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As part of getting a new range for the house and discovering that the previous owner spilled all sorts of poo poo on either side of the existing range which pooled and coagulated on the floor (loving Gary) requiring me to scrape and clean the cabinet walls and floor, I discovered while getting up off the floor after completing the cleaning that the stone countertop section to the left of the range was actually not attached to a goddamn thing! It moved when I pushed on it. I flipped it over to find this:  And here's what was under it:  Given these atrocities, I have two questions: 1. What is the best method to get that old adhesive off the bottom of the stone? I'm assuming Goo Gone and a scraper or something like that but I welcome ideas. 2. What is the best way to reattach it? I'm assuming I can use another dab of silicone adhesive but I don't want to run into this problem again if I can avoid it.
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Jun 24, 2021 14:47
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MeKeV posted:What are the rules on multiple cross posts? I've put this in a general thread earlier, then found the plumbing thread. Though I probably should have come straight in here... HVAC (E: or plumbing) thread would probably have the best information for you but that said, I don't know they're going to be able to help at all with a tankless water heater purchased on Amazon from a dropshipper in China. Part of what you're paying for when you buy brand name (literally any brand name) is the support and parts availability from domestic suppliers. Without that your best bet would be tracking down the manufacturer in China (which is probably not the brand on the amazon listing) and trying to get support direct from them. There's no way to possibly know if it has any facility for cross-compatibility or frankly if it's even suitable for its intended purpose with the information available on the listing. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3761260 E: If you have friends or family with experience working directly with Chinese manufacturing supply chains (i.e. not through a broker who does all the difficult bits) I'd recommend hitting them up for help. corgski fucked around with this message at 18:58 on Jun 24, 2021 |
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Jun 24, 2021 17:02
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corgski posted:HVAC (E: or plumbing) thread would probably have the best information for you but that said, I don't know they're going to be able to help at all with a tankless water heater purchased on Amazon from a dropshipper in China. Part of what you're paying for when you buy brand name (literally any brand name) is the support and parts availability from domestic suppliers. Without that your best bet would be tracking down the manufacturer in China (which is probably not the brand on the amazon listing) and trying to get support direct from them. There's no way to possibly know if it has any facility for cross-compatibility or frankly if it's even suitable for its intended purpose with the information available on the listing. Thanks. I'm not that bothered, like you say it was cheap. I'd prefer it not to go to waste like, but I don't expect to find too many specific details or conversion kits for the specific model. The listing even says make sure you order the correct version, I was just dumb. I ask on the off chance, with me accidentally having a successful test run on butane, some one might hint at saying "it'll work ok, but just run through gas quickly" or something like that. Or conversely a "do not try it again on LPG, it'll blow your face off" warning for everyone to see.
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Jun 24, 2021 19:52
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Yeah sorry I think in this case you’re poo poo outta luck. If it was a reputable brand like Haier, parts and support for what you’re trying to do might be possible to come by but that has nothing at all to go on.
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Jun 24, 2021 20:16
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MeKeV posted:Thanks. I'm not that bothered, like you say it was cheap. I'd prefer it not to go to waste like, but I don't expect to find too many specific details or conversion kits for the specific model. The listing even says make sure you order the correct version, I was just dumb. I think the big difference is feed rate (propane has a much higher energy content than natural gas), but I am not an expert. Any answer you get in the plumbing or HVAC threads is probably better than mine. The only reason I'm bothering to comment despite not having great domain knowledge is because putting more energy than expected into a combustion device is generally not a great idea and you should avoid doing it unless someone knowledgeable explains why it's ok. EDIT: We had an issue with a gas flare on an industrial system once and the solution was 'drill more holes in the flare head'. So it's not like there aren't solutions, it's just that getting it wrong may result in some hazardous conditions, so caution is warranted. Tezer fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Jun 24, 2021 |
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Jun 24, 2021 20:28
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I have a toilet that was running a year ago, so I replaced all the tank internals and it stopped running until about a month ago when it started running again. Before I go and replace everything again, are there any hot tricks I could try to fix it again?
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Jun 24, 2021 20:38
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MeKeV posted:Thanks. I'm not that bothered, like you say it was cheap. I'd prefer it not to go to waste like, but I don't expect to find too many specific details or conversion kits for the specific model. The listing even says make sure you order the correct version, I was just dumb. All I know about NG vs Propane is that you absolutely positively require a conversion kit that has been engineered by someone who knows what the hell they're doing. They run at different pressures and require different flow rates to operate properly. You can't just pipe them up interchangeably, and you can't just wing it. You're literally playing with fire. If you're not 100% confident in what you're doing, don't do it.
