NotJustANumber99 posted:

Heres the plan:



BUt I also need to try and plan fitting that into actual reality. Which I think will go something like this:

NotJustANumber99 posted:

Computer viking posted:

I'm absolutely not familiar with the symbol usage here - are the Y things [overflow] drains, or teleports to another part of the diagram, or something else?

vanity slug posted:

while you're at it you should install a proper water softener, idk how hard the water is in your area but it's the one thing i'll never regret installing in my flat

Mousus posted:

For those who don't know the Y shaped bits are symbols for tundishes. Where you have a little funnel to catch water discharged by pressure relief valves, both so you can see it happening if you're looking and so you can be 100% sure that there isn't backflow.

Leperflesh posted:

A mitered picture frame can be cut on a table saw with some practice and a good jig or miter fence that everything is clamped to. This is the frame I made on my first attempt:

Leperflesh posted:

I wouldn't want to pick on Sticky Date because his piece is actually really nice, but, the one miter joint we can see in his first pic is flawed if you look closely, and that was done with supervision on a cabinet sized table saw.

The thing is with the miter joint that you can't clean it up. With most any other joint if your first cut isn't quite right, you can get out the hand tools or some sand paper and fix it. With the miter jointed four panel box you must cut each piece precisely to length and with a 45.0 degree angle. Not 45.1. A tenth of a degree will show. Then, you also needed the wood to be perfectly flat, because if there's even a slight ripple or rise or bow in it, the cut won't be straight. You can't come in after you made your joint and sand heavily because you'll remove material at the very tip of the pointy outside bit of the cut and that will open the miter. So you're finishing your piece and then taking a cut and then you can't even take a plane to the cut surface to smooth it or you'll shorten your board. So the cut quality needs to be very very good too. Lots of teeth on that blade. No tearout. No splintering at the ends. You accounted for the kerf width, right? Being off 1/16th in length on one board will pull all four corners out of alignment and now you have two miters that are gapped on the inside and two gapped on the outside.

A mitered picture frame can be cut on a table saw with some practice and a good jig or miter fence that everything is clamped to. This is the frame I made on my first attempt:





There is a slight gap in the top right miter in the first pic, and I had to work all eight miter surfaces, which was OK in my case because I could afford to let the whole picture frame shrink a wee bit, I wasn't working to a specified size. In the second pick you can see the tips of the wood don't close completely, you're basically working down to an infinitely fine line of wood which is impossible, and the fibers of the wood kind of fuzz and fray at the end. I inserted splines to add strength because thin mitered joints made from glued end grain need some reinforcement, and also the splines help to distract from the flaws of the miters themselves.

Here's the backside, you can see the open miter on the back, bottom right, because they're not totally flush front to back. I had to pick where to show the flaw because it didn't line up perfectly and I decided obviously the back was OK to have a bigger gap than the front.


None of the lines come together right on the bottom right of the pic. They're all offset a little.

Nova69 posted:

I wonder how much it would cost 99 to hire an expert to design and implement this sort of heating system, given its complexity I can't imagine it would be cheap.

Slugworth posted:

This is why if I ever need an appendectomy, I'm doing it myself.

Failed Imagineer posted:

You can just get on to 99 and he'll do it for you in a Wickes carpark with a Dremel, in exchange for half a trunks worth of PVC pipe

vanity slug posted:

the dremel is probably a chinese knockoff from ebay

vanity slug posted:

the dremel is probably an Italian knockoff from ebay

NotJustANumber99 posted:

The Italians have cancelled the order for my little tank.

The story seems to be they didn't think anyone would ever want one so never made any. Maybe if I wait until February they can do one, maybe. But that's not going to get me in by Christmas so I've asked a company how much to make much the same thing bespoke.

So my plantroom plans are kind of up in the air again. Spent today tidying up in there and there's tonnes are stupid little jobs still to do before the heat pump is ever getting turned on.

Great.

trevorreznik posted:

Demand they compensate you for wasting your time by then taking the order, that's ridiculous.

Nova69 posted:

I wonder how much it would cost 99 to hire an expert to design and implement this sort of heating system, given its complexity I can't imagine it would be cheap.

NotJustANumber99 posted:

The Italians have cancelled the order for my little tank.

The story seems to be they didn't think anyone would ever want one so never made any. Maybe if I wait until February they can do one, maybe.

Mousus posted:

The buffer vessel arrangement looks pretty fine to me. The point of the buffer vessel is just to ensure that your heat pump doesn't end up with too many compressor starts per hour as that is what ends up wearing one out.

His Divine Shadow posted:

This kind of stuff I've found is very complex, particularly combining a heat pump with a wood boiler, it will be easier if the heat pump heats the floor and the wood boiler handles hot water and they're separate systems. As Mousus mentioned.

If you want to combine the two heating methods it requires some careful thought, or it's easy to reduce the heat pumps COP, like it doesn't want to work to high temps, 55C max is the typical figure. You also don't want too warm water making it back to the heat pump as it can be damaged by too high return temps (or so everyone says anyway).

A lot of people around here want a system that's basically a heat pump doing all the heating towards a single big buffer tank, imagine 5000 liters or more. Then they want, whenever the electricity is too expensive or it gets real cold, be able to fire up the wood boiler and let the heat pump rest. I've not yet been able to wrap myself around what the best system for that is, easiest is a manual shunt to remove the heat pump from the loop while using the wood boiler.

There are other ways but honestly I don't understand them entirely, I stopped looking deeper because I realized I am not going to get a system like that in my house so why bother. That's my half-assed understanding of this topic anyway.

Vim Fuego posted:

Yes. I think what he'll end up with is a manual shunt hooked up to electromechanical actuators that are controlled by the house computer. It's really the most elegant solution at this point.

Endjinneer posted:

I'm struggling with that justification for the buffer vessel though. Compressor starts isn't going to be a problem because the heat pump is either going to be heating a 200l tank or a big chunk of concrete through the UFH, neither of which are five minute tasks. Ours probably runs for an hour to do the hot water and I have it on a four hour limit for the UFH because I forgot to install thermostat probes in the slab, so I have this to stop it running on and room temps overshooting.

I thought the whole point of the buffer tank was to rinse the electricity supplier during negative pricing events? That can still be accomplished with an immersion in the main tank.

`Nemesis posted: