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Subtly misleading people into the future!
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Oct 18, 2020 06:00
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Also there now exist low-e windows which don't tint the color of the light much at all. Or at least the stickers on the windows I installed claimed to be low-e.
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Oct 23, 2020 20:29
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Rad Valtar posted:I have a question and I’m not really sure if there is a good thread to ask it in. The plumber is coming tomorrow and has to cut into my bedroom wall to repair pipes for my shower. I have to get someone to replace the drywall after but he can’t come for a few days after the work. I’m wondering what the best solution is for covering up the giant hole that will be in the wall until the drywall guy can come and fix it? I was thinking of either covering it with plastic or cardboard. Any other better solutions? Ask them to cut it as a big square or whatever. Buy a box of 10'x100' 3mil plastic and cut a strip, then masking tape it to the wall. Use scissors not a knife.
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Oct 26, 2020 03:57
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tangy yet delightful posted:Unless you already have it those rolls are expensive. Get masking or painters tape and tape a trash bag over the hole instead. Or this. I have found having a box of that stuff on hand has been really useful. 
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Oct 26, 2020 04:43
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FogHelmut posted:I think there used to be an appliance thread, but I don't know where it is now. For some reason the Amazon link is freezing up on my phone, but if it's the strainer I think they all have them. If you are literally washing your dishes with soap and water the place to put them is the cabinet not the dishwasher. Otherwise whatever lipids and other crud are always going to get caught up in the strainer and requiring periodic cleaning. It should be easy to do, is there more disassembly than what amounts to a quarter turn in the basin?
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Oct 28, 2020 16:52
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), I have to disassemble this and clean it out every 3-6 months because it clogs up.
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FogHelmut posted:
 Buy a Bosch. And stop prewashing your dishes, just get the solids off. Even then don't overthink it.
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Oct 28, 2020 19:32
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Bad Munki posted:Bosch even explicitly warns you about washing your dishes before loading them because if you do, the sensor won't see the crud. Yup. I basically just scrape them into the trash to get like, the meat, veggies, and such off. The rest goes in as-is. While washing baby bottles in there I suggest pre-rinsing all tomato sauce off though, unless you like orange tinted baby bottles. You're going to be amazed at how much water, time, and energy you are wasting pre-washing your dishes.
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Oct 28, 2020 20:08
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nwin posted:So I tried that, with as little as one shim, and it kicked the center out too much. The pet of the door where the lock meets the door jamb was hitting. It’s like I need to pull that part in. Do you own a chisel? Wood plane?
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Oct 30, 2020 17:28
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14-30R to 6-20P is in theory fine but you should change out the breaker to be 20A so you have the correct overcurrent protection for your device. You can even find pigtails that will do it for you save for the overcurrent protection, this one is way overpriced but you get the idea. Just make sure it's not "L"14-30R. (And make sure I have R and P correct for your application. You need and R for your devices P.) https://www.amazon.com/AC-WORKS-S14...866&s=hi&sr=1-5 Mod edit: emphasis Somebody fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Nov 12, 2020 |
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Oct 30, 2020 18:59
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Phanatic posted:One of my kitchen cabinet hinges exploded, for want of a better word. So I need to replace it. Home Despot doesn't have this variety of hinge, so I need to order it, but I don't know the name of it. You can see that there's a semicircular recess cut into the cabinet frame, a metal sleeve is secured in that recess by screws through the ears, and the the hinge in turn gets secured to that sleeve with another screw. Taking the whole thing to Lowes and looking through their hardware section is the best bet. Or ship yourself 10 and return the rest.
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Nov 1, 2020 00:11
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Finishing nails can bend easily and are a little finicky to drive straight; I recommend practicing on some scrap wood before you approach your trim piece again. If you have a very narrow drillbit (narrower than the width of the nail), you can also drive a pilot hole in the trim. And the added benefit of when you snap the tiny little bit clean off that's one fewer nail you have to drive. gently caress finishing nails forever, especially the double cheese grade ones ikea gives you to attach their cardboard backings to their nightstands.
