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Nerobro posted:I have two different crimpers. The normal "jaws pivot" and a set that have parallel moving jaws. I have more success with those. *shrugs* You'd think I"d be good at this point. I've done... more than a few. 200? more? I have zero trouble with most conectors. (10 years of playing around in data centers will do that) You're using loose crimps instead of the ones on the ammo-belt, aren't you?
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# ? Dec 23, 2022 22:10 |
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# ? May 29, 2024 01:06 |
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Re: Bambu Lab, I know 4-5 people/workshops with them and besides being loud, it’s gotten high praise. I’m hoping I can pick one up this year.
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# ? Dec 23, 2022 22:28 |
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NewFatMike posted:Re: Bambu Lab, I know 4-5 people/workshops with them and besides being loud, it’s gotten high praise. I’m hoping I can pick one up this year. Add me to that. This is the best printer I’ve ever laid hands on. The slicer is great too. I set up a profile for an Ender 3 and use the sliced files on my N3. The Neptune 3 has never printed so nice!
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# ? Dec 24, 2022 04:07 |
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insta posted:You're using loose crimps instead of the ones on the ammo-belt, aren't you? No. But now I need to look that up. hah.
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# ? Dec 24, 2022 08:28 |
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I've got the sets of the engineer universal crimpers and they work ok. Factory tooling is the way to go if you're doing a lot of them or it's for work, but good God they're expensive. I've got a drawer in my lab that's really got $5k in crimpers in it, and half of them I bought used.Nerobro posted:No. But now I need to look that up. hah. you really don't need to. Reeled contacts aren't meant for hand crimping. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Dec 24, 2022 |
# ? Dec 24, 2022 17:27 |
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Any Neptune 3 Pro havers here run into any foibles yet? Mine is gonna get here sometime in January (outside US) and I'd like to gently caress up the printer as little as possible
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# ? Dec 24, 2022 18:12 |
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NewFatMike posted:Re: Bambu Lab, I know 4-5 people/workshops with them and besides being loud, it’s gotten high praise. I’m hoping I can pick one up this year. As a Voron owner who loves to tinker, I picked up a X1C with AMS as a backup. Given the price, unless you were seriously invested (puts on bomb disposal gear) you'd be nuts to buy a Prusa right now. The LIDAR functionality is well done and useful, and it's reliable and approaching Voron/VZbot fast. Mine has been running almost non-stop since I got it and the only failures have been when I've been too adventurous printing without good supports. I do think it could do with a higher flow chamber fan and a PEX plate instead of their glue based plate series, but it really is a well thought out machine. The glue acts as a release agent, as the plates and prints bind too well otherwise. It does need a filament poo chute bucket, but anything will do. Bambu Studio is a fork of prusaslicer with some serious work put into workflow, and the Bambu Handy mobile app has quality. I am not retiring my Vorons at all, but given this is a first release I'm interested to see what comes next.
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# ? Dec 24, 2022 22:38 |
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So I managed to import the SV06 profile into cura from github, but I noticed it pegged the Nozzle temp at 170°c Shouldn't that be pegged between 195° and 205°?
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# ? Dec 25, 2022 01:36 |
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What do you mean "pegged?" Is 170 degrees the preset idle temperature? Printing temperature? For what filament? The temperature limit?
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# ? Dec 25, 2022 02:24 |
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170 is what my nozzle temp sits at for mesh bed leveling
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# ? Dec 25, 2022 02:47 |
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Yeah I don't know about the presets but you will have to change settings for printing with different materials and stuff yourself. Some PLA is okay under 200 but depending on which brand I usually run 200, 210, or 220.
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# ? Dec 25, 2022 02:53 |
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The Demilich posted:So I managed to import the SV06 profile into cura from github, but I noticed it pegged the Nozzle temp at 170°c Mine? It doesn't do that. Do you have weird overrides in place?
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# ? Dec 25, 2022 03:12 |
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Sorry for the lack of info, it's Fremover PLA, and I noticed it when I loaded an stl as a test for slicing. Perhaps it was a default setting for the stl? I noticed in Prusa the wall count was 3, but in cura it was already 2 which matched some of the settings listed for the file itself. I can't tell if this is technically a presupported file because there are no supports, but that doesn't mean other settings weren't altered.
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# ? Dec 25, 2022 07:24 |
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tracecomplete posted:Mine? It doesn't do that. Do you have weird overrides in place? I didn't override anything lol Honestly that github install was super smooth, so I'm thinking maybe it's the file itself.
