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alnilam posted:See this row of cabinets? Our first kitchen was laid out exactly like that, and it is definitely something you can tackle. Everything melon cat said + it looks like they might be painted to the other cabinets, so it would be good to (carefully) run a utility knife along that edge where they meet the cabinets you'll keep. We mounted ours in the garage for storage, then used the space it freed up over the kitchen peninsula to mount a hanging pot rack.
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Mar 7, 2021 00:14
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My dad gave me his 30-40 year old plug in electric drill/screwdriver. I am not very handy with tools, but every time I use the screwdriver bits, I completely strip the screws. Is it because all the screws of cheap pieces of poo poo? Or am I the piece of poo poo who doesn't know what he is doing? Should I get a battery operated drill that has less power? Is it the tool or the user? Or is the user a tool?
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Mar 7, 2021 00:34
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Fozzy The Bear posted:every time I use the screwdriver bits, I completely strip the screws. Is it because all the screws of cheap pieces of poo poo? Or am I the piece of poo poo who doesn't know what he is doing? Yes. Most screws are cheap poo poo that will cam out (slip and damage the screw head) if you don't know what you're doing. Common errors include not pre-drilling a pilot hole for the screw to fit into, not having the drill be perfectly lined up with the screw, not using the right size of bit to drive the screw, and not pressing hard enough on the screw as you drive it. Whenever you have the option though, I would highly recommend getting square (Robertson) or star (torx) head screws and corresponding bits instead. The head shape is vastly less prone to camout, and they're easily worth the price premium over Phillips screws.
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Mar 7, 2021 00:39
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alnilam posted:See this row of cabinets? Can't say I have any great ideas for the backsplash-maybe just cover it all with An Art? Depending on what's behind the cabinets/how the tile was done it may be a little tricky to patch the tile.
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Mar 7, 2021 00:49
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Fozzy The Bear posted:My dad gave me his 30-40 year old plug in electric drill/screwdriver. That 40 year old tool you have a is an electric drill, not a screw driver. While it spins like a drill, it's way too powerful and blows through screws. Get yourself a lower powered battery powered screwdriver (like a Ryobi One+ hand tool) for doing simple screws, and use that beast for when you need to bore a hole in wood or metal. Post a pic of that tool. I'd like to see it. I have a dream of buying one of the old steel plugin drills that looks like a block of metal that has handles that thread in and is just a beast, but I can't find them. Also, stand behind it and use your body weight to hold the screw bit into the screw, and don't sit in your butt, stay on your feet and work that way. Use your body mass and strong angles to keep the tool engaged.
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Mar 7, 2021 00:50
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Jerk McJerkface posted:That 40 year old tool you have a is an electric drill, not a screw driver. While it spins like a drill, it's way too powerful and blows through screws. Get yourself a lower powered battery powered screwdriver (like a Ryobi One+ hand tool) for doing simple screws, and use that beast for when you need to bore a hole in wood or metal. Post a pic of that tool. I'd like to see it. I have a dream of buying one of the old steel plugin drills that looks like a block of metal that has handles that thread in and is just a beast, but I can't find them. A modern impact driver is going to be way better for putting screws into things then a 30 year old drill. That's assuming you're putting screws into wood or similar things, and not disassembling plastic whatever.
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Mar 7, 2021 01:59
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Fozzy The Bear posted:My dad gave me his 30-40 year old plug in electric drill/screwdriver. Get an impact driver. Something like https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-20-Volt-Max-1-4-in-Variable-Speed-Brushless-Cordless-Impact-Driver-2-Batteries-Included/1001009086
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Mar 7, 2021 02:44
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Jerk McJerkface posted:That 40 year old tool you have a is an electric drill, not a screw driver. While it spins like a drill, it's way too powerful and blows through screws. Get yourself a lower powered battery powered screwdriver (like a Ryobi One+ hand tool) for doing simple screws, and use that beast for when you need to bore a hole in wood or metal. Post a pic of that tool. I'd like to see it. I have a dream of buying one of the old steel plugin drills that looks like a block of metal that has handles that thread in and is just a beast, but I can't find them.
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Mar 7, 2021 02:53
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alnilam posted:See this row of cabinets? If the grout is attached to the cabinets like it appears to be, an oscillating multi-tool would probably work better than a grinder. (Little too cramped for the grinder.) The existing edge trim looks like a variation on https://www.lowes.com/pd/Schluter-Systems-Rondec-0-375-in-W-x-98-5-in-L-Aluminum-Tile-Edge-Trim/3772497. Unless you find matching tile/want to do a lot of work--you won't be able to install the edge trim correctly. More than likely you'll have to figure out how to cut it cleanly and glue it.
