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Calidus posted:a contractor SawStop. Yeah get this unless you're too wo/manly for thumbs. And yes one or two able bodied friends can easily get a table saw where it needs to go unless your driveway is a stupid slope. If you were talking about an massive band saw or something that is ballasted to the ground that's potentially a different story. I wouldn't worry about it, but do clear your driveway and try to let them back in. Some ex-coworkers just bought a forklift because they got sick of trying to rent one on almost no notice when trucks would arrive. 
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Oct 3, 2022 19:01
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| # ? May 28, 2024 18:43 |
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Calidus posted:I am flipping flopping between the delta contractor saw, Laguna Fusion F1/F2 and a contractor SawStop. well, is the difference in cost more or less than you value your fingers
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Oct 3, 2022 21:16
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fwiw I unloaded, moved, and assembled my bandsaw by myself.
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Oct 3, 2022 21:57
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:If you have the supply yeah, go for it. Double the voltage means half the amperage so you can use smaller wire etc. 220 plugs can be much more expensive, depending on the amperage. Typically change a couple tabs. Always be using 240v, less amperage means motor runs cooler, lasts longer, the cost of the plug shouldn't be a deterrent.
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Oct 3, 2022 22:39
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CommonShore posted:fwiw I unloaded, moved, and assembled my bandsaw by myself. Same, in my case a 19'' Grizzly at about 450lb, that's a lot of weight but still within the bounds of what one person(2 is safer) can "walk" onto a handtruck and once its on wheels its no problem as long as you're not dealing with stairs or steep slopes. Unless you're buying them assembled either of those contractor/hybrid saws shouldn't be a huge issue either since you don't need to move it all in one lift. I bought that Delta and got help loading it at the store but once I was home I just opened the box still in the vehicle and moved everything piece by piece inside.
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Oct 4, 2022 05:02
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Elem7 posted:Same, in my case a 19'' Grizzly at about 450lb, that's a lot of weight but still within the bounds of what one person(2 is safer) can "walk" onto a handtruck and once its on wheels its no problem as long as you're not dealing with stairs or steep slopes. Unless you're buying them assembled either of those contractor/hybrid saws shouldn't be a huge issue either since you don't need to move it all in one lift. I bought that Delta and got help loading it at the store but once I was home I just opened the box still in the vehicle and moved everything piece by piece inside. In my case it was a 14" rikkon at probably the same weight, partially disassembled when it came. I opened the box in the back of my truck, took the parts out one at a time, and then used some chocks and sawhorses to get it upright once it was together.
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Oct 4, 2022 20:53
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Festool is coming out with battery-powered (2x18V for total 36V, if the auto-translation is to be trusted) systainer-scale jobsite saw with all kinds of electronic adjustment and memory features. Here's a... parking lot demo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BThNVf8TfmY The video occasionally flips on the X axis for (probably very French) reasons but you still get an idea of what it's about. It's not called out, but I doubt it has SawStop tech built in. My table saw experience is limited to ancient DeWalts (my own) and newer cabinet SawStops (at makerspaces) so I've ever seen a table saw with controls that are so digital. I imagine that's the way of the future. In conclusion: 
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Oct 4, 2022 21:22
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I realize old timers would beat me for saying this but I don’t understand why fences aren’t controlled via servo.
