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Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


When did you buy a dumbass detector

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Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000


Ultra Carp
:boomshaka:

aniviron
Sep 11, 2014

Who is Max, one of the plasterers?

fluppet
Feb 10, 2009
Time to play with the poo pipe

Failed Imagineer
Sep 22, 2018

fluppet posted:

Time to play with the poo pipe

Only on birthdays and the high holidays

NotJustANumber99
Feb 15, 2012

somehow that last av was even worse than your posting
Right so Change of pace a bit.

So whilst plasterman and the shitister six have been inside and I have been having to keep up with them boarding out rooms just ahead of them and doing door frames and stuff. I have also had time to make use of the last of the global warming and get outside to do some stuff out of their way.

Think I said about cladding getting delivered



Need to get that all up. Which is going to require battening out the whole exterior with vertical battens.

Solution (cos blocks bad) is:

- Place cut to length batten against wall, plumb and mark position.

- predrill with little bit 4 -5 holes through batten to mark blockwork.

- drill out marked spots with larger bit and install rawlplugs

- smash batten in with a bunch of big nasty screws being careful never to overtighten and risk gouging out blockholes



It is a bit of a protracted process as I need multiple drill bits and screwdrivery bits etc and I havent got enough batteries and bits and hands to do it all without faffing about all the time.

oh and some comlicated doubly batten bits at the corners and stuff to avoid drilling too close to edges and blowing out blocks





then get boarding. Use nail gun as finally a bit quick. Plus I bought 5000 galvanised 50mm nails instending to use on roof that were wrong. so good to use those up



Then make some cladding spacers that get screwed in every... clad(?) to vertically space things properly and gives me something to sit the board on whilst I fix it up.



To minimise wastage trying to lap the lengths. as in using the offcut piece to start the next if its long enough. Which requires a few extra battens whacked in to handle the jointing points where the boards whould be otherwise unsupported.



Started on the back where mistakes will be less soul destroying. And its easier cos no windows. And it flies up.





Until I get to the point where I'll need to cut around the exposed rafter ends. Also need a couple of extra, short battens inbetween each rafter space to support the short boards that will need to go in up there. making sense? lol?



Anyway I do one board that needs rafter cutouts and think gently caress all this and carry on with the easier bits Ialready know how to do



which immediately chucks me up against the doors and windows that need bespoke reveal boards cutting up, in and around them to finish the cladding ends against.



which is a bit of a head scratch but not so bad. Use headless screws to fix them in that you can barely see





Same again round the next corner





theres some wiring to deal with here too. mental note not to nail/screw through there later on

Get to the bifolds and have to remove the covers that have been on there ages.



Lots of giant spiders.



progress is pretty...



slow



But I guess that goes without saying really in this thread.



At the end of the front door elevation there is a new challenge in the shape of the oak framed garage to deal with finishing against.



You can sort of see at the bottom there the blockwork and oak are flush.



but very much not so by the top. Hmmm.

Oak is plumb. SO I'm just going to hack the blockwork away which wont take much.



yeah

But now how to finish over this bit and the other side to match? I have some grubby oak that was actually freebie bits that were just packing on my actual oak. So I'll use them to segue from oak to cedar to hide my blockwork shame.



as i say. grubby

but cleans up



and used some headless screws to whack it on (ignore everything dumped in the carhole)



lol you can see there the fence fix I did on the pub fence thats rotted out and it falling against the house. There is still a shorter not rotten fence post under there so I jhust used my massive bulk to lean against it all to make it verticle, used a chunky offcut off wood, and nailed the gently caress out of it all



Plasterman is in the big lounge by now where I had all my saws setup so need to move out but have failed to miss the rains and the weather has turned so had to setup outside.



bit dismal at times.

Then run out of batten but like not by enough to make a delivery worthwhile so have to collect it myself.



get back and my tents blown away



Anyway Were only part way through this update by I'll leave you here down the end battening away. it smells a bit toilety down here.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Towards L shape architecture: it smells a bit toilety down here

Lord Awkward
Feb 16, 2012

NotJustANumber99 posted:

...
which is a bit of a head scratch but not so bad. Use headless screws to fix them in that you can barely see


...

