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Sockington
Jul 26, 2003

Leperflesh posted:

Ohhhh, yeah I got you, I have projects I started 20 years ago still sitting around unfinished so I feel that completely!

This is me with my basement. I just restarted it now that my skills aren’t quite so horrendous as when I started.

My field set of dividers are not near the show quality. The big set are modified Harbour Freights and my usual small set have no markings. I’ve had these for a decade and use them daily.


Bonus, I rock a hand-drill in my tool bag so I don’t have to worry about the shop being out of DeWalt drills or Hot Work permits.:agesilaus:



Edit: woah, are you saying I randomly grabbed a piece of history from this guy’s garage that was made by these folk and owned by some big mind of the time?

Sockington fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Mar 14, 2023

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PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
Oil-based poly forever. Except for wintertime when it is too cold to use in the garage and too stinky to use in the basement.

Does anyone make a roundover bit with spiral cutters? My spiral "straight" bits cut so much better than my regular straight bits that it makes me wonder how a spiral-cutter roundover or bevel bit would work.

PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Mar 14, 2023

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

El Spamo posted:

You gotta do your own testing, stain is squirrely. Save an off-cut from your project for finish testing, even if you're not doing something that's adding a specific color because maybe you think "hm, what if I try <X> instead..." when you get to the finish step.
Thankfully stain isn't THAT expensive, and a little goes a long way.

It's not a project for which I have offcuts at the moment, which extra sucks (I ordered an unfinished bookcase). I'll probably just have to test on the back of the frame and do some good old-fashioned pray-and-swearing.

alnilam
Nov 10, 2009

PBCrunch posted:

Oil-based poly forever. Except for wintertime when it is too cold to use in the garage and too stinky to use in the basement.

Yeah I couldn't wait until spring so I commandeered the basement bathroom and left its fan running. With proper ventilation it didn't stink up the house at all.

HappyHippo
Nov 19, 2003
Do you have an Air Miles Card?

alnilam posted:

Baby level post compared to much of the other stuff itt but, My :effort: walnut tables and shelves, which were very simple projects consisting of cut, sand, finish, and screw on hardware, turned out very nicely. Mainly posting to say I switched from water to oil based polyurethane and it is a million times nicer, oil 4eva

The entryway shelf:




The table:


Looks nice!

I'm also new at this and did a similar table project recently (glued two boards together, sand, finish, attach legs). It was a good "first" project, involved a lot of stuff that other projects will require without any joinery or the like on top of that. Pretty high reward to effort ratio.

Incidentally I've also decided I like oil-based poly better. Especially thinning it and wiping it on. I used water-based for another project I did (making a board for a board game) and found it much more finicky.

Mederlock
Jun 23, 2012

You won't recognize Canada when I'm through with it
Grimey Drawer

Sockington posted:

This is me with my basement. I just restarted it now that my skills aren’t quite so horrendous as when I started.

My field set of dividers are not near the show quality. The big set are modified Harbour Freights and my usual small set have no markings. I’ve had these for a decade and use them daily.


Bonus, I rock a hand-drill in my tool bag so I don’t have to worry about the shop being out of DeWalt drills or Hot Work permits.:agesilaus:



Edit: woah, are you saying I randomly grabbed a piece of history from this guy’s garage that was made by these folk and owned by some big mind of the time?


If you don't mind my asking, what's your trade that you use those tools with? I notice you mentioned hot permits so you must work industrial. I'm an Insulator by trade myself and I've been debating getting a egg beater hand drill like that for just that scenario as well. :hmmyes:

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003

Mederlock posted:

If you don't mind my asking, what's your trade that you use those tools with? I notice you mentioned hot permits so you must work industrial. I'm an Insulator by trade myself and I've been debating getting a egg beater hand drill like that for just that scenario as well. :hmmyes:

Sup brother of the itch

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

Mederlock posted:

If you don't mind my asking, what's your trade that you use those tools with? I notice you mentioned hot permits so you must work industrial. I'm an Insulator by trade myself and I've been debating getting a egg beater hand drill like that for just that scenario as well. :hmmyes:

There are so many reasons to own one and Stanley still makes them new so there should be no debate.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


I get a ton of use out of my brace that has a modern chuck on it. I honestly love that motherfucker.