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Oct 4, 2022 22:34
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Calidus posted:I realize old timers would beat me for saying this but I don’t understand why fences aren’t controlled via servo. Another step in the long line of increasing precision in an inherently imprecise medium such as wood. It seems to me that people are continually bringing metalworking machining tools and techniques into the wood shop except that the thing you are cutting changes size and wants to warp throughout the seasons or even day to day as humidity levels change. I guess it's fine since prices of metalworking stuff continues to get cheaper so it's not as cost prohibitive to use that stuff for woodworking now but it still feels like fighting an uphill battle to be bringing micrometers, calipers, gauge blocks, cnc adjustments, etc. to be cutting stuff that's going to be losing that precision the next day as you expose fresh surfaces that are going to potentially bring warping or shrinkage. edit: Probably a better reason is because a lot of table saws and such are used by contractors/framers and such that just don't need that level of precision. So for them, it's just an un-needed expense. I think fine woodworking is a relatively small market so there's less money for manufacturers to chase with fancy/expensive features like digitally controlled fences. Squibbles fucked around with this message at 23:09 on Oct 4, 2022 |
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Oct 4, 2022 23:06
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There is a certain market for metal machining precision woodworking machines (ie people with both severe engineer brain and a lot of money). It's not a big market though. For most applications it's just an unneeded expense and/or thing that can break, and most people who actually understand that wood is an inherently unstable material know it's just folly to chase thousands precision. Not to mention that even with handtools you can hit 0.5 mm precision with some practice & experience. edit: beaten like a cheap chisel
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Oct 4, 2022 23:27
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Calidus posted:I realize old timers would beat me for saying this but I don’t understand why fences aren’t controlled via servo. That kind of precision and repeatability makes alot of sense in production work where interchangeable parts that really match and the ability to reliably repeat setups are important, but it really isn't all that important for most folks at home. There are certainly retired guys with $50k Martin sliders in their garages happily making very precise furniture though! I never thought I wanted a DRO on anything, but my planer came with one and I love it because if I mill some stuff and find out I need another board or mess something up I can plane another one to the exact thickness again, and don't have to redo other machine setups to a slightly different size board. It's a nice luxury but I certainly existed quite happily without it for many years.
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Oct 5, 2022 00:47
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If you go back a few years one topic that came up constantly with regards to table saws (at least the ones with a price tag most mortals can actually afford, not second mortgage SCMs) is that fences rarely locked down parallel reliably. Still an issue probably on most cheaper ones. In a field where everything is cost-engineered to meet a certain price tag features like servo control are a pipe-dream outside the industrial production machines KS mentions where it is a hard requirement.
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Oct 5, 2022 02:18
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Just Winging It posted:There is a certain market for metal machining precision woodworking machines (ie people with both severe engineer brain and a lot of money). It's not a big market though. For most applications it's just an unneeded expense and/or thing that can break, and most people who actually understand that wood is an inherently unstable material know it's just folly to chase thousands precision. Not to mention that even with handtools you can hit 0.5 mm precision with some practice & experience. Tool thread: beaten like a cheap chisel
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Oct 5, 2022 16:44
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Cutting aluminum on a miter saw: What's your method? We got a 12" compound miter saw at work, and everyone wants to cut 80/20 on the drat thing. We got a non-ferrous metals blade and I made a zero-clearance fence & insert so it can't pull in small cutoffs. Besides always using a clamp, any other safety tips?
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Oct 7, 2022 07:24
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HolHorsejob posted:Cutting aluminum on a miter saw: What's your method? We got a 12" compound miter saw at work, and everyone wants to cut 80/20 on the drat thing. We got a non-ferrous metals blade and I made a zero-clearance fence & insert so it can't pull in small cutoffs. Besides always using a clamp, any other safety tips? Eye and ear pro. Face shield over glasses. Aluminum chips in the ol' eyeball really suck.
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Oct 7, 2022 12:12
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No budget for a chop saw? They're like$100. worry that the metal/abrasive dust will wear the pivot points out on the miter saw. Using a compound miter for cutting aluminum stock is overkill, like using a titanium hammer for demo. Otherwise I think you're ok, the slower speeds for metal saws is more important for steel iirc. I do eye n ear pro for all cutting but definitely that too.
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Oct 7, 2022 12:26
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I've used a wood blade on a standard miter saw to cut 80/20 a couple times without issue but I wouldn't use it all day like that. Just go really slow, good PPE, clean up well so there aren't sharp metal chips in your woodworking area.
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Oct 7, 2022 22:25
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:I've used a wood blade on a standard miter saw to cut 80/20 a couple times without issue but I wouldn't use it all day like that. I've never cut 80/20 but I'll cut t-track or small bar stock no problem. I've never needed to make more than a couple of cuts at a time though.
