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cruft posted:I own an Ender 3 v2 and will confirm that Prusa printers look dreamy. Following up to myself from over a year ago: I can confirm that they in fact are.
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Dec 12, 2023 01:28
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What to do for curling?
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Dec 12, 2023 01:57
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kid sinister posted:What to do for curling? Glue, clean your bed, depending on material increase bed temp a bit or get an enclosure. Maybe a brim, but this is the textbook reason for glue existing
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Dec 12, 2023 02:09
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kid sinister posted:What to do for curling? Mouse ears is what I use. Is this PLA? If so do you have a smooth PEI sheet?
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Dec 12, 2023 02:09
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If you need glue for PLA on PEI something else is hosed.
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Dec 12, 2023 02:18
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Bondematt posted:Yeah it is the Sovol SV-06 or Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro. They both go on sale for around $200 and are not playing Russian roulette for fire hazards. Would you opt for the sv-06 over the Neptune? I had a prusa years ago and I just could never get the bed leveled to a satisfactory degree and just dipped out of 3d printing entirely, so I'd like to avoid that annoyance as much as possible. Basically I'll pick the one that's more likely to just work out of the box I'll probably be printing mostly pla/petg fwiw Google Butt fucked around with this message at 02:38 on Dec 12, 2023 |
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Dec 12, 2023 02:27
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w00tmonger posted:Glue, clean your bed, depending on material increase bed temp a bit or get an enclosure. Just cleaned it yesterday. I can bump up bed temp. I still got 10 degrees before I hit the PLA max on the label. What kind of glue? Bondematt posted:Mouse ears is what I use. What are mouse ears and PEI?
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Dec 12, 2023 02:32
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Google Butt posted:Would you opt for the sv-06 over the Neptune? I had a prusa years ago and I just could never get the bed leveled to a satisfactory degree and just dipped out of 3d printing entirely, so I'd like to avoid that annoyance as much as possible. Basically I'll pick the one that's more likely to just work out of the box I don't mean this to sound harsh, but if you didn't have patience for a Prusa you likely won't have patience for either of those machines.
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Dec 12, 2023 02:41
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kid sinister posted:What are mouse ears and PEI? Mouse Ears is a brim setting in Prusaslicer that puts little circles on the outside of corners to increase surface contact. So you only need to clean up the corners, where prints tend to lift, rather than having to clean up a brim from the entire first layer. PEI is what the bed surface is made of. Textured PEI is great as it works for a ton of filaments, but smooth/satin is much stickier for PLA. I believe the Sovols currently only come with textured PEI sheet. Google Butt posted:Would you opt for the sv-06 over the Neptune? I had a prusa years ago and I just could never get the bed leveled to a satisfactory degree and just dipped out of 3d printing entirely, so I'd like to avoid that annoyance as much as possible. Basically I'll pick the one that's more likely to just work out of the box They both have Automatic Bed Leveling. Was this a Prusa I3 MK1? I believe MK2 and after had ABL, which would be similar to both of these.
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Dec 12, 2023 02:44
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Bondematt posted:Mouse Ears is a brim setting in Prusaslicer that puts little circles on the outside of corners to increase surface contact. So you only need to clean up the corners, where prints tend to lift, rather than having to clean up a brim from the entire first layer. It was a 2016 mk2. I had ordered the diy kit from prusa directly, so it's possible I just did a poor job putting it together, but I was pretty confident that it was due to a warped bed. I opted for the refund rather than tinkering with it further. I was thinking that abl might have improved to the point of being a non issue on these more budget machines. Would jumping up +$70-$100 get me something that's more likely to just work out of the box?
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Dec 12, 2023 02:51
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kid sinister posted:Just cleaned it yesterday. I can bump up bed temp. I still got 10 degrees before I hit the PLA max on the label. PEI is (usually) the surface coating metal build plates. I would assume that is what yours came with. you should not need glue to stick PLA to this is the punchline. What did you clean it with? Is the other side of the metal plate bare? Smooth pei? What are you working with here? Javid fucked around with this message at 03:00 on Dec 12, 2023 |
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Dec 12, 2023 02:57
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Google Butt posted:Is there a ~$200 printer that isn't a sketchy fire risk and is worth buying? Anet A8? Oh wait. You DON'T want a fire risk, nm.
