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The Dave posted:I have a radon remediation system that is gurgling like a mother fucker because the ground is super saturated and the water is caught in the piping. I'm imagining something like a cleanout tee on an a/c condensate line
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Oct 30, 2021 15:18
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Yeah I guess what I was wondering is if there’s any way to like retrofit or drill in a clean out or if it’s just going to be cutting some pipe out and adding a whole new piece with a clean out. EDIT: Seems like ultimately rigging up a saddle tee is what I want. The Dave fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Oct 30, 2021 |
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Oct 30, 2021 15:42
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I need to replace this hose thingy that's broken. As far as I can tell I just need to 1) shut off water 2) unscrew it with 2 wrenches 3) put on a new one 4) turn water back on and check for leaks?  Anything I'm missing?
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Oct 30, 2021 23:30
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The Dave posted:I have a radon remediation system that is gurgling like a mother fucker because the ground is super saturated and the water is caught in the piping. Ours has a water trap outside and the bottom just unscrews. I never hear any gurgling from inside even though our water table gets super high, though.
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Oct 31, 2021 00:04
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L0cke17 posted:I need to replace this hose thingy that's broken. Teflon tape
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Oct 31, 2021 01:02
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You're going to want a torch too. That looks crazy corroded, I'd be tempted to cut it off and sweat on a new fitting.
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Oct 31, 2021 12:21
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melon cat posted:If your sump pump is tanking (ie. running almost constantly) your discharge line might need to be extended further out. Because if it isn't discharging far enough it might be feeding the foundation perpetually with water. This could burn out your pump if it's running really often. If you had to have it snaked out twice you might be getting a lot of mud in your sump pump basin. Got a pic of the inside of your basin that you can share? And what's the discharge line setup like?   Some junk one of the basement companies fished out of there and claimed was the footer drain pipe breaking up, I believe. One of my buddies said that was bullshit but I don't know.  outside there's an uncapped line where I'm seeing some water come out when the pump runs, and the discharge line running underground to the sewer drain.I live in a suburb (literal user name here  ) with fairly close spaced houses and there's a sewer grate out in the yard at the "4 corners" edge of 4 houses. Seems there are a bunch of drains connected to it and that's where the guy snaking the discharge line was checking to see if it was draining. Maybe it doesn't go into the sewer but sure seems like it. Sewer drain is maybe 40-60 feet from the house and sump, pretty straight shot.
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Oct 31, 2021 13:06
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love the new thread title
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NomNomNom posted:You're going to want a torch too. That looks crazy corroded, I'd be tempted to cut it off and sweat on a new fitting. Is this something I'd be better off just paying a professional to do?
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Oct 31, 2021 17:23
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L0cke17 posted:Is this something I'd be better off just paying a professional to do? If you can shut the water off behind it without shutting off the whole house, there is no reason for you to not try it yourself first. It looks like there is already Teflon tape on the threads. That will help prevent the threads from corroding to the point that they need to be sledge hammered off. So shut the water off, try it first, make sure to hold the pipe steady with a wrench or big pliers and turn the valve assembly. Once off, cleaned he threads of any old Teflon tape, put new tape on, and thread the new valve on there. This is one of the easiest plumbing fixes a home owner can do themselves.
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Oct 31, 2021 21:42
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My dad wants to replace the cartridge in a moen sink. That would be pretty straightforward, but neither of us can actually unscrew the handle's mounting. It's currently wrapped in a vinegar-soaked paper towel, but is there any other cool tips to undo that fucker? For reference, the non-problem one can just be unscrewed by hand. Seems like this one's sorta glued to the countertop.
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Oct 31, 2021 21:55
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Zenostein posted:My dad wants to replace the cartridge in a moen sink. That would be pretty straightforward, but neither of us can actually unscrew the handle's mounting. It's currently wrapped in a vinegar-soaked paper towel, but is there any other cool tips to undo that fucker? This isn't something dumb like they are threaded opposite for each side right? Picture? Given you've gotten one off it's unlikely to be operator error. There wasn't a missing set screw or something right? Download a pdf of the install instructions?
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Oct 31, 2021 21:59
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wesleywillis posted:If you can shut the water off behind it without shutting off the whole house, there is no reason for you to not try it yourself first. It looks like there is already Teflon tape on the threads. That will help prevent the threads from corroding to the point that they need to be sledge hammered off. So shut the water off, try it first, make sure to hold the pipe steady with a wrench or big pliers and turn the valve assembly. I do have to turn off the whole house water to get to it, but the shutoff valve is very easy to get to.
