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Bad Munki posted:Cross-posting from plumbing: 18"? Every time I've done this it takes two people: one to bear hug the heater so it doesn't spin and the other person to operate the breaker bar with 30+ inches of pipe on it. I don't think you're providing nearly enough chooch right now.
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May 19, 2022 21:20
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Roger that, I’ll try again with a friend and an extension. I was wary of loving it up and finding myself staring down a new heater. Is the impact option likely to be bad news bears? Like, I’m willing to start there if that’s a better option.
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May 19, 2022 21:35
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I mean, you're always potentially staring down a new heater when you're doing this. It's the nature of the beast. If they were changed out more regularly it wouldn't be such a big deal, but they never are so welp. I've never tried an impact, mostly because I've never owned a battery impact worth a crap (I know it's definitely a thing now, but I still don't have one) and I've never been close enough to an air line to bother with it. I can't see why it would cause any issues, and might even be easier/better because you're not worrying about twisting the whole hater and moving pipes around.
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May 19, 2022 21:59
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mr.belowaverage posted:Does anyone make a commercial-style pull down faucet with a metal sprayer? I don’t want to spend a fortune, but even the more expensive models seem to have a plastic sprayer. They seem junky and have no heft. Google yields lots of ads and ‘best of’ lists with the same 3 brands. I like this guy Kraus KPF-1603SBBG Artec Pro 2-Function Commercial Style Pre-Rinse Kitchen Faucet with Pull-Down Spring Spout and Pot Filler, Black Stainless Steel/Brushed Gold https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081DK8Q6Z/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_G0399T69CR2TVZWXD2M4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 It has magnetic retention for the sprayer and if you actually use it that beats some of the other solutions on cheaper faucets. The negatives are true. The hose doesn't extend and that is a bummer, but I'm used to using restaurant sink sprayers at chest level anyway, so that doesn't really bother me too much. It is fully metal construction with a squeeze trigger spray. The spray locks on with a lift and turn. It stops and starts spraying instantly, no lovely plastic leaky trigger bullshit. Faucet rotates 360°. It is a fully one-hand operable pulldown-style faucet, which is what you want when you're actually washing dishes by hand. Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 22:19 on May 19, 2022 |
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May 19, 2022 22:09
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Motronic posted:I mean, you're always potentially staring down a new heater when you're doing this. It's the nature of the beast. If they were changed out more regularly it wouldn't be such a big deal, but they never are so welp. Buddy has a plug-in electric one, might give it a try.
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May 19, 2022 22:13
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has anyone here used gel-gloss on cultured marble? there are obviously a ton of super tiny scratches on my cultured marble vanity top, but there was one area that was really noticeable, mainly because of how the light hit it. So I used a bit of sandpaper lightly to get the scratches out, but of course the glossy finish is now gone as well. My understanding is that gel-gloss will restore this finish, and that you don't even necessarily need to sand first, just apply it on top right away. I think the sandpaper route is more for matte finishes
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May 20, 2022 16:02
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mr.belowaverage posted:Does anyone make a commercial-style pull down faucet with a metal sprayer? I don’t want to spend a fortune, but even the more expensive models seem to have a plastic sprayer. They seem junky and have no heft. Google yields lots of ads and ‘best of’ lists with the same 3 brands. I used to have a Kraus one that worked just fine, just not really my aesthetic https://www.kraususa.com/kitchen/kitchen-faucets/commercial-style-faucets.html?product_list_limit=36
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May 20, 2022 16:05
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actionjackson posted:I used to have a Kraus one that worked just fine, just not really my aesthetic Wasabi the J posted:I like this guy Thanks, both. I actually went with a Kraus Bolden as the quality/price point seemed the highest.  This is a one-hole model, and didn’t include the bottom deck plate, which I didn’t notice in the listing. I was able to salvage the deck plate from the old faucet, even though it’s sort of domed and hollow underneath, so I had to be careful tightening it down. Now it’s the nicest thing in this old cabin!