Bob Mundon
Dec 1, 2003
Your Friendly Neighborhood Gun Nut
Speaking of oil based poly, it looks like Minwax changed up their label. Did the formula change too? Seems like I remember hearing it dries faster and smells less now but could be mistaken.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




I got a Dewalt DW735 planer delivered today. It arrived a few days late after arriving at a city about 90 miles away, then taking a detour through a few states before coming back to that UPS hub and getting delivered. The box was beat to poo poo, but still sealed and all of the contents were there. Like the box, the Styrofoam inside was beat to poo poo and broken in several places, but I don't see any damage to the planer itself. Before I haul this 92lb chunk of steel down the stairs into my basement, I want to make sure everything is undamaged in case it needs to be returned. Everything I've checked seems good, but I'm a little concerned about how difficult it is to turn the height adjustment crank. I previously had a 12" Ridgid planer and the height adjustment crank turned with very little resistance. The crank on this Dewalt doesn't feel like it is binding, but is definitely a lot harder to turn. Maybe that's normal for the chain drive 4 z-axis worm screw configuration. Maybe I just need to use it a bit or lubricate it. I don't know, and that's why I'm asking here. I have a beam-type torque wrench if anybody wants exact measurements, but generally speaking, I can crank it up and down with only one hand, but I have to switch arms a few times to either raise or lower it the full height because it really wears my arm out. It is definitely a lot harder to crank than the blade height adjust on my saw or any of the handcranks on my milling machine. Is that normal for this planer? I've watched a few youtube videos of unboxing and setup, and nobody has mentioned anything about it one way or the other.

edit: Found this video where he says it "easily raises to about 6"" and he is cranking it from the side. I have to crank mine from the front and put my whole arm into it. I think I'll be returning it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w7C1-HVVkbM&t=157s

edit 2: And right after that segment in the video, he says that some people find the height adjustment difficult right out of the box and suggests some dry lube. Maybe that's all it needs, but being that the box was all beat to hell and the styrofoam inserts (which I think are supposed to be two pieces) are in about 20 broken up pieces, I'd rather just return it.

Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Mar 15, 2023

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


I can't comment specifically on that planer, but if the box arrived beat to poo poo with broken Styrofoam definitely return it. A planer isn't a machine tool level of precision, but I'd definitely send one back if it looked like it had already had a hard life before it even got turned on. Could be a slightly bent pillar or something a little out of whack that's making it hard to raise/lower and that could lead to frustration and all sorts of other problems.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

I can't comment specifically on that planer, but if the box arrived beat to poo poo with broken Styrofoam definitely return it. A planer isn't a machine tool level of precision, but I'd definitely send one back if it looked like it had already had a hard life before it even got turned on. Could be a slightly bent pillar or something a little out of whack that's making it hard to raise/lower and that could lead to frustration and all sorts of other problems.

The only concern I have is that it was purchased as a planer+stand combo which were shipped in two different boxes. The stand arrived several days earlier and I already have that put together. I just hope they don't look at the receipt and refuse to replace it because I'm not also returning the stand. Logic tells me that they would just say "okay" and exchange only the planer, but this is my first time returning something to Home Depot. Even thought I purchased it online and had it delivered, I'm hoping I can take it back to the store and exchange it in person. Anybody know if that would work?

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


SkunkDuster posted:

The only concern I have is that it was purchased as a planer+stand combo which were shipped in two different boxes. The stand arrived several days earlier and I already have that put together. I just hope they don't look at the receipt and refuse to replace it because I'm not also returning the stand. Logic tells me that they would just say "okay" and exchange only the planer, but this is my first time returning something to Home Depot. Even thought I purchased it online and had it delivered, I'm hoping I can take it back to the store and exchange it in person. Anybody know if that would work?
You can definitely return online orders to a HD store. Next time get it shipped to store and then the hosed up box is definitely their problem (and maybe it will never get into UPS' hands and arrive through HD's internal supply chain instead)

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

I have a DW735 and it raises/lowers easily. Yours is hosed up. Maybe repairably hosed up, but go get your money's worth on that warranty, IMO.

