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New to this whole thing so I'll keep it simple, what angle countersink bit for typical wood screws in the US? Also, haven't seen a plane pop up on any local estate sales, would I be crazy to get one of these to try things out? https://m.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-9-75-in-Bench-Plane/4069033 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Buck-Bros-9-in-Bench-Plane-120C4/100351888
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Jan 24, 2019 14:48
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:A lot of people collect Stanley planes and it really drives up the prices on eBay etc. I’ve had good luck with old used Sargent planes and a lot of times you can get them much cheaper than Stanley. Yeah that's what I was thinking, but I'll key an eye out for different brands. Looking to spend south of $50 for a first plane so I guess the general consensus is keep your eyes peeled for an older one and skip the newer manufacture stuff?
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Jan 24, 2019 19:07
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After looking around for a first plane, eyeballing this guy. Look ok to you guys? https://www.ebay.com/itm/SARGENT-HERCULES-NO-1409-SMOOTH-PLANE-W-HERCULES-GOLDEN-CUTTER-/202505757785
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Jan 27, 2019 16:31
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My first project ever building sawhorses was going swimmingly....... until my drill battery died with the pilot bit all the way in which promptly snapped trying to wiggle out. Yay. Imaging having a few spare 1/8 bits is proooobably a good idea.
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Jan 28, 2019 02:41
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Need to, although wouldn't have helped me in this case. It stopped dead all the way in and didn't even have enough juice to get it to twist while pulling out. Snapped off from trying to wiggle it out (only a 1/8 bit but still). 20/20 hindsight would have been to unlock the bit from the drill, but wasn't expecting it to not take even a little wiggle in some 2x4s, barely anything and it just snapped. Oh well be back in action tomorrow.
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Jan 28, 2019 03:12
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Speaking of beginner planes, handled the cheap Kobalt one at Lowe's and noticed the grip is pretty cramped for me, would that be the case with most No 4s? Should I look for a 4 1/2 instead? *Edit* Just looked at prices, yikes. Maybe not. Bob Mundon fucked around with this message at 14:17 on Jan 28, 2019 |
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Jan 28, 2019 14:11
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Passed up a $10 Stanley block plane at an estate sale yesterday, was looking for a No 4 but in retrospect on an idiocy scale 1-10 is that an 11? Also just read something about card scrapers, how has their existence eluded me my entire life? It seems impossible something that looks like a piece of sheet metal does what it can do, does anyone here use one?
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Feb 2, 2019 19:26
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Without knowing the first place to start is this a decent choice? Also has a thicker model for a few bucks more and there are multi packs that are different shapes too. Seems too much like black magic that I could probably just cut up a cheap hand saw. DFM Tool Works Blue Cabinet Scraper MADE IN USA - QTY 1 EA - 0.032" x 2.5" x 5" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079BH3W7B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YyKvCbWGXKFA7
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Feb 3, 2019 02:49
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Leperflesh posted:That's fine. Did you have a link? Thinking a set of a couple would be handy in case things got too toasty with the first one. Also reading even something like the back of a chisel side bevel will work as a burnisher, but don't know enough to know if that's right or wrong. Do you need to sharpen it out of the box or just file it flat and then burnish the burrs? Bob Mundon fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Feb 3, 2019 |
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Feb 3, 2019 04:16
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Well, lost out on a few auctions for Stanley's and Miller's falls planes, so ended up settling in this Sargent. Hopefully it's not a bad first plane. https://www.ebay.com/itm/SARGENT-HE..._app-cvip-panel
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Feb 4, 2019 03:28
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Huxley posted:I think my absolute favorite thing about woodworking is being able to solve very specific problems quickly and cheaply. My wife says on Friday, "I really wish we had a bookcase to keep the girls' library books separate. I want it to go between their rooms, but I don't want it to stick out past the door frame where they'll run into it." Trying to picture how you got that together and into the wall. Mind if you post a quick rundown? Could use something similar at our place.
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Feb 4, 2019 18:54
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Gotta remember that one, definitely would go well in the kids room. Needing a coffee table, any recommendations on a type of wood? First real project.
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Feb 5, 2019 16:54
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Cool, thanks for the recommendations. There does seem to be a pretty decent amount of cedar here, would that be a poor choice?
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Feb 6, 2019 01:03
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Plane came in, so beautiful. That plus card scraper is crazy. Only issue I'm having is how do you start the stroke so you get the first part of the wood? On most of my strokes unless I'm starting heel up it stops dead into the wood. *Edit* think I got it figured out. Bob Mundon fucked around with this message at 05:50 on Feb 7, 2019 |
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Feb 7, 2019 03:34
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Going to make a laminated workbench top soon. Is it better to buy 2x3s or 2x12s and rip them into 2x3s? Also for gluing up, any difference between white and yellow glue?
