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Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

AnonSpore posted:

Just got a $50 Williams Sonoma gift card and I was just thinking I wanted a boning knife, is there a good choice there for something that falls at/below the 50 dollar (after gift card) point? Or rather, one I should definitely avoid?

They sell Victorinox fibrox boning knives there. Get one of those.

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Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

Those things gently caress up your knives.

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

Shun makes nice stuff. A little pricy, but the quality is good.

One thing that's going to stick out to people here is: that's a lot of money to spend on a 6" knife. Most people use a chef's knife and a paring knife. 8" is better for a main knife, but a lot of people eventually go up to a 10" chef's knife.

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

Just sharpen the edge. I don't speak Japanese to know exactly what that is, but it's a carbon steel gyuto of some sort. To "fix" the tip you could see if your coarsest sharpening stone would let you remove that.

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

mindphlux posted:

disagree fwiw

my breakdown on knife usage is 70% 6.5in santoku, 10% cleaver, 10% 10in chef knife/gyoto, 10% everything else

That's weird. I feel like anything shorter than 10" is cramped now. My breakdown is probably 80% 10" gyuto, 15% 8" chef's knife (it's stainless so I use it for certain stuff), 5% paring knife (mostly cutting fruit in half).

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

quote:

Is there any pro tip for how to judge the angle your holding thr knife at?

Take a sharpie and color the beveled edge of the knife. Pass it over the stone. If you got all the sharpie off you're at the correct angle.

http://www.spyderco.com/forumII/viewtopic.php?t=52105

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

Shuns are a little overpriced but I’ve had one for over a decade and I still use it daily.

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

Animal-Mother posted:

“At the base of my right forefinger is an inch-and-a-half diagonal callus, yellowish-brown in color, where the heels of all the knives I've ever owned have rested, the skin softened by constant immersion in water. It distinguishes me immediately as a cook, as someone who's been on the job a long time. You can feel it when you shake my hand, just as I feel it on others of my profession. It's a secret sign, a sort of Masonic handshake without the silliness.”
― Anthony Bourdain, Kitchen Confidential: Adventures in the Culinary Underbelly

I didn’t think I had one until I read that quote and felt my left index finger.

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

They were put there by a man.

Chemmy fucked around with this message at 05:52 on Jul 12, 2019

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

Any links to nice sets of Laguoile knives? I don’t want the plastic handled ones, and the up charge for any kind of wood is hundreds of dollars which seems absurd.

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

obi_ant posted:

Any suggestions on a good wooden cutting board? America's Test Kitchen seems to suggest this here. But wondering if there was something else out there you goons like.

I've always heard that teak is really rough on knives because of its high silica content. Googling seems to suggest people are divided. I'd go end grain maple.

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

Carbon steel patina crew

https://imgur.com/a/wSdX4cE

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

This inspired me to get me Edge Pro Apex back out. I didn’t do a great job the first few times I used it but I figured it out now and my knives are really sharp again.

Feels good man.

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

I like my Moritaka, I posted a pic of the patina like ten days ago in here.

Fake edit: https://imgur.com/a/wSdX4cE

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

poverty goat posted:

I've officially sharpened off my fingerprints and am ready to begin my new career in knife crimes

E:

Look at that edge though. Worth it.

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

I have a global paring knife and it sucks, don’t buy one. The tip broke off my Shun Elite which previously was wonderful. I’d sharpen it out but it’s like 1/3rd of the blade. :rip:

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

I have a 240mm Moritaka and I like it a lot. I think a 180mm (7”) is too short to bother buying a real expensive one.

After I switched from 8” to 240mm (9.5”) I wouldn’t go back. All my 8” knives feel stubby.

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

Victorinox 14” slicer.

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

I’ll be honest I dunno about going carbon steel. I’m thinking about another 240+mm stainless gyuto.

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

Mine is sharp and has a fine patina but I just kind of obsess over it, like I keep a clean towel on my board to wipe the blade after slicing.

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

I don’t understand. The carbon steel in the japanese knives people are talking about here is generally harder than stainless. That’s the whole point.

The Moritaka I’m using is 65 HRC. Wild stainless like M390 is 62 HRC.

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

What are some nice drawer based knife storage options? I have a 14” Victorinox slicer and a 240mm gyuto as my biggest knives.

Price isn’t really important.

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

You don’t need a western knife to cook western food.

Japanese knives are pretty much across the board better. I own a Wusthof Classic that sits unused. It’s heavy, it’s fairly soft steel and comes with bad edge geometry and it has a thick bolster for no reason that makes sharpening weird.

If you’d like a western handle plenty of Japanese knives have them. The Tojiro DP gets recommended a lot and has a western handle. It’s lighter, it’ll feel sharper, it’s easier to sharpen, it’ll stay sharp longer.

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

Going to something like the Tojiro is probably no adjustment at all. Single bevel knives are cool but that Tojiro just outperforms a battle ax like the Wusthof. An inexperienced user won’t know there’s any difference besides “it cuts better”.

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

There's no knife that's going to stay perfectly sharp with just a ceramic rod. It'd be nice, we'd have all bought them.

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

I have a 13 year old Shun which is pretty thin and I’ve been hammering garlic with it since I got it. It’s fine.

I also use my bench scraper which is thinner and softer than a knife and it’s also not bent.

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

Also as we’ve been over with the tortilla chip knife chip, kitchen knives don’t really bend. Hardening steel comes at the expense of ductility. Kitchen knives chip and crack, they don’t bend.

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

Right, but that snapped it didn’t bend. That’s not a ductile failure.

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

Lawnie works as a metallurgist iirc.

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

56 HRC is typical for German kitchen knives and is unlikely to be the reason for poor performance.

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

Looks pretty for sure. I'm not an expert on anything but I bet if you learn how to sharpen well you'll be very happy.

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

I would guess that the people at that store would be happy to have you browse and give you advice on knives.

You’d be able to hold them. I doubt any of them are garbage that should be avoided, what you like and what feels good to you is way more important than what steel it’s made of.

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

Their handles are extremely not comfortable.

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

I have a Shun Elite I got dirt cheap when the economy collapsed in 2008 and it’s been going strong since then.

Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

guppy posted:

I watched some more videos, and according to this official DMT video, they seem to want you to compensate for the extra height of the stone by adding notches to incorporate the approximate height of the table. The whole point of this is to be sure you've got the appropriate angle, so that's frustrating.

What he’s saying in the video is the notches are set up assuming you’re using those guided stones. If you’re using something super thick like that stone in the video you should add notches equal to the thickness of the stone.

You don’t have to be exact. Just get close.

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Chemmy
Feb 4, 2001

guppy posted:

The Ken Onion seems super nice, and fast, but I didn't go with it because the nature of a belt grinder is to produce a convex (not flat) grind, and I wasn't sure if that would be bad.

Convex grinds are supposed to be better than flat I thought. There’s more material backing up the cutting edge.

I use an Apex Edgepro so my knives are flat.

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