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Dec 12, 2023 03:07
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Google Butt posted:It was a 2016 mk2. I had ordered the diy kit from prusa directly, so it's possible I just did a poor job putting it together, but I was pretty confident that it was due to a warped bed. I opted for the refund rather than tinkering with it further. I was thinking that abl might have improved to the point of being a non issue on these more budget machines. Bambu A1 without AMS mini might be a good option.
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Dec 12, 2023 03:08
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Javid posted:PEI is (usually) the surface coating metal build plates. I would assume that is what yours came with. you should not need glue to stick PLA to this is the punchline. I cleaned it with warm water and dish soap. Both sides are textured.
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Dec 12, 2023 03:10
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kid sinister posted:
Standard Elmers gluestick. https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/elmers-disappearing-purple-glue-stick-3pack-white/6000016945451?skuId=10027491 It'll take care of like 90% of the problems you've been having and yeah, sometimes it's needed even on PEI.
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Dec 12, 2023 03:10
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Google Butt posted:It was a 2016 mk2. I had ordered the diy kit from prusa directly, so it's possible I just did a poor job putting it together, but I was pretty confident that it was due to a warped bed. I opted for the refund rather than tinkering with it further. I was thinking that abl might have improved to the point of being a non issue on these more budget machines. The no nonsense, don't even have to set Z-height starter printer right now is the Bambu A1 at $300. I have the P1S and the printer itself has been fantastic. Getting it with the AMS Lite brings that to $460 though. Javid posted:PEI is (usually) the surface coating metal build plates. I would assume that is what yours came with. you should not need glue to stick PLA to this is the punchline. Normally yes, but he's using PLA with textured PEI, which is not the best match. PLA wants smooth PEI. You can print PLA on textured just fine, but you need to account for the lower adhesion especially when it comes to corner lift due to warping. Sovol's plates are one sided textured PEI. Aftermarket plates can be had an amazon for ~$25 Glue is an option, but smooth PEI is better. You can also mouse ear the crap out of it and see if it is enough.
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Dec 12, 2023 03:10
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Bondematt posted:The no nonsense, don't even have to set Z-height starter printer right now is the Bambu A1 at $300. I have the P1S and the printer itself has been fantastic. Oh yeah the a1 looks nice. I don't have any interest in multi color printing so I'll give that some thought.
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Dec 12, 2023 03:15
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Mouse ears are tactical brims
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Dec 12, 2023 03:34
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Got my C1X setup and tested out this weekend and as expected it basically performed flawlessly out of the box. It doesn't have a permanent home yet so I just printed a bunch of the included files to test it out, probably using around 1kg of filament between the starter spool and 3 others I tried, and didn't encounter any major issues. I did see some seem minor exterior nibs here and there, along with some sloppiness on the infill of one model, so it wasn't 100% flawless, but all the benchies I printed, included with some non-Bambu filament, seemed perfect. It's now sitting on the floor in a gym/storage room until I've got its permanent home ready. I need to learn how to do some basic modeling myself and/or learn how to modify things other people have made, but I'm already thinking about maybe getting a second printer for XL prints like a Neptune 3 Max.
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Dec 12, 2023 03:39
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Google Butt posted:Oh yeah the a1 looks nice. I don't have any interest in multi color printing so I'll give that some thought. For whatever it's worth my AMS mostly just sits there holding 2 spools of my main filament so I never run out. When I want to print multi-material or color, I absolutely need it, but it's rare. Here's a good plate for both the SV-06 and Neptune 3 Pro, or really any printer with 235x235mm bed. https://a.co/d/cbnxsvP You could notch it to fit the locating pins on the SV-06, or just leave it as is and let it overhang the front. The usable build are doesn't go back to the pins anyway.
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Dec 12, 2023 03:40
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Bondematt posted:For whatever it's worth my AMS mostly just sits there holding 2 spools of my main filament so I never run out. When I want to print multi-material or color, I absolutely need it, but it's rare. That makes sense. I'm thinking I'm just gonna go for the mini since it seems, at least at a glance, the least fiddly out the box. Edit: also found this which is slightly larger https://www.ankermake.com/products/m5c Google Butt fucked around with this message at 04:03 on Dec 12, 2023 |
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Dec 12, 2023 03:58
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Standard Elmers gluestick. Cool. What's the clean up for that like regarding the bed? How about the part? Do you need to clean the part off afterward?
