|
GEMorris posted:this should really be in the op Do any of you do this for larger pieces, like credenzas or other cabinetry? I'd like to do some furniture projects for my wife, but I'm really sick of working with plywood. Is that gonna be a killer without a thicknesser?
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2021 03:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 4, 2024 04:09 |
|
|
CommonShore posted:No I should get some next time I snag some tools. But I really doubt that a scraper could solve this tearout though - we're taking really big gouges and rips that have me thinking about gluing it back together. I'm willing to patiently sand for long periods and the tears that I get in this ash when the plane hits it the wrong way give me the heebie jeebies. GEMorris posted:this should really be in the op Baronash posted:Do any of you do this for larger pieces, like credenzas or other cabinetry? I'd like to do some furniture projects for my wife, but I'm really sick of working with plywood. Is that gonna be a killer without a thicknesser? https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3951406
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2021 03:09
|
|
|
Baronash posted:Do any of you do this for larger pieces, like credenzas or other cabinetry? I'd like to do some furniture projects for my wife, but I'm really sick of working with plywood. Is that gonna be a killer without a thicknesser? Personally I use that process to *flatten* one side of a board and then send them through my thicknesser/planer. A planer is the second power tool I'd personally buy, after either a bandsaw or a track saw. That said, you certainly can do it that way, ColdPie does, its just a lot of physical effort. I definitely hand plane again at the smoothing stage, but raw thicknessing is just too much sweat for me.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2021 03:44
|
|
|
Bloody posted:ripping stock by hand is not fun my goodness. I had a 22" rip cut to do in some 2" maple and it took forever to get a shoddy board that needed another forever of planing to get the cut face cleaned up. I wonder if I can fit a tiny band saw in my shed because I don't wanna do that again You get a lot faster after only a few rips. Helps to sharpen up and have a bigass saw tho
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2021 04:24
|
|
|
GEMorris posted:Personally I use that process to *flatten* one side of a board and then send them through my thicknesser/planer. A planer is the second power tool I'd personally buy, after either a bandsaw or a track saw. I’d much prefer to have a planer, but they’re not common at the dirt cheap end of the used market, at least where I live, so I’ve been avoiding hardwood projects.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2021 04:41
|
|
|
I just finished a minor tool repositioning. I think I've maxed out all of the positioning/configuration gains to be had in the space, feeling really good about it for once. If this comes off as some horrible vanity post please drag me for it. The garage is 19'8" wide and I dunno how deep but I have about 8'6" on the one half you mostly see here, because my car (miata) is short enough to afford me that room. If I ever want a different car it's gotta be a miata or an i3 or my shop situation gets way way worse. On the other half I can only claim about 6' as my wife drives a v60. It is home to a heated vacuum press, on which I'm currently storing my lathe as it has no good home. Primarily that side of the shop is outfeed for the bandsaw and infeed for the planer. Not counting the outfeed/infeed space, the dedicated woodworking space is 8'6" x 10' (but obv those infeed/outfeed areas are needed when they are needed). The thing I'm happiest about is that I dont have to move tools other than the lathe, (which I'm questioning keeping) and very occasionally I have to drag the planer out of the way if I'm cutting angles on the bandsaw.   
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2021 04:55
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Is your plane sharp? taking a relatively fine shaving? Chipbreaker up close near the edge? Ash is usually a pretty pleasant wood to work by hand unless it's curly ime. Are you sure you're planing with the grain (which doesn't always follow the growth rings)? Sometimes you have to change directions to keep going with the grain. The plane is sharp, I'm taking small shavings, and the chipbreaker is about 1 to 2 mm from the edge of the blade. I'm planing along the visible grain. I've found that the tearout depends on the particular piece. Here's the thing. I've noticed it depends on the edge grain: >Plane> /////////// >Plane> \\\\\\\\\\\\ If I do the first one, it's fine, if I do the second one it's a tear out. The problem is that with these big slabs sometimes this poo poo changes direction on me because they were cut from a gigantic knobbly tree. I've just gotten to the point where I don't even want to risk it anymore.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2021 04:58
|
|
|
You need to either put a 10° back bevel on your plane blade, or use a card scraper. Higher angle of attack is your most likely answer.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2021 05:08
|
|
|
CommonShore posted:The plane is sharp, I'm taking small shavings, and the chipbreaker is about 1 to 2 mm from the edge of the blade. I'm planing along the visible grain. I've found that the tearout depends on the particular piece. Here's the thing. I've noticed it depends on the edge grain: The edge is where you read the grain. Grain changes direction (especially around knots) and you have to change planing directions to keep going with the grain. You should plane from the opposite direction in the second example and you won’t have tearout. >plane> //////// Or <plane< \\\\\\\\\\ NOT >plane> \\\\\\\\\\\ Even sharper will help too. Get it flat and don’t worry too much about tearout, and then come back with a smoothing plane or scraper (or belt sander) and work the difficult grain until the tearout goes away. GEMorris posted:I just finished a minor tool repositioning. I think I've maxed out all of the positioning/configuration gains to be had in the space, feeling really good about it for once. If this comes off as some horrible vanity post please drag me for it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2021 05:12