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Feb 10, 2019 02:53
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Blistex posted:Whatever is cheaper. Words to live by.
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Feb 10, 2019 13:53
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Thanks for all the input, seems like 2x12 is the way to go. Kinda figured since selection of 2x3s is pretty limited here. Hopefully they'll be able to rip them at the store, but if not great excuse to make a circular saw guide.
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Feb 11, 2019 01:28
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For the coffee table initially I was thinking of just laminating glued up face joints but thinking that may be too heavy even with pine. Is a strait edge joint probably too weak with glue only? Should I use dowels or (preferably not) pocket holes for extra support, or am I overthinking this?
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Feb 15, 2019 17:38
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Nothing but glue is necessary for a good edge joint off the jointer. You can get an acceptable glue joint off the table saw too sometimes. A good glue joint with most any wood glue is stronger than the wood itself. Biscuits can help with alignment and do add some strength but aren’t necessary-dowels are tricker to align and in my experience cause more problems than they solve. Good to know, wasn't sure if a 1.5" edge was going to be enough surface area for the glue. Doing a 2.5" face joint for my workbench but that would be a tank of a coffee table. Don't have a jointer, but will be hand planing everything so hopefully able to get it close enough.
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Feb 15, 2019 17:58
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Scoping out lumber for that coffee table and it definitely seems like going with a wide board and cutting it down is the way to go. Seeing cuts that are right across the middle of the tree with plenty of rift and quarter sawn areas, but is there something to know about the center portion? This would be for yellow pine.
Bob Mundon fucked around with this message at 04:48 on Feb 19, 2019 |
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Feb 19, 2019 04:16
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:In the southern yellow pines the heartwood can be considerably harder and darker/redder than the sapwood (and take stain very badly), but most of them take 30-40 years to start developing heartwood. Most yellow pine lumber now is from plantations considerably younger than that so I wouldn’t worry about heartwood. You don’t want the pith-the very first growth ring-in a board because it is very unstable and wood will warp/crack from the pith. If you look at the endgrain and see a circle, cut that part out. You’ll wind up with two narrow but perfectly quarter sawn boards. In pine, the straight grain of quarter sawn stuff is very easy to match so you can glue up a nice consistent table top. Thanks, exactly what I was looking for.
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Feb 19, 2019 13:37
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Got about $20 in Amazon points to spend (if you don't have an Amazon rewards card get one), Kreg JR pocket hole kit yea or nea? Not going assemble entire things with it but imagine it's one of those things that are good to have around. Would that be good for attaching a table top or would one of those figure 8 brackets be better? Bob Mundon fucked around with this message at 17:44 on Feb 19, 2019 |
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Feb 19, 2019 16:20
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Actually was looking at the mini, not the Jr. Lowe's has the bit 2 pack with both 3 and 6 inches for $3.50, that shouldn't be too bad a deal. Maybe go with the Milescraft version and Kreg bits, still cheaper than just the Kreg jig. *Edit* enough quibbling, Milescraft one on order. Bob Mundon fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Feb 20, 2019 |
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Feb 19, 2019 20:43
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Replacement workmate finally came in, SO much easier for planing being able to clamp down on the wood. I seem to have gone about the saw thing in reverse, have a circular saw but no hand saw. What's a good recommendation for a handsaw if you could only have one? I'll be using the circular for big work, but need something for smaller cuts. Two sided Japanese saws are appealing just because it's both a rip and crosscut saw, but that's just me speculating.
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Feb 24, 2019 02:35
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What do you guys use as a marking knife? Wishing I could just find single bevel utility knife blades but that doesn't appear to be a thing.
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Feb 25, 2019 01:00
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I know Harbor Freight isn't exactly a go to around here, but is there any reason to avoid something as simple as a rasp from them? https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-rasp-set-33865.html At half the price of the 4 way rasps I'm seeing seems like it might be worth a risk.
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Feb 27, 2019 00:33
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Javid posted:It's $4. Something twice that much is $8. How badly do you really need to cheap out on tools? Answer: as much as possible. Probably not that badly though, point taken. Thanks everyone for slapping sense into me.