Planer owns, btw. I put a spiral head in mine (learned a lot about machines in the process, I have some electronics experience but actually messing with chains and gears and stuff is new) and it's fantastic.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




tracecomplete posted:

I have a DW735 and it raises/lowers easily. Yours is hosed up. Maybe repairably hosed up, but go get your money's worth on that warranty, IMO.

Planer owns, btw. I put a spiral head in mine (learned a lot about machines in the process, I have some electronics experience but actually messing with chains and gears and stuff is new) and it's fantastic.

In one of the videos I watched (linked below with timestamp) he shows that he gets a fantastic finish with new straight blades and speculates that a helical cutter head will give a scalloped finish that is not as smooth as straight blades. Since you have used both cutterheads (and he hasn't) what is your experience and opinion of the finish with each type of blade?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_yEwlsYGbU&t=1249s

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

When new and sharp, I thought the straight blades were fine. As they got dull (and it happened fairly fast, despite mostly being used on softwoods--EWP as well as making chicken salad out of renovation-leftover 2x4/2x6s), some tactile waviness and lines from little nicks and dings started to occur. I could/did sand them out, so whatever. But where the straight blades really sucked was tearout. I did my best to orient boards the right way, but that's not always possible (also exacerbated with softwoods/knots) and then it was A Bad Time.

The helical cutters will eventually need to be rotated, but those things go straight through the woods I'm using without a problem, and to date (~1 year) I have not noticed any quality diminishing that suggests I need to rotate them yet. I don't notice scalloping; the offset on the cutters plus the angling seems absolutely fine to the touch. I do notice much less tearout, verging on none for most pieces, if the board goes through wrong, and when there is some it's a small divot rather than a big chunk.

I don't think it's a necessary upgrade, especially if you're cool with keeping the blades sharp. But I'm an idiot, I don't want to fight with planer blades, and it wasn't that expensive.

tracecomplete fucked around with this message at 04:22 on Mar 15, 2023

Fellatio del Toro
Mar 21, 2009

mine produced a very good finish when I bought it, but eventually started leaving some faint lines on things

however, I recently put together a sharpening setup for some hand tools and in my sharpening spree decided it was time to finally fix the planer blades. I did of course discover they were double sided and I could have just flipped them around (and also cut myself trying to carefully do them by hand...) but my first test run after sharpening was better than any surface I've ever sanded

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer

Fellatio del Toro posted:

mine produced a very good finish when I bought it, but eventually started leaving some faint lines on things

however, I recently put together a sharpening setup for some hand tools and in my sharpening spree decided it was time to finally fix the planer blades. I did of course discover they were double sided and I could have just flipped them around (and also cut myself trying to carefully do them by hand...) but my first test run after sharpening was better than any surface I've ever sanded

Can you post your setup? I'm looking for that exact thing for my jointer and planer blades.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Stultus Maximus posted:

A small house is the only thing saving me from this.

lmao my small house represents at least a dozen of my forever-not-done projects


Sockington posted:

This is me with my basement. I just restarted it now that my skills aren’t quite so horrendous as when I started.

My field set of dividers are not near the show quality. The big set are modified Harbour Freights and my usual small set have no markings. I’ve had these for a decade and use them daily.


Bonus, I rock a hand-drill in my tool bag so I don’t have to worry about the shop being out of DeWalt drills or Hot Work permits.:agesilaus:



Edit: woah, are you saying I randomly grabbed a piece of history from this guy’s garage that was made by these folk and owned by some big mind of the time?


