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BIG-DICK-BUTT-FUCK
Jan 26, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

nwin posted:

Is there anything difficult about choosing a type of carpet or installer? When I’ve rented, my landlord just went with the cheapest carpet at Home Depot or lowes, but my new house needs new carpet in three bedrooms and I’d like to not cheap out on it because I’d like it to last 10+ years.

Home Depot has some decent stuff (lifeproof) with a 15 year warranty but it’s $4 / square foot and I don’t know if that’s reasonable or not.

$2-3/sqft for decent commercial grade carpet installed is the going rate here. Maybe they use really high end stuff but I bet you could find a better deal without much extra work

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peanut
Sep 9, 2007


Sous Videodrome posted:

I just learned about smart water shutoff valves. I like the idea of something that will shut off water to the house in case of a leak. But I don't want it connected to the internet. I don't want an app, and I don't want to have to pay for a subscription. Is there such a thing? Are they called something besides "smart water shutoff"?

"Smart" implies an internet connection or a sensor. What kind of function are you expecting?

Sous Videodrome
Apr 9, 2020

Just shutting off the water if it detects a leak condition.

El Mero Mero
Oct 13, 2001

Harriet Carker posted:

How? I can screw the screw into the drywall no problem, but I can't make a hole big enough for the anchor.

Thanks to all for the drill recommendations!

A hole in drywall is just that. If you have a nail or larger screw slightly larger than the mounting screw you can use that and seat the anchor.

El Mero Mero fucked around with this message at 23:17 on May 31, 2022

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik

devmd01 posted:

I’ll sod this in in the spring.



Put sod in two weeks ago, it’s already bedded in nicely thanks to the topsoil and lots of rain. Like it was never there! (In about another year).

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
First of all, I'm fully in agreement about not wanting to use poisons. I think I had dead mice in my walls at my old apartment and the smell was awful and persisted for quite some time.

Next question is what about this product. The active ingredient is corn gluten meal and table salt-- but my understanding is still that this effectively poisons them by somehow causing them to stop drinking water which seems pretty gruesome and slow. I only ask about this product because it was what someone pointed to at Lowe's when I was looking for the conventional snap traps.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/ratx-throw-packs-12-oz-box-620108


SubponticatePoster posted:

I can't weigh in on the cost, but I can give you some advice in general speaking as a former animal control officer (we didn't respond to these kinds of complaints but we would give people advice on how to handle them).

If you are planning on removing all the insulation and do other repairs, I would do that first. The noise and activity is going to spook them out of there, at least temporarily. It will also make it easier to see where they're coming in from and give you access to those areas for repair/exclusion. The exclusion is absolutely something you can do yourself with minimal materials/labor once you've got a clear working space.

Mice vs rats: mouse poo poo is about the size of a caraway seed. Rat poo poo is about the size of a grain of orzo. If you've got mice, there are other things to consider like is hantavirus a thing in your area? If it is then you've moved from "remove icky insulation" to "remove a biohazard." The insulation should be dampened with a bleach/water solution before it gets sucked up so it doesn't disperse aerosolized virus all through your house and whoever is working up there needs to wear an N95 respirator. You don't have to get the stuff sopping, but damp enough that it suppresses dust. A yard sprayer will work fine for this. Once the area is cleaned out you can do exclusion. You want to block any holes completely and seal up cracks. A small square of regular window screen or the mesh you use for mudding attached firmly with staples or tacks glooped over with expanding foam makes for a good barrier. If they've somehow managed to chew a huge hole, patch it with a piece of plywood or sheet metal on both the inside and outside of the house that's an inch or so larger than the diameter.

If you aren't able to get your insulation replaced any time soon and need to take care of the problem immediately I personally would never use poison bait. But especially in a home with pets or small children. If you're a softy or the squeamish type who doesn't want to resort to murder, you can get live traps that are meant for small critters, like Havahart. Maybe at the local IFA or feed store if those are around or somewhere on the internet. If you don't mind going :black101: on rodent rear end then get the old fashioned spring snapper types. Glue traps are horrible and inhumane, plus then you have to dispose of them with a most-likely-still-alive rodent attached. I'd take care of the problem myself if it were me, but if you want to hire someone find a place that uses traps.