It's looking quite nice with the cladding on, shame to have to burn it all down after getting this far along but

quote:

...
Lots of giant spiders.


...

Bobby Deluxe
May 9, 2004

We all smell a bit toilety down here, Georgie.

Raised by Hamsters
Sep 16, 2007

and hopped up on bagels

NotJustANumber99 posted:


But I guess that goes without saying really in this thread.




Oooh! Oooh! I recognize that!

NotJustANumber99 posted:


Proposed elevations

real life pictures



Looks nice. Always fun seeing final details appearing.

Fidelitious
Apr 17, 2018

MY BIRTH CRY WILL BE THE SOUND OF EVERY WALLET ON THIS PLANET OPENING IN UNISON.
Mate, I think that's a house now.

Dysgenesis
Jul 12, 2012

HAVE AT THEE!


I refuse to believe that this house is going to end up looking anything like the plans.

NotJustANumber99
Feb 15, 2012

somehow that last av was even worse than your posting
well in terms of plans. My plans were chuck it up in 6 months, live in it for 3 years to clear CIL requirements, get further planning, sell up a millionaire and disappear into the distance on my yacht with my trophy wife. So yeah, rest assured the plans are out the loving window.

NotJustANumber99
Feb 15, 2012

somehow that last av was even worse than your posting
ok so one of the reasons I havent ventured cladding wise towards the top of my walls is the lack of decision making over how to deal with all the lights, cameras etc that I plan to have outside. Gotta deal with it though



So initial plan is invert a bit of board and pipe a wire through for a light.

an up down lighter. there isnt much up... whatever



these are cheap but utter dogshit... how are you supposed to get all this to work?



Smushing wires in etc.

New plan. Unwire the light backbox, dont smush it it and set it back behind my inverted board.



Its actually two boards to make it plumb. and I have to gently caress with it. Cos nothings ever quite right

hmmm



that seems pretty good

Elsewhere got poo poo to deal with. The internet coming in. Which is important



posting these in order. A shot of it looking pretty good



Round the back things have got pretty messy. Wet and muddy. loving slipping about all over the shop



no gutters you see



which have now arrived

But probably too late for the neighbours fence whih my house has been pissing roof water on for... well since they put it there. Dont see why I should be in trouble. But yeah, its hosed





Its nearly Halloween so sort out my expansion joints



Cladding down the back which is quite tricky. Gotta carry those 4.8m boars in vertically then lower down to install.



dunno why. If its them being left out? but some of them are beginning to my banana as gently caress. So need to lean up and down on them to get them to sit straight.





Lol This picture reminded me. Even without that gotta carry all the boards round which has to be done in a vaguely charlie chaplin esque fashion. I also timed myself walking the perimeter of the building. 1min 20 secs



at this point I seem to have made an effort to sharpen my pencil



right wtf am i doing here? not figured out at all



I have some lead leftover.

Again I find a quick lick often results in a few ideas and were off!





So grind a slit in the blocks and feed in a lead flashing under each slate, to be topped by the next creating a cascading lead protection



mortar in



Lol I've missed some photos here but now its pissing down and maybe you get the idea?



my drone is poo poo

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

NotJustANumber99 posted:

dunno why. If its them being left out? but some of them are beginning to my banana as gently caress. So need to lean up and down on them to get them to sit straight.


I did say


Leperflesh posted:

Western Red Cedar is Thuja plicata, which is not a true cedar tree (genus Cedrus) but is named as such because the wood has that cedar smell and a reddish look to it as well as being soft and having similar working characteristics. Giving totally different trees the same name of their wood is a very common and longstanding practice in the lumber industry - the worst offender is "mahogany" but there's several other situations like this. WRC looks different colors in canada vs. britain because of different minerals in the soil and different growing conditions for the tree. How knotty the wood is is grade, which is or at least should be independent from the name and location of the wood: e.g. you'd pay more per board foot for "clear" planks than for knotty, cracked, warped, etc. planks of any species, normally. But maybe clear british western red cedar just isn't available for any price? Anyway it should be obvious why imported wood costs more than local stuff.