I can't claim to actually use my dividers as often as you, but I do actively look for opportunities! I have a brace & bit setup so I don't really need an eggbeater drill, but I'm working at home so when I want a fast drill experience I just use the power drill. I did just get this cool reamer thing for the brace:


Despite a little surface corrosion you can still see the mill marks, it obviously hasn't been used much if at all and I noticed yesterday that each flute's grind is actually flat in one plane so it can be honed on a diamond plate for example and I'm gonna do just that. This is after hitting it with some wd40 and a wire brush:


I picked up some spiral bits of various types for the brace last year and now I really need a project that requires some holes in it!

Fellatio del Toro
Mar 21, 2009

oXDemosthenesXo posted:

Can you post your setup? I'm looking for that exact thing for my jointer and planer blades.

I am not a sharpening expert and you should not take advice from me, but after spending too much time in the rabbit hole of internet sharpening discussions I ended up going the diamond plate route, mainly due to be long lasting and very low maintenance. specifically three DMT plates and a strop

that said I don't believe the DW735 blades are actually meant to be resharpened and it sounds like taking more than a bit off can make them too short to work properly, so I wouldn't invest a bunch of money primarily for that

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer

Fellatio del Toro posted:

I am not a sharpening expert and you should not take advice from me, but after spending too much time in the rabbit hole of internet sharpening discussions I ended up going the diamond plate route, mainly due to be long lasting and very low maintenance. specifically three DMT plates and a strop

that said I don't believe the DW735 blades are actually meant to be resharpened and it sounds like taking more than a bit off can make them too short to work properly, so I wouldn't invest a bunch of money primarily for that

Awesome thanks.

Currently I have this set: https://www.amazon.com/DMT-W6EFC-6-...rd_i=B003NCVFC4

It's been fine for basic sharpening but the tiny surfaces make alot of sharpening tasks a huge pain. Those big ole plates you linked sure are tempting.

And I have a good strop and abrasive for it already.

Edit:. Which three of the four plates do you use? I'm guessing you don't have the extra extra fine one?

oXDemosthenesXo fucked around with this message at 06:22 on Mar 15, 2023

Fellatio del Toro
Mar 21, 2009

oXDemosthenesXo posted:

Awesome thanks.

Currently I have this set: https://www.amazon.com/DMT-W6EFC-6-...rd_i=B003NCVFC4

It's been fine for basic sharpening but the tiny surfaces make alot of sharpening tasks a huge pain. Those big ole plates you linked sure are tempting.

And I have a good strop and abrasive for it already.

Edit:. Which three of the four plates do you use? I'm guessing you don't have the extra extra fine one?

I have coarse fine and extra fine, same as yours

again though, do not listen to me

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003

Leperflesh posted:

I did just get this cool reamer thing for the brace:


Despite a little surface corrosion you can still see the mill marks, it obviously hasn't been used much if at all and I noticed yesterday that each flute's grind is actually flat in one plane so it can be honed on a diamond plate for example and I'm gonna do just that. This is after hitting it with some wd40 and a wire brush:


I’ve got this hand one I picked up at a yard sale and haven’t really found the right job to use it on.
It might be good for putting a chamfer on bigger holes I guess.



Also: Reamer chat.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


the trifluted wood owl auger bits are extremely good btw too. Not just kinda good: extremely good. One of the best purchases I've made.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


tracecomplete posted:

When new and sharp, I thought the straight blades were fine. As they got dull (and it happened fairly fast, despite mostly being used on softwoods--EWP as well as making chicken salad out of renovation-leftover 2x4/2x6s), some tactile waviness and lines from little nicks and dings started to occur. I could/did sand them out, so whatever. But where the straight blades really sucked was tearout. I did my best to orient boards the right way, but that's not always possible (also exacerbated with softwoods/knots) and then it was A Bad Time.

The helical cutters will eventually need to be rotated, but those things go straight through the woods I'm using without a problem, and to date (~1 year) I have not noticed any quality diminishing that suggests I need to rotate them yet. I don't notice scalloping; the offset on the cutters plus the angling seems absolutely fine to the touch. I do notice much less tearout, verging on none for most pieces, if the board goes through wrong, and when there is some it's a small divot rather than a big chunk.

