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Deviant posted:"your prusa mini has shipped" I'm jealous because I miss that feeling when I first set mine up and started slicing prints and everything just went flawlessly. Now it's expected behavior, I'm spoiled.
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Nov 2, 2021 16:44
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biracial bear for uncut posted:I'm jealous because I miss that feeling when I first set mine up and started slicing prints and everything just went flawlessly. This is my second, but my first cantilever design. So I've got new things to break!
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Nov 2, 2021 17:23
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Sydney Bottocks posted:If it's not for you, it's not for you, but I will say that installing a resin flex plate removes most of the worry regarding getting prints off the build plate. Holy poo poo I didn't know these were a thing! 90% of the mess and fuss and why I often don't print is that I do loathe the cleanup process, and INVARIABLY I get sticky and goo goes everywhere precisely because I'm trying to drive a wedge under my new print, sending it across the room when it breaks free.
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Nov 2, 2021 17:30
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Martytoof posted:Holy poo poo I didn't know these were a thing! 90% of the mess and fuss and why I often don't print is that I do loathe the cleanup process, and INVARIABLY I get sticky and goo goes everywhere precisely because I'm trying to drive a wedge under my new print, sending it across the room when it breaks free. 1. Magnet adhesive will start coming off so you'll eventually need to replace it. 2. If there is any resin between the magnet and the plate your plate can start to slip and slide, which makes for some very distorted prints 3. There is a little lip on the plate to help you get it off when your prints are done. It is incredibly easy for that lip to catch on the vat and/or vat screws on its way down. This has ruined at least 1 printer LCD for me plus sprayed resin absolutely everywhere on several different occasions. I now babysit the plates as they drop into the resin.
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Nov 2, 2021 18:25
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Martytoof posted:Holy poo poo I didn't know these were a thing! 90% of the mess and fuss and why I often don't print is that I do loathe the cleanup process, and INVARIABLY I get sticky and goo goes everywhere precisely because I'm trying to drive a wedge under my new print, sending it across the room when it breaks free. My friend, I can assure you that will be a thing of the past once you slap a flex plate on your resin printer 
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Nov 2, 2021 18:25
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InternetJunky posted:They are certainly nice to have and I would always prefer using one rather than not, but just so you know they come with their own set of issues. 1. I haven't run into this just yet, but I do have some spare adhesive magnets for my smaller printers just in case. 2. I also haven't encountered that, but that's because (as part of the cleaning process) I always remove the build plate and clean both the top part and the magnet with alcohol before putting a clean flex plate on. 3. I did run into this with my Mars 2, and I definitely babysit it when it's lowering into the vat. I think it's because Elegoo basically increased the size of the build plate, but didn't increase the size either the resin vat or the printer base itself to accommodate the larger build plate, so that's probably why. Hasn't been an issue with my Anycubic Photon Mono or my two bigger printers though.
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Nov 2, 2021 18:31
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Obviously it would affect the stamp/die nature of producing these, but it would be cool if the little tab could curve up as it meets the plate. Still there for you to push against, but it would point up to present a minimal surface to foul your vat etc. The others I kind of figured were par for the course. Would still need to clean the plate carefully after each print, and at the price they're charging I can certainly be comfortable calling it a consumable same way I consider FEP a consumable. TBH the biggest problem I see is removing the adhesive from the build plate when it comes time to replace it altogether.
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Nov 2, 2021 18:57
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InternetJunky posted:Are cold temperatures really a problem for resin printers? I was just UV welding two cured pieces together and didn't realise some uncured resin had dripped on my finger, and the heat of it curing was uncomfortably hot. If that kind of heat is being generated inside the machine as it prints the resin won't stay cold for very long. It really is. The temps in the machine are certainly higher than outside (I've checked with an IR temperature gauge) but any time my ambient temps fell below 65f, my failure rate skyrocketed. I assume that build plate absorbs what little heat is generated from the very thin layers of resin that get cured. quote:3. There is a little lip on the plate to help you get it off when your prints are done. It is incredibly easy for that lip to catch on the vat and/or vat screws on its way down. This has ruined at least 1 printer LCD for me plus sprayed resin absolutely everywhere on several different occasions. I now babysit the plates as they drop into the resin. I had this problem only when I put the vat in backwards in my Mars 2 Pro. I'm kind of surprised that you have such close tolerances in your vat (but I'm not doubting you).
