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nm posted:^^^^^^^^^^^^^ This. My dad lives at 8,000' in Colorado and drives a Prius with whatever the best studless snow tires are at the time. Any 2WD with good snows kicks the poo poo out of every AWD. quote:Come to California, they're everywhere. Phoenix is really good also, with the bonus that it was almost certainly driven only 4,000 miles a year by a 74 year old.
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Jan 6, 2016 02:48
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Getting a 4x4 and looking for any thoughts or advice or things I haven't thought of. I had a 2008 FJ Cruiser with the off road package that I liked but when I moved out of state and had a crazy commute I had to trade it in for something with better mileage. Now my car with better mileage is paid off, so I want a 4x4 again. 1. It won't get used regularly for commuting so I don't give a poo poo about gas mileage. 2. It'll mostly get used for old mining type roads in Nevada on the weekends. 80% of that could be done in a 2WD F-150 or a Subaru Forester or something, but for the other 20% I want at least a rear locker and I'll probably be putting a smallish lift on it. 3. If I got something that could do the Rubicon well, I'd do it, but after renting a hardcore Jeep in Moab and wheeling the hell out of it there, I've realized that rather than buying and modding a Wrangler myself, it's probably better to buy something more comfortable/useful/practical and when I want to do something super hardcore just head back to Moab. 4. I do one or two long friends or family road trips a year where it'd be nice to have something really large and comfortable. I'm also 6'6" so in terms of someone sitting behind me that kinda changes the definition of large and comfortable a bit. I thought something like a 4Runner would be good enough but after sitting in one and looking at how much room was behind me with the seat all the way back, it's doesn't really seem any roomier than my Accord. Which makes sense because I think they're only about 6" longer than my Accord. 5. Regardless of #4 it needs to be comfortable and relatively reliable and have all the modern amenities. If I was just going to bang around with it locally I'd buy a 60s or 70s Bronco or FJ-40 or something, but... 6. I don't tow anything but I'm also not saying I'd never tow anything. I basically keep landing on crew cab full size pickup but here's all the stuff I've considered: 1. Tacoma. Too small. 2. 4Runner. It's acceptable but not great on #4. Even ignoring #4 though, it also is a bit lackluster in the head and legroom for me. I can certainly live with it but part of me wants something I can really sprawl out in. 3. Dodge Power Wagon. This probably makes the most sense out of any of them (front and rear lockers, swaybar disco, winch) but I just don't like em as much as Fords. Still in the running though. 4. Used FJ. Not great on #4 either and may not be that easy to find what I'd want nearby (a 2012+ trail teams with low miles). 5. F-250. I like the front axle. 6'6" bed might be nice to do some offroad car camping. Won't fit in my garage, but I think that's the case with many people's F-250s and even though it will rankle I guess I can park it in the driveway and wait to see how long it takes for my aftermarket wheels and tires to get stolen. 6. F-150. Will fit in my garage due to shorter bed. An F-150 with a lift would probably be just as or more useful to me than a Raptor (Even if I had a Raptor I doubt I'd be doing any high speed desert running). But it isn't a Raptor, which also has resale value implications, though I'm planning on keeping whatever I get a very long time. 7. Raptor. Not likely to be available at a reasonable price in the time frame I want to buy (next 3-4 months). If it were available at MSRP I think I would 100% get one. 8. Used Raptor. I had mostly written these off because for the price differential I'd just shell out the extra dough for a new one, but the release of the new one seems to be having a fair impact on used ones (one at a local used lot dropped from 47 grand to 39,999), so they may be in the running. 9. Used G-Wagen. From looking at specs these seem awesome in the legroom/headroom department but terrible in the shoulder room (58" in the 4runner vs 54" in the Mercedes, for reference an F-150 is 67") and I thought the 4Runner wasn't exactly awesome in the shoulder room department to begin with (my Accord has slightly more). That plus 10 year old ones with 50k miles costing 50 grand probably puts them out of the running. 10. Land Cruiser. Both an older solid axle one (91-97) and a new or newish one. Old one I'm not sure would be the best for comfort/size (cars have gotten bigger plus seats are usually much more adjustable these days which can make a big difference for me). Also not sure about reliability. I know they're tanks but I'd be looking at one with 150-200k miles. I like the new ones but they're not significantly roomier than a 4runner and cost a metric fuckton. 11. Chevy Colorado, especially ZR2 if available. Lockers on both ends which is awesome. Not a huge Chebby fan but I'm willing to give them a shot. Front room is better than 4Runner but obviously worse than F-150. Rear room (in the crew cab) is the same for headroom but 3" more legroom (again, compared to 4Runner). Any input/ideas/stuff I haven't thought of? I think at the moment I'm thinking new F-150 or F-250 and I'll probably rapidly put a lift and 35ish" tires on it. And I'll just resign myself to dying a little bit inside every time I see a new Raptor.
