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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:I’m new to printing, but I have an a1 mini and absolutely love it. Nearly every print has gone flawlessly, and most that didn’t was down to my error. awesome! Just grabbed 2, i have tons of little print jobs that I could use them for to free up my P1Ps for the big poo poo. guys im so loving busy its nuts
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Mar 7, 2024 00:03
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NewFatMike posted:Did you reach out to them? If not, I’d include pictures because MatterHackers are a decently serious outfit. They've been around for a long time but I've always found them to be absolute jackasses. They supported the Robo3D R1, etc. Also MatterControl was the buggiest piece of poo poo slicer software ever.
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Mar 7, 2024 02:18
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Some Pinko Commie posted:Robo3D R1 They made us buy a Robo3D E3 at work, and then I spent the next 3 months trying to reverse-engineer whatever stupid HTTP-based API calls they were using to fetch downloads from the cloud server we weren't allowed to connect to. It was probably a pretty decent printer for the educational environments they claimed to be targeting. We were not an educational environment.
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Mar 7, 2024 03:45
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Son of Rodney posted:It is lol, every time I finish one I forget to weigh it. Helps when you have a 100g print to go but aren't sure how much is left I just finished off two other rolls that were almost empty as well, and they weighed 150 grams and 159 grams, so I'd probably budget at least 160 grams of spool weight if you're trying to fit in a print. (More if you have a bowden setup as there'll be filament left in the tube once the end goes past the extruder.
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Mar 7, 2024 19:03
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Oh boy, new and exciting failures!  Is there a reason the prints are zigzagging like this? The print before this had no problems, and now I get this without any settings changes.
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Mar 7, 2024 23:31
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Reminds me of stepper drivers overheating and failing to brake stepper motors properly on old Melzi control boards.
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Mar 8, 2024 01:17
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Fashionable Jorts posted:Oh boy, new and exciting failures! I forgot to tighten the screw holding down the build plate once and got something similar but not exactly the same. That's the best guess I've got.
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Mar 8, 2024 01:19
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Yeah, a *lot* of mechanical and electronic things can cause that which have nothing to do with gcode.
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Mar 8, 2024 01:26
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bird food bathtub posted:I forgot to tighten the screw holding down the build plate once and got something similar but not exactly the same. That's the best guess I've got. Oh thats not a bad line of thinking, I did recently level the bed. Possible I didn't screw it tight enough after, thanks for the heads up.
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Mar 8, 2024 01:37
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About to cross 40,000 in revenue, 2.3 months into the year. I made 95k in sales last year. Gonna blow that poo poo out bigtime it looks like
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Mar 8, 2024 21:06
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queeb posted:About to cross 40,000 in revenue, 2.3 months into the year. congrats! on track for more than double.
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Mar 8, 2024 21:13
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queeb posted:About to cross 40,000 in revenue, 2.3 months into the year. Goddam, congrats! That's super awesome.
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Mar 8, 2024 22:55
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queeb posted:About to cross 40,000 in revenue, 2.3 months into the year. Congratulations dude. Keep at it! Can I ask, how many printers are you running? tehsid fucked around with this message at 05:54 on Mar 9, 2024 |
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Mar 9, 2024 03:47
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What do say at a dinner or bar when people ask what you do for a living? In this thread we get it since we know the technical details but I imagine there's some explaining to do for a random person on the street.
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Mar 9, 2024 12:44
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Additive manufacturing 
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Mar 9, 2024 12:48
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I make stupid plastic tchatchkis and sell them to vulnerable children When they stare at me I just say 'import/export business'
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Mar 9, 2024 13:23
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I just say I run my own manufacturing business hahah, then i hit em with the yeah I make model train, dnd and Warhammer stuff and sell it to 35+ year old men with disposable income
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Mar 9, 2024 13:24
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Alright, I give up. Anyone want this Mono X for the cost of shipping before I send it to the trash? I'm due for an upgrade anyway. And what should I get? I'm looking at the m5s Pro? Deviant fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Mar 9, 2024 |
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Mar 9, 2024 18:14
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Finished my MK3.5 upgrade and nothing caught fire during the self test and calibration. Printing a random Loubie sculpture model in PETG (a wolf pup), should be done in about 4 hours but it'll be tomorrow before I get a pic because I'm doing other nerd poo poo then going to bed.
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Mar 9, 2024 22:51
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Girlfriend is looking at getting a FDM printer sometime in the next few months, and was probably gonna grab the Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro. It's currently $339 canadian, which is a fantastic price, and looking at reviews it generally seems to be pretty good (the best thing in its price range). But, I was thinking about contributing some money to the purchase, which leads me to ask if there something in the $400-600cad price range that is significantly better than the ender? We don't have any really specific demands; mostly going to be printing knicknacks and terrain for wargaming. High detail isn't required, but would be a nice bonus. Fashionable Jorts fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Mar 10, 2024 |
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Mar 10, 2024 00:02
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Deviant posted:Alright, I give up. Anyone want this Mono X for the cost of shipping before I send it to the trash? I'm due for an upgrade anyway. Get a Saturn 2 or 3. Equivalent printer ,better customer service
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Mar 10, 2024 00:08
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Fashionable Jorts posted:Girlfriend is looking at getting a PLA printer sometime in the next few months, and was probably gonna grab the Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro. It's currently $339 canadian, which is a fantastic price, and looking at reviews it generally seems to be pretty good (the best thing in its price range). Look at what's in your price range from Bambu labs
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Mar 10, 2024 00:09
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Listerine posted:Look at what's in your price range from Bambu labs Even the A1 Mini is almost twice that in CAD. I love my Bambu but it's definitely a price bracket or two up. Edit: Ahh, that's with the mini AMS. A straight-up A1 Mini is $389 CAD, which is in the ballpark.