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Feb 27, 2019 02:19
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Picked up a couple pine 2x10s for the coffee table, both look pretty similar and are basically cut right through half the heart. I've heard that part can cup or warp, but the grain was wavy and looked too great to pass up. Am I asking for trouble? Also had pretty narrow growth rings, this sucker is gonna be heeeeeavy. *Edit* and any recommendations on a good 101 walkthrough on wood inishing? Seems like a lot of varied information out there, so if anyone can point me in the right direction much appreciated. Bob Mundon fucked around with this message at 05:55 on Mar 3, 2019 |
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Mar 3, 2019 02:01
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Doing some rip cuts with a circular saw and a strait edge clamped to the wood. That is no fun. I smell a table or bandsaw in my future. Bob Mundon fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Mar 4, 2019 |
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Mar 4, 2019 01:06
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:What do you mean it isn't fun? Like you aren't getting good cuts or you don't feel comfortable doing it? No it worked great, was really happy about that. The blade that came with the saw was binding bad but once I put in another no issues. Just referring the time it took me to reclamp everything for a new cut I could have just about finished with a table or bandsaw. Everyone mentions here that cheap table saws ate best avoided, what about cheaper bandsaws? Bob Mundon fucked around with this message at 13:26 on Mar 4, 2019 |
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Mar 4, 2019 13:23
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cakesmith handyman posted:Get the biggest you can and a new blade. Would a sub $200 or even $300 bandsaw leave me with nothing but heartbreak and despair? That is assuming i don't need to cut larger than it's capacity.
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Mar 4, 2019 15:06
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JEEVES420 posted:They can rip a board but not ideal and a 100-300 one is going to be poo poo at doing it. I would use a circular saw and straight edge over a bandsaw every day. Exactly what I needed to know. Only bandsaws (and table saws for that matter) I have experience with were the ones back in shop class. Something like this horrible if I'm fully expecting not to have perfectly clean cuts? SKIL 3410-02 10-Inch Table Saw with Folding Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HIWQZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_R9uFCbN87NG0P
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Mar 4, 2019 17:17
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Sharpening my plane today I noticed I was leaving some pretty bad toolmarks after, there's a few Knicks I just can't hone out. Is it possible for there to be some grit on my stone or probably just me sharpening badly? I think I'll have polished it out but then it just pops back up once it hits the wood. About ready just to stone a whole new edge on it, driving me nuts. *Edit* yeah needed a new edge like whoa. Note to self, always do this with a new plane. Sure does take a while with a 400 grit stone though. Waiting for the new bevel to get to the edge I feel like red leader. Allllllllmost there. Bob Mundon fucked around with this message at 21:47 on Mar 9, 2019 |
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Mar 9, 2019 20:10
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Bob Mundon posted:Sharpening my plane today I noticed I was leaving some pretty bad toolmarks after, there's a few Knicks I just can't hone out. Is it possible for there to be some grit on my stone or probably just me sharpening badly? I think I'll have polished it out but then it just pops back up once it hits the wood. So after getting a nice edge and taking out all the nicks I'm back at it......and then it gets more. Is that just pine knots really taking it to my blade or what?
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Mar 10, 2019 00:31
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Granite Octopus posted:They can do. That leading edge is very thin and quite fragile. Are you slamming into the knots with any great force? I would re-sharpen, then try again but with a very low depth of cut, and run the plane at an angle so you can sorta slice the knots instead of coming head-on. Resharpening seemed to do the trick, will just have to be careful around those knots. Using a Sargent #4 and sharpening to 30 degrees, but I hadn't established the bevel until after it copied the first time.
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Mar 10, 2019 23:52
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Where does Aldi sell tools? We have one locally but it's only a regular grocery store.
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Mar 11, 2019 01:41
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Trying to decide on how to finish that pine coffee table, any recommendations that preferably won't make it look like plastic? I'll be staining it darker so figuring I'll need to condition it regardless, would shellac be a good choice as a base coat before the stain instead of just a straight wood conditioner? Any guidance on top coat? I like the idea of a water based varnish, but with 3 little kids I imagine that is asking for trouble. *Edit* It does have a few knots if that makes a difference on the shellac/conditioner decision. Bob Mundon fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Mar 13, 2019 |
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Mar 12, 2019 23:58
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swampface posted:If you've got a test piece, you'd be surprised how nice poly can look if you go over it with some #0000 steel wool and then a coat of paste wax. Good to know, noted. Any thoughts on the pre stain conditioner or shellac question? Cannon_Fodder posted:3 little kids and a softwood tabletop? The one I had in college looked like the moon by the time we were done with it. First project ever beyond sawhorses so wanting to keep it cheap in case I mess up and have to convert it into firewood. I did pick out the tightest ring pattern I could on the availabile pine but we'll see how it holds up. Still very much in the "this is why we can't have nice things" phase of life.
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Mar 13, 2019 17:56
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Yeah, pine will absolutely get dented and beat up, but there's a far cry between cosmetic damage and functional damage so I fully expect your table will hold up well for a long time. Was joking, but useful information none the less. Attempted to make a mortise and tenon on some scrap. That.......did not go well but hey at least learning. Also, need a marking gauge stat. *Edit* Ugh, and I drove past a Woodcraft yesterday, closest one to me is 90 miles. Stupid $9 shipping. https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-3-piece-marking-set-woodriver Bob Mundon fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Mar 14, 2019 |
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Mar 14, 2019 13:06
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Looks like the woodworking and tool threads got their titles backwards.
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Mar 20, 2019 01:53
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