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Mar 7, 2021 03:21
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Those are average to mid-grade custom cabinets from the '50s-early 60s. I have them in my kitchen. Solid wood everywhere, no pressboard. Solid-wood cabinets cost a fortune now. They are a single-block, and they are not as heavy as you may think since they're made from fairly thin sheets. I would remove the doors & shelves first, that'll cut the weight plus they won't be swinging and banging around when you're lowering the unit. As noted, they're screwed to framing above, but unless they've been detached & reset in the last thirty years, they'll be these big honkin' slotted wood screws. If you aren't reusing them, consider ReStore or at least a curb alert. It would be a shame to lose them. If you are gong to toss them, I would like dibs on the hinges and their screws. I'm running out of those hinges and those little weird-flush hinge screws are impossible to find.
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Mar 7, 2021 05:58
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Fun. We missed some sand in a water bottle or something yesterday and now all of the tracks in our dishwasher are gritty. Anything beyond the tracks, sprayer arms, and filter I should be trying to disassemble to? Really hoping it's not stuck in in motor/impeller. Any protips on getting the tracks off the side or cleaning them in place?
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Mar 7, 2021 19:53
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HycoCam posted:I tried to find a picture of the giant grey Craftsman addon for a power drill that 1st came out in the 80's, maybe even earlier. The chuck was a little thicker than a beer can, and a bit shorter--but they were the poo poo back then. Had a speed chuck to change out philips vs flat, but most important had the clutch function so it wouldn't tear the screw apart. I had a bunch of work done in my house by some contractors last fall, and they all used that same tool (or the Ryobi One+ equivilent) for all the screws they were putting in. I thought it was odd. I actually have two of them, but I didn't give them any thought, figuring they were just impact drivers for doing concrete work. I got them out and I was really impressed by how much better they do screws, specially in drywall.
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Mar 7, 2021 22:10
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I painted an "homage" of another artist (the name of whom I have forgotten) more than a decade ago and just rediscovered it during a move. Homage to Unknown Artist, acrylic on cardboard This thing is a honking 39"x 27.75" beast and I would really like to get it framed, however all my Googling shows a lot of cheap looking poster frames. Is there a go-to place for nice looking frames made from wood and glass instead of acrylic and plastic frames? I remember working hard on this and I love the bright colors, I feel it deserves to be shown rather than forgotten in a closet.
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Mar 7, 2021 22:45
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Professor Shark posted:I painted an "homage" of another artist (the name of whom I have forgotten) more than a decade ago and just rediscovered it during a move. I've had luck with Michael's and a coupon - don't go in there at MSRP it will cost you like $1000 to frame that. I think my most recent framing was like 70% off. We used to use Aaron Brothers. If you aren't happy with their selection you can go to a dedicated framing store, and it will against cost like $1000. If you have specific backing, glue process, and glass you want then you might just have to bite the bullet at a dedicated framing store.
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Mar 7, 2021 22:48
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Professor Shark posted:I painted an "homage" of another artist (the name of whom I have forgotten) more than a decade ago and just rediscovered it during a move. Big box places like Michaels have framing departments, and there are probably a bunch of dedicated framing stores around you. Just be ready to pay 
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Mar 7, 2021 22:48
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Framing ain't cheap Dirt cheap option that requires luck is buying lovely art at a thrift store for a buck and using the frame. Doubt you'll find something that big Cheapest option is a custom frame shop online Medium option is an art supply store. Michaels does frames, your local indy art supply store probably does too Expensive option is a specialty frame shop, there are almost some near you
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Mar 7, 2021 22:49
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HycoCam posted:Get an impact driver. Something like https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-20-Volt-Max-1-4-in-Variable-Speed-Brushless-Cordless-Impact-Driver-2-Batteries-Included/1001009086 Thanks, will put this on my wish list. Jerk McJerkface posted:That 40 year old tool you have a is an electric drill, not a screw driver. While it spins like a drill, it's way too powerful and blows through screws. Get yourself a lower powered battery powered screwdriver (like a Ryobi One+ hand tool) for doing simple screws, and use that beast for when you need to bore a hole in wood or metal. Post a pic of that tool. I'd like to see it. I have a dream of buying one of the old steel plugin drills that looks like a block of metal that has handles that thread in and is just a beast, but I can't find them. Looks like it is from the 90's, so I guess 30 years old?  Thanks for the help everyone.
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Mar 7, 2021 23:32
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Fozzy The Bear posted:Thanks, will put this on my wish list. Just wanted to say that dewalt cordless impact is extremely loud - I own one. It's too loud to use in an apartment for example. The dewalt cordless DRILL is actually a better fit: https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-20-Volt-Max-1-2-in-Brushless-Cordless-Drill-Charger-Included/1000135807 If you're going to be working outdoors or with big fasteners where you need the impact then it's great.