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# ? Dec 25, 2022 07:26 |
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170C is what the SV06's auto level system brings it up to, ostensibly so you don't have material oozing all over the place while the print head moves around. The test Benchy on the SD card, however, is also sliced to *print* at like 170 or 175. That's waaaaaayyyyyy too cool even for PLA. Best to do your own slicing at a more appropriate temperature. (e) After a few minutes, a few sips of coffee, and a re-read, it's come to my attention that you're probably not trying to print the included Benchy. Disregard. Also, Merry Christmas to those of you that celebrate. Hope y'all have a fantastic holiday! Acid Reflux fucked around with this message at 10:58 on Dec 25, 2022 |
# ? Dec 25, 2022 10:51 |
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The Demilich posted:Sorry for the lack of info, it's Fremover PLA, and I noticed it when I loaded an stl as a test for slicing. Perhaps it was a default setting for the stl? I noticed in Prusa the wall count was 3, but in cura it was already 2 which matched some of the settings listed for the file itself. I can't tell if this is technically a presupported file because there are no supports, but that doesn't mean other settings weren't altered. Stl files just have 3d models in them. They don't contain information about how the printer should make the object, such as temperatures or speeds or layer heights, that's all up to the slicing software. The test print that came with the printer was probably a gcode file which means it was already sliced and could have had a lower temp set. It will be up to you to pick the best settings for your printer, but getting profiles to get started isn't a bad idea. Just beware that you may need to change temperatures for different brands of filament and even colors, not just material type. You can often run some test prints with a new roll to see how well it will work with different settings.
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# ? Dec 25, 2022 11:40 |
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Got the laser engraving attachment for my S1 plus. Is there a thingiverse for laser images or just have to source stuff from wherever.
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# ? Dec 25, 2022 16:25 |
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Etsy is pretty good, usually you make your own 2D image in something like Inkscape, Illustrator, or 2D CAD. There’s a whole grip of vector art packs out there you can check out.
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# ? Dec 25, 2022 18:14 |
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Well gotta find a way to vent this printer and build a screen. Did not think the VOCs from the engraver would be this bad on just plain wood. May have to move it.
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# ? Dec 25, 2022 18:43 |
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Every laser engraving vendor has photoshopped images of smiling families engraving stuff uncovered in the middle of their kitchen or nursery so not surprising it took you by surprise. Laser cutting and engraving is just hella smelly in general.
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# ? Dec 25, 2022 20:00 |
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m.hache posted:Well gotta find a way to vent this printer and build a screen. Did not think the VOCs from the engraver would be this bad on just plain wood. May have to move it. Trying not to be an rear end, but how did you think laser engraving works? The VOCs you're getting off of the wood is smoke.
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# ? Dec 25, 2022 20:15 |
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The Eyes Have It posted:Every laser engraving vendor has photoshopped images of smiling families engraving stuff uncovered in the middle of their kitchen or nursery so not surprising it took you by surprise. Yeah, the flood of cheap frame type diode lasers is a little concerning from a safety standpoint. I'm gonna quote myself from the '3D printing for tabletop' thread. BlackIronHeart posted:I don't know if it's a reputable manufacturer either but there are some things to really be aware of with these open frame diode lasers, there are some very real safety concerns. I'm not saying 'Don't use it' but I am saying 'Educate yourself before using it'. All lasers used for hobby crafting work by burning poo poo with radiation that can blind you, full stop. You've got 3 potential issues when lasering stuff:
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# ? Dec 25, 2022 21:19 |
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I know it's would cause some smells but it's more than anticipated. I'm already working on building an enclosure and have a new set of glasses on its way as I don't trust the ones from Creality. The marketing around it and notes from creality were straight forward and doesn't really go into any safety items so I'm researching to do it safely. Edit: if anyone has recommendations for enclosures or build plans I'm trying to find a way to keep it in my office instead of moving it to the garage. m.hache fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Dec 25, 2022 |
# ? Dec 25, 2022 21:36 |
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Safety is a joke for these diode lasers and I hate it. https://youtu.be/-9hIXT8DMUU https://youtu.be/uZ6U1lTSD_Q Because it’s mounted to a 3D printer, you might be in DIY territory for an enclosure, there’s a near total certainty that someone has done such a thing with an IKEA Lack enclosure. Ortur have a laser enclosure and fume extraction setup, that’s a couple hundred though. For these reasons and a lot more, I’m just saving up for an Omtech polar.
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# ? Dec 25, 2022 22:27 |
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NewFatMike posted:Safety is a joke for these diode lasers and I hate it. I figured I'd have to build one. Sounds like a neat project. I'll see if I can find some open source plans
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# ? Dec 26, 2022 00:02 |
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When it comes to files for laser cutting and engraving a lot of people recommend Adobe Illustrator. That is a good program and there is a lot of support and tutorials available for it, but it is expensive and a monthly subscription. I have really been enjoying Affinity Designer 2 by Serif, it seems to work really well. It is a one time purchase as well. They have a 30 day trial also that is really nice.
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# ? Dec 26, 2022 00:14 |
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I used Inkscape professionally for years for laser jobs, it’ll pull in an AI file if that’s what you download just fine. It’s a great introduction to vector art and it’ll let you get your sea legs before pulling the trigger on something that costs money.