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Oct 31, 2021 22:16
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H110Hawk posted:This isn't something dumb like they are threaded opposite for each side right? Picture? Given you've gotten one off it's unlikely to be operator error. There wasn't a missing set screw or something right? Download a pdf of the install instructions? Nah, to get the handles off (both) it's just counter-clockwise. Install instructions say the same (in reverse, obviously). It's just the hot (left) one is stuck.
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Oct 31, 2021 23:24
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L0cke17 posted:I do have to turn off the whole house water to get to it, but the shutoff valve is very easy to get to. Well if it doesn't have its own valve, you risk getting yourself stuck with the whole house water off. Like if you run into problems with the valve removed, now you can't turn on the rest of your water either.
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Oct 31, 2021 23:30
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L0cke17 posted:I do have to turn off the whole house water to get to it, but the shutoff valve is very easy to get to. Realistically, it's probably still only a ten minute job that you can do yourself though. OR call a plumber and have then change the valve AND put in another valve inline with that line so you can shut it off in the future if necessary. Pay the extra 2.47$ and get the good valve, not whatever home Depot special the guy might have. Do you live where it freezes in the winter?
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Nov 1, 2021 00:38
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Suburban Dad posted:Yay thread title, lol. Sump pics and bonus evidence of rod holes leaking water previously. Good pics. So your sump pump discharge branches off into surface level AND underground into your main drain? That would be... odd. But anyway if that's the case do you know the condition of your underground sewer drain pipe? Like is it busted up, old clay pipe or a new, shiny fiberglass line? Because old busted up sewer drain piping can leak water into the soil directly next to your foundation. Just trying to figure out why your sump pump is running so often- how often would you say your sump pump runs? Your sump basin has a bit of mud in it but doesn't look too muddy. Get your sump pump serviced and cleaned out each year because if that broken up junk is regularly falling into into your sump basin it could jam up your sump pump impeller if you get unlucky (but you do have a backup sump pump which does lessen the risk). Interested in hearing why your buddy thinks the basement company was bullshitting. Some of that junk particularly the flatter pieces looks like calcium build up that flaked off your basin walls. Can't explain the bigger chunks closer to the top in your photo, though. Standing water in your yard might be caused by clay heavy soil. Maybe your weeping tile is clogged, too? Just throwing out some ideas. The joy of inheriting a legacy weeping tile system. melon cat fucked around with this message at 03:16 on Nov 1, 2021 |
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Nov 1, 2021 02:35
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kid sinister posted:That's the wrong outlet tee. Outlet tees have baffles in them to direct drainage. You need a center outlet tee. Hey thanks! "center outlet tee" was the magic phrase to search for to find what I want. Also I noticed that there is an arrow pointing to the direction of water flow, and indeed it was on the reverse side of the original outlet tee pointing to the right. Based on that and the previous replies (and after a few trips to Home Depot) I managed to replace the entire plumbing underneath the sink, and it's working well so far! Before (baffle marked in red):  and after (baffle in the middle):  Thanks all!
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Nov 1, 2021 03:14
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wesleywillis posted:Realistically, it's probably still only a ten minute job that you can do yourself though. I'm in Texas, so while normally I'd say it doesn't really freeze this year proved that yes it does.
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Nov 1, 2021 03:18
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On that note, does anyone have any recommendations for a place like Texas where the building codes are definitely wrong for the winters we get now. I've considered getting a plumber in to just ambiguously "winterize" the outdoor faucets but I have no idea what they would even need to do to make our pipes safe. It would be nice to not have to worry about them, instead of leaving them running for the duration of the 4-day freezes we're getting now.
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Nov 1, 2021 03:51
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There are purpose built outdoor faucets for cold areas. You're looking for an Anti-Siphon, Frost Free/Freeze Resistant Sillcock. They work by having the valve shut the water off a foot or so behind the faucet, so it's inside the heated space, instead of right at the faucet like normal.  Your mileage may vary if that means it's inside an uninsulated crawlspace as opposed to a heated basement. In that case it would probably be a matter of installing shutoffs inside the heated area and draining the lines if an artic blast is in the forecast.
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Nov 1, 2021 04:39
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They also make frost free hydrants for any that are ran to various places in the yard, but keep in mind (I moved to DFW from IL last year) that you can just cover them with a tarp to keep the wind off them and the ground heat will keep them from freezing for stuff like what happened this year. I just covered all mine with a tarp/towel and they were all fine, granted I did leave all the interior faucets drip cause we didn't have power for 4 days.....just TX things I guess. No regulation ftw? I've thought about digging them up and putting in frost free ones....but idk if it's worth the effort, if it starts happening like yearly, maybe.