If you're doing cladding though, you probably don't give a poo poo about knots. They add character. But you should care about twisty boards that will be a ball ache to nail to the walls, and all boards cup or twist or both at least a little but if its bad you can wind up with a load of wood you can't really use. So I'd be very picky and specific and if you possibly can, visually inspect and choose your purchases rather than just order a load to arrive shipped to you that you have to pay for sight unseen.

If you just got a bunch of cedar delivered you're either going to have to pick out boards that aren't suitable and not use them, or, deal with a fair few that warp and twist and cup. Especially since it looks like you're using them roughsawn and exposed with no treatment or paint? Is that right?

NotJustANumber99
Feb 15, 2012

somehow that last av was even worse than your posting
you cant make me tell you anything

NotJustANumber99
Feb 15, 2012

somehow that last av was even worse than your posting
but yeah

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000


Ultra Carp

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Ru8DMW-grY

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


NotJustANumber99 posted:

Elsewhere got poo poo to deal with. The internet coming in. Which is important



Did you supply the trunking or the telecoms company? I have need for exactly this sort of thing where it adapts a larger conduit to something flat running up a wall with a couple smaller cables in.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Jaded Burnout posted:

Did you supply the trunking or the telecoms company? I have need for exactly this sort of thing where it adapts a larger conduit to something flat running up a wall with a couple smaller cables in.

oop, found it!

https://maenetworks.co.uk/category/external-underground/bt-ducting/cable-entry-covers/

NotJustANumber99
Feb 15, 2012

somehow that last av was even worse than your posting
BT gave me the grey bits.

theyre uggo and i hate them. but theyre hidden away in the toilety bit

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer
This may be more of a philosophical question, but is cladding of masonry just aesthetic? Like with stick frame, you have plywood sheathing which is structural and needs weather protection. In theory could you just paint your blocks?

Also sinking flashing into the structural part makes me squeamish (maybe another stick frame bias?)

Fidelitious
Apr 17, 2018

MY BIRTH CRY WILL BE THE SOUND OF EVERY WALLET ON THIS PLANET OPENING IN UNISON.

Epitope posted:

This may be more of a philosophical question, but is cladding of masonry just aesthetic? Like with stick frame, you have plywood sheathing which is structural and needs weather protection. In theory could you just paint your blocks?

A quick looks says yes, you can use even aerated blockwork as external but you still need to render on top of it to protect them.
And I'd say that wood cladding is much nicer looking than sandy cement as a cover.

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


Epitope posted:

This may be more of a philosophical question, but is cladding of masonry just aesthetic? Like with stick frame, you have plywood sheathing which is structural and needs weather protection. In theory could you just paint your blocks?

Also sinking flashing into the structural part makes me squeamish (maybe another stick frame bias?)

I suspect for super aerated blocks it's necessary for weather protection (I don't think they'd hold up well to being damp and going through freeze thaw cycles) but it isn't required as a rule. There are obviously loads of structural red brick buildings around the world, if you look around old French towns you can often seen newer buildings and extensions with slightly ugly unclad masonry on exterior walls made of something that I guess is in-between what njan is using and brick (I think it's meant to be clad/plastered but often isn't)

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Masonry construction usually has two skins with a cavity, two brick-thickness walls tied together with small metal wires, so there's usually a lot less cold/moisture bridging between the two.

Historically the two leaves were both red brick, so the outer skin formed the visual exterior of the house. Nowadays we often build with concrete blocks because it's faster (one block is the equivalent of 6 bricks) but they look uglier, so often the inner skin will be block with an outer skin of brick, or there'll be a fake-ish brick cladding put on the outside, or it's rendered or painted or (less commonly here) clad in wood.

So yeah technically you can leave it exposed, though with all the rain it's not a bad idea to have a rain screen of some kind, and eventually it will spall anyway after a hundo years of freeze/thaw cycles. I'm happier to leave my dense block extension unclad (on the bit facing the neighbours) than I would be if it was foamcrete stuff like 99 has.

Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 14:23 on Oct 30, 2023

NotJustANumber99
Feb 15, 2012

somehow that last av was even worse than your posting
Yeah it's aesthetic. But also yeah it's necessary to fully cover the blockwork to protect it from the elements.

An alternative would be to render it all. The plasterers that I had do that a lot and said basically the parge coat I had on the inside is what they'd use to render the outside of a blockwork building.