Comedy option: go catch some rat snakes and let them loose in the attic.


BonerGhost posted:

I can't speak to their rates, but I personally would never pay someone to encourage animals to die and rot in my walls in any climate, let alone humid Austin, especially if they're not going to prevent the drat things getting in. Trapping has its controversies but it's not going to remotely be effective if you don't close the holes. Might be time to get on the ol' YouTube and start looking up pest control accounts to get some tips on finding and sealing entrances. Even if you truly have rats and not mice, the holes will be smaller than you expect (mice are like ghosts, so you have to look for their poop). Even my fat rear end 650gm pet rats could get under a door gap of about an inch. If it were me, to minimize the carcasses in my house, I would first trap and then seal the holes, because if you seal up the place with them inside, they're probably still going to die in there. Wild rodents are rude as hell and spread disease so you have to do what you have to do, but that's a smell you just don't forget and it's not fun to have in your house. "Only a few days" is a bald-faced lie, and EPA mandates that bromadiolone be used in tamper proof/resistant bait stations in just about every application except putting it next to a rat burrow, so idk why they're suggesting they might not need them.

I'm obviously biased against poisons, but I really could not find any literature that suggests bromadiolone (second gen anticoagulant) is any better than the first gen poisons containing warfarin and the like (d-con before they changed the formula around 2015), and if anything it might be worse for local wildlife and pets. Compared to warfarin, the one he wants to use has a fatal dose 2.5 to 200 times smaller, still takes 3 to 7 days for the target animals to die, and the toxic pet dose is around 10% of that dose. I don't know what he means by organic poison alternatives, but first and second gen anticoagulant poisons have the same antidote, which is daily vitamin K by mouth or injection for at least a month but up to six weeks, and about the same amount of time to catch signs of poisoning, which is about 3 to 7 days. It also keeps showing up in wildlife poisoning, so his 'very low chance of secondary poisoning' sounds like bullshit to me.

Thank you for allowing me to venture down this rabbit rat hole, I am procrastinating packing for an overseas move. That is all.

Good points about cleaning/removing the insulation before doing exclusion. Presumably this service that I was going to hire to vacuum out the insulation and air seal the house is familiar with safe practices on removing old insulation. I assume they would wet it down for their own benefit, but I suppose it is a question I can ask.

I'm getting another pest control person to come by my house tomorrow to give me a quote or take a look at the issues. From his website he states he does not use poisons, which is my preference.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Toebone posted:

My kitchen has some crummy old fluorescent light panels in the drop ceiling (2’ x 2’) that I’d like to replace with LED panels. Any brands / retailers I should look into?
Other than replace the whole thing and not just the bulbs? Not really. Personally, I'd take a look at costco (both online and in store) and see what they have. That way if they suck or you hate them, you have easy recourse. Be sure you know what temp/color you are getting. I might be weird, but Nothing looks worse than having some super pure white 5500K+ bulb and everything else in the house is 2700k warm/soft.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

SubponticatePoster posted:

Very important vertebrate pest control stuff

There was a whole thing where I was asked to start a thread on pest control, vertebrates are not my thing I'm an ag/herbicide person any interest in just paying attention to this in case you can contribute please and thank you?

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3944991

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
I finally stepped foot into my local tool library today. Holy poo poo what a cool place. $50 suggested donation to become a member. They host classes on all kinds of topics, have a wood shop you can book for private use, lots of tools and other stuff. Yard, auto, general diy, etc. Super awesome place.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

That is a super cool idea. I didn't know that kind of thing existed.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Verman posted:

I finally stepped foot into my local tool library today. Holy poo poo what a cool place. $50 suggested donation to become a member. They host classes on all kinds of topics, have a wood shop you can book for private use, lots of tools and other stuff. Yard, auto, general diy, etc. Super awesome place.



What country?

