least cherry does turn a little cleaner/easier than walnut. Diffuse porous, close grained woods (which have a more even texture) like cherry/maple usually are easier to turn than ring porous, open grained woods (like oak or to some extent walnut). The changing density between parts of the growth rings makes them tricky to turn and more prone to tear out, especially if scraping. Pine/softwoods usually have the same problem but even worse.
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Mar 8, 2020 23:17
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DevNull posted:
How sharp is your gouge? Tear out like that usually indicates dull blade or scraping rather than shearing. If you are keeping the blade sharp (touch up on the grinder as your working the bowl) then change up your angle of approach, you will see the shavings change from powder to tiny ribbons. Edit. Wet wood will want to tear more too, just rough it to shape and when it dries you can clean up the tear out. JEEVES420 fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Mar 9, 2020 |
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Mar 9, 2020 00:18
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JEEVES420 posted:How sharp is your gouge? Tear out like that usually indicates dull blade or scraping rather than shearing. If you are keeping the blade sharp (touch up on the grinder as your working the bowl) then change up your angle of approach, you will see the shavings change from powder to tiny ribbons. It is a brand new carbide tip, so it must be the water.
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Mar 9, 2020 00:33
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This guy's turning fresh and wet wood https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lfaWWJADZKE
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Mar 9, 2020 05:18
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^^Every time I see people do ribbons like that I just want to throw my chisels away. Just amazing.DevNull posted:It is a brand new carbide tip, so it must be the water. Carbide cutters are scrapers. Are you using a finisher or squared off one? I have had better luck using the corner of a straight edge tip to hollow out then switch to a rounded finisher to shape the bottom.
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Mar 9, 2020 05:47
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His Divine Shadow posted:This guy's turning fresh and wet wood That last gouge he used to cut out inside deep is like a scorp. Wild tool. It's been wayyy long time since I had a lathe, but I don't recall seeing/using one of those. Maybe I'm just out of the loop 
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Mar 9, 2020 17:11
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He's doing an old school type of turning where you angle the cutting edges to get a cutting / shearing action instead of a scraping one, and running at slower speeds than most modern lathes can. It was developed before motorized lathes. Quite possibly those tools he is using are old carbon steel ones, or custom made by a black smith. This kind of turning also says to not just grind, but also hone the tools. You'll find tools like that in older books, I have one before me and there are several hook type tools in it. Edit: Here's another video with a guy using shear turning, in swedish but there are auto generated captions that sorta decent. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRwMspxjEyc His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 12:31 on Mar 10, 2020 |
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Mar 10, 2020 05:44
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Crossposting from the tools thread.Jaded Burnout posted:y'all have any preferences on ducting for chip removal?
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Mar 10, 2020 16:45
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Built my wife a quick planting table. 2'x5'x3' high. Planed 2x4s, carefully crosscut everything, assembled it, aaaaand wobbles 1/4" from opposite corners. 
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Mar 10, 2020 20:05
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Hasselblad posted:Built my wife a quick planting table. 2'x5'x3' high. The best part of living in a house that is over 100 years old is that I can just blame the floor.
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Mar 10, 2020 20:09
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DevNull posted:The best part of living in a house that is over 100 years old is that I can just blame the floor. 46y old house with foundation work done. Not a level floor in this place. Rubber feet and self levelers are your best friend. Shims in the garage if you want flat benches 
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Mar 10, 2020 20:36
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DevNull posted:The best part of living in a house that is over 100 years old is that I can just blame the floor. If I put something on my basement floor (house was built in 1906) and it *doesn't* wobble, I hosed up.
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Mar 10, 2020 20:49
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DevNull posted:The best part of living in a house that is over 100 years old is that I can just blame the floor. Lesson learned: start with the legs and then built from them. I took the planed 2x4s and went with 3/4” birch ply instead for the top. The short time between cutting, planing, and assembling saw enough warp to throw everything off. I hate my choice of suppliers here. JEEVES420 posted:46y old house with foundation work done. Not a level floor in this place. I would have used levelers if it wasn't using casters. If it were as heavy as my recent off feed table, it would level itself. Unfortunately her table is only 2’x5’, so very easily wobbled and too light to “settle”. Hasselblad fucked around with this message at 16:41 on Mar 11, 2020 |
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Mar 11, 2020 16:38
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Hasselblad posted:Lesson learned: start with the legs and then built from them. I took the planed 2x4s and went with 3/4” birch ply instead for the top. The short time between cutting, planing, and assembling saw enough warp to throw everything off. I hate my choice of suppliers here. You could shim thin plywood bits between the casters and the legs. But, my vote is to COMMENCE WHITTLING!