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Nov 2, 2021 18:57
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Doctor Zero posted:It really is. The temps in the machine are certainly higher than outside (I've checked with an IR temperature gauge) but any time my ambient temps fell below 65f, my failure rate skyrocketed. I assume that build plate absorbs what little heat is generated from the very thin layers of resin that get cured.  Up to about 7 degrees ambient temps they were still ok with occasional failures.quote:I had this problem only when I put the vat in backwards in my Mars 2 Pro. I'm kind of surprised that you have such close tolerances in your vat (but I'm not doubting you).
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Nov 2, 2021 19:26
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InternetJunky posted:It's finally getting well below freezing at night now so my garage was hovering around zero and I finally started getting a bunch of failures. I had to move my printers inside yesterday. Just gonna leave this here: https://www.amazon.com/Constant-Tem...la-802899349191 Positive temperature coefficent heaters. They more or less self maintain temp in a volume.
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Nov 2, 2021 19:41
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On my Mars 2, I basically have to put the flex plate on backwards (the lip pointing towards the Z axis lead screw) and make sure the vat is pushed in as far back as it'll go. I also have to make sure that nothing's protruding on the right side of the build plate, or else it'll catch the arm that holds the vat retention screw in place. I'm sure there's probably an easier or more logical way to prevent it from catching on something or scraping down the side of the vat, but so far this has been working for me  It's not an issue with the Anycubic Photon Mono, because that has two hex screws protruding up that butt up against the back of the vat, so I can't improperly seat it, and the build plate has more than enough clearance on all sides when inside the vat, including the lip of the flex plate. Same for my Sonic Mighty and Saturn, plus they also have different retention screw setups so there's nothing for the build plate on either printer to accidentally catch onto.
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Nov 2, 2021 19:57
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Martytoof posted:Would still need to clean the plate carefully after each print, and at the price they're charging I can certainly be comfortable calling it a consumable same way I consider FEP a consumable. I have a wash & cure station (Anycubic) and I just put the whole build plate in. (The wire basked is designed to hold it). Take out when finished, pop flex plate off, pop prints off, spray clean IPA on flex plate, wipe it clean, wipe down build plate, mount flex plate, stick build plate back in printer. Takes, I dunno, 1 minute and printer is ready to go again.
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Nov 2, 2021 19:59
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InternetJunky posted:It's entirely possible I have my vats in backwards (lip to the front?). I usually do tab to front yes - you could try flipping it around and see if it's better. edit: Actually come to think of it, it is my Anycubic Mono that had the issue, not my M2P. I don't have a build plate on my Mars. Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Nov 2, 2021 |
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Nov 2, 2021 20:17
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ImplicitAssembler posted:I have a wash & cure station (Anycubic) and I just put the whole build plate in. (The wire basked is designed to hold it). I do this, except I put the plate on a drip hangar to save the runoff resin if i'm not in a hurry. which defeats the purpose of having two flex plates i guess, but whatever. Deviant fucked around with this message at 20:32 on Nov 2, 2021 |
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Nov 2, 2021 20:28
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Nerobro posted:Just gonna leave this here: https://www.amazon.com/Constant-Tem...la-802899349191 Uh, yes, but that one will maintain temp at a bit over 200C, more than enough to turn its cooling fan into molten slag.
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Nov 2, 2021 21:00
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insta posted:Uh, yes, but that one will maintain temp at a bit over 200C, more than enough to turn its cooling fan into molten slag. Huh? It says that the wires can resist up to 200C.
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Nov 2, 2021 21:34
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I have one of those, they get hot as gently caress by themselves, possibly above 200C.
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Nov 2, 2021 21:41
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the reviews on that one don't look promising tbh
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Nov 2, 2021 21:52
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I appreciate the link to the machine heaters, and that would probably be a great solution for a single printer, but I've got 5 (soon 6) going. They're all on the same breaker too.