PremiumSupport
Aug 17, 2015

VelociBacon posted:

Highly recommend this Dewalt 20v Max drill set.

I have it plus some other dewalt stuff and I'm very happy with all of it. I've worked construction for years in my past and this drill feels as good as anything I ever handled on a job site or in the shop. It has a clutch feature which is handy for quickly getting fasteners seated and ready for torquing down, has good LED coverage where you're drilling, just nice product for absurdly cheap.

e: don't forget that you'll also want a little set of bits as well as probably a matching bit holder and matching screwdriver bit set and this and this and this.


BonoMan posted:

Yeah this is the drill I have. I love it.

Thirding this. I also have this drill and it is a wonderful tool. Small, light, and balanced enough that it's not a strain on my wrists to use yet powerful enough to drive 3" screws through pressure-treated lumber with ease.

Sir Lemming
Jan 27, 2009

It's a piece of JUNK!
I've deleted a much more long-winded draft of this post and distilled it down to what I hope is a pretty straightforward question:

I want to attach something to an exterior windowsill, and the easiest way to do that would be to drill into the sill -- but that won't work because it's not wood, but vinyl or some sort of composite. Without getting too in the weeds of trying to describe my windows, is there a well-known solution to this dilemma that I might be overlooking?

I've considered window box planter brackets, but unfortunately these windows also have a bit of a lip, so I don't know if those will work. I kind of want to do something like just Velcro taping a piece of wood to the sill and drilling into that. But a not awful version of that.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?

VelociBacon posted:

What country?

US, Seattle.

I moved to my neighborhood about a year ago when we bought our first house. I drove by this place often on my way through the neighborhood but they keep odd hours and I didn't have a specific reason to go in. I've already got a good deal of tools, but being a new home owner comes all sorts of new projects I'm not equipped for. There's a certain amount of tools I want to own because they get used often, but I don't want to invest in things I might only use once or twice, like a pex crimper or a tile saw. The only thing is all their powered tools are all battery or corded electric, no gas. I needed a tiller for redoing my yard and all they had was a small plug in which would have been a huge pain. I ended up finding a good deal on a husqvarna for what it would have cost me to rent for a weekend. Overall I think its going to be great when we start to redo the house in the next few years and I'm honestly surprised this isn't more of a thing.

PremiumSupport
Aug 17, 2015

Sir Lemming posted:

I've deleted a much more long-winded draft of this post and distilled it down to what I hope is a pretty straightforward question:

I want to attach something to an exterior windowsill, and the easiest way to do that would be to drill into the sill -- but that won't work because it's not wood, but vinyl or some sort of composite. Without getting too in the weeds of trying to describe my windows, is there a well-known solution to this dilemma that I might be overlooking?

I've considered window box planter brackets, but unfortunately these windows also have a bit of a lip, so I don't know if those will work. I kind of want to do something like just Velcro taping a piece of wood to the sill and drilling into that. But a not awful version of that.

How much does this something weigh?

Your fastening options depend greatly on the answer to this question. If it's light enough, there's an exterior version of the 3M Command Strips that I'd look at before attempting the wood+velcro solution. If it's too heavy for Command Strips then you probably need to attach it to structure somehow.

Sir Lemming
Jan 27, 2009

It's a piece of JUNK!

PremiumSupport posted:

How much does this something weigh?

Your fastening options depend greatly on the answer to this question. If it's light enough, there's an exterior version of the 3M Command Strips that I'd look at before attempting the wood+velcro solution. If it's too heavy for Command Strips then you probably need to attach it to structure somehow.

It's a pretty small hummingbird feeder. Not sure how much it weighs when filled with liquid, but it actually comes with suction cups meant to attach to window glass, so it can't be that heavy.
However, since it's a second floor double-sash window with a sliding half-screen which I still want to be able to open sometimes, I'm trying to figure out something different. The suction cups are not pre-attached, it also comes with screws that you're free to drill into either the suction cups or something else.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Sir Lemming posted:

I've deleted a much more long-winded draft of this post and distilled it down to what I hope is a pretty straightforward question:

I want to attach something to an exterior windowsill, and the easiest way to do that would be to drill into the sill -- but that won't work because it's not wood, but vinyl or some sort of composite. Without getting too in the weeds of trying to describe my windows, is there a well-known solution to this dilemma that I might be overlooking?