I don't think it's a necessary upgrade, especially if you're cool with keeping the blades sharp. But I'm an idiot, I don't want to fight with planer blades, and it wasn't that expensive.

Do you notice a big difference in noise and dust collection? My jointer with a spiral (but not helical) head is waaaay quieter than I would expect even face jointing very wide stuff and the dust collection never clogs. My planer with straight knives clogs up a lot though, especially in softer woods where the chips don’t break up. I’ve been thinking of getting a spiral head for it but they’re like $3500 and the planer is 20 years old and I’m not sure I want to put that kind of money into it.

Fellatio del Toro
Mar 21, 2009

I did find that over time my DW735 kept increasingly tripping the breaker. at first I thought it might just be an old breaker wearing out from repeated trips, but I replaced the breaker and spent a while trying to see if there was anything else running on that circuit but it didn't seem to matter much. I had a 20A circuit put in for the dust collector because the Harbor Freight site said that's what it needed, which was definitely not accurate, so eventually I just swapped them

now I'm realizing it might have just been from the blades dulling and I'm curious if a helical cutter would help there. I'd prefer not to destroy the motor if it's pulling too much

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

Fellatio del Toro posted:

I did find that over time my DW735 kept increasingly tripping the breaker. at first I thought it might just be an old breaker wearing out from repeated trips, but I replaced the breaker and spent a while trying to see if there was anything else running on that circuit but it didn't seem to matter much. I had a 20A circuit put in for the dust collector because the Harbor Freight site said that's what it needed, which was definitely not accurate, so eventually I just swapped them

now I'm realizing it might have just been from the blades dulling and I'm curious if a helical cutter would help there. I'd prefer not to destroy the motor if it's pulling too much

After a few years I’ve started having trouble with my HF dust collector tripping the breaker when my table saw runs on the same circuit. I don’t think your planer is the issue.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Stultus Maximus posted:

After a few years I’ve started having trouble with my HF dust collector tripping the breaker when my table saw runs on the same circuit. I don’t think your planer is the issue.

Oy, with the circuits. I struggled for a while with the main circuit for the garage. 15amp, also includes part of the basement where I have my chest freezer plugged in.

On cold days, when the garage drops below 50*, If my air compressor kicks on, the inrush is enough to trip the breaker. I've worked around that but just leaving the compressor off.

But even after that, I struggled with that breaker when I was running the DW735 and ANYTHING else. I found a workaround, though, in that my garage doors are on a separate circuit of their own, so I ran an extension cord to one of those outlets so I can plug my dust collector in there, and run the planer from the other circuit.

I'm kicking myself for running a 30amp 220v circuit for my garage heater. I should have run a 50amp and put in a subpanel to run the shop equipment. Live and learn.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Fellatio del Toro posted:

I did find that over time my DW735 kept increasingly tripping the breaker. at first I thought it might just be an old breaker wearing out from repeated trips, but I replaced the breaker and spent a while trying to see if there was anything else running on that circuit but it didn't seem to matter much. I had a 20A circuit put in for the dust collector because the Harbor Freight site said that's what it needed, which was definitely not accurate, so eventually I just swapped them

now I'm realizing it might have just been from the blades dulling and I'm curious if a helical cutter would help there. I'd prefer not to destroy the motor if it's pulling too much
In general helical heads actually put a bit more strain on the motor because a cutter is always in contact with the wood whereas with straight knives the knives are only in contact with the wood some smaller percentage of the time. That may be offset to some extent by a cleaner cutting action?

El Spamo
Aug 21, 2003

Fuss and misery
Speaking of helical cutter heads, I'm considering an upgrade to my planer, a craftsman lunchbox which honestly has been doing yeoman's work getting planks down to desired thickness without too much in the way of snipe or tearout and is just about due for a new set of blades.