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# ? Dec 26, 2022 00:16 |
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m.hache posted:and have a new set of glasses on its way as I don't trust the ones from Creality. This is a good thing by itself so not discouraging getting good safety glasses. They should always be worn around a laser cutter anyway. I do want to add in that they are one step in a layered mitigation strategy. Your enclosure itself should be the first layer in that strategy. 100% opaque and sealed in all directions, and an open/close safety sensor that prevents operation without being secured is ideal. Realistically not likely to happen so next step is something like a very large and obvious knob/handle that has to change positions and defaults to a fail-safe position is quite easy to manage. If you don't feel like you're in an OSHA video you're doing it wrong and these things are absolutely, 100% in "gently caress up wrong for a split second and you're damaged for life" territory.
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# ? Dec 26, 2022 00:32 |
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bird food bathtub posted:This is a good thing by itself so not discouraging getting good safety glasses. They should always be worn around a laser cutter anyway. I'm probably going to build an enclosure and use a camera to monitor internally. Researching side mount filters as well.
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# ? Dec 26, 2022 00:35 |
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NewFatMike posted:I used Inkscape professionally for years for laser jobs, it’ll pull in an AI file if that’s what you download just fine. It’s a great introduction to vector art and it’ll let you get your sea legs before pulling the trigger on something that costs money. And if you are going to spend money, go for Affinity Designer before shelling out for Adobe Illustrator.
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# ? Dec 26, 2022 00:45 |
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Yeah, don't use Illustrator for lasers, it's way overkill and much too expensive for what you're doing.
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# ? Dec 26, 2022 01:09 |
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NewFatMike posted:I used Inkscape professionally for years for laser jobs, it’ll pull in an AI file if that’s what you download just fine. It’s a great introduction to vector art and it’ll let you get your sea legs before pulling the trigger on something that costs money. I've gotten pretty handy with inkscape for all kinds of stuff. It's really fantastic software, especially for the price. The trace bitmap feature has helped me out more times than I can count.
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# ? Dec 26, 2022 01:32 |
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After some consideration I don't want the risk of my son coming into my office to see my cool toys and getting blinded for life. I'll just return this (hopefully they take returns) for now.
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# ? Dec 26, 2022 03:08 |
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AlexDeGruven posted:Trying not to be an rear end, but how did you think laser engraving works? It's wood smoke, but the wood you use for laser cutting often has a lot of glue/compounds in it that are particularly nasty
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# ? Dec 26, 2022 03:24 |
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Any sort of solid wood, veneer, or thin plywood will be totally fine. The smoke is no more dangerous than that from a campfire. Don't go out of your way to inhale it, but you aren't going to give yourself cancer or kill your pets. Avoid MDF, which frequently contains formaldehyde glue. Also avoid pressure-treated wood, which can contain arsenic, but I can't imagine any reason you'd be putting a fencepost in your laser in the first place.
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# ? Dec 26, 2022 05:56 |
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Even with solid untreated wood, you should have adequate ventilation. Smoke is still smoke.
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# ? Dec 26, 2022 06:02 |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9549pl7zLjM
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# ? Dec 26, 2022 06:34 |
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Looking for a pi to run octoprint (for my cnc). What's the best value pi thing these days?
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# ? Dec 26, 2022 14:49 |
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NomNomNom posted:Looking for a pi to run octoprint (for my cnc). What's the best value pi thing these days? So I looked into this 3 months ago, my advice is probably entirely out of date lol The best looking ones I could find actuually in stock were the OrangePi line. Their Zero models seemed like they would be good for octoprint, and it has solid documentation (tho the translation is ehhhhh) I've heard the ROCK64 by Pine64 is solid, but they were out of stock when I searched. Their reputation is pretty solid tho, and I own their soldering iron which is easily the best sub-$100 iron I've used. But if you are willing to look at other devices, you can go a lot cheaper: An old laptop running linux is great as an octoprint server. I did this for a few weeks while deciding what to do, and it worked fine (except for crappy wifi drivers on that laptop) Likewise, if you have an old decent phone there's an octoprint port for android. I've heard it can be awkward getting a USB hub to allow the phone to charge while talking to the printer to work tho. For me, I already owned a Pi 4b, so in the end I just bought a long ethernet cable and have it doing double duty as an octoprint/pihole server.
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# ? Dec 26, 2022 15:34 |
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# ? May 29, 2024 01:06 |
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I know there's at least one company that is taking the same sort of hardware used in Android TV devices, and making general purpose Linux boxes out of them. I wish I could remember the name of the specific company I saw that makes them, but there's a couple YouTubers that have used those devices as Pi alternatives for Klipper and/or Octoprint (and others that have used them to replace a RPi for other purposes, like media centers and so forth).
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# ? Dec 26, 2022 15:52 |