I've considered window box planter brackets, but unfortunately these windows also have a bit of a lip, so I don't know if those will work. I kind of want to do something like just Velcro taping a piece of wood to the sill and drilling into that. But a not awful version of that.
Do you have a photo you can post of your window/sill/frame?

Sir Lemming
Jan 27, 2009

It's a piece of JUNK!

slidebite posted:

Do you have a photo you can post of your window/sill/frame?

2 of these are actually the 2nd-story window, the other one is ground level since it was easier to get an exterior shot there obviously. They are all pretty much identical as far as I know, any size or form factor differences would be negligible.





(This might also shed light on why I'm trying not to do the suction cup thing -- it's overly long to explain it in words, but I think you can vizualize how it would either be a pain to maintain it, or just very awkwardly positioned.)

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



VelociBacon posted:

What country?

Guessing this is tool 'library', meaning this is a private organization not anything government run. Like a 'maker space' which had their heyday a few years back. Also guessing it is good old USA.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Inner Light posted:

Guessing this is tool 'library', meaning this is a private organization not anything government run. Like a 'maker space' which had their heyday a few years back. Also guessing it is good old USA.

I guess I'm surprised to see a socialist solution in the states. I moved about a month ago into a condo that has a communal workshop in the basement parking area and it's been fantastic.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

VelociBacon posted:

I guess I'm surprised to see a socialist solution in the states. I moved about a month ago into a condo that has a communal workshop in the basement parking area and it's been fantastic.

They don't usually last long in my experience. Misuse and abuse of tools destroys the ones that aren't immediately stolen when new. Without decent tools available nobody wants to keep it going.

That was my experience in 2015 or so though, maybe things got better.

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


If you're ready to drill into window sills, how about mounting a bracket higher up next to or above the window so you can hang the feeder in a visible place? My uncle has his hanging from the gutter.

Stick-on hooks are always great, 3M has some for outdoor use like xmas lights. There are also old school hooks that you heat the adhesive with a lighter that can attach to textured surfaces.

https://www.target.com/c/wall-hooks-hook-racks-hardware-home-improvement/adhesive-hooks/-/N-5xtt4Z35wwv

Eason the Fifth
Apr 9, 2020
Anybody have an oil-fired furnace? When I bought the house in December the inspector suggested I get a service contract with a local oil supplier during the summer to lock in a low price. At first glance this seems like an obviously good idea because prices probably aren't getting cheaper anytime soon, but I have no experience in this area so I don't know if that's actually a pratfall for some reason. Anyone here have any wisdom?

majour333
Mar 2, 2005

Mouthfart.
Fun Shoe
I got absolutely hosed on oil prices in april during a cold snap in new england. Do it.

El Mero Mero
Oct 13, 2001

Verman posted:

I finally stepped foot into my local tool library today. Holy poo poo what a cool place. $50 suggested donation to become a member. They host classes on all kinds of topics, have a wood shop you can book for private use, lots of tools and other stuff. Yard, auto, general diy, etc. Super awesome place.



My local library runs a Kitchen appliance and tool lending library that is just incredible. it's loving fantastic and has saved me thousands of dollars.

Basically every time I have a project where I need a "one-off" tool I just check it out from there instead of buying something. They also lend ladders in basically every size, which means I only need 1 ladder of my own.