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Nov 2, 2021 22:35
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Why not build a foam board box around them. It doesn't even need to be very good, just a couple of dots of hot glue on each seam, maybe cover the worst/biggest gaps with packing tape. A 4x8 panel of blue foam is less than $10 pre covid, for one big box to hold all five you're looking at maybe three panels Even in a brutal Canadian winter, five machines ought to keep the internal temp close to 65f without additional heating
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Nov 3, 2021 00:20
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fwiw a small PTC silicone heater isn't going to be very high-draw compared to other heater types, more importantly they draw less and less the closer they are to their 'final' operating temperature; these are very much the slow-and-steady sort of heater, the kind of thing you'd leave on for long stretches in between prints, so I wouldn't assume operating a couple of them is out of the question, and there are ways to operate them that can reduce that load even more, 'preheating' the heaters to skip the highest-draw parts of heating, or staggering their start-ups so the surges aren't all at once, for example. wrt temperature, their operating temp is set during manufacturing, and can go pretty low, i think i bought a 50C belt for testing, on the assumption the actual resin temperature would be at least 10C lower. didn't use it much because it had clearance issues with the sides of my Mars Pro's hood.
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Nov 3, 2021 01:23
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Still waiting on upgrade parts, which wont be her until late friday or saturday. .. when im catching a 6am flight. So I quickly got a direct replacement ender hotend for cheap and just slapped it in. So far its working well, and kept the preinstalled capricorn tube as I'll corry about it later when I switch the heat break. In the meantime i got a Pi Zero 2, and octoprint running and connections look good, cant wait to level and set my z, and get some report printing done. The camera cable needs to be different but i guess i need to print some cases now
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Nov 3, 2021 02:43
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RE: octoprint: I remember reading a couple years ago that there could be quality issues w/ using Octoprint vs printing directly from SD. Something about feeding print commands realtime maybe being not as good as being able to direct read them from the card. Is/was this the case? I wouldn't think this would be a big problem in 2021, but IDK. Does it matter if your controller is 8bit vs 32 bit?
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Nov 3, 2021 04:32
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Fanged Lawn Wormy posted:RE: octoprint: 32 bit apparently makes things nicer ? more bits is more gooder ? The other thing wasnt an SD card issue if i think we are talking about the same thing, but something along the lines of the buffer the printer had to read massive lines of gcode. Something something SD card is just shoving it in vs octoprint and similar spoon feeding it, but i know i am 100% overly simplifying the issue. Either way, octoprint is cool, especially the plugings that show a better dashboard, and the visualizer that mirors each movement of the nozzle is drat fun. Klipper is like 90% working, just some issues communicating with itself that i might need to flash firmware directly vs how it is trying to do, but i would love to try those features next. i would like to get this old android phone or tablet to be a display, so i need to track down that code
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Nov 3, 2021 04:36
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Ok, so, after a day of doodling and modeling and mathing to see about how to build a table STRONK ENUFF to handle the weight of my enormous and girthy mega 8k, my brother cut me off at the knees with a simple suggestion. Water heater stand. Cheaper than the lumber needed to make the table, holds a ton of weight, is made of metal. So, if like me, you have a gigantic printer in your present or future, a water heater stand and some cinder blocks is a lot easier and cheaper than wood and wood screws. Next up, finding bigger feeder syringes cause this printer is a thirsty boi.
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Nov 3, 2021 05:00
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Dang, that's a good thing to keep in mind, thanks for the tip 
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Nov 3, 2021 05:06
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Fanged Lawn Wormy posted:RE: octoprint: My Prusa Mk3 - Octoprint (on a Pi 4) setup would rate limit, particularly on gyroid infill. I guess the dripfeed over USB was the limiting factor. It never caused print artifacts, just slowed things down a bit. I imagine more modern boards handle it fine. Offloading all of the processing to a beefier processor a la Klipper seems to be the current hotness that means your motion controller's speed isn't a factor at all any more.
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Nov 3, 2021 06:00
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Ok, so, after a day of doodling and modeling and mathing to see about how to build a table STRONK ENUFF to handle the weight of my enormous and girthy mega 8k, my brother cut me off at the knees with a simple suggestion. Perfect, thanks for this. I have a Jupiter on its way in a few months hopefully and was wondering if a folding table would even hold it.