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Nov 1, 2020 19:03
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:I have a buddy who tore some paint/drywall paper off their rental wall using command strips. It doesn't look like the core has been damaged. How do you repair something like this? A couple layers of spackle smoothed over it? Drywall patch kits with the screen are unnecessary since they didn't put an actual hole in the wall right? I would spackle that and not look back. Small tub of color change spackle (like a cup of it), some fine grit sandpaper, and a drywall knife. Spread some on there, feather it out, and sand a little once dry if you feel frisky. Ask your super for some paint. While you get the hang of it don't be afraid to scrape it off. The go patch bigger holes as well since you own the stuff. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Nov 2, 2020 |
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Nov 2, 2020 21:29
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Centrist Committee posted:General question about DIY lifts and pulleys. I want to rig up some random projects to lift small loads (< 100 lbs) using mechanical advantage, not electricity. Maybe someday I will build my own linear actuators but for now I want to go even lower tech. My question is what to do for safety in the event that a line breaks or I let just let go like a dumbass. I don’t want a locking mechanism, but instead an trying to think up simple, mechanical options for countering or reducing the force of gravity such that if I released a pulley line, the load would slowly settle down vs. free falling. Are there any technical terms I should search for? I was thinking maybe a shock absorber but that doesn’t seem right. Maybe I just don’t understand physics! Also rigging is its own special hell when it comes to math. I failed trig twice so good luck with that. But to slow a fall you need a counterweight which just made your calculations WAY harder. Arresting (stopping, making less catastrophically shocking) a fall is as describe previously. Your best bet is to simply follow the other advice of "never stand under your load" (or in the path of it when your rope breaks.) Get straps to do the holding, ropes to do the lifting. Can you post a picture of what you're trying to do and where? (Please be a car.)
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Nov 9, 2020 18:54
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Jerk McJerkface posted:So circling back, I picked up a 5gal bucket of Killz2, and I guess it'll be terrible? It will be great. It will be hard to mix and pour is about it.
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Nov 9, 2020 20:59
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Skinnymansbeerbelly posted:A week ago, I noticed a bulge in the paint in the wall on the other side of (adjacent to) my master shower. My best guess is that it has been there for about a month, because it is a spot I rarely look at. I have avoided doing anything about it because I am in quarantine until next week. The drywall is hosed already. If you have to go in anyways and if it's out of the way replace it with an access panel. Cut yourself a nice square, poke at it to see how soggy it is and make sure to give yourself an inch or two margin in all directions from the edge of the soggyness. I would buy some mold killing spray. Expect to be cutting out way more than you expect by the bubble.
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Nov 13, 2020 19:42
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OSU_Matthew posted:I just had some new concrete poured, but I guess there was a miscommunication and now there’s a bowl shaped depression around my curb water shutoff. Now every time it rains, water fills the bowl where it can’t drain. Rotary hammer drill a drain in it?  Ask the people who poured it how it's supposed to drain? They can probably have a dude come drill that sucker out faster than you can kludge together some oddball cover.
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Nov 13, 2020 23:09
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Skinnymansbeerbelly posted:Follow up, with gore:  OP Delivers. In the interim you can square off those holes and give them some clearance to work, and clean out the dust. This should help you patch it later and your plumber will be happy to find it nicely exposed already. Stick a fan on it to dry it out.
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Nov 14, 2020 00:50
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Anne Whateley posted:Turns out my parents' unfinished basement has a good scattering of dried cat poo poo. The floor is concrete with chipping paint. Down is easy. Gravity guarantees success. Up on the other hand... Buy some 2x6 or 2x8 16'ers to use as running boards. Remember to bring something to use as a flag when it hangs out the back of your vehicle. Why not just use a mop? It's concrete.
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Nov 14, 2020 07:50
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Anne Whateley posted:It's so dried and ground into the rough concrete. A mop will take forever and spread it around. The goal is to really get rid of the cat poo poo and get the floor sanitized. You should not stand below your load trying to go up stairs. That is a short path to it or you slipping, sliding down the stairs (remember our friend gravity is always there to help), and being pinned under a 90lb machine with some number of broken bones. You could make it less dangerous by attaching ratchet straps/comealong to the top of it and going step by step click by click but eh don't. I don't care how big and strong you are you're one misplaced step from being a puddle at the bottom. Either way renting it is the nuclear option but bleach will sanitize, scrubbers will loosen, and a hepa vac (they make shop vac hepa filters, I have one) will suck up the microfine cat poo poo you reasonably don't want to inhale or have laying around.
