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I've spent the last few weeks trying to get rid of a pile of plywood scraps I accumulated from building some closet shelves. I upgraded my router table from a piece of plywood with hole in it to a real table.  It folds up nicely so I can store it on a shelf.  Doors support a couple of wings if I need some more support.  The top is also hinged to make easier adjustments. I also built a drill press table.  Now I am mostly free from scrap plywood. Meow Meow Meow fucked around with this message at 22:43 on Feb 7, 2022 |
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Feb 7, 2022 22:39
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His Divine Shadow posted:Oh yeah I finally finished that hifi shelf. Got the materials months ago but it just sat, I also just made it with butt joints instead of fingerjoints. I used shellac which I wiped on. I was going to go for a dark finish similar to the bookshelf. I am still experimenting with dark finishes on pine. I used ruby dewaxed shellac for this, but it turned out pretty darn light when I appled it with a rag. I really like those old silver-faced components. 70's era? Although you lot use 240v, right? so resistors half size, not as much heat as U.S. ones, not much heat at all probably. But those enclosures look really tight, so I'd have some sort of venting capacity.
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Feb 7, 2022 23:09
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They're early 80s models before the black look took over. Nothing special really, but I am not an audiophile, as long as it sounds fine it's good enough for me. The cassette deck hasn't really been used yet because I don't have all the other stuff, like proper speakers to bother with that. I've run the receiver for 15 minutes listening to radio last night as a test and could not feel any warmth from it. But I am gonna open it up more on the back side to make it easier to route cables.
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Feb 8, 2022 09:59
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The thermostat in my garage got stuck last night, so I woke up to an 81* garage. lovely for my electric bill, great for getting my rear end back out into the garage to do some stuff. I'm almost finished with these two spalted maple hall tables (that came from the same 8/4 board, so they match when paired up):  No glamour shots of them yet, I had just installed the legs, but the legs weren't painted. Once I got them into the house, I saw a bit of planer snipe through the finish, so I had to do some sanding through the Polyx topcoat.  Aaand... that was in the beginning of December. I need the space they're taking up in the garage, so I put another coat of Polyx on the top and, since I've got the legs painted, I should be able to get them ready for sale soon.
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Feb 8, 2022 16:01
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EVERYWHERE 
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I have 3 drawers that are screwed up from my pantry project too big, finishing nail blow out, etc. i am making a cabinet/tool chest to put under my workbench. The dream is put all my power tools and there accessories in it. A drawer for my sander and paper, a drawer for my drill and bits just sounds wonderful. Maybe if I do enough glue ups on the kitchen table my wife will let move from the garage to the basement.  Cheddar cheese and wood glue :chef-kiss:
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Feb 8, 2022 16:59
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His Divine Shadow posted:They're early 80s models before the black look took over. Nothing special really, but I am not an audiophile, as long as it sounds fine it's good enough for me. Good idea to open it up. You channel the tape deck through the receiver, no? edit- I assume there's audio threads that deal specifically with these questions, but here we go anyway....
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Feb 8, 2022 18:17
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I love seeing all of the box work and different woods everyone here uses. It motivates me to keep working on my list of small projects. Mostly, I’m ruining lots scrap wood but I’m having a ball doing it. I’ve only ever had open air ish work spaces but now my shop is in my basement so I think I should get a dust collector before I burn the house down. I missed out on a Jet helical head 6” jointer and matching dust collecter last month for $350 at an online auction so I’m still kicking myself about that. Does anyone use the 2hp horrible fright collector? https://www.harborfreight.com/2-hp-industrial-5-micron-dust-collector-97869.html Sounds like the bag/filter isn’t great but the rest is fine. ThirstyBuck fucked around with this message at 18:50 on Feb 8, 2022 |
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Feb 8, 2022 18:48
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ThirstyBuck posted:I love seeing all of the box work and different woods everyone here uses. It motivates me to keep working on my list of small projects. Mostly, I’m ruining lots scrap wood but I’m having a ball doing it. Yeah I have 2 of them, they're fine. Not great, but fine. Someone probably makes aftermarket filters, and that would probably make them better. E: wow I think they used to be a whole lot cheaper, but it looks the like the comparable Grizzly is like $550, so still probably the best DC per dollar out there. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 19:08 on Feb 8, 2022 |
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Feb 8, 2022 19:06
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Yeah I have 2 of them, they're fine. Not great, but fine. Someone probably makes aftermarket filters, and that would probably make them better. Yeah, at least one company makes big filters: https://wynnenv.com/product-category/woodworking-filters/35-series-merv-15/ The cheapest grizzly with a real filter looks like it's ~750, so you'd still save 250 or so after buying a nice filter. I bought my harbor freight using a 10% off coupon when it was still $209, so I spent about 170 before taxes.