But, I don't have a jointer so right now I run a combination of a router setup or table saw sled for edge jointing and a sled for surface jointing with the planer which gets a bit hairy if the piece is longer than 24" or so. This combo tool (https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-12-combo-planer-jointer/g0959) processes the same board widths that I can currently handle so I wouldn't lose out on capacity or anything. Anyone have any experience with these guys?

For what it's worth my plan is saving up this year's proceeds from craft fair sales to put towards some kind of equipment upgrade and this one has been on my mind. The current planer easily has a lot of life left in it, and I keep it reasonably clean and well lubricated so it would be a good thing to pass on as a used tool for sale IF it were replaced.

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010
Bigger combos are fine, I probably wouldn't trust that little one, looks to be a bit flimsy. It weighs about the same as a DW735 despite having jointer tables and what looks to be a bigger footprint. If your planer is still working I'd put that money into a stand-alone jointer, if you're set on a combo machine I'd save up (maybe try and buy a used jointer in the interim).

edit: benchtop jointers in general are poorly regarded.

El Spamo
Aug 21, 2003

Fuss and misery
I mean, almost everything is better as a cabinet but that space usage adds up FAST.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


oof yeah I was excited about that thing until I saw 95lb. You could easily push that over trying to face join a 12" board on it.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Also, happy 1000 pages Woodworking Thread! I've only been here for 500 pages of it, but this is one of my favorite threads on the forums and I love seeing what everyone is doing.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Getting in on that page 1000 posting. I don't do a fraction of what some of you guys do, but I'm learning!

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

Leperflesh posted:

I picked up some spiral bits of various types for the brace last year and now I really need a project that requires some holes in it!

Stick chair!

El Spamo
Aug 21, 2003

Fuss and misery
Ironically, despite my concern over space usage I have built several multipurpose mobile workstations that I've mounted benchtop tools to. Drill press, planer, sander, even my table saw is on cart wheels that I can move around where I want it. But the thing I like is that I can tuck away tools that I'm not actively using and wheel the ones I am using out into a central spot where it's easy to work with them. That and the space underneath the cart surface is great for storing all the accessories that a tool comes with and any jigs I build for them.

Which reminds me, I need to re-do the router table cart. Which makes me think that an alternative to the jointer/planer combo tool would be to invest in upgrading my router table to a much fancier one. The current one was pretty cheap, and again has been a solid performer but unlike the big tool I could easily get a top-flight router table with all sorts of gizmos for like... half the price I'm sure.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

El Spamo posted:

Ironically, despite my concern over space usage I have built several multipurpose mobile workstations that I've mounted benchtop tools to. Drill press, planer, sander, even my table saw is on cart wheels that I can move around where I want it. But the thing I like is that I can tuck away tools that I'm not actively using and wheel the ones I am using out into a central spot where it's easy to work with them. That and the space underneath the cart surface is great for storing all the accessories that a tool comes with and any jigs I build for them.

Which reminds me, I need to re-do the router table cart. Which makes me think that an alternative to the jointer/planer combo tool would be to invest in upgrading my router table to a much fancier one. The current one was pretty cheap, and again has been a solid performer but unlike the big tool I could easily get a top-flight router table with all sorts of gizmos for like... half the price I'm sure.

I really need to reorganize my entire shop. I don't have a ton of projects in flight at the moment, so I think once I get them done (have to repair a table leg for my parent's kitchen table, have to put a last coat of finish on a wall cabinet), I think I'm gonna move *everything* out and around and figure out how to rearrange things.

My shop space is a little less than half my basement, about 9' wide, 18'-ish long, so space is always at a premium, but I'd love to have space for a jointer and a 14" bandsaw at some point. I also need more storage, probably in the form of drawers/cabinets for hardware/small tools/jigs/etc. I also only have two usable walls, so there's not a lot of room to get stuff off the floor.

more falafel please fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Mar 15, 2023

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PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
Awesome drill bits I've learned about from Youtubers:

Wood Owl Overdrive bits: the least exit-side tearout I've ever seen from a bit without drilling from both sides of the board.
Single-flute countersink bits: ultra clean and consistent countersinks

You can get both from Taytools.

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