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Nov 1, 2021 05:06
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melon cat posted:Good pics. So your sump pump discharge branches off into surface level AND underground into your main drain? That would be... odd. But anyway if that's the case do you know the condition of your underground sewer drain pipe? Like is it busted up, old clay pipe or a new, shiny fiberglass line? Because old busted up sewer drain piping can leak water into the soil directly next to your foundation. Just trying to figure out why your sump pump is running so often- how often would you say your sump pump runs? The house was built in 96. Not sure if the condition of the pipes underground as we didn't do a camera of that for inspection due to the age. I'll try to get a pic of the outside so you can see better what I'm saying. Maybe my wording doesn't make sense since I don't know anything about this stuff, haha. But yes there is a pipe above ground level that water drips out of when the sump pump runs. It was worse before snaking it but it still does it. Couldn't say for sure how often the pump runs but when raining is say every half-hour at least. When not, maybe every hour or so. There's some wifi set up thing with it that I still haven't done. Maybe I'll do that and it will have some better logs of this. Buddy thought that junk was there from construction. He said the line could be crushed or broken but they don't really drain into the well area if that happens. Given the size of the pipe feeding into the well and the size of the chunks, I might agree.
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Nov 1, 2021 11:24
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TerminalSaint posted:
This might be worth getting a plumber to do in our case. The thing I need to replace is at the end of the uninsulated garage and about 25 feet from the nearest heat source.
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Nov 1, 2021 15:25
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Suburban Dad posted:The house was built in 96. Not sure if the condition of the pipes underground as we didn't do a camera of that for inspection due to the age. I'll try to get a pic of the outside so you can see better what I'm saying. Maybe my wording doesn't make sense since I don't know anything about this stuff, haha. But yes there is a pipe above ground level that water drips out of when the sump pump runs. It was worse before snaking it but it still does it. If your house was built in '96 then the main drain sewage pipe is probably be made out of better plastic material and not old clay which is more common in houses built 80+ years ago. I'm just curious as to why that old footer drainage material would be there to begin with? Unless the builders knocked down some older homes and re-built yours on top? Your buddy could be right, especially if the sump pump was put in during the original build. But if those chunks were from the original build that means your sump basin was never cleaned out properly. A sump pump running every hour isn't too bad and not something to be alarmed about. Every half hour during rainy weather isn't unusual either. I've seen some houses that were really bad and had the sump running every 30 minutes even on the dryest days. Some houses are just sitting on a lot of water. melon cat fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Nov 1, 2021 |
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Nov 1, 2021 15:54
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So my house is old, like 1790s old, and that means for that section of the house we have awesome soft pine wide plank hardwood floors. Now what that also means is that between those planks in my living room and my unfinished fieldstone basement is absolutely nothing, and the floors do have some gaps, nail holes, and wide openings around the waterlines (because ofcourse exterior water lines). I don't really know for sure if there's any value in trying to insulate / vapor barrier the basement from the living room, however, I would like there to be some barrier to cut out light leaking through when I'm in the basement, to stop liquids from splattering on the basement if someone drops a glass in a certain spot, and drowning out noise in any way would be an improvement. Maybe this helps too with some draftiness but probably not. I've seen those like stick-on aluminum (i guess?) bubble sheets that seem to be specifically for basement ceiling insulation work, but if I went that route I'm worried you might see the shine of them through the gaps in a couple of spots. So is there anything that would be a nice black or neutral color, with no graphics or text on it, that would work as an underlayment on the backside of the planks? All the typical materials seem to have some sort of branding outside of the black sheets for vapor barriers but I'm not sure if that's the type of material I should be using (and maybe it doesn't matter if it's not a true air-tight seal. I guess I don't want to trap water if something does spill but not sure how I avoid that while creating the barrier. I can't believe how much I ended up writing about this.
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Nov 3, 2021 15:33
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The Dave posted:So my house is old, like 1790s old, and that means for that section of the house we have awesome soft pine wide plank hardwood floors. Now what that also means is that between those planks in my living room and my unfinished fieldstone basement is absolutely nothing, and the floors do have some gaps, nail holes, and wide openings around the waterlines (because ofcourse exterior water lines). I don't know enough to make any other specific recommendations, but I know you should be relatively careful with vapor barrier kind of stuff in older houses that weren't built with climate control/insulation in mind. If you get the vapor drive backwards or whatever, you can relatively quickly make a house that's been perfectly happy for 230 years start to rot and have mold and moisture problems.
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Nov 3, 2021 17:53
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Seems like a job for some staples and black poster board. Easy to replace if it gets wet or whatever, not permanent, and doesn't functionally change anything about how the house operates today. Also I thought my house was old at 1880, but jesus.