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Jun 24, 2021 20:41
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:Its obvs hard to tell from the picture, but E clips? Just wanted to let you know that you were correct! It was e-clips. Good eye. I actually found an old replacement part that wasn't broken and it definitely uses e-clips.  Stack Machine posted:Whenever this comes up I feel it's my duty to remind people that a can of air duster turned upside down is functionally equivalent to freeze spray. melon cat fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Jun 24, 2021 |
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Jun 24, 2021 20:43
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Beef Of Ages posted:As part of getting a new range for the house and discovering that the previous owner spilled all sorts of poo poo on either side of the existing range which pooled and coagulated on the floor (loving Gary) requiring me to scrape and clean the cabinet walls and floor, I discovered while getting up off the floor after completing the cleaning that the stone countertop section to the left of the range was actually not attached to a goddamn thing! First off, it looks as though the adhesive never made contact with the framing lumber because whatever that half-wall is clad in (drywall? Wonderboard? 5/8" trim waste? All of the above?) is sitting proud of the wood surface. So what you need to do is either trim the perimeter or shim the framing lumber. Then use adhesive caulk to secure it; something heavy on top, like an old car battery, may help promote adhesion. If a razor knife or blade does not remove the adhesive, your best bet is an angle grinder with a 3" scrubbie wheel or wire cup wheel, to tear it off.
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Jun 25, 2021 03:56
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That strange guy posted:
You can take a piece of brass or steel tubing slightly larger than the screw and file teeth into it chuck in into a drill and use it as a tiny plug cutter. Then glue a dowel in the hole and redrill for the new screws if needed. Screws in that vintage of a guitar are made of cheese and trying to dremel a slot for a screwdriver in it will make it an even bigger mess.
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Jun 25, 2021 20:36
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PainterofCrap posted:First off, it looks as though the adhesive never made contact with the framing lumber because whatever that half-wall is clad in (drywall? Wonderboard? 5/8" trim waste? All of the above?) is sitting proud of the wood surface. Thanks.  The old adhesive does come off with my 4" metal scraper but it takes forever and sucks so I was hoping for an easy button option but alas, struggle and tribulation are the way of the homeowner. I don't feel like the wonderboard (I believe that's what that is) is sitting above the framing wood surface but I haven't checked closely enough. The evidence of the adhesive not leaving a mark on that 2x4 suggests that you're correct though, so I'll see about a shim situation as I don't have the right tools to trim that sort of material.
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Jun 25, 2021 21:10
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Thumposaurus posted:You can take a piece of brass or steel tubing slightly larger than the screw and file teeth into it chuck in into a drill and use it as a tiny plug cutter. Then glue a dowel in the hole and redrill for the new screws if needed. That's a huge help , thank you.
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Jun 25, 2021 21:31
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Hey thread, I've got a thermostat question that seems too quick for the HVAC thread. I have a gas furnace that's being control by a simple 2 wire millivolt thermostat, and I think now is the time to upgrade it to a smart/programmable one. If the furnace is newish and has spots for more than just the two wires that the millivolt needs, is there any reason why I can't just wire a new one up that's a 24v thermostat?
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Jun 26, 2021 18:15
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 Molding on the top of the cabinets is slightly separated (edit: not separated, just not aligned). This the only non-corner joint, and all the corners are just fine. I can push it back in to place easily, so I guess the nails loosened a bit over time? So I'm not sure if throwing some wood glue on the joint is the right move, or if I need to get some trim nails at the bottom to tighten it up. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Jun 26, 2021 |
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Jun 26, 2021 19:47
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What trade do you call to have a noslip coating put on a concrete patio? It's currently coated in the slipperyest paint in the world.
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Jun 26, 2021 22:01
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H110Hawk posted:What trade do you call to have a noslip coating put on a concrete patio? It's currently coated in the slipperyest paint in the world. The floor sander rental company?
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Jun 26, 2021 22:51
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:The floor sander rental company? I will not be DIYing this. Thanks.
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Jun 26, 2021 22:58
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Simplest would be just have a painter recoat it and have them add in a slip resistant additive or some ~120 grit aluminum oxide
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Jun 26, 2021 23:07
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I got the new cartridge for my faucet I posted about a few weeks ago. product https://www.pfisterfaucets.com/bathroom/product/venturi-lf-042-vn-single-control-bathroom-faucet?modelNumber=LF-042-VNCC diagram https://pfisterstorage.blob.core.windows.net/documents/pf_pe_lf042-vn.pdf I replaced parts 974-074 and 962-075. It took me awhile to get the cartridge aligned properly (there are little bumps that stick out of the bottom that have to be specifically placed on top of another piece), but it's no longer leaking out of the handle like when I first put it in! However it's leaking out of the spout a bit. Also that high pressure jet noise doesn't seem to be much better :/ First things first, here's a video of me using it without the handle, or that other chrome piece (941-426) just to try to isolate things a bit. https://imgur.com/a/yA6QvGY
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Jun 27, 2021 00:14
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Final Blog Entry posted:Simplest would be just have a painter recoat it and have them add in a slip resistant additive or some ~120 grit aluminum oxide Thanks, we left a message with a painter.