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Feb 8, 2022 20:27
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I just splurged and bought the Rockler 750 CFM and went with their Dustright hoses/clamps/fittings pretty much all the way down. I need everything to be mobile, I'm not going to hard plumb anything, and I have a decent number of 2 1/2" port bench top tools that could benefit from higher volume airflow than the shop vac. I split the main inlet with a Y and have blast gates on each end, and then just collapsible flex hoses with the Dustright handles to connect to each tool. It's nice having both sides, because otherwise I constantly have to fish hoses under my table saw.
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Feb 8, 2022 20:36
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Any tips on removing all the final fine dust from some port orford cedar before I use penetrating oil on it and wet sand to finish? Microfiber? Shop vac was meh. I've had success not caring in the past but I'm curious what doing it right will lead to
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Feb 8, 2022 22:13
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Any tips on removing all the final fine dust from some port orford cedar before I use penetrating oil on it and wet sand to finish? Microfiber? Shop vac was meh. I've had success not caring in the past but I'm curious what doing it right will lead to Tak cloths. Not sure if they have the same name in the US as in the UK. They're just a slightly sticky cloth. Used in spray shops for exactly the reason you want.
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Feb 8, 2022 22:28
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serious gaylord posted:Tak cloths. Not sure if they have the same name in the US as in the UK. They're just a slightly sticky cloth. Used in spray shops for exactly the reason you want. This. You can also use mineral spirits on a rag, but tack cloths are great, cheap, and usable more than once.
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Feb 8, 2022 22:53
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more falafel please posted:This. You can also use mineral spirits on a rag, but tack cloths are great, cheap, and usable more than once. How many uses do you get out of one? I've beget bothered buying them because they seemed like one more consumable to throw away. FWIW I've had good luck with a shop vac with a brush attachment.
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Feb 8, 2022 22:59
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Any tips on removing all the final fine dust from some port orford cedar before I use penetrating oil on it and wet sand to finish? Microfiber? Shop vac was meh. I've had success not caring in the past but I'm curious what doing it right will lead to
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Feb 8, 2022 23:36
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I have good results from just spritzing a little mist onto an old sock and wiping the wood down. Not enough water to actually wet the wood (which will raise the grain unless you've already wet & sanded), just enough to help the cloth pick up dust. It doesn't seem to be any less effective than actual tack cloth from rockler, and you can rinse out the old sock and use it again.
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Feb 8, 2022 23:44
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For $2 at Wally World I was pretty happy with a tack cloth. Maybe if you're turning out a project every day it will add up, but I didn't see a reason to do anything different. Maybe I'm just paranoid of reintroducing suspended dust from blowing/vacuuming but it works well enough for me and is cheap.
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Feb 9, 2022 01:54
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I alternate between not caring and using an old t-shirt with mineral spirits. I definitely don't care if I'm using linseed oil or another wiping finish, as I usually with buff things after the finish is dry to remove dust nibs anyway.
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Feb 9, 2022 02:08
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serious gaylord posted:Tak cloths. Not sure if they have the same name in the US as in the UK. They're just a slightly sticky cloth. Used in spray shops for exactly the reason you want. This. Aka shammy cloth. Sold in all paint supply stores. They've got some sort of neutral resin on them, it seems.
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Feb 9, 2022 02:11
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Mineral spirits on a rag works well for me.
