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tuyop
Sep 15, 2006

Every second that we're not growing BASIL is a second wasted

Fun Shoe
Regarding baseboard drama, it does kind of sound like the easiest option is to attach some wood to the wall and paint it, then put the shelving against that.

But I can’t cut a notch into these Kallaxes, eh? They’re just full of cardboard hexagons inside right?

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That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


tuyop posted:

Regarding baseboard drama, it does kind of sound like the easiest option is to attach some wood to the wall and paint it, then put the shelving against that.

But I can’t cut a notch into these Kallaxes, eh? They’re just full of cardboard hexagons inside right?

Yeah they aren't gonna do great with a notch cut out of them / you'd probably get some delamination of the outer surface etc that would look lovely.

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT

tuyop posted:

Regarding baseboard drama, it does kind of sound like the easiest option is to attach some wood to the wall and paint it, then put the shelving against that.

But I can’t cut a notch into these Kallaxes, eh? They’re just full of cardboard hexagons inside right?

Tape some PVC trim (really cheap and pure white) to the top of the piece, not the wall. They make it in all sorts of profiles, and it's easy to cut and clean. You can find pieces for like a few bucks that would leave you with extra length.

It'll make a lip that you can remove and patch over more easily later if you use tape vs glue on IKEA furniture, but I would definitely not gently caress with my walls for a piece of furniture specifically designed to be flat packed and installed without modifications to the existing house.

Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 22:16 on Sep 13, 2023

The Midniter
Jul 9, 2001

We’re redoing our kitchen and the top cabinets have glass doors so we’re looking for battery powered puck lights that are wifi and/or Bluetooth as well as Alexa-enabled if possible. Any goon hive mind consensus on a top pick?

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


If cabinets are being replaced, why not hard wire lighting?

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Battery powered lights are gonna be garbage, because they’re mean to be disposable

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Jenkl posted:

My dishwasher (GE Profile, blegh) door seems to have lost some but not all tension. I don't think the cords or springs are completely loose or broken as the door doesn't just drop, but it doesn't hold at all in the first half of its range of motion.

Does that sound like maybe the springs are worn? Maybe someone sat on the door and they got overextended?

That's not something that can be adjusted or something, is it?

I'm hoping to buy the parts in advance and not need to remove the dishwasher twice, once to investigate and once to repair.

I adjusted the spring on my dishwasher door, you probably can too.

Plug you DW's info into a place like repairclinic.com and see if they have videos for replacing various parts of it. One of those things might be the spring.
I found a video on how to replace a pump on mine a few years ago and since then I've replaced other poo poo too.

In my case, it required me to unscrew it from underneath the counter and slide it out. You may or may not have to unhook other things (water line, electrical) to do this depending on how much slack there is in them.

VictualSquid
Feb 29, 2012

Gently enveloping the target with indiscriminate love.

tuyop posted:

I have huge baseboards and they interfere with furniture. Look!
What are the options to like, have furniture against my walls?

Laziest option is to extend the top plate of your furniture.
It helps if you are concerned with things falling behind your shelves, not much for other considerations. You can do it by adding a larger plate over the existing top plate or by finding a fitting piece and fixing it to the side.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
Six of my house’s original Eighteen pella casing windows need new operators. I found the exact part online is $200 a piece. This seems criminal but it’s a 40 year old part and trying to use whatever is available at Lowe’s sounds terrible.

