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Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


Roundboy posted:

Im about to start from scratch on slicers to revamp my workflow:

I used cura originally but I hate the method to manage different filament options and changes to stls across different materials and printers... so I switched to super slicer , but it seems there is a huge lag in getting new features out.... which brings me right over to Prussia slicer, which seems to incorporate all the new stuff quickly (Arachne, tree supports, paintable supports, adding text,etc)

Is there some viable reason NOT to just restart it all with prussia slicer and run with it? And yes, I thought about branching superslicer and adding the new stuff in, but, no.

I don’t think this got answered so I’d bump it since I’m also considering rebuilding my workflow with nicer tools but coming from Simplify3D :ohdear:

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The Chairman
Jun 30, 2003

But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun
I ended up doing a full loop, started with PrusaSlicer when I got the printer, moved to Cura for a while because the supports were better, then to SuperSlicer because it worked better with Klipper, then with the 2.6 alpha I ended up back on Prusa

slurm
Jul 28, 2022

by Hand Knit

Sagebrush posted:

When the two most commonly advanced alternatives to a Prusa are "this machine is great if you make several upgrades right out of the box" and "this machine is great except for the recent quality control problems," I think Prusas do still have a niche.

$800 is hard to swallow for some people, but it's less than an iPhone costs these days, and nobody hesitates to recommend iPhones that just work over Androids that are "totally fine and just as good."

Has Bambu been having QC problems?

TVs Ian
Jun 1, 2000

Such graceful, delicate creatures.

slurm posted:

Has Bambu been having QC problems?

I’ve heard of some getting damaged in shipping and some reports of warped beds, but no clue how prevalent any of that is, and it seems like their support takes care of them.

slurm
Jul 28, 2022

by Hand Knit

TVs Ian posted:

I’ve heard of some getting damaged in shipping and some reports of warped beds, but no clue how prevalent any of that is, and it seems like their support takes care of them.

It really seems like they're just a flat upgrade to the Prusa and their cheap model is cheaper

EVIL Gibson
Mar 23, 2001

Internet of Things is just someone else's computer that people can't help attaching cameras and door locks to!
:vapes:
Switchblade Switcharoo
For whoever said the Ankermake Hotend is a bitch to take apart, that is untrue.

But putting that hotend back together, hooooly poo poo, the left hand two screws right next together on the heatsink loving sucks

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

armorer posted:

Will a neptune 3 pro do abs out of the box (with some form of DIY enclosure)?

Not practically. I won't run a PTFE hotend over 235C.

My SV06 is my ABS/nylon printer, but I also got an early one and it seems like the QC has gotten worse since.

Opinionated
May 29, 2002



slurm posted:

Has Bambu been having QC problems?

I heard some people in the Bambu discord saying they got a lemon but it's always hard to judge those situations. I managed to luck out with my Kickstarter X1C as it has over 1300 hours of print time on it and I haven't had to do anything other than minor dusting and greasing z-axis screws. They also gave me so many spare parts that I can rebuild the entire hotend and 3 replacement 0.4 nozzles a 0.6 and 0.8 nozzle from the Kickstarter bonus.

Printed this toolbox recently for it :cool:

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED
Speaking of after purchase support, my Plus might've had a leak around the nozzle as my heat block was covered in melted PLA. It was almost all under the silicone boot so I don't know how that could've happened with a failed print but Elegoo is just sending me a new hot end. That's pretty cool! I decided to replace the heatbreak to go all metal when the new part comes in so it's nice they're not giving me the run around.

Kalman
Jan 17, 2010

Leakage inside the boot is usually because the nozzle and heatbreak aren’t properly snugged up to one another, so there’s a gap for the molten plastic to ooze out of.

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

Kalman posted:

Leakage inside the boot is usually because the nozzle and heatbreak aren’t properly snugged up to one another, so there’s a gap for the molten plastic to ooze out of.

And the way I did it was by tightening when cold, and completely spacing on tightening once it heated up.

It was kinda neat as it was a solid cube of black pla under the silicone sock.

Edit: And the funniest thing is the print worked, just a little under extrudey

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED

Bondematt posted:

Edit: And the funniest thing is the print worked, just a little under extrudey

That's actually what caused me to investigate things, my prints were at least completing but things looked off and under-extruded. I was trying to compensate with settings until a buddy advised me to have a look for something physical.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

VogMan on youtube did a little video about Wham Bam's "the cloud" fire extinguishing puck:
https://whambam3d.com/products/the-cloud-personal-printer-sentry?aff=55

Seems like it might be a good buy if you're printing enclosed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrelwtKUGjk

Opinionated
May 29, 2002



Rexxed posted:

VogMan on youtube did a little video about Wham Bam's "the cloud" fire extinguishing puck:
https://whambam3d.com/products/the-cloud-personal-printer-sentry?aff=55

Seems like it might be a good buy if you're printing enclosed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrelwtKUGjk

Wow pretty cool, only $29 too I'm going to grab one. Thanks for the heads up

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Opinionated posted:

Wow pretty cool, only $29 too I'm going to grab one. Thanks for the heads up

Me too. Good price.