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Feb 9, 2022 02:19
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Do folks find that "odorless mineral spirits" work just as well as the regular kind, for all woodworking purposes?
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Feb 9, 2022 02:37
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Yes, mineral spirits are a collection of different petroleum solvents and the "odorless" is the same stuff that's refined to get rid of the stinky/nasty ones. \/\/ yeah it's still a can of solvent, wear gloves El Spamo fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Feb 9, 2022 |
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Feb 9, 2022 02:40
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Odorless still stinks btw.
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Feb 9, 2022 02:43
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Thanks for the tips, I'll try em all out and see what works for me. Mineral spirits on a cloth wont change anything about the surface or texture of a piece of sanded wood, or change how it takes oil? I'm not experienced with it.
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Feb 9, 2022 03:10
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Thanks for the tips, I'll try em all out and see what works for me. Mineral spirits on a cloth wont change anything about the surface or texture of a piece of sanded wood, or change how it takes oil? I'm not experienced with it. Nope, not at all. Its literally the last thing I do before I apply finish.
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Feb 9, 2022 03:35
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I usually blow off dust with an air compressor, but then again I don't usually sand finer than 200 grit, or wet-sand.
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Feb 9, 2022 03:44
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Mr. Mambold posted:Good idea to open it up. You channel the tape deck through the receiver, no? The plan is to connect the tape deck so it can play back to the receiver and so it can record from it. Though it's mostly for playing old cassette tapes for the fun of it, maybe digitize them, in which case I need to connect it to the computer.
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Feb 9, 2022 05:18
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I'm considering buying myself a premium plane. I use my stanley 4 and 5 all the time, but they're from the 1950's and the fit and finish are kinda annoying. I like the look of the veritas bevel up planes but have no experience with that style (other than a block plane), and the lie nielsens look super nice too. Any recs?
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Feb 9, 2022 13:05
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How many planes are you going to own? If you are a minimalist and want just a single plane to try and do everything, then a bevel up jack is probably the answer. Since you already have a #5 you can set up with a cambered blade for roughing tasks, you could get a try plane (#7-8) and a good smoother to habe a full range. My fav budget try plane option is the LV #6 and the LV Small Bevel Up Smoother. I own both and think they are great, but I won't argue that a LN #7 would make a better try plane.
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Feb 9, 2022 16:01
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mds2 posted:Nope, not at all. Its literally the last thing I do before I apply finish. Killer thanks a lot!
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Feb 9, 2022 17:08
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I've been making cutting boards lately and I'm finding myself using both #7 jointer with a curved iron, and a straight-ironed #8. After gluing up several boards of different species and different grain orientation, I work across the grain and/or diagonally with the curved iron, and then with the grain with the straight, and I'm gradually getting the knack of making the slab of wood perfectly flat that way. I'm also using my #3 a lot. Way more than I expected to. It's lighter than the #4 of course, which makes it not quite as good in terms of having momentum as I push along the edge of a board, but it feels more, I dunno, maneuverable? I can easily reverse it halfway along a board where the grain reverses, it's light enough to do stuff that I used to reach for a block plane to do, and it's wide enough for the boards I've been working on. I have a lot of planes now but if I had to pick 4, it'd be a #3, a #4 or maybe a 4 1/2, a #7 with a curved blade, and a #8. If I was adding a fifth, it'd be a block plane. e. Oh, for shooting I like a 5 or a 6 best. If I only had the above, I'd probably get a second iron for the #7 and grind it straight, just for shooting. I think a #4 is too short for shooting.
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Feb 9, 2022 18:07
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His Divine Shadow posted:The plan is to connect the tape deck so it can play back to the receiver and so it can record from it. Though it's mostly for playing old cassette tapes for the fun of it, maybe digitize them, in which case I need to connect it to the computer. /derail audio poo poo I did that for a while. You may not have to deal with a problem we have here of incipient humidity degrading the tape over the years into basically hot garbage. I had some 20+ year old tapes I really wanted to preserve. Over time, the oxide (or whatever) literally starts loosening and sticking to the prior wrap. I googled it and the "fix" is to heat the tape in a convection oven at a certain temp for a certain timeframe so it dries and restores the quality without melting the case. Sometimes I did melt the case, which required taking the tape out and putting it into a virgin case. Then record within as quick a timeframe as you can before it starts to degrade again.