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Mar 7, 2021 23:34
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99% of what I do is drill holes/screw into 2x4's to hang art/mirrors in my house. Or build wooden raised garden beds/pergola. Stuff like that.
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Mar 7, 2021 23:45
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Lawnie posted:I’m going to be running cat-6 cable through the walls of my house. What kind of specs for the cable are important to shop for? I’m probably going to try to find a crimper to borrow so I’ll buy the cable in bulk. How is that switch going to hold up to the heat of summer? Anyway, you'll want riser rated cat6, the cheapest kind. You generally don't want to run any low voltage cables in parallel against line voltage cables. The reason is that it causes interference. Drill a second hole. Low voltage sharing holes is fine though. Old work low voltage rings are awesome for fishing wires in walls. They let you cut a hole in the wall big enough to reach your hand in, then a regular electrical face plate screws into the ring. For speakers, a 2 port keystone plate along with banana jacks work well. You may want to invest in a set of fiberglass wire fishing rods AKA fish sticks also. Fish sticks let you push as well as pull wire. Use electrical tape and tape a full foot of wire to the rod. Buy some extra rolls of tape if you have a lot of runs. You'll go through tape like candy.
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Mar 7, 2021 23:55
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kid sinister posted:How is that switch going to hold up to the heat of summer? Anyway, you'll want riser rated cat6, the cheapest kind. Max operating temperature for the switch i purchased is 104*F, what temperature should I expect my attic to be during the summer? High 90’s? Hotter? If that’s the case then I’ll just put the switch with the router in the living area and run from that. It’s just more ports in a plate.
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Mar 8, 2021 00:46
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Lawnie posted:Max operating temperature for the switch i purchased is 104*F, what temperature should I expect my attic to be during the summer? High 90’s? Hotter? If that’s the case then I’ll just put the switch with the router in the living area and run from that. It’s just more ports in a plate. My attic in california is probably 20+F hotter than ambient. Which could be as crispy as 120F ambient. Hoping to add a ridge vent to help with that when we redo the roof. If your summer heat is into the 90s you should expect premature failure of that device. Combined with the general dustyness of most attics you are either going to want an industrial scoped switch, or to put it somewhere that isn't your attic. Do you have a high ceiling in a close you could screw it to? It could literally be upside down on a piece of plywood on the ceiling somewhere in the conditioned space.
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Mar 8, 2021 01:57
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I bought an orbital sander and it came with three soft pads that stick to the velcro instead of being screwed in like the sandpaper. A white one, a twice as thick yellow, and one that's about an inch thick orange foam with nubs. What are they for?
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Mar 8, 2021 18:51
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Harold Fjord posted:I bought an orbital sander and it came with three soft pads that stick to the velcro instead of being screwed in like the sandpaper. A white one, a twice as thick yellow, and one that's about an inch thick orange foam with nubs. What are they for? Maybe for polishing?
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Mar 8, 2021 19:02
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So i've got a drippy faucet in the kitchen. I bought a rebuild kit from Home Depot, and have to shut the water off. I have PTSD from using the under-sink shutoff valves at another place I lived, the moment I touched them they immediately started leaking. Should I be brave and give them a try, or should I just shut the whole house off at the supply line (I've done this a few times)? Our plumbing is original 1950's galvanized pipe, the shut offs might be newer, but it's hard to tell. Edit: Took a photo of the shut offs. They definitely look newer than the pipe they're mounted on:  H110Hawk posted:I've had luck with Michael's and a coupon - don't go in there at MSRP it will cost you like $1000 to frame that. I think my most recent framing was like 70% off. We used to use Aaron Brothers. If you aren't happy with their selection you can go to a dedicated framing store, and it will against cost like $1000. If you have specific backing, glue process, and glass you want then you might just have to bite the bullet at a dedicated framing store. Why is framing stuff so expensive? Is it the materials? None of the components on their own seem that expensive, but whenever I get a quote to have someone do it for me I can't believe it. frogbs fucked around with this message at 19:50 on Mar 8, 2021 |
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Mar 8, 2021 19:43
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frogbs posted:Why is framing stuff so expensive? Is it the materials? None of the components on their own seem that expensive, but whenever I get a quote to have someone do it for me I can't believe it. It's labor intensive, high risk (if you make a mistake and destroy artwork), and it's VERY low volume. The frame store on the corner has bills to pay despite probably averaging 1 frame a day on a good day. At least, that's my guess.) frogbs posted:Our plumbing is original 1950's galvanized pipe, the shut offs might be newer, but it's hard to tell. You're on 20 years of borrowed time. You should be prepared to turn off at the curb even if you do not turn off at the curb. Those do look newer but they're not quarter turn. You could be snapping something behind the drywall regardless. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Mar 8, 2021 |
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Mar 8, 2021 19:49
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Lawnie posted:Max operating temperature for the switch i purchased is 104*F, what temperature should I expect my attic to be during the summer? High 90’s? Hotter? If that’s the case then I’ll just put the switch with the router in the living area and run from that. It’s just more ports in a plate. Yeah do that. It will be easier to access in the future as well. It gets hot enough in attics during the summer around here to melt candles. Hawk had a good suggestion. Expect your attic temps to be 20 degrees hotter than the outdoors temp.