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Mar 10, 2024 00:36
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quote is not edit
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Mar 10, 2024 00:50
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Bambu A1 Mini or Prusa Mini, either one will be good for getting started.
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Mar 10, 2024 03:43
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Multi material prints look amazing but the poop problem is something i cant get over. Theres so much waste!
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Mar 10, 2024 05:43
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Synthbuttrange posted:Multi material prints look amazing but the poop problem is something i cant get over. Theres so much waste! you can adjust the flush volumes and flush into infill
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Mar 10, 2024 06:10
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Not constantly making 10" tall multicolor prints with 2000 filament changes helps a lot with not generating so much poop. Really, the waste usually isn't nearly as bad as people make it out to be, and there are tons of ways to mitigate it. Just being a little smart about it in the first place goes an awful long way.
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Mar 10, 2024 12:54
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Some Pinko Commie posted:Bambu A1 Mini or Prusa Mini, either one will be good for getting started. 
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Mar 10, 2024 13:39
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I'd say go for a Neptune 4 Pro if that's the budget e: the thing I think we can all agree on is don't get the Ender 3
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Mar 10, 2024 15:13
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Lotta hate for em in the thread but ender 3 SE1 has done me very well having upgraded from the basic bitch E3 which I would wholeheartedly not recommended.
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Mar 10, 2024 15:16
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Yeah hold on, what’s wrong with a 3 S1?
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Mar 10, 2024 15:48
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Some Pinko Commie posted:Bambu A1 Mini or Prusa Mini, either one will be good for getting started. Those seem like good printers, but the build space is a bit small for my desire to do wargame terrain.
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Mar 10, 2024 15:53
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Synthbuttrange posted:Multi material prints look amazing but the poop problem is something i cant get over. Theres so much waste! Depending on what you’re printing, the waste can be mitigated in a bunch of ways.
There’s going to be waste. But if you’re smart about it, you can reduce most of the waste, or at the very least make an informed decision on if the model is worth the waste level.
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Mar 10, 2024 16:36
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I ended up with a Saturn 3 Ultra arriving tomorrow. Hope I don't hate it.
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Mar 10, 2024 17:00
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I ordered the Eibos Polyphemus drier somebody suggested in this thread. It finally arrived yesterday and I already dried half a dozen rolls of varying materials. It seems to be working nicely, from what I can tell. Thanks for the suggestion, whoever it was. I was about to get a "whatever" drier from Amazon. I got some vacuum bags and pump from them as well, so I hope I can now finally eliminate one variable while I continue the endless tuning of my Voron V2.4.
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Mar 10, 2024 17:10
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:Depending on what you’re printing, the waste can be mitigated in a bunch of ways. I "wasted" a whole tray of Pikachu due to color bleed black into yellow. Bambu slicer is odd and I am already using cut down waste settings, but it doesn't seem like you can flush to object or infill without also using a prime tower... Which seems to defeat the purpose. I am almost completely done with plush to infill since it tends to bleed too much, but the other options should be valid.
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Mar 10, 2024 17:38
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What I tend to do the most is not worry about the waste at all. It's a very small part of the overall process. Ultimately, a print is going to take whatever it's going to take for material, so if I really want to make a thing then I just hit the Go Button. A few grams of extra plastic isn't ever going to be what stands between me and my enjoyment of the hobby.
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Mar 10, 2024 17:51
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Many multi color prints tend to be one off monstrosities you will only ever print once. It's rare too that the 'finished' product would stay as is printed, it usually will get painted anyway For mass multicolor production, t the waste is negligible since the waste for one item is the same as a plate full, but time goes up and out the window. I have some Pokemon stls that print really nice, and they are mostly a single color, but all the time is in the pretty pretty eyes. So much so that I just print the eye all black and just paint it in. Speaking of, how come nobody makes pretty Google eyes? Instead of black dot on white make it white on black with a blue add on or something. I would stick them all over
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Mar 10, 2024 18:12
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Roundboy posted:I "wasted" a whole tray of Pikachu due to color bleed black into yellow. Bambu slicer is odd and I am already using cut down waste settings, but it doesn't seem like you can flush to object or infill without also using a prime tower... Which seems to defeat the purpose. Flush to infill won’t cause bleed. Depending on the filament color or if the filament is slightly transparent, you might see the infill (think painting light yellow over dark red walls). Getting black bleed into yellow means your flushing volume values were off or you didn’t re-calculate them. If you add new colors from whatever defaults pop up when you open your slicer, you need to open flushing volumes and hit “re-calculate” to get them proper. Black > yellow is one of the worst color changes you can do. If I were to print a tray with that change, I would either just eat the default 1x flushing volume or I would run a flushing calibration. This here is a good one, but there are others. https://makerworld.com/en/models/62782#profileId-69555 This one also includes some custom g-code to if you want to use it to require even less purge by utilizing retraction tricks, but I’ve never tested it so I didn’t mention this option in my OP. With regard to the prime tower, it’s not called a flush tower for a reason. The prime tower is not really used for your flush calculations. The prime tower primes the pressure in the nozzle so it can push the filament at the correct flow rate (and etc). This pressure can also be achieved during a normal poop flush. But when you’re flushing to infill, supports, or a flush object, after the color change the nozzle needs to be primed, or your infill layers or flush object layers will have gaps or be incorrect, causing the print to fail. Since you’re skipping 98% of the poop-based flush by using flush to x, you need the prime tower to prime the nozzle. You can reduce the waste on the prime tower when using this method by reducing the width and volume of it in the “others” section.
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Mar 10, 2024 18:37
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