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May 20, 2022 18:24
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Post spoiler: I don't 100 percent understand the physics behind attics. Got a house in NC, built in the 80s. We moved in last fall, so this is our first summer in the house. Over the winter, the house seemed pretty well insulated. Heater didn't have to work very hard to keep us comfortable. AC compressor and the furnace are new (2020). As it warms up, the ac is really struggling to keep up. In thinking about it, it occurred to me that one of the projects I haven't gotten around to yet is fixing the attic ventilation fan. I get it's outside of the thermal envelope of the house, but it seems like having a hotbox right above my ceilings probably doesn't help? But heat rises, so maybe it doesn't matter?
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May 21, 2022 00:42
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It absolutely matters if you don't have proper soffits and a ridge vent. If you don't have those things your attic fan is pretty critical no only to your indoor temps but also to the life of your roof.
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May 21, 2022 00:48
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Motronic posted:It absolutely matters if you don't have proper soffits and a ridge vent. If you don't have those things your attic fan is pretty critical no only to your indoor temps but also to the life of your roof.
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May 21, 2022 01:17
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Slugworth posted:Not sure if there's a ridge vent. It's definitely on the fix it soon list for the purposes of keeping my attic from rotting, I just didn't know if it would also help with cooling the house. Properly sized ridge vent or attic fan, not both (attic fan doesn't work with a properly installed ridge vent, it just circulates a few feet of air for no good reason). The ridge vent more heavily depends on properly sized soffits.
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May 21, 2022 01:21
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Motronic posted:Properly sized ridge vent or attic fan, not both (attic fan doesn't work with a properly installed ridge vent, it just circulates a few feet of air for no good reason). The ridge vent more heavily depends on properly sized soffits.
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May 21, 2022 01:28
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Slugworth posted:I'll poke my head up and check for a ridge vent. Since the fan looks... Vintage, I'm assuming the attic was designed around it. Looks like I'll be waking up early to beat the heat and try to replace the fan before it gets smotheringly hot up there. The ridge vent is observable from the outside. It looks like someone stacked shingles along the apex of the roof.
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May 21, 2022 02:10
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If you've got soffit and gable vents, your roof is breathing & you don't need a ridge vent (although code in many areas likes to require it when you get a new roof).
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May 21, 2022 03:51
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My backpack is wearing out on the bottom here where it makes contact with my back. It's like this textured textile thing wrapped over a rubber cushion that you can see through the holes here.  Would a professional be able to replace and sew in new cover? Or I was thinking of just using some adhesive to add some thick leatherette or other patches in the wear areas.
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May 21, 2022 19:14
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I would go for one of those iron-on patches they make for jeans and jacket elbows and the like. I don't think it'd be worth the cost to pay a pro to fix a backpack unless that's like a $200 backpack or something.
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May 21, 2022 19:18
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Nearly ready to tile the walls of my shower area, and finding every DIY guide seems to have a different opinion on how to apply the thin-set mortar: (Ceramic tile, 12" horizontal x 9" vertical tiles, 3" offset per row, for reference) A) Most people recommend putting the mortar on the wall and using the notched trowel on this surface. B) A few guides have you mortaring and notching the tile itself (and leaving the wall clean). C) Some people suggest both: putting the mortar on the wall and notching it, and then putting a flat layer on the back of the tile, I guess in case wall mortar develops a skin before the tile goes up? My thin-set says a working time of two hours, but doesn't say how long it takes to develop a skin. On the one hand, just putting the thin-set on the tile would be handy, because I could make marks on the wall for tile offset positions. But this method feels like the most likely to suffer adhesion failure? I was leaning towards C, but wanted some opinions. One potential wrinkle is that I painted a moisture-membrane material on the walls, and now I'm wondering if I'll scratch that all up if I use the notched trowel on the walls. Bobulus fucked around with this message at 20:40 on May 21, 2022 |
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May 21, 2022 20:36
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I seem to recall buttering both sides for walls but it's been like 20 years since I did it. You shouldn't be applying more to the wall than you can comfortably reach with your hands from your current position. At 12x9 I would be doing 2 maybe 3 tiles worth maximum, but I work slow. If it was like 4x4's I might do 8? If it's some intricate decorative pattern probably one at a time. I always hit it with the side that makes the lines. Again, been 20 years. Make sure you give em a good squish when you put them up. Maybe some gentle tappy taps with a rubber mallet - not too close to the edges - if you feel like you can't get them level. Top hit on google seems to agree with me on number of tiles and allay the worry about scratching the redgard. Be gentle.  The 2 hrs is bucket time not wall time. https://peppershomeandgarden.com/tile-over-waterproof-membrane/ H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 20:48 on May 21, 2022 |
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May 21, 2022 20:44
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mobby_6kl posted:My backpack is wearing out on the bottom here where it makes contact with my back. It's like this textured textile thing wrapped over a rubber cushion that you can see through the holes here. Echoing the other poster, but also check out Tenacious Tape: https://www.gearaid.com/collections/tenacious-tape It's done well in the spots I've worn holes in my backpacking bag. It could be a little challenging to keep them stuck down from the looks of it, but it's worth trying.