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Jun 27, 2021 01:19
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They'll call you back next year 
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Jun 27, 2021 02:50
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My garden hose faucet doesn't leak during normal use, but as I'm shutting the water off, sometimes it sprays out a torrent of water. What exactly is going on? Does this mean the seal isn't water tight? I'm just confused, as it doesn't leak otherwise. I did use plumbing tape and everything. It looks like I have a backflow preventer bib. Is there a point to having this?
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Jun 27, 2021 03:31
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Bioshuffle posted:My garden hose faucet doesn't leak during normal use, but as I'm shutting the water off, sometimes it sprays out a torrent of water. What exactly is going on? Does this mean the seal isn't water tight? I'm just confused, as it doesn't leak otherwise. I did use plumbing tape and everything. It looks like I have a backflow preventer bib. Is there a point to having this?
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Jun 27, 2021 04:00
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Is there a vacuum breaker on there that it's spraying from?
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Jun 27, 2021 04:07
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I'm going to have a plumber look at the faucet, now the hot water only comes out a little, whether the hot water valve is completely open, or completely shut off  The hot side was fine, then I turned off the valve, and when I turned it on again I didn't hear that whooshing sound of water coming through again, like I do with the cold valve.
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Jun 27, 2021 04:59
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H110Hawk posted:What trade do you call to have a noslip coating put on a concrete patio? It's currently coated in the slipperyest paint in the world. I mean, they make paint for this poo poo that already has grit mixed into it to keep you from slipping and busting your rear end.
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Jun 27, 2021 14:30
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PainterofCrap posted:Your leak is at the corner where your scupper for roof drainage is, and the tar/asphalt seal between your roof membrane/parapet wall opening and the scupper box has failed. Step outside and see, the downspout is right there. Hey good call, I'm in Philadelphia  Our home inspector used a drone to take pictures of the roof, there's a few shots in the final report but nothing all that close to the problem corner, so I've asked them if they took any additional pictures that they didn't include.As far as the discolored spot in the ceiling where water got in, what are the odds that there's a lovely pile of mildew/black mold/undesirable something growing in the ceiling there? I haven't noticed it getting damp in subsequent rainstorms and the spot actually looks like it's gotten a little smaller, but I don't have a way to get up in the ceiling space to look until I figure out how best to remove one of the recessed lights in the ceiling, and my house-fu isn't yet on the level where I want to mess with electrical components.
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Jun 27, 2021 21:18
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H110Hawk posted:Thanks, we left a message with a painter. If this doesn't work out, there are coatings contractors all around. Most of them do caulking and coating, but just search your area for a Coating Contractor and find a concrete coating one. They will likely have to abrade the paint off first, but if they use the right product it'll be completely and utterly non-slip. Do be aware, though, that non-slip surfaces are basically impossible to clean short of a low pressure pressure washer.
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Jun 27, 2021 22:50
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Plastik posted:If this doesn't work out, there are coatings contractors all around. Most of them do caulking and coating, but just search your area for a Coating Contractor and find a concrete coating one. They will likely have to abrade the paint off first, but if they use the right product it'll be completely and utterly non-slip. Do be aware, though, that non-slip surfaces are basically impossible to clean short of a low pressure pressure washer. Cool, thanks. We clean it today with a harbor freight special pressure washer. It's the only thing that really gets the bubble solution slick off of it. It's slick enough clean that the nearly 2 year old cannot walk on it wet, and the 5 year old has trouble. When it gets coated in bubble solution it's basically like a cartoon watching kids fall down constantly. Is caulking and coating the sort of contractor I could have go around my floor and seal up the gaps between the hardwood and baseboard?
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Jun 27, 2021 23:06
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H110Hawk posted:Cool, thanks. We clean it today with a harbor freight special pressure washer. It's the only thing that really gets the bubble solution slick off of it. It's slick enough clean that the nearly 2 year old cannot walk on it wet, and the 5 year old has trouble. When it gets coated in bubble solution it's basically like a cartoon watching kids fall down constantly. You should not caulk the gap between your base boards and hardwood flooring. I asked the same question myself, and I believe it’s there to allow the flooring to expand and contract with the seasons.