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Oct 7, 2022 23:19
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:No budget for a chop saw? They're like$100. worry that the metal/abrasive dust will wear the pivot points out on the miter saw. Using a compound miter for cutting aluminum stock is overkill, like using a titanium hammer for demo. It won't wear any faster than sawdust will. I've cut hundreds of cuts of aluminum with my miter saw and circ saws, let alone running sheet aluminum through my table saw. Go reasonably quick but not painfully so (you want to be making chips, not dust, and don't bog the motor). I didn't even bother with a non-ferrous blade on the circ saw, I just use a wood blade. If you're cutting a ton, I'd give the saw a little time to cool off between sessions. Just run it with no load for 30 seconds to cool it down.
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Oct 8, 2022 01:26
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sharkytm posted:It won't wear any faster than sawdust will. I've cut hundreds of cuts of aluminum with my miter saw and circ saws, let alone running sheet aluminum through my table saw. Go reasonably quick but not painfully so (you want to be making chips, not dust, and don't bog the motor). I didn't even bother with a non-ferrous blade on the circ saw, I just use a wood blade. i was thinking of using an abrasive wheel but with a metal cutting blade you're probably right that additional wear is minimal. still the thought of running sheet metal through a table saw makes me cringe lol .. like nails on chalkboard on topic: this deal is like 2months old but is still going on and i finally pulled the trigger so maybe someone else will get snookered in as well: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...32-20/317065703 $200 for rocket light plus 2 6ah batteries is smoking hot deal. I have a m12 rocket light already but since they're cordless OR corded they're pretty versatile. De-Wilt work lights dont run off wall power 
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Oct 8, 2022 14:23
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:i was thinking of using an abrasive wheel but with a metal cutting blade you're probably right that additional wear is minimal. still the thought of running sheet metal through a table saw makes me cringe lol .. like nails on chalkboard Yeah, abrasive blades don't do great in aluminum, even the cutoff wheels that are aluminum rated are pretty crappy compared to carbide tipped saw blades. That's a nice deal, and I might snag it. I really like my brushed M12 stuff.
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Oct 8, 2022 14:40
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How much better is a manual log splitter than using a wedge and sledge hammer? Trying to split stuff with a friskers axe is a pita. I leaning towards sledgehammer+wedge because it would be useful just to have the hammer. I don’t really want spend the money or store an electric log splitter.
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Oct 9, 2022 03:31
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Sledge and wedge guy checking in. There is probably some way better than sledge and wedge.
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Oct 9, 2022 03:51
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Calidus posted:How much better is a manual log splitter than using a wedge and sledge hammer? Trying to split stuff with a friskers axe is a pita. I leaning towards sledgehammer+wedge because it would be useful just to have the hammer. Sledge and wedge works great, just get more wedges than you think you'll need, so you can just use more if you get one stuck. also, don't forget to go grind off any mushrooming on the top.
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Oct 9, 2022 04:13
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Calidus posted:I am flipping flopping between the delta contractor saw, Laguna Fusion F1/F2 and a contractor SawStop. fwiw i had no problem getting the big Sawstop into my garage, which is at the top of the hill on a pretty bad driveway. Getting it upright was a two-person job, which may or may not still be an issue with the contractor saw, but the crates are nbd and the Woodcraft guys dropped it way further up said lovely driveway than I was expecting
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Oct 9, 2022 04:25
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buy a welder and build yourself some bloodthirsty mechanical monstrosity powered by a lawn mower engine.
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Oct 9, 2022 04:29
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MRC48B posted:buy a welder and build yourself some bloodthirsty mechanical monstrosity powered by a lawn mower engine. 