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Dec 12, 2023 04:10
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Google Butt posted:That makes sense. I'm thinking I'm just gonna go for the mini since it seems, at least at a glance, the least fiddly out the box. A bigger Bambu A1 will be announced on Dec 14th. May be worth the wait to see its pricing.
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Dec 12, 2023 04:35
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DoLittle posted:A bigger Bambu A1 will be announced on Dec 14th. May be worth the wait to see its pricing. Oh yeah it looks good https://youtube.com/shorts/RW-0oVfsxDQ?si=75g01EjGJcpLGYN-
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Dec 12, 2023 04:48
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kid sinister posted:Cool. What's the clean up for that like regarding the bed? How about the part? Do you need to clean the part off afterward? IF I was gonna resort to glue for PLA, hairspray is easier. Sections of it might peel off on the bottom of the print but it's a personal call if 3 molecules thick of clear hairspray residue is an issue. Similarly, sections might peel off so it may be necessary to respray it in between bed cleanings and or move parts around so you're printing on fresh adhesive. When that accumulates too thick, you clean the bed as you have been. However, this reminds me of what hosed up the glass so badly I had to do that - when you washed it with dish soap, what brush did you use? My fancy genuine creality glass print bed (lol) had ~alright adhesion UNTIL I washed it literally 1 time with dish soap and hot water, after which it turned into teflon forever. The best answer I got was "maybe the brush you used had lotion soap on it once which will do that" lmao. I don't know if that will also gently caress up a PEI bed, and my desire not to find out is why I started just wiping mine with iso in place instead. When this happened, a $2 can of hairspray and some trial and error solved it forever. If you were one of the guys in my local hack lab slack with this issue I would give you that glass bed and the remaining 3/4 of that giant bottle of hairspray and see if that helped
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Dec 12, 2023 04:52
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kid sinister posted:Cool. What's the clean up for that like regarding the bed? How about the part? Do you need to clean the part off afterward? Wipe the part with a damp cloth, if needed. For the bed, I just leave it. If it builds up, etc, wash it with dish soap and hot water. Comes off instantly.
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Dec 12, 2023 04:54
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Javid posted:hairspray We're going back to the 80s! Blue or pink Aqua Net? Anyway, I just used dish soap and warm water. I used a clean dish sponge to wipe the soap around and dried off with a clean dish towel. In other news, I finished!  I had to turn up the bed temp to 60, the max for that spool and I still had curling... barely. It was enough to be acceptable for my Christmas tree. You see, it's got a hole in the butt to fit on top of the tree. I had to turn the printing speed down to 70% when I noticed that the print head was moving faster than filament was getting laid down on the infill. It was skipping spots, like 1mm wide. I should've got a picture.
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Dec 12, 2023 07:03
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kid sinister posted:I had to turn the printing speed down to 70% when I noticed that the print head was moving faster than filament was getting laid down on the infill. It was skipping spots, like 1mm wide. I should've got a picture. ooh ooh I bet it looks like this Javid posted:Tangential to "how useful is infill really, anyway," with this cheap filament, I've been getting a lot of this kind of poo poo recently:
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Dec 12, 2023 08:13
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Alright, got my k1 max set up and it goes for the self inspection and then just shits itself at the second to last thing, which is input shaping. How long does this normally take cause it's been a few mins...
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Dec 12, 2023 10:20
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Bondematt posted:That's shrinkage/warping. Hourglass shape is the giveaway for it. Thanks! I have a suspicion that I may have a problem with an underperforming fan on the print head. When the printer was brand new out of the box with just a few hours of runtime it had some fan bearing noise on startup, which entirely went away eventually. Both fans appear to be spinning but I'm thinking airflow might not be what it should be. Worth looking into I think, it's not like replacement/slightly upgraded parts are expensive. I have previously cadded up, sliced and printed a calibration cube using the same slicer settings (though probably 10c lower head temp IIRC) as I use now that came out fine dimension wise, no elephant's foot or hourglass shape. I've had lots of fine looking prints too since then, even at 210c on the head, but this warping probably has been sneaking up on me gradually and a slowly failing fan might explain that. I'll look into temperatures, nozzle health and fan performance and take it from there. Ellis' print tuning guide seems like an excellent resource, thanks again.