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Jun 27, 2021 23:14
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Plastik posted:If this doesn't work out, there are coatings contractors all around. Most of them do caulking and coating, but just search your area for a Coating Contractor and find a concrete coating one. They will likely have to abrade the paint off first, but if they use the right product it'll be completely and utterly non-slip. Do be aware, though, that non-slip surfaces are basically impossible to clean short of a low pressure pressure washer. This is a good point. Around here at least "decorative concrete" would be a trade to seek out. These would be the guys who could spray down an acrylic texture or do a stampable overlay if you want something a little fancier, but they would certainly do a basic coating for you as well. As a bonus they're probably going to do better prep and often use better products from specialty manufacturers vs your typical house painter who dabbles in floor coatings.
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Jun 28, 2021 00:50
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C-Euro posted:Hey good call, I'm in Philadelphia From my experience, mold is overblown and the market for remediation flourishes and prospers on fear and ignorance. Chances are slim to none that you have a mold problem. Intermittent roof leaks are generally not conducive to mold propagation as the area under the roof deck gets pretty hot during daylight hours. You likely have a tiny to non-existent crawlspace up there, and what access that there may be to it will be through a ceiling hatch in one of the bedroom closets — if it wasn’t drywalled over. But you have a scupper leak, and it will need re-sealing sooner than later. It probably won’t appear in any photos that your inspector may have, although I’ve gotten decent images with the company drone if I had enough room to shoot that corner on the oblique...the seam breaks can be small; what gets you is the water piling up in that corner since it’s the only drainage for a 1200-sf roof. Which reminds me: check to see if the scupper is blocked. I’ve found everything from tennis balls to deceased tree rodents. An occluded drain causes pooling, and your roof is not designed to be a pool, so you can enjoy a one-time leak during a Baptist downpour & nothing any other time. Which can drive you nuts.
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Jun 28, 2021 02:10
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PainterofCrap posted:a Baptist downpour 
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Jun 28, 2021 03:46
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I have some shelves in my bookcase that seems to be custom made for cassette tapes, I'd like to fill it up, but if I fill it up completely there's no room for a hand or finger to get in to pull one out, I was thinking of installing some backing that'd work like the click mechanism in a retractable pen (you push it in a little and it comes back out again a little farther), is there a name for this kind of mechanism so I can purchase parts separatly or will I have to scavange old pens?
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Jun 28, 2021 10:13
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Charles Ingalls posted:I have some shelves in my bookcase that seems to be custom made for cassette tapes, I'd like to fill it up, but if I fill it up completely there's no room for a hand or finger to get in to pull one out, I was thinking of installing some backing that'd work like the click mechanism in a retractable pen (you push it in a little and it comes back out again a little farther), is there a name for this kind of mechanism so I can purchase parts separatly or will I have to scavange old pens? That's called a push latch. Here's a great video for you: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_wPH904a_8 I'm sure you can find parts around.
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Jun 28, 2021 11:10
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thanks, couldn't find anyone selling that for prices that compared to pens from the dollar store, so ended up with this hot glued mess - works very well though 
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Jun 28, 2021 17:34
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Charles Ingalls posted:thanks, couldn't find anyone selling that for prices that compared to pens from the dollar store, so ended up with this hot glued mess - works very well though gently caress it. That rocks. I've been trying to use old junk in projects, especially DIY home stuff.
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Jun 28, 2021 20:08
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My mother needs to ship a computer, a mini-ITX I'm pretty sure. The original packaging is long gone. How do we make sure that it survives transport? Is there a service that can package the thing securely for her? Would it work to stuff the case with packing material, wrap it in bubble wrap, and just stuff it in a box?
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Jun 29, 2021 17:00
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:My mother needs to ship a computer, a mini-ITX I'm pretty sure. The original packaging is long gone. How do we make sure that it survives transport? Is there a service that can package the thing securely for her? Would it work to stuff the case with packing material, wrap it in bubble wrap, and just stuff it in a box? Best thing would be to remove stuff like GPU, cpu cooler and package them safely with/in the pc itself with appropriate material.
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Jun 29, 2021 21:09
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:My mother needs to ship a computer, a mini-ITX I'm pretty sure. The original packaging is long gone. How do we make sure that it survives transport? Is there a service that can package the thing securely for her? Would it work to stuff the case with packing material, wrap it in bubble wrap, and just stuff it in a box? Backup the data first. Verify that you can read the backup. Backblaze will do it. If you ship it assembled go to any shipping store and just keep handing them money until it ships. Insure it appropriately and assume that it won't make it. I've shipped literally hundreds of thousands of dollars of it equipment via this method. If it's small enough and you're flying to the destination consider putting it in your carryon.
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Jun 30, 2021 03:44
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