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Jan 31, 2017 02:45
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:I'm selling my 1998 Ford Ranger, this is my first attempt at a private sale. Maybe tell us the mileage/transmission/wear/etc. There's like a 1000% value difference between a 2wd regular cab 250k mile 1998 ranger and a 4wd supercab 50k mile ranger. If it's a legitimate offer and not just bait to get you in the door, then I'd probably take it. Asking 3000-4500 is not selling for 3000-4500 and for me dealing with private sale hassles for $400-$800 would not at all be worth it. e: and I know it's through USAA and a "certificate" but until you actually have a check that clears or cash in your hand... All they have to do is say "oh, it wasn't in as good a condition as it was represented or as it looked in the photos" and they're off scott free I would guess. bird with big dick fucked around with this message at 03:01 on Jan 31, 2017 |
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Jan 31, 2017 02:58
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khysanth posted:Turns out the price on the Outback was too good to be true. I def could see signs of an unreported crash on the vehicle body, and the entire steering column would shake whenever you applied even moderate pressure on the brakes (like getting off the freeway). Sounds like it needs new (or resurfaced) rotors. $300-$500? Ask them to knock it off the price. I'm also curious to know how you identified it was in an unreported crash given than you've never, in your life, bought a car before, and therefore presumably do not have a lot of expertise in evaluating them. quote:To top it off, they changed position and refused to let me take it to an independent nearby mechanic for a PPI unless we had agreed to purchase the vehicle and set a price. This isn't necessarily unreasonable depending on precisely what they mean by that. Like a reasonable thing would be "We agree to purchase vehicle X today at price Y subject to our mechanic's inspection." If the mechanic says your poo poo is all hosed up then you don't purchase vehicle X at price Y. Most car dealers do not want a car to leave their lot when they have zero commitment to purchase it. That's not unreasonable. What would be unreasonable would be if they said "You can have your mechanic look at it but you own it anyway" or if you said "I refuse to commit to a purchase or price but want to have a mechanic look at it anyway."
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Jan 31, 2017 03:38
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I'm only 90 second in and I don't know what this really is but it's already pretty funny and was that an instrumental Blackstreet parody?
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Jan 31, 2017 03:41
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powderific posted:It's not a dick move to test drive a bunch of things. You're in the market for a car and not just joyriding or something so definitely don't feel bad about it. Be ready to fend off the salespeople though. Even if you are just joyriding it's not really something to feel bad about. Car salesmen spend a significant portion of their time standing around smoking cigarettes or masturbating in the bathroom and as enjoyable as those things are it's nice to take a break from them occasionally and go for a nice drive.
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Feb 11, 2017 16:41
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Number_6 posted:The best deal ever (at least for my amusement) was the goon who leased a 2007 Altima for like $40k. Assuming that story was real. Either way it was a blast to read. It was definitely real, and it was hilarious to read. Similar thing happened to a girl I was dating when I was 19 or 20. She went into a dealership and was looking at a 1 year old base (I'm not even sure if it had air conditioning) 2WD regular cab ranger. You could buy these things for like 10 or 11 grand brand new at the time. She stupidly told them she could afford $300/month payment, so they made goddamn sure that her payment ended up at $317 or something, despite the fact that financing 11 grand for 60 months at 8% would have only added up to $223. They just kept adding poo poo to the deal until the payment came out where they wanted it. $2000 extended warranty. $595 undercoating. $800 bedliner. And it still wasn't enough so they added $1300 for literally nothing. There was just a line on the form that had $1300 on it with absolutely nothing next to it explaining what it was. Luckily this dealership flew a little too close to the sun and (of course) the banks and told them to gently caress off when they tried to get them to finance a 19 year old for 15,000 dollars on a truck that was probably worth about 8,000. So they tried to get her to come back in and sign up again on a lower amount which she refused after I explained to her why she was a retard.
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Feb 11, 2017 17:04
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Motronic posted:If you can't put down 30% and pay in 36 months you can't afford the car. After you put that 30% down you should have a few grand accessible as a maintenance fund "just in case" This seems like it would result in something ridiculous, like you have to make at least 100k a year to afford a new Accord.