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Feb 9, 2022 19:10
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GEMorris posted:My fav budget try plane option is the LV #6 and the LV Small Bevel Up Smoother. I own both and think they are great, but I won't argue that a LN #7 would make a better try plane. Can you comment on the small vs regular bevel up smoother? I‘ve had my eye on the latter because the blades are interchangeable with the low angle jack plane (which I have) but I’ve also seen you recommend the SBUS a lot in here.
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Feb 9, 2022 19:22
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Meow Meow Meow posted:I've spent the last few weeks trying to get rid of a pile of plywood scraps I accumulated from building some closet shelves. I upgraded my router table from a piece of plywood with hole in it to a real table. I love how this folds up. Any issues leveling out the wings with the table surface?
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Feb 9, 2022 21:58
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revtoiletduck posted:I love how this folds up. Any issues leveling out the wings with the table surface? It's hard to see in the pics, but there is a shim nailed to the bottom of each wing. I used a straightedge and milled up shims to attach and make sure it will be level every time I open them. Levelling it front to back was easy enough as well, when I screwed on the hinges I had the whole thing upside down on my tablesaw so everything should be as flat as that.
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Feb 9, 2022 22:44
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So I bought a wooden jointer plane ($12, couldn't pass it up) and the wedge that came with it has some hairline cracks in it. What kind of epoxy/filler/whatever should I use to fill the cracks and hopefully strenghten the wedge? Making a new wedge is probably above my skill level and seems like a major PITA besides. Also, the blade and chip breaker don't fit well in the throat, but apparently it's not uncommon for that to happen in the winter. I'll wait until the spring before I start modifying stuff, unless someone has a good source saying otherwise.
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Feb 10, 2022 03:28
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stranger danger posted:So I bought a wooden jointer plane ($12, couldn't pass it up) and the wedge that came with it has some hairline cracks in it. What kind of epoxy/filler/whatever should I use to fill the cracks and hopefully strenghten the wedge? Making a new wedge is probably above my skill level and seems like a major PITA besides. Yeah I recently bought a wood jack plane where I had to pry the blade/chip breaker out with a pair of pliers and some smacks with a mallet. Is it safe to pare down the inside of the cheeks a little with a chisel or rasp to open it up just enough to allow for adjustments in our extremely dry winters here?
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Feb 10, 2022 03:40
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korora posted:Can you comment on the small vs regular bevel up smoother? I‘ve had my eye on the latter because the blades are interchangeable with the low angle jack plane (which I have) but I’ve also seen you recommend the SBUS a lot in here. The SBUS is small and maneuverable, letting you focus on problem areas more directly than a larger plane would. It's like a #3 but without the cramped handle. If you have large hands you can often grip it like a block plane in many situations. Plus I feel like it's the most refined example of LVs somewhat erratic design language. It's also a bargain. That said, someone who owns the low angle jack is, imo of course, the only person who should be considering the regular bevel up smoother for exactly the reason you mentioned.
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Feb 10, 2022 03:46
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So...how would you finish a set of stained SPF/whitewood dog stairs? They will be putting adhesive backed carpet on it to give the dog more traction. I was looking into shellac for some of the stuff I do, but no idea how that would work here with something that will take dog claws daily. Please help, finishes scare me. Edit: Maybe an oil based polyurethane? They want as flat a finish as possible. Bondematt fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Feb 10, 2022 |
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Feb 10, 2022 03:50
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Bondematt posted:So...how would you finish a set of stained SPF/whitewood dog stairs? They will be putting adhesive backed carpet on it to give the dog more traction. I was looking into shellac for some of the stuff I do, but no idea how that would work here with something that will take dog claws daily. If it's being covered with carpet, you probably don't need any. Otherwise, the go-to finish for mundane stuff is water-based polyurethane.
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Feb 10, 2022 03:55
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