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May 21, 2022 20:57
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nitsuga posted:Echoing the other poster, but also check out Tenacious Tape: https://www.gearaid.com/collections/tenacious-tape Leperflesh posted:I would go for one of those iron-on patches they make for jeans and jacket elbows and the like. I don't think it'd be worth the cost to pay a pro to fix a backpack unless that's like a $200 backpack or something.  But it's still probably a good idea to try the fast and cheap fix first like the patch or tape as you suggest here.
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May 21, 2022 21:08
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mobby_6kl posted:It is a Peak Design bag Oh! They offer a lifetime warranty I see. I’d send them an email and see what they can do. No harm in trying while you wait for the tape to show up or get out to the store.
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May 21, 2022 21:37
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Bobulus posted:Nearly ready to tile the walls of my shower area, and finding every DIY guide seems to have a different opinion on how to apply the thin-set mortar: Did my tub surround in November 2007. Buttered the walls, 3x3 section at a time, & threw 4" tile up straight onto Wonderboard. Repeat with next area. Nothing's come loose yet. nitsuga posted:Oh! They offer a lifetime warranty I see. I’d send them an email and see what they can do. No harm in trying while you wait for the tape to show up or get out to the store. Seconding: with something high-quality/expensive, particularly with an expressed lifetime warranty: contact the manufacturer & make a warranty claim.
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May 22, 2022 02:52
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if im gonna be snapping a chalk line solo on a concrete slab, tying the dumb end to a brick is the way to go, yes? id prefer not to make holes w a tapcon or nail
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May 22, 2022 11:03
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nitsuga posted:Oh! They offer a lifetime warranty I see. I’d send them an email and see what they can do. No harm in trying while you wait for the tape to show up or get out to the store. PainterofCrap posted:Seconding: with something high-quality/expensive, particularly with an expressed lifetime warranty: contact the manufacturer & make a warranty claim. They do have this on the warranty page so I wonder if they'll want to cover that, but definitely worth trying! Our Lifetime Warranty does not cover: Cosmetic blemishes, scratches, stains, or wear & tear
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May 22, 2022 12:36
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Motronic posted:Properly sized ridge vent or attic fan, not both (attic fan doesn't work with a properly installed ridge vent, it just circulates a few feet of air for no good reason). The ridge vent more heavily depends on properly sized soffits. Cribbing off this discussion...My attic is super warm and the upstairs bedrooms get 5-10 degrees warmer than the main level. Hvac tech was up there and suggested looking into soffits and venting since it was much warmer than outside. We have r30 in Michigan, r49 or 60 would be better tbh. Roofer looked (only from outside to count the soffits really but I've checked them and they have the little plastic shields so they don't get covered up by insulation) at it and said there's adequate soffits and we have a ridge vent but suggested a solar fan or attic fan. I was planning to get a fan installed to help vent it and block off part of the ridge vent near it... Is there a better solution?
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May 22, 2022 17:17
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mobby_6kl posted:Lol totally, I completely forgot they promise lifetime warrantay. Usually we get 2 years on everything and then you're hosed. You might as well ask. Lots of times these places will honor stuff just to keep you as a customer.
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May 22, 2022 17:48
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Saw this the other day but couldn't stop for a closer look. Friend went by this morning and the gap between the panels is about 3/16" and the panels seem to be about 1/2" thick, with no visible caulk or flashing. Any thoughts on what's preventing water intrusion, especially around the windows? Would love to do something similar on an upcoming project. 