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Oct 9, 2022 04:29
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don't buy wedges just buy more axes and you get wedges when they break
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Oct 9, 2022 04:43
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I just scored 4 vices, a 0.75 hp pedestal drill (2MT) and a 10lb sledgehammer for 700 AUD off a business closing down. Of the 4 vices, two are very heavy old English made (1x Record and 1x I can't remember the brand rn) cast iron, one is a very heavy old Australian made (Dawn) cast iron, and the last is Chinese made. Two are pivot base, two are quick release. The Chinese one I won't get much for but with minimal work to fix up I think I could get 150-200 for the non Chinese ones, all are in awesome condition for their age. Most just need a wire brush and a light sand in some spots and a touch of paint here and there and will be good to go for another few decades. Pedestal drill is in reasonably good condition, the platen has seen better days but I'm rarely ever drilling on the platen itself if ever, usually on top of something or in a vice. Runs about 12 different speeds on belt drive, good heavy base which has allowance to be bolted down to the concrete and gives me a bit more power for drilling through harder knife steels like 12C27 and Bohler powder steels
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Oct 9, 2022 11:56
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Calidus posted:How much better is a manual log splitter than using a wedge and sledge hammer? Trying to split stuff with a friskers axe is a pita. I leaning towards sledgehammer+wedge because it would be useful just to have the hammer. Axes are bad for splitting. Wedge and sledge works too but it's slower than a maul. If it's big log, I'll use wedge/sledge to break it in half, and then it is usually easy enough with the maul. Some species of wood split really easily (oaks, beech) and some are almost impossible to split (looking at you sweetgum and live oak  ). Wet, green wood usually splits much easier than dry wood. You can save yourself alot of cussing if you cut out big knots or crotches when you buck a tree up into bolts to be split.
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Oct 9, 2022 16:46
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I have that friskers but I am try split >30” diameter logs from a downed maple. I have been trying avoid using the chain saw to split these in half.
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Oct 9, 2022 17:35
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Calidus posted:I have that friskers but I am try split >30” diameter logs from a downed maple. I have been trying avoid using the chain saw to split these in half. That big, you may have to kerf 'em half way, use 2 wedges. That's pretty big logs.
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Oct 9, 2022 19:52
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MRC48B posted:buy a welder and build yourself some bloodthirsty mechanical monstrosity powered by a lawn mower engine. The scariest DIY widowmaker log splitters I see on YouTube are all powered off of tractor PTO shafts, though the chainsaw based ones offer some good scares too.
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Oct 10, 2022 06:02
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I know a dude who made one that was a 5 foot antique steel tractor wheel that would spin up, and it would rotate to swing an axe head that had been welded on to the rim. You would operate it by letting it build speed and then shove the log under the spinning axe head. It was belt driven so if it jammed after failing to split the log, the belt would just spin in place. I can't remember what the motor was. It may have, no kidding, been an old mercury outboard boat motor that he had rigged to water cool from a bathtub. He definitely had a different gizmo that ran like that but it may have been something other than the splitter.
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Oct 10, 2022 19:39
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how many times did your dude get whacked in the head by his inventions before he came up with that one
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Oct 10, 2022 21:23
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A Wizard of Goatse posted:how many times did your dude get whacked in the head by his inventions before he came up with that one No idea but he was the head of the volunteer fire department in the town. The kind of guy who preaches safety to everyone and then starts a bonfire by pouring a gallon of diesel on top of a heap of sticks in the middle of a wooded lot.
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Oct 10, 2022 22:24
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Is he named Maurice because that's literally his invention from Beauty and the Beast
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Oct 11, 2022 02:33
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i like nice words
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Stan and maybe that's where he got the idea. I last saw that boy going I'm 1995
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Oct 11, 2022 03:11
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Prime Day Deals: Dewalt: https://smile.amazon.com/deal/6e94b986?showVariations=true&ref=dlx_early_gd_dcl_tlt_38_6e94b986_dt_sl7_a6 Bosch: https://smile.amazon.com/deal/55f9d5c1?showVariations=true&ref=dlx_early_gd_dcl_tlt_3_55f9d5c1_dt_sl7_a6 Worx: https://smile.amazon.com/deal/9b33559b?showVariations=true&ref=dlx_early_gd_dcl_tlt_2_9b33559b_dt_sl7_a6 Makita: https://smile.amazon.com/s/browse/?...9e4ab_dt_sl7_a6
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Oct 11, 2022 18:00
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None of that dewalt stuff is particularly good/better than what occasionally happens anyway. Disappointing. I think they're on to the grift of buying a package deal for the cost of the included battery and selling the bare tools on ebay. I would have really liked the 4 gang charger. But not at that price.
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Oct 11, 2022 18:12
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