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Mar 11, 2020 17:38
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Mr. Mambold posted:You could shim thin plywood bits between the casters and the legs. But, my vote is to COMMENCE WHITTLING! Nah, I simply disassembled the entire thing then slowly rebuilt it from the legs on up. The 2x4 top surface was the culprit. The 3/4" ply on top is solid as heck. Wanted to try the 2x4 top thing as a test run for when I get around to my proper wall-mounted work bench. Dry wood would have been nice, as would a jointer.
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Mar 11, 2020 22:12
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Finally moving stuff around in my garage and setting up a proper shop space and I have no idea where to put my jointer except just in the middle of everything I just can't figure out where to put the dang thing and still have good clearance on either end of it
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Mar 11, 2020 23:31
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Sockser posted:Finally moving stuff around in my garage and setting up a proper shop space and I have no idea where to put my jointer except just in the middle of everything I'm looking down the barrel of having to run 4m boards through mine and wondering the best way to arrange for an uninterrupted 9m space.
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Mar 11, 2020 23:34
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Jaded Burnout posted:I'm looking down the barrel of having to run 4m boards through mine Holy smokes. What're you making?
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Mar 11, 2020 23:45
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ColdPie posted:Holy smokes. What're you making? Stairs.
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Mar 11, 2020 23:49
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Hey gang. Lets say you are making a flower/planter box out of cedar, yada yada... And you want (what I believe they refer to as a cap) finished lip edge on it. (and you want to 45degree miter the corners to join on this cap edge. How do you measure out? I'm going to grab some 1x3 clear cedar and I need to know where to cut. For reference (I just put this together today...)  [edit]One thought is I could buy extra wood by a few inches every direction and lay it out how I'd cut it and then make dots where they cross on the interior and then cut 45 degree miters OUTWARD from those dots. A little wasteful and slapdash. Any other techniques? Feenix fucked around with this message at 00:22 on Mar 12, 2020 |
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Mar 12, 2020 00:11
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Sockser posted:Finally moving stuff around in my garage and setting up a proper shop space and I have no idea where to put my jointer except just in the middle of everything Bandsaw and jointer right next to each other has worked well for me. Since I do most of my ripping on the bandsaw, everything is going back and forth between the two and both need the same amount of in/outfeed. It works well because the left side of the bandsaw is kind of dead and so is the back of the jointer. That setup doesn’t work as well if you rip with a tablesaw because you really need access to both sides of the saw. I now have the back of the jointer against the side of the planer (both a few steps to the left of the bandsaw) and that feels pretty efficient and lets them both use the same dust collection. Jaded Burnout posted:I'm looking down the barrel of having to run 4m boards through mine and wondering the best way to arrange for an uninterrupted 9m space. 
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Mar 12, 2020 00:13
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Feenix posted:Hey gang. Lets say you are making a flower/planter box out of cedar, yada yada... And you want (what I believe they refer to as a cap) finished lip edge on it. (and you want to 45degree miter the corners to join on this cap edge. I wouldn't bother worrying about overlapping the miters of two faces. Just measure from corner to corner to determine the length of each board, sum that up, get that much wood. If you do end up with extra, hey, free wood! Plus it gives you a safety net for any mistakes. Better to spend an extra $10 or whatever on an unnecessary board than it is to take an extra trip to the lumberyard.
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Mar 12, 2020 00:27
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I wouldn't bother worrying about overlapping the miters of two faces. Just measure from corner to corner to determine the length of each board, sum that up, get that much wood. If you do end up with extra, hey, free wood! Plus it gives you a safety net for any mistakes. Better to spend an extra $10 or whatever on an unnecessary board than it is to take an extra trip to the lumberyard. Oh Im not talking about measuring so I buy the right amount. I'm talking about measuring so that based on how much "lip" I want as an overhang, I know how far from proudest point to proudest point a board needs to be. Because if you look top down on my box and follow the 45 degree line, it keeps moving out as you make a lip, thus making it longer than the box. Right? Am I explaining that right?
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Mar 12, 2020 00:30
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I’m looking into making a hexagon box and I was wondering, if I have to make the joints on endgrain, what would be the best way to make the connection (especially if there’s not a bottom to attach to)? Is that angle steep enough to make glue alone viable?
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Mar 12, 2020 00:35
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Feenix posted:Oh Im not talking about measuring so I buy the right amount. I'm talking about measuring so that based on how much "lip" I want as an overhang, I know how far from proudest point to proudest point a board needs to be. Oh, I think I see. Well, the miters are 45 degrees, which means that for every inch out from the wall that you want the lip to extend, you need an extra inch of length on each end of the board. So if you want a 1" overhang then your board needs to be 2" longer.
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Mar 12, 2020 00:43
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