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


Here's a stupid question, I have an electric heat pump that does my heating and cooling at home, is there any sort of Maintenance that needs to be done on this thing? I know there's a filter inside that I have to clean around this time of year but beyond that is there anything that I should be doing with the outside unit, or someone that I should be calling to do something with it? Or do you basically just run them until they die

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

Opopanax posted:

Here's a stupid question, I have an electric heat pump that does my heating and cooling at home, is there any sort of Maintenance that needs to be done on this thing? I know there's a filter inside that I have to clean around this time of year but beyond that is there anything that I should be doing with the outside unit, or someone that I should be calling to do something with it? Or do you basically just run them until they die

Look up the manual, it should have a maintenance schedule in it if it needs routine work.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Opopanax posted:

Here's a stupid question, I have an electric heat pump that does my heating and cooling at home, is there any sort of Maintenance that needs to be done on this thing? I know there's a filter inside that I have to clean around this time of year but beyond that is there anything that I should be doing with the outside unit, or someone that I should be calling to do something with it? Or do you basically just run them until they die

Yes. Besides the filter the inside and outside coils need to be cleaned.

Sir Sidney Poitier
Aug 14, 2006

My favourite actor


I came to this subforum looking for a jewellery making thread but didn't find one.

I've been watching videos of people making 24k gold jewellery because I find it satisfying. They always seem to have a step in which they appear to use a tool to put a shiny finish on it - the tool looks like some needle but I've not been able to find out what it is:



All my attempts at googling turn up other things like polishing cloths. Does anyone know what the tool is?

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Sir Sidney Poitier posted:

I came to this subforum looking for a jewellery making thread but didn't find one.

I've been watching videos of people making 24k gold jewellery because I find it satisfying. They always seem to have a step in which they appear to use a tool to put a shiny finish on it - the tool looks like some needle but I've not been able to find out what it is:



All my attempts at googling turn up other things like polishing cloths. Does anyone know what the tool is?
Huh, I thought there was a jewelry thread somewhere. I think some people in the metalworking thread might do jewelry, so you might ask there.

Might be a burnisher? I know for gold leafing the leaf gets burnished with an agate burnisher to bring up the shine.

Imasalmon
Mar 19, 2003

Meet me in the Hall of Fame

Sir Sidney Poitier posted:

I came to this subforum looking for a jewellery making thread but didn't find one.

I've been watching videos of people making 24k gold jewellery because I find it satisfying. They always seem to have a step in which they appear to use a tool to put a shiny finish on it - the tool looks like some needle but I've not been able to find out what it is:



All my attempts at googling turn up other things like polishing cloths. Does anyone know what the tool is?

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3894756

Try over in that thread.

Sir Sidney Poitier
Aug 14, 2006

My favourite actor


Thank you for the suggestions.

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Might be a burnisher?

Based on looking up some videos this is what it appears to be. I found an example of a similar process here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FEk7thRGo9k

dupersaurus
Aug 1, 2012

Futurism was an art movement where dudes were all 'CARS ARE COOL AND THE PAST IS FOR CHUMPS. LET'S DRAW SOME CARS.'
Yeah that’s definitely a burnisher

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns



:mods: please go snatch that thread and bring it to HCH

Paul MaudDib
May 3, 2006

TEAM NVIDIA:
FORUM POLICE
my well-pump/tank water system has very low pressure at the "bottom" so to speak. all the faucets slow down. external faucets the sprinkler hoses lose most of their power. etc. as soon as the wellpump cycles on it's fixed. I tried putting a touch more pressure in the well tank to see if that helped, that actually made my fridge's icemaker angry from the higher pressure I think. I don't know if the wellpump controller needs to be adjusted to kick on sooner or what. it looks like it might have been a later retrofit (doesn't look 90s) so maybe it wasn't ever adjusted right by the absentee landlord.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Paul MaudDib posted:

my well-pump/tank water system has very low pressure at the "bottom" so to speak. all the faucets slow down. external faucets the sprinkler hoses lose most of their power. etc. as soon as the wellpump cycles on it's fixed. I tried putting a touch more pressure in the well tank to see if that helped, that actually made my fridge's icemaker angry from the higher pressure I think. I don't know if the wellpump controller needs to be adjusted to kick on sooner or what. it looks like it might have been a later retrofit (doesn't look 90s) so maybe it wasn't ever adjusted right by the absentee landlord.