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Dec 12, 2023 10:27
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Wow. Ok, apparently it just takes like 10 mins. Auto leveling also takes a bit. Benchy came out looking good. Gonna try a wifi based print using the app. Not really happy they want me to pay 80 bucks a year for the ad free fancy version of the app though. The printer was expensive enough. Free slicing takes a long rear end time. App isn't exactly intuitive. Still, gotta try it before I just decide to bust a fuckit and use prusaslicer or something instead.
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Dec 12, 2023 11:48
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Go get prusaslicer or orca.
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Dec 12, 2023 12:12
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the thread title reminded me I have a sous vide machine! So obviously I had to try it. For my test print, I modeled up a low effort 5/16" wrench, as I deal with a lot of that size heads/nuts. Then I printed two of it and cooked one at 70c for an hour. comparison shot:  I expected it to shrink, so I cooked it with that properly sized hex bit wired in place in the wrench end - this worked out *perfectly*, the print basically heatshrank onto it and I had to shove it out in my drill press, leaving me a perfectly sized and flattened wrenching surface that snugly fits on everything I need it to. Other than that, it got shorter along the long axis, but swelled up thicker vertically by the same amount, and took that slight warp. As a little disposable wrench handle, that's fine, but sharply limits what I can do with this new information. To see about that problem, I ran another test, this time on an already modeled grip replacement which has at its core a big fat steel bolt:  And it just did not move, aside from probably shrinking radially. I didn't measure it, it wasn't to any spec other than being comfortable for me to hold, which it is. Smashing success, will investigate further e: also, holy poo poo if a slicer showed me even one ad I would nuke it from my hard drive that very minute, much less the implications made by the phrase "free slicing" 
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Dec 12, 2023 13:10
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ilkhan posted:Go get prusaslicer or orca. Is there anything wrong with Cura? I tried Prusa first but found that Cura's UI just agreed with me more, also the supports easier to remove so I just stuck with it. Haven't tried orca. All three seem to be open source so that's real nice.
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Dec 12, 2023 13:26
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Wow. Ok, apparently it just takes like 10 mins. Auto leveling also takes a bit. seconding what other people are saying, definitely switch over to PrusaSlicer or OrcaSlicer, Creality Cloud is not worth it
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Dec 12, 2023 13:32
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Oh I'm definitely going to be using a diff slicer. I just didn't want to try and copy all the info and profiles over tonight. Didn't even really want to boot my laptop. Figured the easiest way to test out the printer was to use their app and see how it worked. Now that I'm finished with that, I'll worry about setting up a laptop slicer.
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Dec 12, 2023 13:40
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Anyone use one of these things on their setup? https://dockingdrawer.com/products/fire-guard-outlet?variant=40449767505963
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Dec 12, 2023 13:48
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Google Butt posted:Is there a ~$200 printer that isn't a sketchy fire risk and is worth buying? Sovol sv06 hovers around that and has all the things that make it good without any gimmick bullshit.
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Dec 12, 2023 13:53
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Invalido posted:Is there anything wrong with Cura? I tried Prusa first but found that Cura's UI just agreed with me more, also the supports easier to remove so I just stuck with it. Haven't tried orca. All three seem to be open source so that's real nice. No, Cura is awesome. I use PrusaSlicer but it's really down to personal taste, they're both wonderful.
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Dec 12, 2023 15:28
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kid sinister posted:I replaced my nozzle with a spare. It's looking like this was it... Stay tuned. If things make no sense, it's almost always the nozzle. Followed closely by mechincal issues. The "bubbles" you were reporting, and lack of adhesion was underextrusion. First thing to try when you're having massive underextrusion is replacing the nozzle. The next step would be replacing the plastic extruder head with an aluminum one. cruft posted:No, Cura is awesome. I use PrusaSlicer but it's really down to personal taste, they're both wonderful. I need to re-check. But for the longest time, the algorithms in cura left rougher surface finishes. I believe I can still "see" a cura print versus a Simplify3d or Slic3r based slicer. I firmly believe Cura is only popular because Ultimaker let everyone skin it with their own brand, not because it was "good". Nerobro fucked around with this message at 15:33 on Dec 12, 2023 |
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Dec 12, 2023 15:31
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