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Feb 11, 2017 17:07
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H110Hawk posted:You can buy an older car for a lot less money. A $5000 0-accident civic will drive you to work just as well as a $15,000 civic with a $286 payment. It won't have blue teeth or a backup camera, but you'll live. Somehow. The type of Civic you can get for 5 grand is, despite how reliable Hondas are, also the type of Civic that could have the tranny take a poo poo on you within a year. And even barring major mechanical disaster, maintenance, repairs, and fuel costs all go up. Things like that not only need to be factored into the cost of ownership, they also can cause issues because it's more difficult to budget for a random $2000 repair than a $286 payment. You don't need to have 3 grand in a car repair emergency fund if you're driving a Civic with a bumper to bumper warranty. You also generally don't have to worry about what you're going to do if your car ends up in the shop for days at a time. And as has been mentioned, there's more to a car purchase than pure financials. For nearly everyone driving a brand new or nearly new Civic has some (non-monetary) value over driving a 10-15 year old one.
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Feb 11, 2017 17:57
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Motronic posted:If you need to finance for 60 months you are buying more car than you can afford and your finances are too tight. Yes if you literally don't have the extra $170 a month anywhere in your budget which is the difference between 15 grand at 36 vs 60 months, you probably shouldn't be getting a 60 month loan. But in that case you probably shouldn't be getting a loan at all, and in reality you may not even be capable of getting a loan. Railing against 60 months loans and insisting on 30% down is absurd.
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Feb 13, 2017 01:45
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If I have 3 grand down and want to keep it at or below 300 a month, that limits me to about a 9,000 dollar car with the 30%/36 month requirement. If I don't put that limitation on it It means a 19,000 dollar car. That 19,000 dollar car may very well have a lower total cost of ownership over five years than the 9,000 dollar car due to being newer and therefore more reliable, requiring less maintenance, getting better gas mileage, getting a better interest rate, etc. On top of that it's likely to be safer, more comfortable, more fun to drive, etc. Being cheap doesn't always result in saving money.
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Feb 13, 2017 01:51
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Thermopyle posted:I mean, there's reasons to buy the 19 grand car, but it's pretty hard to make a purely financial argument for it. Which is why I didn't. The point is that there's a lot more that goes into total cost of ownership than just the purchase price of the car. It's not just the 10 grand difference in the purchase price of the car. And almost all the other things that go into TCO are going to be cheaper on the newer car. Yes, a 1 year old 19k dollar car probably isn't going to have a TCO that's cheaper than a 7 year old 9k dollar car, but they're going to be a lot closer than the ~100% difference in purchase price. bird with big dick fucked around with this message at 02:31 on Feb 14, 2017 |
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Feb 14, 2017 02:20
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prom candy posted:Are any of the newer tech features from the past few years must-have? I would love to have a backup camera in my CR-V but it has a tire sticking off the back of it. I'd never want to go back to not having a backup camera. One thing that the "lol just turn your head idiot" people don't seem to understand is that the camera is mounted 10' behind you and has a huge field of view. When you're in a parking lot with cars on either side of you, it can frequently see things that are literally impossible to see from the drivers seat. Its not a huge deal but I also really like Smart Key/Push button start/whatever the gently caress they call it. I know it's minor but I get slightly annoyed whenever I drive my moms car because I put my hand on the door handle and don't understand why it hasn't unlocked. Putting an actual key? Into an actual steering column? Ain't nobody got time for that.
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Feb 14, 2017 02:29
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Throatwarbler posted:I bought a car without a backup camera that you also can't see poo poo out the back of. I even bought an aftermarket rear view camera but was too lazy to install it. Then I backed into my neighbors truck in my parkade because I can't see poo poo out the back of the car. See, here's one of those TCO costs that don't show up when you're just comparing purchase price to purchase price.
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Feb 14, 2017 02:45
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CopperHound posted:I just went for a couple test rides... I started with a 2014 Prius C with low miles. It is a perfectly sensible car that provoked no feeling of excitement or hate driving it. I'm not sure I can justify spending ~14k on something that makes sense but I can't even get a little excited about. I was hoping the combination of the gas and electric motor would give it a pleasantly surprising get up and go off the line. An Accord hybrid might have more of the feel you were expecting. The 2014-2016 have 166 hp electric motors while the 2017 has 181 hp I think. While Priuses are like 50-70 hp or something. Storage sucks in the Accord though so you might not even consider it an option. No fold down seats and the batteries eat into trunk space. But passenger room is pretty big. It's a large, comfortable, smooth car IMO.