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May 22, 2022 20:41
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mr.belowaverage posted:Thanks, both. I actually went with a Kraus Bolden as the quality/price point seemed the highest. that's the one i had you could always order the corresponding deck plate from them if you want
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May 22, 2022 20:43
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socketwrencher posted:Saw this the other day but couldn't stop for a closer look. Friend went by this morning and the gap between the panels is about 3/16" and the panels seem to be about 1/2" thick, with no visible caulk or flashing. Any thoughts on what's preventing water intrusion, especially around the windows? Would love to do something similar on an upcoming project. Could be nothing. Might be some sort of house wrap, I guess? Looks like they might just not have put the siding up yet, the stuff on the left.
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May 22, 2022 23:35
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socketwrencher posted:Saw this the other day but couldn't stop for a closer look. Friend went by this morning and the gap between the panels is about 3/16" and the panels seem to be about 1/2" thick, with no visible caulk or flashing. Any thoughts on what's preventing water intrusion, especially around the windows? Would love to do something similar on an upcoming project. Use the keyword "rainscreen" to look into what you're trying to acomplish.
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May 23, 2022 00:56
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Danhenge posted:Could be nothing. Might be some sort of house wrap, I guess? Looks like they might just not have put the siding up yet, the stuff on the left. Maybe so. I saw a tiny house where they used furring strips to create an air gap between the house wrap (might have been 30# felt) and the redwood slats that were used as the siding, the idea being that the air gap would allow the slats to dry out. Thanks for the feedback. glynnenstein posted:Use the keyword "rainscreen" to look into what you're trying to acomplish. Right on, thanks- I'll look into it.
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May 23, 2022 03:07
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H110Hawk posted:You might as well ask. Lots of times these places will honor stuff just to keep you as a customer. Never hurts to try of course. Their online warranty process wants the order number and a photo fo the receipt which after several years I can't find of course. Thinking of uploading goatse.
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May 24, 2022 18:31
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mobby_6kl posted:Never hurts to try of course. Their online warranty process wants the order number and a photo fo the receipt which after several years I can't find of course. Thinking of uploading goatse.
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May 25, 2022 00:18
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Slugworth posted:Ridgid and Ryobi are doing this poo poo now too to register tools, but also neither site will accept a photo from my phone, because the filesize is too large. Change the resolution setting before taking the picture maybe?
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May 25, 2022 00:36
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Final Blog Entry posted:Change the resolution setting before taking the picture maybe?
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May 25, 2022 01:53
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My fridge is making a periodic relay-clicking sound that worries me. Crucially though, it's still working just fine. Currently the compressor/fan is on and sounds nice and quiet and normal. But every once in a while, maybe every few minutes, I hear what sounds like a relay click, then for about 10-20s there is an additional low, quiet hum, then relay click again and hum is gone. All the while the fan is running uninterrupted and sounds fine. Icemaker seems to be working fine so I don't think it's that. Also happens if the icemaker is disabled. Googling only shows me problems where the fridge is not working. I can't find any answers for if the fridge is working. I'm just worried that it could be a portent of something starting to fail. Any thoughts on what I should check? e: it's a kitchenaid krfc300 if anyone wants specifics.
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May 25, 2022 15:05
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I'm putting in new LVP flooring in my living room. Right now there is a 42" gas fireplace floor level, so the flooring in front is ceramic tile in a 2 x 6 rectangle of flooring. I would like to "raise" the fireplace up as needed (maybe 6"?), so that I can remove the tile and just have LVP. I figured I would just use CMU block and have a steel plate or large tile assembly or something to size so the fireplace isn't exposed to the void created by raising it up. I can tile, I just would prefer to have uninterrupted LVP because I think it looks nicer. Am I creating a ton of work for myself and don't realize it?
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May 26, 2022 23:21
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Dial M for MURDER posted:I'm putting in new LVP flooring in my living room. Right now there is a 42" gas fireplace floor level, so the flooring in front is ceramic tile in a 2 x 6 rectangle of flooring. I would like to "raise" the fireplace up as needed (maybe 6"?), so that I can remove the tile and just have LVP. I don't have a fireplace so YMMV, but it occurs to me that LVP would be liable to warping in front of a fireplace assuming it sees use and thus leaving in the tile would be a better option.
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May 27, 2022 14:16
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Yeah I am definitely worried about heat damaging the floor. That why I was hoping that lifting it off the floor would be enough to protect it. Maybe I'll just tile it again so I don't have to worry about it. Thanks for the help.
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May 27, 2022 21:41
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