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:
You can see a few systainers under the bench, there are also a few power tool cases under the laser cutter (atop which the MFT is located) as well as a few rarely used tools up in the upper shelves (10' ceilings #blessed) and a few hanging out in the back corner there. There are some panel saws and hammers on the walls, the rest of the tools are in that black box, more here: https://twitter.com/gemorris/status/1335293074969407490?s=20
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2021 05:22
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Considering the cost of a 24" replacement helix head is a pretty reasonable percentage of the price of a new 24" planer, I don't think it happens as much at that scale. If a 30yr old 24" planer is worth $5-8k, are you gonna drop $3k on a helix head for it? Plus if you're a big shop with a 24" planer, you probably are running everything through a wide belt sander too and aren't quite as worried about surface finish as a guy who has to sand everything with small power tools. I'd bet some shops keep the old head around as a backup too. He's looking at an old machine and wondering if it's worth buying, an old german planer (or jointer, maybe a combo) but the cutterhead is so old it's one of those unsafe designs. This guy doesn't think like you or I do, he's starting (already started) up a business without taking any loans (refuse to take loans) while on unemployment and rehabilitation. So he's looking at spending a few hundred on the machine and maybe as much on a planer head, if one could be sourced, if it can't I believe he will not buy it. He already has a 600mm combo machine he rebuilt. This is the same guy: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=1&threadid=2819334&pagenumber=326&perpage=40#post459928973
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2021 05:37
|
|
|
Baronash posted:Do any of you do this for larger pieces, like credenzas or other cabinetry? I'd like to do some furniture projects for my wife, but I'm really sick of working with plywood. Is that gonna be a killer without a thicknesser? Yeah I do this. The largest piece I've built was a 7'x3.5' dining table in 6/4 cherry, all with hand tools (project write-up 1, write-up 2). I've also built other projects mostly ranging from 4-6'. It is absolutely a shitload of work, and will take a shitload of time, and requires a shitload of practice and learning. You will spend whole days doing nothing but planing boards. But I really do enjoy it. I sit at a computer all day for my job, so having a brainless physical task I can go toil away at is a huge plus. There's a ton of learning and skill refinement, which gives you a cool sense of personal progress. Going all hand-tool has some other advantages: it's cheaper, quieter, safer, and takes up way less space. And there's some romanticism in using the same tools and techniques that were used for hundreds of years before the industrial revolution. But I see you're already comfortable with machines, so that's probably less meaningful to you. The analogy I like is that it's like jogging. The process itself has to be the goal. If your goal is to just get to the store and buy groceries, then just take the car, man. ColdPie fucked around with this message at 14:43 on Jan 19, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2021 14:40
|
|
|
GEMorris posted:I just finished a minor tool repositioning. I think I've maxed out all of the positioning/configuration gains to be had in the space, feeling really good about it for once. If this comes off as some horrible vanity post please drag me for it. drat, I need to clean up my poo poo
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2021 15:19
|
|
|
GEMorris posted:I just finished a minor tool repositioning. I think I've maxed out all of the positioning/configuration gains to be had in the space, feeling really good about it for once. If this comes off as some horrible vanity post please drag me for it. I love shop photos, never get sick of them. The little cat carrier in the middle of everything placed "just so" is cracking me up, though. Is your MFT table bought or made? If made (and I assume it is), how did you make it? I just finished making my own movable workbench and made the top MDF and was strongly considering making at least a portion of it into an MFT. I've seen the UJK jigs and they're incredible, but also $$. Also considering using https://www.woodcraft.com/products/...BSABEgJpavD_BwE, but it would involve figuring out whether to double up the MDF, or using the rail and drilling 3/4" into it to make enough room for the bolts. Also may use just t-track with clamps for those, but I don't know if they'd be strong enough?
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2021 15:27
|
|
|
Somebody purchasing one of my benches has asked for the family name engraved in the side. I've never carved wood before, what's a good option here? I've got a Dremel, could I use a stencil to carve out the design?
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2021 16:03
|
|
|
Shelvocke posted:I've never carved wood before, what's a good option here? I've got a Dremel, could I use a stencil to carve out the design? I present to you my test block. Stencil + Dremel does indeed work to make letters! 