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Sep 1, 2017 23:18
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The King of Swag posted:So gently caress you Carson City Toyota; you're the type of dealer that's the reason I have spent years telling people that not every dealer is crooked, but you do need to do your research and be willing to back away from any deal if things go sideways. Lol nearly every dealer in northern Nevada is nothing but unrepentant shitbags. The only one I’ve had decent luck with is Reno Subaru. Jones West has a $2000 markup over MSRP on everything while advertising that they won’t be beat on price. Reno Toyota puts nitrogen in the tires and some clear bra on the door edges and tries to charge 600 dollars for it. Reno Honda has the scam where they buy you new tires whenever yours wear out but only if you do 3x the manufacturers recommended maintenance at 300% markup.
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Apr 24, 2018 19:54
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JUST MAKING CHILI posted:Hmm, looks like everything has gone up in the last 12 months. Ya think?
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Jul 18, 2018 06:29
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OldSenileGuy posted:One last thing - has anyone here used the Costco Auto Program? It purports to simplify a lot of the negotiation and haggling process by giving you a good price right off the bat, but I'm curious how much savings are actually to be had. Or if I'd be able to really get a lower price by getting a 2018 model at this time of the year. IMO the Costco system is a good deal if you're bad at haggling and a bad deal if you're good at haggling. If you're getting a new 2018 in the near future you should be able to do better due to the 2019s hitting lots. Costco is ~ invoice - rebates but I'd be trying to get invoice - rebates - holdback right now. If not even cheaper. That won't work everywhere though, some dealers are just greedy fuckers. I was dealing on a leftover 2016 (in Feb 2017) F-150 and they wouldn't go a single penny under invoice, so I went to a different city and bought a 2017 for 1,000 under invoice. My wife and I recently bought her Accord using Costco. If it had been a "regular" Accord I think we could have gotten a better deal by haggling but it was a 2.0 turbo with the manual transmission and since there aren't a whole lot of those around they didn't really want to deal on it. Until we played the Costco card they weren't budging off MSRP.
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Oct 10, 2018 13:18
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Accord hybrids are fine  And I'd imagine the Civics are too.The IMA Civics were pieces of crap anyway because the IMA system was stupid, but I don't think Honda has had an issue with hybrid batteries for 8+ years. bird with big dick fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Oct 11, 2018 |
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Oct 11, 2018 01:11
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Every car that's on a dealer lot is a "test drive car" plus they usually get 5-10 miles put on them before they even leave the factory due to rolling off the line and down to the staging area and to the railyard and poo poo. So you're not gonna get a car with 0.1 miles on it and even if you order one from the factory it's still gonna have 5+. From my experience most people test driving cars don't beat the poo poo out of them (especially since theres usually a salesman with them). I nearly bought a new Shelby GT500 out of state that had 450 miles on it because the idiot dealership let someone take it home over the weekend (supposedly) and then they didn't buy it. Something like that is the only time I'd really care. Right before I gave them the deposit I asked about the miles and then noped right out of that deal.
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Oct 11, 2018 01:27
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nm posted:There are cars with publish 10-15k specs. This is only achievable with synthetic oil. Modern dino might be good for 5k. Subaru had a bunch of EJ25 turbo issues when they recommended 7.5k on dino in the early 00s and revised to 3.5k (though dino is basically always a bad idea on small turbo engines). My 2014 Accord Hybrid owners manual says Dino oil is fine and to follow the maintenance messages on the in car display which is ~10,000 miles.
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Oct 30, 2019 23:46
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Motronic posted:Hybrids don't "count" the same for oil change mileage specs as the ICE doesn't really have the same usage profile. 7,500-10,000 is common for regular Accords also. The point is saying "modern dino is at best good for 5k" is directly contradicting at least some auto manufacturers. bird with big dick fucked around with this message at 15:39 on Nov 8, 2019 |
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Nov 8, 2019 15:34
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They use 0w20 not 5w20. The main argument I see is whether you want to consider a synthetic blend to be a conventional or a synthetic or neither. But the owners manual does NOT specifically require a synthetic plus specifically states "You may ALSO use synthetic motor oil if it blah blah blah."
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Nov 8, 2019 22:44
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MickeyFinn posted:Is there some trick to getting a dealer to respond to emails? Going off of my recent experience, it seems like some version of "how much money do you want for this car?" is a recipe for ghosting. Is it a local dealer? I've bought two new cars from dealers long distance and my tricks are: 1. Flat out tell them you're gonna buy car x but there aren't any locally or your local dealer is a shitbag so you're buying elsewhere but you're obviously shopping price because you can get it from one of a hundred different dealers. 2. Throw them a (potential) bone by saying that you've already got financing arranged through bank x but you're open to seeing if they can give you a better rate. I bought my 2017 F-150 from 7 hours away, never saw it in person, never talked to a human, had it shipped up on a trailer, and got it for 6 grand cheaper than the local morons.