If I check out a tool more than like a dozen times I just go ahead and buy it at that point.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words

Eason the Fifth posted:

Anybody have an oil-fired furnace? When I bought the house in December the inspector suggested I get a service contract with a local oil supplier during the summer to lock in a low price. At first glance this seems like an obviously good idea because prices probably aren't getting cheaper anytime soon, but I have no experience in this area so I don't know if that's actually a pratfall for some reason. Anyone here have any wisdom?
That is what New Englanders do fwiw

e: strongly recommend knowing a guy. if one is your cousin or your husband, even better

Anne Whateley fucked around with this message at 03:11 on Jun 2, 2022

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

Eason the Fifth posted:

Anybody have an oil-fired furnace? When I bought the house in December the inspector suggested I get a service contract with a local oil supplier during the summer to lock in a low price. At first glance this seems like an obviously good idea because prices probably aren't getting cheaper anytime soon, but I have no experience in this area so I don't know if that's actually a pratfall for some reason. Anyone here have any wisdom?

You will be lucky to find anybody locking in a rate that isn't basically thievery right now. It's tough.

I'm counting the days till I can shitcan my oil company and at least try for a new one. They unilaterally informed me today that they were enrolling me in a "budget protection plan" so they could charge me all summer for oil they'd deliver this winter (but don't forget, if the price of oil goes up, we'll take more money this summer too!). Eat my entire rear end, shitheads.

Phil Moscowitz
Feb 19, 2007

If blood be the price of admiralty,
Lord God, we ha' paid in full!

Verman posted:

I finally stepped foot into my local tool library today. Holy poo poo what a cool place. $50 suggested donation to become a member. They host classes on all kinds of topics, have a wood shop you can book for private use, lots of tools and other stuff. Yard, auto, general diy, etc. Super awesome place.



This is awesome, is that a one time donation? Do you check stuff out or use it there only?

I want to take pictures of my local small hardware stores. There’s one within a couple blocks and the other a bike ride away and they’re both classic. The one down the street looks like my tool shed just slightly more organized and much bigger yet no more spacious. The roll up doors are always open and there’s always at least three guys up front that are super nice and obviously seem like they huff glue on the weekend. love that place.

Harriet Carker
Jun 2, 2009

Thank you all to who recommended drills! I got the Dewalt set and some drill bits and drilled the first holes of my life today. It went very well and my customer is pleased.

Eason the Fifth
Apr 9, 2020

Anne Whateley posted:

That is what New Englanders do fwiw

Yep, I live in the region. Moved here in 2017 but just bought the house end of last year.


tracecomplete posted:

You will be lucky to find anybody locking in a rate that isn't basically thievery right now. It's tough.

I'm counting the days till I can shitcan my oil company and at least try for a new one. They unilaterally informed me today that they were enrolling me in a "budget protection plan" so they could charge me all summer for oil they'd deliver this winter (but don't forget, if the price of oil goes up, we'll take more money this summer too!). Eat my entire rear end, shitheads.

Thanks for the heads up on this one

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?

Phil Moscowitz posted:

This is awesome, is that a one time donation? Do you check stuff out or use it there only?

I want to take pictures of my local small hardware stores. There’s one within a couple blocks and the other a bike ride away and they’re both classic. The one down the street looks like my tool shed just slightly more organized and much bigger yet no more spacious. The roll up doors are always open and there’s always at least three guys up front that are super nice and obviously seem like they huff glue on the weekend. love that place.

It's a one time suggested donation. You can always donate more or less if you want. They're also accepting of tool donations and volunteering.

When you check tools out, you get them for a full week. You can extend tools if someone hasn't requested/wait listed it. They have late fees but it sort of sounds like they're very lenient about forcing any payment. Also tools are free to use. No real limit on what you can borrow at once.

They've been open for 10+ years from what I recall. The place is busy every time they're open. Lots of community engagement, lots of volunteers who all seem incredibly patient, outgoing and willing to help with whatever you need. They operate as a non profit so making money isn't their thing.

Sir Lemming
Jan 27, 2009

It's a piece of JUNK!

peanut posted:

If you're ready to drill into window sills, how about mounting a bracket higher up next to or above the window so you can hang the feeder in a visible place? My uncle has his hanging from the gutter.