The pump cut in is low. It may be low for a reason. Your pressure switch may not have an adjustable split at all so adjusting the low cut in would also make the high cut out too high. Do not adjust pressure tank pressure to attempt to "fix" anything other than incorrect tank pressure: they are set along with the cut in and cut out pressures. Do not do any of this to a system you do not own.

El Mero Mero
Oct 13, 2001

okay crappy construction time. The loving Gary PO installed the hood range at our place with flexible dryer ducting. He also drilled the hole for the outside vent like this:



Which is 4" and offset at a cruel angle. I haven't hit up my local home despot yet, but I'm not even sure I'll be able to find rigid ducting that can make this bend.

Do I really need to make a new exterior hole for this?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

El Mero Mero posted:

okay crappy construction time. The loving Gary PO installed the hood range at our place with flexible dryer ducting. He also drilled the hole for the outside vent like this:



Which is 4" and offset at a cruel angle. I haven't hit up my local home despot yet, but I'm not even sure I'll be able to find rigid ducting that can make this bend.

Do I really need to make a new exterior hole for this?

You're looking for, at a minimum, an "adjustable 90", where each segment can pivot. You see where that gets you and then best case maybe you just need a short straight section.

I don't think this is a thing at a big box store.

Gravid Topiary
Feb 16, 2012

does anyone have any lifehacks on how i can more easily lift and hold a 4x8 sheet of OSB exterior sheathing up about 6 feet off the ground, by myself? it's 3/8" thick board

last year i had no problem handling and nailing/screwing boards like these all by my lonesome but i started hormone replacement at the start of this year and now i super don't got the upper body strength :shrug:

i guess i could saw the sheet in half but if there's an easier way that would be sweet, i'm exhausted

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
Search “drywall lift”

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007



On the god awful 1980s builder grade range hood that came with our house, there is an identification label. I know what CFM means but what is HOR and VER and why do they seemingly have the same CFM rating but different sones ratings?

This is for the purpose of benchmarking our current range hood and buying a quieter one.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

kreeningsons posted:



On the god awful 1980s builder grade range hood that came with our house, there is an identification label. I know what CFM means but what is HOR and VER and why do they seemingly have the same CFM rating but different sones ratings?

This is for the purpose of benchmarking our current range hood and buying a quieter one.

Horizontal or vertical exit.

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Motronic posted:

Horizontal or vertical exit.

Makes sense, thanks

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I would like to move this junction box about three feet away. I asked an electrician and he asked if I had cement ceilings (in which case he'd need to use a raceway, which is definitely not my preference) - is there anyway to know for sure? i'm on the bottom floor of a condo built in 2005 if that's relevant.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Horatius Bonar
Sep 8, 2011

Yes, that very much looks like drywall. How much space above is an open question but it's at least enough for the depth of that box.

I guess slap it to see how it sounds but there should be framing, I don't think it's likely to be glued to what's above.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Horatius Bonar posted:

Yes, that very much looks like drywall. How much space above is an open question but it's at least enough for the depth of that box.

I guess slap it to see how it sounds but there should be framing, I don't think it's likely to be glued to what's above.

yeah it is drywall, my question would be is that amount of space open above the rest of the ceiling. if it is then presumably the wires could just be run from the current to the new box above the ceiling

Horatius Bonar
Sep 8, 2011

Is there a ceiling access panel somewhere else in your condo to stick your head up and look? Do you have any exposed concrete ceiling to see where the bottom of the concrete slab is? Do other rooms have higher or lower ceilings? Most importantly, is your condo in a concrete tower or in fact a wood framed lowrise building?

Maybe that picture is enough for the electrician.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Horatius Bonar posted:

Is there a ceiling access panel somewhere else in your condo to stick your head up and look? Do you have any exposed concrete ceiling to see where the bottom of the concrete slab is? Do other rooms have higher or lower ceilings? Most importantly, is your condo in a concrete tower or in fact a wood framed lowrise building?