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2021 16:11
|
|
|
art
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2021 16:57
|
|
|
SouthShoreSamurai posted:
https://twitter.com/gemorris/status/1345572741055983619?s=20 I went with a MFT-like because I wanted to be able to use the MFT ecosystem of accessories like parfdogs and ujk clips. This post won't be helpful if you don't have a laser cutter to make the template with, sorry.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2021 18:27
|
|
|
I don't, but that's still really cool. I've seen the sacrificial mft used for tracksaws before, but never where it only went down a tiny bit. Hadn't thought of doing that. Always just assumed I'd secure the entire top and then cut all the way through. Your use for it (perfect angles only using dogs, easy cross cuts, etc) is what I'm envisioning for mine.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2021 19:36
|
|
|
His Divine Shadow posted:He's looking at an old machine and wondering if it's worth buying, an old german planer (or jointer, maybe a combo) but the cutterhead is so old it's one of those unsafe designs. Wow that saw is nuts! What kind of planer is it? There's some chance someone makes a disposable knife system for it, depending on how common/ancient it is. They usually use the same gibs and stuff though, so depending on how exactly it is unsafe, that may not help. I don't know if there is a european equivalent to http://www.owwm.org/ but they've been really helpful with finding info/parts for my big ole mortiser and lathe. Shelvocke posted:Somebody purchasing one of my benches has asked for the family name engraved in the side. https://www.rockler.com/rockler-int...ea5ef5553296f7c
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2021 19:44
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Wow that saw is nuts! What kind of planer is it? There's some chance someone makes a disposable knife system for it, depending on how common/ancient it is. They usually use the same gibs and stuff though, so depending on how exactly it is unsafe, that may not help. I don't know if there is a european equivalent to http://www.owwm.org/ but they've been really helpful with finding info/parts for my big ole mortiser and lathe. imo router templates are the #1 intersection between woodworking and 3d printing.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2021 19:55
|
|
|
Rutibex posted:I present to you my test block. Stencil + Dremel does indeed work to make letters! Do you have a link to the kind of stencil that you used? I've been thinking about doing some lettering like this for a few projects that I have in mind.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2021 20:17
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:There are template lettering kits you can get for a router that will do it too, but they usually looks kind of blocky. You can drastically change the look with V bits or contoured bits.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2021 22:20
|
|
|
if I cut myself on a chisel and release an astonishing amount of blood with no pain, does that mean my chisels are sharp unrelatedly, how do I fix shoddy cuts? I cut a mortise for a bridle joint with a backsaw and it came out narrow, out of square, and generally messy - I understand why these things happen, I haven't used handsaws a lot, I know how to get better at this, it will take practice - but I don't really know how to fix the resulting bad mortise. I tried cleaning it up with a chisel and a rasp and the tenon at least fits now but it looks like hell and has visible gaps and wonkiness. I don't expect to be able to cut perfect mortises or tenons right out of the gate, but I don't really know how to take a bad one and turn it into something usable.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2021 00:29
|
|
|
Bloody posted:if I cut myself on a chisel and release an astonishing amount of blood with no pain, does that mean my chisels are sharp How big of a gap? You would be surprised how well some sawdust and wood glue hides imperfections. This is pretty good for common quick fixes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9SAXVTnMEEM
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2021 01:31
|
|
|
Bloody posted:if I cut myself on a chisel and release an astonishing amount of blood with no pain, does that mean my chisels are sharp
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2021 02:59
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Having some veneer (or other very thin scraps of wood) around the shop is great for this stuff . Glue some onto the tenon to give more meat on a too small tenon. You can repair a hosed up mortise by filling it and remortising- make a tenon to fit the sloppy mortise and glue it in, and then re-cut the mortise. If the repair tenon isn't a super great fit, epoxy is better than yellow glue as it fills gaps well. Sometimes if a shoulder of a tenon is screwed up, you can glue veneer to the face of the piece with the mortise to give a little room to futz with. If you don't have any veneer, brown paper works okay with lots of glue, but it's not as good as wood/wood. There isn't much you can't fix. The best part about making my little model boats with wood. If I totally screw something up (which happens way too often) I just grab a new piece of wood and do it again, or add wood and sand it back, etc.. Nothing like if you mess up some stupid little plastic part that you can't replace.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2021 05:30
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Wow that saw is nuts! What kind of planer is it? There's some chance someone makes a disposable knife system for it, depending on how common/ancient it is. They usually use the same gibs and stuff though, so depending on how exactly it is unsafe, that may not help. I don't know if there is a european equivalent to http://www.owwm.org/ but they've been really helpful with finding info/parts for my big ole mortiser and lathe. What I thought was cool about that saw was it was made in 1887, but had a riving knife. The planer is a Dornburg, which is an obsolete brand, it has a cutter but it's worn and of the clam-shell type which he considers unsafe.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2021 06:12