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Nov 3, 2021 17:57
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We've got sparks coming from this (pictured) metal panel on our microwave, it's a built-in above our oven. Model # WMC30516HZ 0 Manufactured Jan, 2019 I am kind of assuming that microwaves aren't repairable items (or rather not worth repairing?), but figure you good people will know more. If I do need to repair it will it be similar to an electrical outlet, i.e. shut off power at the breaker box, remove surrounding cover via pulling or whatever, unplug or unwire old microwave and put in new one that I assume must be the same dimensions.
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Nov 3, 2021 19:18
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Going by the reviews there it seems like it's engineered to last about 2 years at the most, yikes.
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Nov 4, 2021 01:18
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You could just like, staple black fabric under the floorboards/to the joists. Yea, I was going to suggest something like silt fencing (which is completely not what it's designed for), but a roll of black fabric and a staplegun seems like your best bet here. Some thin plywood painted black seems ok too... I wouldn't go with drywall if you're having issues with liquids coming through the floor.
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Nov 4, 2021 01:52
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tangy yet delightful posted:We've got sparks coming from this (pictured) metal panel on our microwave, it's a built-in above our oven. That's the magnetron aka the thing that makes the magic. I would call them and ask, make sure to emphasize scary sparks and smoke and arcing sounds and is this thing going to burn down my house? Do not use it. There should be a way to unplug it in a nearby cabinet. I hope hardwired microwaves aren't a thing. Otherwise yeah it's new microwave time unless you have prior experience working with not loving around voltages. (Ever fixed a crt?)
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Nov 4, 2021 01:57
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No plugs in the surrounding cabinets that I can find. I took off the faceplate that surrounded the microwave spot and still have more to take apart to move the microwave, still can't see a plug or cord but it's dinnertime now and I gotta rustle up some grub (not microwave meals).
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Nov 4, 2021 02:32
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tangy yet delightful posted:No plugs in the surrounding cabinets that I can find. I took off the faceplate that surrounded the microwave spot and still have more to take apart to move the microwave, still can't see a plug or cord but it's dinnertime now and I gotta rustle up some grub (not microwave meals). In our house the PO (or whomever the gently caress) hide the plug behind the microwave, so had to take it off to get to the plug...not ideal. It wasn't even in a workbox...just an outlet inside a hole in the drywall. So it could be almost flush with the wall. 
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Nov 4, 2021 03:21
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Rakeris posted:In our house the PO (or whomever the gently caress) hide the plug behind the microwave, so had to take it off to get to the plug...not ideal. It wasn't even in a workbox...just an outlet inside a hole in the drywall. So it could be almost flush with the wall. Yeah it ended up being a plug behind which is annoying but at least mine was a proper outlet I guess. I'll call the manufacturer tomorrow but I'm sure I'll get told to pound sand and then I'll start sourcing for a new one to fit the space.
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Nov 4, 2021 03:39
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my new fridge has one of those led strip panels, however it's a very high color temp (6000K+) blue light which I hate. I'm wondering if there's someway to have a "warmer" light. samsung says they don't have a different panel, but maybe I could find a different cover that would change the diffusion? or maybe there's some sort of... i dunno film? I could put on the cover to diffuse light? like something that's a very light yellow. any ideas? it looks like this
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Nov 4, 2021 04:56
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actionjackson posted:or maybe there's some sort of... i dunno film? I could put on the cover to diffuse light? like something that's a very light yellow. any ideas? In the stage lighting world, they're called gels. An orange or yellow sharpie might also do the trick. First Google result
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Nov 4, 2021 05:02
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Happiness Commando posted:In the stage lighting world, they're called gels. An orange or yellow sharpie might also do the trick. thanks - no idea which one I would select. I don't want to do anything permanent in case it doesn't work right (likely).
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Nov 4, 2021 05:06
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actionjackson posted:thanks - no idea which one I would select. I don't want to do anything permanent in case it doesn't work right (likely). Transparent Vinyl Tape with Self-Adhesive. (1/4 inch x 50 ft, Yellow) They probably have cheaper stuff at craft stores, too.
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Nov 4, 2021 13:27
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mr.belowaverage posted:Transparent Vinyl Tape with Self-Adhesive. (1/4 inch x 50 ft, Yellow) thanks, good idea! edit: sounds like despite what the other samsung rep said, they can come by and modify the LED somehow to a lower color temp. no idea how that works but I'm relieved! actionjackson fucked around with this message at 15:26 on Nov 4, 2021 |
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Nov 4, 2021 15:03
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What caulk would I use to re-caulk a kitchen sink? I want to say silicon is what I read is the answer, and there are several that are advertised for "kitchen and bath" use. Is there any more to it than that? Seems simple enough, but I don't want to put on something that's going to mold up right away and have to be redone. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 16:41 on Nov 4, 2021 |
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Nov 4, 2021 16:38
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