The block manufacturers specify that if you do that you need to use the 140mm wider blocks rather than the 100mm I've got to avoid the render drying cycle from cracking the blockwork underneath.

I assume that's not necessary inside as my plaster walls aren't going to face weather cycles on the inside.

The French seem to use a lot of those red clay, semi hollow interlocking blocks from what I saw. No-one here seems to. Dunno what the differences/advantages are.

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


NotJustANumber99 posted:

The French seem to use a lot of those red clay, semi hollow interlocking blocks from what I saw. No-one here seems to. Dunno what the differences/advantages are.

Our house is partially made of these (we're in France). They also tend to do bands of them where they fill up the hollow bits with concrete, idk why presumably a structural rigidity thing. They're absolutely everywhere though and I guess they're doing something right as house construction seems to be a good combination of fast and substantial (once you've actually found someone to do it anyway).

Here's a fun photo of a local building that was almost entirely demolished before being extended with three different wall materials on display. I can only assume they kept that one wall as a workaround to planning rules.

NotJustANumber99
Feb 15, 2012

somehow that last av was even worse than your posting
Yeah they do seem to fly up.

I also noticed, where I was at least, every little house build gets it own site crane! Also everyone seemed to know someone with a telehandler they can have lying around doing not a lot until they're really handy.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007


Ok but just like, understand that you can't prevent a board from warping and poo poo just by nailing it down. The forces of water swelling fibers are stronger. If it can't pry a nail out it'll crack instead.

I'm not saying that's definitely gonna happen but I am saying it's definitely not unlikely

And if you coat all the cedar in weatherproofing seal that will reduce the likelihood and severity (and help preserve the color) so maybe that's an option?

NotJustANumber99
Feb 15, 2012

somehow that last av was even worse than your posting
2 nails?

Dead Goon
Dec 13, 2002

No Obvious Flaws



Screws always seem more secure to me.

Have you tried screwing it?

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

There's a lot of advice in this area
https://www.google.com/search?q=warping+cedar+siding
don't use iron nails
use a waterproofing product
install properly
inspect the wood
etc.

Nettle Soup
Jan 30, 2010

Oh, and Jones was there too.

Didn't we have a thread a couple of years back where a UK guy installed wooden siding, and then it all warped in the winter and he basically had to replace it?

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer
An enjoyable episode, thanks for letting us learn from your mistakes mate.


Jaded Burnout posted:

It became quickly clear that I hadn't sealed the wood well enough before the winter rains came, so it's going to have to all come down and perhaps be replaced entirely.



Electrical box being pushed out of position in a slightly worrying way that I'm going to ignore for a while. I'll probs go find the breaker though. I'll add that to my list.


NotJustANumber99
Feb 15, 2012

somehow that last av was even worse than your posting
I knew it would be jaded.

My wood is looser fitting, featheredge rather than tightly tongued and grooved. Maybe that helps?

I'm gonna oil it all but the summer has rather run out

NotJustANumber99
Feb 15, 2012

somehow that last av was even worse than your posting
lol my nephew is going to his first halloween as a builder cos his uncle keeps going on about how bad and scary they are

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


If it helps at all, the parts I refixed with 3x face screws (vs 1x hidden nails) made it through two winters without moving, but that doesn't mean leperflesh is wrong.

The fact that you're feathering them means yes they won't push on the ones below like mine did, but they'll still cup back and forth with the seasons.

I also kept putting off oiling it and we saw how that turned out. Maybe get that poo poo done when we have a dry day if you can.

Edit: also props to how fast y'all dug up that post. Always takes me ages to find anything in that thread.

Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Oct 30, 2023

NotJustANumber99
Feb 15, 2012

somehow that last av was even worse than your posting

Jaded Burnout posted:

that doesn't mean leperflesh is wrong.


No I'm not trying to suggest that lol. Just hoping against hope.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005

NotJustANumber99 posted:

lol my nephew is going to his first halloween as a builder cos his uncle keeps going on about how bad and scary they are

Will he be making GBS threads in the bushes along the way?

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VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Is hardiboard not really a thing in the UK? Everything is hardi here (concrete fibreboard).

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