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

I got in super early on the Sovol SV06 Plus pre-orders ("luckily" home with COVID when they went live) and managed to snag one of the initial 30 units that were already in the USA and ready to ship. Mine showed up on Tuesday.

Pros:
-Good-sized build area (300 x 300 x 340)
-Volcano style hot end
-Beefy rod and bearing motion system - these are like 10 or 12mm rods, up from the 8mm ones on the smaller original SV06
-Filament runout sensor
-Very nice PEI flex plate with locator pins at the back of the bed for easy alignment
-Nice big touch screen with an actual usable interface
-Prints extremely well right out of the box, just like my two regular SV06's

Cons:
-Fan noise, OMG fan noise. I've never once felt compelled to replace fans on any other printer I've ever owned, but I'm already looking into both motherboard and PSU fans for this one.
-The "Volcano" can't actually use E3D nozzles as it sits. Sovol has designed it in such a way that it can only use their own version with ever-so-slightly-longer tips without doing some modification. Definite a few points off for that, as well as for the fact that they don't have anything other than 0.4mm nozzles available for it just yet.
-The stock part cooling fan almost certainly won't be powerful enough to cool material coming out of a larger nozzle at higher speeds. It's also on my noise poo poo list when it's up above about 70% RPM.
-Er.... actually, that's about it.

I'm pretty pleased with it overall. As soon as some more of them make it out into the wild, I imagine the CAD folks in the community will probably whip up some mods to address the hot end, both for better filament cooling and to allow for using E3D nozzles.

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

You can probably just replace the heat block with a volcano-compatible one, no?

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


One of the things that kind of kept me from clicking buy on them is the proprietary hot end. I like easy to source parts.

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

tracecomplete posted:

You can probably just replace the heat block with a volcano-compatible one, no?

They're completely thread compatible, the unfortunate issue is that Sovol's nozzle tips are juuuuust a little bit longer than E3D's, so the nozzle fan ducts will end up hitting the bed before the nozzle itself will with an E3D one in there. It's really just a matter of shortening the ducts a bit, either by modifying the existing ones or designing some replacements. A poor design decision on their part but nothing insurmountable.


tater_salad posted:

One of the things that kind of kept me from clicking buy on them is the proprietary hot end. I like easy to source parts.
I don't mind waiting for replacement parts if something goes catastrophically wrong, but also I totally get not being cool with that. Very understandable.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


More about being able to hop on Ali or whatever and order a set of hardened steel or backups in different sizes

Listerine
Jan 5, 2005

Exquisite Corpse

Acid Reflux posted:

Cons:
-Fan noise, OMG fan noise. I've never once felt compelled to replace fans on any other printer I've ever owned, but I'm already looking into both motherboard and PSU fans for this one.

Can you post if you find good replacements? Mine will operate in a room that I don't share, so I may not care about it, but just in case it becomes an issue it'd be nice to just know what will work if I decide to replace as well.

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

Sure will! Only did a halfhearted search today, but plan on doing some actual reading tomorrow and will probably order a couple of different brands to see (or hear, I guess) what'll work best.

Talorat
Sep 18, 2007

Hahaha! Aw come on, I can't tell you everything right away! That would make for a boring story, don't you think?
Speaking of proprietary hot ends, is there a good way to source Revo nozzles, or anyone doing Revo nozzles for abrasive filaments yet? I have a order for one of the XObsydianX nozzles or whatever the gently caress but I wouldn’t mind more options.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Printed and installed the Hydra AMS replacement for my AMS. This allows you to use larger and wider rolls of filament in the AMS. Prints super easy and took less than an hour to install. Pretty straight forward.

https://www.printables.com/model/392134-hydra-ams-enhanced-bambu-lab-ams

https://imgur.com/gallery/eY0ZLLu

EVIL Gibson
Mar 23, 2001

Internet of Things is just someone else's computer that people can't help attaching cameras and door locks to!
:vapes:
Switchblade Switcharoo
the Anker M5 comes with two Hotend assemblies. I messed one up because the thin screws attaching the heat block to the heat sink snapped while trying to replace the nozzle.

Found the video of and talked to the guy who performed a mod to replace the heat block with a volcano

https://youtu.be/bUixskx44Dc

you need to thread the lower half of the hole of the heat sink to fit in the heat break of the volcano but it's interesting and will allow for steel or other higher durability nozzles.

ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

I LOVE Musk and his pro-first-amendment ways. X is the future.

Its alive!

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



I inhereted a old ender 3 pro from a buddy that isnt working, it basically hits like 5mm or so height and then layer shifts like 2 inches over, on almost every print. Where shoudl I start diagnosing that? Seems like some kind of short, it always happens at the same z height. Tried different SD cards, different files, different slicers. happens on about 90% of prints.