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Nov 3, 2021 06:05
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Wanderless posted:My Prusa Mk3 - Octoprint (on a Pi 4) setup would rate limit, particularly on gyroid infill. I guess the dripfeed over USB was the limiting factor. It never caused print artifacts, just slowed things down a bit. I imagine more modern boards handle it fine. Offloading all of the processing to a beefier processor a la Klipper seems to be the current hotness that means your motion controller's speed isn't a factor at all any more. That definitely was an issue with pushing gcode over a USB-serial device at 115k, 230k or 250k serial. There is an upper limit of how much gcode you can send a second at those bit rates. Klipper has a vastly different line protocol, a reduction of over 90% over the wire. Not to mention step rates are substantially higher, simply because the MCU's CPU doesn't have to do any gcode parsing, and can instead dedicate its efforts to stepping fast.
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Nov 3, 2021 09:34
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Octoprint seem to have an option for moving to an SD card. I'm assuming this means it's writing the card over USB, then running from USB? If true that can mitigate the issue Still trying to get klipper up as well, curious to see the speed and quality? Gains if true
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Nov 3, 2021 10:55
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Roundboy posted:Octoprint seem to have an option for moving to an SD card. I'm assuming this means it's writing the card over USB, then running from USB? If true that can mitigate the issue I think the "send to SD" was the super slow option. I remember it taking absolutely for loving ever to move a print file from the Octoprint storage to the printer storage over USB, anyway. Whenever you did that it also tied Octoprint up so that you couldn't do anything else until the file transfer was complete.
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Nov 3, 2021 11:21
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If only there was someone here who could clarify a couple of these questions about Octoprint.
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Nov 3, 2021 11:51
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I would hope foosel has better things to worry about.
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Nov 3, 2021 13:01
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Tungsten carbide nozzle report: prints exactly the same as brass after running auto PID calibration for the copper heat block I installed. Everyone says it will not tighten correctly with an aluminum V6 block so I switched the block at the same time (and added titanium heatbreak because I broke my old one). Haven't tried any abrasives yet because I use them for pretty nice stuff and am just doing bulk PETG prints right now. Anyway, I ordered a 5kg "texas sized" zyltech spool, excited to not have to think about printing order on some 300-600g parts here shortly. The "PETG chungus" is becoming my new favorite parts genre and zyltech is an enabler. Also enjoying making laptop stands. 
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Nov 4, 2021 02:18
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Zyltech PLA is good then? Their 8 packs are priced well.
Deviant fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Nov 4, 2021 |
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Nov 4, 2021 03:00
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Deviant posted:Zyltech PLA is good then? Their 8 packs are priced well. I ordered the PETG, and haven't tried any of their stuff yet. I hear it's good, but I only ordered it because PrintedSolid was out of black PETG.
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Nov 4, 2021 03:05
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Octoprint went fine. Klipper has some....odd settings. I know my ender 3 bed is 235x235. I know my offset for the BL touch with my fan shroud is -48,10 But, when those settings are used in printer.cfg and i manually set the x axis to its max (235) the nozzle is off the bed by about 8mm. I don't think its possible to push the x out further for the probe to be on the edge as the hotend assembly will hit the gantry. Also my screw tilt settings kept failing as it would want to fly past max x, but this was based on a reddit post of configs for my printer I bit the bullet, set x to 245 position_max,followed the procedures to set x/y/x offset and slightly adjusted my screw tilt positions so now when i tilt, its right on the screws, and when i move to max x, the nozzle is right on the edge of the bed to get all usable space. i know this is measured vs something i am reading online, but it feels like I am just dong something wrog changing basic config values that should be pretty fixed. Should I set the bed to what cura really considers the max, 220 to account for clips (which i am not using) or am i completely off on offsets? I admit the 'sometimes negative is negative and also positive is negative' depending on the setting is throwing me off
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Nov 4, 2021 04:08
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Deviant posted:Zyltech PLA is good then? Their 8 packs are priced well. Zyltech is my usual go-to for budget pla. Their silks are temperamental but I think that's true of all silks? The basic PLA is consistent and matte black has been pretty dependable for me, too. (that said, I just ordered some matterhackers pla because they've got amazing colors and they're running a sale right now)
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Nov 4, 2021 06:07
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Roundboy posted:dong something wrog I know I shouldn't laugh at stuff like this, but it got me.
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Nov 4, 2021 11:14
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-48mm sounds grossly wrong, that's 20% of the bed away from the nozzle
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Nov 4, 2021 14:46
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