Stick-on hooks are always great, 3M has some for outdoor use like xmas lights. There are also old school hooks that you heat the adhesive with a lighter that can attach to textured surfaces.

https://www.target.com/c/wall-hooks-hook-racks-hardware-home-improvement/adhesive-hooks/-/N-5xtt4Z35wwv

Y'know, maybe I'm going about this all wrong -- I'm wondering if I can actually get the suction cups to stick to the windowsill somehow. I'm guessing it won't work very well on the vinyl itself. But maybe something like packing tape to create a more suction cup-friendly surface? Or maybe use 3m adhesive strips to mount a plastic rectangle (or I guess metal or glass if I could find it) and then stick to that. I think I may try something like that.

(Hanging it isn't an option, it's not that kind of feeder. It's meant to be mounted as a platform which provides a clear view of the hummingbirds.)

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


Suction cups suck,




literally and figuratively in a bad way. They are likely to warp in the sun. Use 3M products.

Justa Dandelion
Nov 27, 2020

[sobbing] Look at the circles under my eyes. I haven't slept in weeks!

Branch fell and took out a chunk of fence two weeks ago. It was on a telecom line and I didn't want to gently caress with potentially damaging expensive equipment so I've been waiting for Comcast to come out and move the branch. Probably stupid to wait, but they came yesterday to move the branch. Now I can chop up the giant tree branch and fix my fence and that's p cool :cool:.

Ornery and Hornery
Oct 22, 2020

VelociBacon posted:

Highly recommend this Dewalt 20v Max drill set.

I have it plus some other dewalt stuff and I'm very happy with all of it. I've worked construction for years in my past and this drill feels as good as anything I ever handled on a job site or in the shop. It has a clutch feature which is handy for quickly getting fasteners seated and ready for torquing down, has good LED coverage where you're drilling, just nice product for absurdly cheap.

e: don't forget that you'll also want a little set of bits as well as probably a matching bit holder and matching screwdriver bit set and this and this and this.

love it

smax
Nov 9, 2009

I’m looking for some input on a shelving issue. I have this:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Project-Source-Heavy-Duty-5-Tier-Storage-Shelving-Boltless-48Wx24Dx72H-Powder-Coated-Grey/1002864606

Basically, it’s a shelving unit with five 24” x 48” shelves with 1/4” particle board decking.

Problem: I live in the Houston area and this is in my garage. The decking is sagging as it dies a slow, painful death to the humidity.

What’s the most cost-effective solution for replacing these with heavy gauge steel wire/mesh decking? Each shelf will need to hold a few hundred pounds of stuff evenly distributed over the shelf. All of the pre-made wire decking inserts are expensive and on backorder.

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000


Ultra Carp
Find a local metal distributor or machine shop that will cut it for you. You might have to call or walk in and talk to someone.

I use onlinemetals.com but I can do local pickup, shipping is expensive.

1/2 inch plywood will be an adequate replacement as well, tho

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Half-inch or 3/4” plywood

MDF and OSB are abominations that should be fired into the sun.

SubponticatePoster
Aug 9, 2004

Every day takes figurin' out all over again how to fuckin' live.
Slippery Tilde

Motronic posted:

There was a whole thing where I was asked to start a thread on pest control, vertebrates are not my thing I'm an ag/herbicide person any interest in just paying attention to this in case you can contribute please and thank you?

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3944991
Sure! I ask enough questions in this subforum that I'm honor-bound to assist someone else if I can :v:

That tool library is awesome, wish there was something like that around me. There also used to be DIY garages with lifts and stuff you could rent but they've all gone out of business which sucks.

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Harriet Carker
Jun 2, 2009

I'm trying to loosen my bathroom faucet handle cartridges and the nut is stuck. I saw you can use vinegar to dissolve the built up mineral deposits, but I can't immerse/soak it, so I've just been pouring some on and letting it sit. So far, it's still just as tight as when I started. Are there any other techniques I should try?

Edit: I got it! Used a hair drier to heat it up and it came right off.

Now, I don’t know the brand and I need a replacement cartridge. Can I just pop in the thing that looks the closest at Home Depot?

Edit 2: I found a product code etched into the cartridge and found a matching pair! Finished installing and I’m drip free.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Harriet Carker fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Jun 4, 2022

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