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
What does the slicer playback look like at that moment? Seems very odd and specific for a short

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

queeb posted:

I inhereted a old ender 3 pro from a buddy that isnt working, it basically hits like 5mm or so height and then layer shifts like 2 inches over, on almost every print. Where shoudl I start diagnosing that? Seems like some kind of short, it always happens at the same z height. Tried different SD cards, different files, different slicers. happens on about 90% of prints.

Possiblly an issue with the zrod/frame being out of square? Otherwise yeah, I'd be confirming nothing funky is going on with the slicer

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Y'know, I had a friend with nearly the exact same issue
And what solved it was ... switching from gyroid infill to cubic.

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

queeb posted:

I inhereted a old ender 3 pro from a buddy that isnt working, it basically hits like 5mm or so height and then layer shifts like 2 inches over, on almost every print. Where shoudl I start diagnosing that? Seems like some kind of short, it always happens at the same z height. Tried different SD cards, different files, different slicers. happens on about 90% of prints.

X or y shift?

Is the print anywhere near the edges?

What accelerations & speeds is he running?

I'd check or just replace the wiring to the offending motor if there isn't anything obvious on speeds & feeds.

EVIL Gibson
Mar 23, 2001

Internet of Things is just someone else's computer that people can't help attaching cameras and door locks to!
:vapes:
Switchblade Switcharoo
An article of how to turn a raspberry pi w (or any pi with a wifi adapter on it) into a headless SMB share that appears as a USB drive to your printer if your printer doesn't support direct gcode input (like through octopi)

https://magpi.raspberrypi.com/articles/pi-zero-w-smart-usb-flash-drive

Now you don't have to go through learning how to mod those wifi SD cards that only work for very specific cameras.

basically if you have a non-open source printer and have to live in the hell that is Ankermake

EVIL Gibson fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Mar 6, 2023

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
Lol you guys can buy a RPi? I even looked into a few alternatives with more USB ports and no wifi, and they were also going for $absurd. I think the only viable option is the le potato because even though it's slower and old, it's perfectly fine for a printer.

EVIL Gibson
Mar 23, 2001

Internet of Things is just someone else's computer that people can't help attaching cameras and door locks to!
:vapes:
Switchblade Switcharoo

Roundboy posted:

Lol you guys can buy a RPi? I even looked into a few alternatives with more USB ports and no wifi, and they were also going for $absurd. I think the only viable option is the le potato because even though it's slower and old, it's perfectly fine for a printer.

I basically have many pis that I kept misplacing and slowly finding over time. So I'm coming at this as a person rich in both pis and especially idiocy

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

Roundboy posted:

Lol you guys can buy a RPi? I even looked into a few alternatives with more USB ports and no wifi, and they were also going for $absurd. I think the only viable option is the le potato because even though it's slower and old, it's perfectly fine for a printer.

Radxa Zero and OrangePi Zero LTS both work as well for Klipper at least, but have fewer USB ports than a Pi model B board.

Scarodactyl
Oct 22, 2015


Scarodactyl posted:

I dunno, it's an awfully piercing smell and it has that fishy note you get from some insulation. The thermistor also looked kind of burnt when I tried removing and reinstalling it just in case that might help, I'll make sure to get a better look under the microscope if and when I swap it out.
Update, it clearly has a burnt sticky layer that grabbed dust.

Wiping it off it doesn't look blatant bad underneath.

Anyway replacing it fixed the issue, so in conclusion ????

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out

Roundboy posted:

Lol you guys can buy a RPi? I even looked into a few alternatives with more USB ports and no wifi, and they were also going for $absurd. I think the only viable option is the le potato because even though it's slower and old, it's perfectly fine for a printer.

I've had good luck with a BigTreeTech CB1. It's slightly different than a pi which makes following some install guides annoying.

Dr. Fishopolis
Aug 31, 2004

ROBOT

Roundboy posted:

Lol you guys can buy a RPi? I even looked into a few alternatives with more USB ports and no wifi, and they were also going for $absurd. I think the only viable option is the le potato because even though it's slower and old, it's perfectly fine for a printer.

I found an orange pi zero for like $15 used, they can be had if you hunt for them. runs klipper on armbian just fine.

EVIL Gibson
Mar 23, 2001

Internet of Things is just someone else's computer that people can't help attaching cameras and door locks to!
:vapes:
Switchblade Switcharoo

NomNomNom posted:

I've had good luck with a BigTreeTech CB1. It's slightly different than a pi which makes following some install guides annoying.

Watched a video comparing that machine with a pi and yes, there is a lot more to install and making sure to replace the default username of pi with whatever you created/default. At least octopi gives instructions on how to manually install it.

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tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

EVIL Gibson posted:

Watched a video comparing that machine with a pi and yes, there is a lot more to install and making sure to replace the default username of pi with whatever you created/default. At least octopi gives instructions on how to manually install it.

Almost every SBC you can actually buy works out-of-the-box with Armbian. Yes, it means you have to actually install things yourself. It's not $50-$100 of difficult for most people.

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