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Nov 20, 2019 19:30
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flightless greeb posted:Idk how to phrase this exactly but I have found a lot of modern cars aren't good if you have a tall torso (???) I'm "only" 5'10" but I prefer a pretty upright driving position and vehicles as common as the 2019 Toyota Tacoma have my eyeline almost even with the top of the windshield if I don't slouch. Toyota Tacoma’s are ergonomic oddities in that they’re a pickup with a very short cab and they make up for it by having you practically sit on the floor with little or no seat height adjustment. Modern cars are largely great compared to older cars because the vast majority of them have height adjustable seats, even if they’re not power.
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Dec 13, 2019 02:17
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From what I’ve seen if you’re going to get a Tacoma you might as well get a new one because they barely discount the used ones.
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Jan 23, 2021 15:08
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arbybaconator posted:Figures I discover the Car Buying thread AFTER ordering my vehicle. You’ll probably like it. I had a 2017 Limited that I loved until it was murdered at a stoplight by a bad person. Still haven’t decided what to replace it with.
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Feb 13, 2021 18:41
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skipdogg posted:Probably for the best. Enjoy the new truck. Not really much to discuss as there’s almost never a decent discount on a limited trim, and some of the regulars here would probably have a fit at the idea of someone dropping over 70k on a truck. When I bought mine the discount available on the limited was the same as most other trims. The only trim you couldn’t get a deal on was the Raptor which of course will basically always be that way and they had an extra rebate on XLTs at the time but lariat/platinum/king ranch/limited were all basically the same in terms of discount. It appears to be the same right now (though all rebates are poo poo right now due to time of year and limited production and the fact that the 150 is a new model).
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Feb 13, 2021 18:48
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arbybaconator posted:I did pretty well on discount, I think. I got an amazing quote from a dealer in Iowa, and shopped it around to 20+ dealers in Texas. One of my local dealers ended up matching it. 3% off Invoice, (9.3% off MSRP) before rebates and TTL. Almost every other dealer laughed at me. One local dealer acted incredibly offended that I even asked them to match. That's about the same deal I got in 2017 so I'd say that's a great deal for right now considering that 2021s are new and in limited supply. Mostly shopping back and forth between the huge Ford dealerships in/around Las Vegas that have like 350 fuckin F-150s on the lot. Nearly ended up with the Diamond White or whatever they call it but then one of them came through on a price match with my preferred color, Blue Jeans. Before I bought the 2017 I was dealing (in February) on a leftover 2016 Lariat and my lovely rear end local (Reno) dealership wouldn't even go below invoice on a leftover. Some dealers are just not even worth talking to. Which dealer in Iowa? I actually was a salesman at Deery Brother's Ford in Iowa back in the day.
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Feb 13, 2021 21:57
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arbybaconator posted:Grainger Ford. Their guy is really active on the f150gen14 and new bronco forums. They do a TON of internet orders. I was ready to fly out there and drive home if I didn’t find a dealer to match. That's good to know. Could fly and drive and do a visit to the friends and relatives still in Iowa all at once.
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Feb 15, 2021 23:07
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KillHour posted:What if you own a house and the mortgage is less than your car payments? this was me for five years
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Feb 19, 2021 15:04
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sneakyfrog posted:i just remember yanking myself out of ditches with a winch in the army so while i am not as familiar with it as i used to be i wouldnt mind the option in a pinch is all. Do it 
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Feb 24, 2021 16:44
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Motronic posted:Gonna do the normal: why do you need an SUV or full sized sedan for a commute? Also, crash safety doesn't work the way you think it does. How do you think he thinks crash safety works?
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Feb 26, 2021 16:28
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Get the best Ford Raptor you can afford.
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Mar 4, 2021 02:45
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The 1500 pounds of Americans counts towards the vehicle payload not its tow capacity.
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Mar 4, 2021 19:04
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I like my steering wheel tilted all the way up like a bus driver. Power adjustable steering wheels are good.
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Apr 1, 2021 01:33
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Yeah, it's rare but it happens. I've seen identically equipped cars right next to each other on a car lot with ~$500 different prices because something changed in their pricing mid year.
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May 6, 2021 16:57
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May 10, 2021 03:50
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Corollas are fine cars but by the time you install the lift kit, roof cargo box, and rumble seat, you're going to be way over budget.
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May 10, 2021 21:35
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meanolmrcloud posted:new baby. I’m 64 lmao good on you buddy
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May 11, 2021 17:43
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