|
|
|
I had a go at doing some test carving, and I think I'm just to come clean and say that if I do it myself it's going to look poo poo, and ruin the overall look of the bench, unless I spend the next few weeks practising specifically (and even then it'll probably be lowering the quality of the finished product significantly.) I'm not usually one to give up but I don't feel particularly bad about this one.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2021 15:21
|
|
|
The Locator posted:The best part about making my little model boats with wood. If I totally screw something up (which happens way too often) I just grab a new piece of wood and do it again, or add wood and sand it back, etc.. Nothing like if you mess up some stupid little plastic part that you can't replace. As someone who has spent a lifetime modeling/painting little plastic men you can absolutely repair/replace plastic parts  That was how I got in to 2 part resin casting to begin with.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2021 15:53
|
|
|
Super glue and baking soda can fill a lot of gaps in plastic poo poo, or even plastic dust. Same theory as wood glue and sawdust.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2021 16:24
|
|
|
Uthor posted:Do you have a link to the kind of stencil that you used? I've been thinking about doing some lettering like this for a few projects that I have in mind. It was literally just a plastic thing with letters that came with a dollar store geometry set 
Rutibex fucked around with this message at 16:29 on Jan 20, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2021 16:27
|
|
|
Request for the new thread OP: A quick list of common tool brands that are reliable or junk proportional to their price point and some kind of buyer's guide with things like "don't bother buying an expensive ___" or "cheap ___ are bad avoid them spend the extra for a midrange one at least," at least for the most common tools. E.g. the backsaw I bought from Home Depot is a loving piece of poo poo.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2021 16:50
|
|
|
My personal take is that a new OP should be a collab effort. I think there is a lot of good expertise in the thread and making sure many of the different directions one can go with this hobby are captured in the OP would probably be a worthwhile effort.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2021 20:03
|
|
|
I think if folks want to do a new thread, a collaborative OP or OP that acts as an index to folks various effort posts on XYZ is a great idea. I can edit things into the current OP if that’s useful-the OP doesn’t seem to be around to mind.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2021 20:38
|
|
|
Rutibex posted:It was literally just a plastic thing with letters that came with a dollar store geometry set Found a tutorial on YouTube and it seems like it requires "care" and "patience" and a "steady hand". Dang it!
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2021 21:08
|
|
|
Shelvocke posted:I had a go at doing some test carving, and I think I'm just to come clean and say that if I do it myself it's going to look poo poo, and ruin the overall look of the bench, unless I spend the next few weeks practising specifically (and even then it'll probably be lowering the quality of the finished product significantly.) Instead of carving directly into the bench, maybe you could make a sort of plaque to affix to the bench. You could grab a nice piece of contrasting wood to carve into, even, and then maybe find a nice spot where it won't get in the way to attach it with brass screws. Maybe go around the edges with a router to put a bevel or something. That way if you gently caress up halfway through a word, you haven't ruined the bench, you've just ruined one scrap of wood? You could even do it in brass or something instead of wood. Or have something made that you attach.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2021 21:13
|
|
|
What trim router should I get? I mostly want to use it for quick flush trimming, edge profiles, and with some jigs, things like circle cutting and cutting dados. I was considering the Bosch Colt, but having it be corded seems like it would be a pain, since a trim router feels like a "bring the tool to the work" sort of tool, and I don't think I would use it for so long at a time that the battery life would be an issue. I could probably be convinced to get a corded one, though. The only battery ecosystem I'm on is Ryobi, but I'm probably reaching the point where I'm fine with getting on another one as well. I know Makita is pretty well thought of, and the cordless router itself isn't particularly expensive (although once I get batteries/charger it's significantly more).
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2021 21:34
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:Instead of carving directly into the bench, maybe you could make a sort of plaque to affix to the bench. You could grab a nice piece of contrasting wood to carve into, even, and then maybe find a nice spot where it won't get in the way to attach it with brass screws. Maybe go around the edges with a router to put a bevel or something. That way if you gently caress up halfway through a word, you haven't ruined the bench, you've just ruined one scrap of wood? Both good ideas. I floated a brass plaque by the client and she liked it but it was a little too "in loving memory..." I might look at the wooden one.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2021 21:50
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 4, 2024 04:09 |
|
|
more falafel please posted:What trim router should I get? I mostly want to use it for quick flush trimming, edge profiles, and with some jigs, things like circle cutting and cutting dados. I was considering the Bosch Colt, but having it be corded seems like it would be a pain, since a trim router feels like a "bring the tool to the work" sort of tool, and I don't think I would use it for so long at a time that the battery life would be an issue. I could probably be convinced to get a corded one, though. I have the colt and it is a very good router. And the cord is long as hell.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2021 21:52
|
|