Maybe that picture is enough for the electrician.

i think there may be an access panel but only for the third floor - it's only a three floor building. all the units have the same 10' ceilings. Now that I think about it, some of the external sprinklers have to be tested, which involves opening the ceiling, so I have to imagine there is space up there (I have had the wall opened to put in a new box in my bathroom and there are wood joists, if that helps).

would there have to be a joist where I want the new box placed?

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Sep 21, 2023

tactlessbastard
Feb 4, 2001

Godspeed, post
Fun Shoe
Because of my poor life choices I live in a house that has cabinet doors and children living in it.

As an inevitable consequence, I have a sprung cabinet door. Is there any other fix than flat out replacing the hinges (and hoping to source matching ones)?

Horatius Bonar
Sep 8, 2011

actionjackson posted:

i think there may be an access panel but only for the third floor - it's only a three floor building. all the units have the same 10' ceilings. Now that I think about it, some of the external sprinklers have to be tested, which involves opening the ceiling, so I have to imagine there is space up there (I have had the wall opened to put in a new box in my bathroom and there are wood joists, if that helps).

would there have to be a joist where I want the new box placed?

Well to me it sure sounds like you live in a wood frame building so unless you have reason to believe there's any concrete above your head, you will not have to worry about that. Your strata / property manager would be able to confirm I bet.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Horatius Bonar posted:

Well to me it sure sounds like you live in a wood frame building so unless you have reason to believe there's any concrete above your head, you will not have to worry about that. Your strata / property manager would be able to confirm I bet.

I did talk to the electrician again, he had be probe the space (both going all the way up and to the side, from where the wires come from) and it's empty, just some of those insulation bits. sounds like it's good to go!

C-Euro
Mar 20, 2010

:science:
Soiled Meat
Need to move my stove away from the wall to look for a mouse, this thing is heavy and I have no idea what it's connected to in the back nor how much slack those connections have for moving. Is there a proper way to pull your stove out from the wall?

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe
There will be at least enough slack to pull it out a foot or two to take a look at what is going on back there.

Beef Of Ages
Jan 11, 2003

Your dumb is leaking.

C-Euro posted:

Need to move my stove away from the wall to look for a mouse, this thing is heavy and I have no idea what it's connected to in the back nor how much slack those connections have for moving. Is there a proper way to pull your stove out from the wall?

Do it slowly and check behind it when you have enough to get an eyeball over the back and see what you're dealing with. There should be enough slack in the power (and gas if it's a gas stove) lines to accomplish a full pull out but you never know what Gary did so don't yank it all the way out until you know.

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
Snowblower issue. But anyone with knowledge about rusty and seized parts might be able to help.



This drive shaft collar is seized to my snowblower wheel. Reallllyy seized. Any suggestions for separating the two? I currently have it sitting in my garage soaking in PB blaster but judging from a similar experience that I had previously with another snowblower (wheel seized onto axle) I don't think the PB Blaster is going to cut it. I tried putting stud wood on top and hammering it downward but then it started cutting into the wood. If I had access to a hydraulic press I would press the damned thing out.

I could try heat but all I have is a MAPP torch and I think I need a torch that can get red hot in order to try the heat approach.

Snowblower is about 15 years old with very poor maintenance history.

Ideas?

melon cat fucked around with this message at 00:46 on Sep 25, 2023

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

melon cat posted:

If I had access to a hydraulic press I would press the damned thing out.

I could try heat but all I have is a MAPP torch and I think I need a torch that can get red hot in order to try the heat approach.

Like all rust removal/unsticking jobs, this has more to do with what you have available that might work or help than anything else. I'd be heating it with an oxy torch while banging on it with an air hammer.

Your probably-not-actually-mapp torch is a good start. What do you have to move it? If not an air chisel at least a 3 lb sledge and have it set up in a plae where you can whack it and allot it to fall free.

Motronic fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Sep 25, 2023

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