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Mar 8, 2021 20:33
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Suggestions for cutting corrugated sheet metal? Only doing straight cuts. I have an oscillating tool and a circular saw.
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Mar 8, 2021 20:35
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Suggestions for cutting corrugated sheet metal? Only doing straight cuts. I have an oscillating tool and a circular saw. Tin snips. Metal cutting blade in your circular saw if you like noise and danger.
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Mar 8, 2021 20:42
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A really great and nice solo contractor just did a few grand of work at our new house and was awesome. Is it customary to tip a contractor? I have no idea. I did send him home with several loaves of homemade bread 
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Mar 8, 2021 21:47
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alnilam posted:A really great and nice solo contractor just did a few grand of work at our new house and was awesome. Is it customary to tip a contractor? I have no idea. If you paid their price without grinding them down on it that's sufficient. Bread is a great perk.
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Mar 8, 2021 21:49
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alnilam posted:A really great and nice solo contractor just did a few grand of work at our new house and was awesome. Is it customary to tip a contractor? I have no idea. Bread/beer/wine etc is great too and makes you stand out as a good client imo. Extra money maybe feels like ‘you don’t know how to price your own work,’ but also I don’t think anyone would complain. Don’t be surprised if they magically get more expensive next time.
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Mar 8, 2021 22:05
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To add. Ask for a stack of their cards so you can provide others their details. And leave reviews.
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Mar 8, 2021 22:06
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I am looking into buying a small air compressor for filling up tires and running an angle grinder. I keep seeing the gallon size of the tank and how many PSI it can provide. If I bought a small compressor and started buying electric tools instead of pneumatic would I be making a smart buy? I wonder if the electric / battery tools are better?
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Mar 9, 2021 03:56
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stinkypete posted:I am looking into buying a small air compressor for filling up tires and running an angle grinder. I keep seeing the gallon size of the tank and how many PSI it can provide. If I bought a small compressor and started buying electric tools instead of pneumatic would I be making a smart buy? Compressors are fantastic for filling tires, blowing air at things, and running nailers. Anything else you're better off with electric. What tools are you looking for other than an angle grinder?
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Mar 9, 2021 04:01
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stealie72 posted:Pneumatic tools have their place, but by asking this question, you (and i) are not someone who needs them. Automotive mainly, Pneumatic's were king 20 years ago from what I remember but I have been hearing electric is the way to go now. What brand is good for electric these days? I am still going to stay with jack stands and hydraulic jacks to raise my jeep while I get back into wrenching again. I am up to any advice. Thanks in Advance.
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Mar 9, 2021 04:11
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stinkypete posted:I am looking into buying a small air compressor for filling up tires and running an angle grinder. I keep seeing the gallon size of the tank and how many PSI it can provide. If I bought a small compressor and started buying electric tools instead of pneumatic would I be making a smart buy? You need to be comitted to a decent size tank if you wanna run air tools like a grinder or a metal nibbler, or impact wrench. You can get some good torque and use out of compressed air tools but you're going to need around a 20 gallon compressor rated at around 4cfm at ~80 psi to get any use out of it. 50 is probably a bit more realistic depending on how often you want it to run. Or as stealie said go electric, you can get some good lectric and battery powered impact wrenches and grinders etc without going air. Grab a pancake for running your trim nailer occasionally and to fill tires.
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Mar 9, 2021 04:16
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tater_salad posted:You need to be comitted to a decent size tank if you wanna run air tools like a grinder or a metal nibbler, or impact wrench. Thank you, that helps me with my decision. Edit: I did some painting and the Graco Magnum x5 was a pretty good airless sprayer. I just do not like masking and taping. Any masking and taping tips? stinkypete fucked around with this message at 04:37 on Mar 9, 2021 |
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Mar 9, 2021 04:21
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stinkypete posted:Automotive mainly, Pneumatic's were king 20 years ago 20 years ago we didn't have modern lithium ion batteries. The difference between those and your 30 year old makita nicd tool is life changing. You'll wonder how you ever got around with hoses and cords holding you back.
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Mar 9, 2021 04:33
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H110Hawk posted:20 years ago we didn't have modern lithium ion batteries. The difference between those and your 30 year old makita nicd tool is life changing. You'll wonder how you ever got around with hoses and cords holding you back. I have some reading and research to do. Thanks for your reply. I am going to start reading about battery powered tools.
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Mar 9, 2021 04:43
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