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Nov 14, 2020 17:52
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nwin posted:Yeah I guess you guys are right. It was his decision to rent and be located in another state. I guess I just try and put myself in the owner’s shoes and I’d hope that the renter would try and paint a decent picture of what’s going on and maybe make a few phone calls since I wouldn’t be in a position to come over and check things out myself. You're being nice, that's certainly nice, but you should find out if your landlord even cares that the backyard is flooding. It's good will to be eyes and ears for the people they send to look at it, and help as a bullshit detector, occasional picture taker, and verbal/email updater but in the end it's a job you're paying someone else to do via your rent. They might tell you to piss off and wait for it to dry out, which then has its own decision tree associated with it.
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Nov 14, 2020 21:32
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Jenkl posted:Does a pressure treated bottom plate on concrete in a basement need to have its end treated if cut? The whole board is impregnated with the treatment with pressure. No.
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Nov 15, 2020 03:52
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Gimpalimpa posted:Hello, Can you draw and label a top down plan? Either in some sketchup/draw.io kinda thing or literally print graph paper and just do 1" = 1' scale. Label anything that cuts into the walls - windows doors etc. Dimensions all around. Sketch into it where want the loft. Do the same thing as an elevation showing the loft. It doesn't seem super hard to do. Also consider using a pre-made bunk bed made to put a desk under.
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Nov 16, 2020 06:00
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DrBouvenstein posted:Wait...you people live places where you can leave loose leaves on the curb and they get picked up? drat...we have to bag them, here. They give us up to two big wheeled bins for yard waste here, bags forbidden. You can put more or less any organic yard waste you want in them. Weekly pickup, included in our ~$365/year sewer/sweeping/trash bill. If the garbage trucks ram can crush it you can put it in there. We're also dense suburbs so not nearly the miles as you country folk.
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Nov 16, 2020 17:51
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GWBBQ posted:
Neat! Thanks.
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Nov 17, 2020 00:09
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Nevets posted:I bought 18 of these https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sterilite-12-Gal-Hinged-Lid-Industrial-Tote-Black-Set-of-6/44785751 We have standardized on a plastic bin size here as well. It's great. We had storage built in the garage to the spec of fitting X of those bins per shelf per door. It means a heck of a lot less storage tetris because you're just getting all 4x4 blocks (effectively). That + a brother label maker (make sure you get one with a wall wart) or masking tape and a sharpie if you have legible handwriting makes our garage have the ability to be organized. It's not, but the thought is there and a couple of the doors now have useful labels on them. Christmas is coming so we will just pull out the bins labeled "christmas" and we're done. We know it all goes back, and we can easily track decoration creep. Ours are the "handle-lock" style where the lid is one solid piece and the handles snap over the edge to hold it shut.
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Nov 18, 2020 18:28
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DaveSauce posted:Yeah pro-tip: If you find a storage tote you like, stock up. We had a 19 gallon we liked, but only bought as needed. Then when we needed more, we found out it's not made anymore. So now we have mismatched totes. Ah yes, this x100. We literally bought enough to fill every section of our whole garage with them plus like 10%. When they're on sale just buy 50 once and be done with it forever.
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Nov 18, 2020 19:22
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Make sure you hose off the whole floor thoroughly before moving to a "new" chemical. Don't want to accidentally kill yourself. Easy to do, just take a shower or whatever, but you really don't want even a little bit of chlorine gas.
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Nov 18, 2020 20:12
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wesleywillis posted:Don't know where else to ask this..... Utility lines will kill you and not notice, voltage be damned. 120v will leave a corpse worthy of an open casket if you are thrown or its just a heart stopper. If you're cooked your going to be scraped into a bag. Now how close to reality this is based on the exact circumstances of the tree fall is anyone's guess but the penalty for error is just a detail in your funeral. If the tree is touching the lines or has damaged them call the utility and tell them that. You will have a very fast response. If these are fused by the park and the owner can clearly lock out the power (put an actual lock on it) and verify its off (with a meter) then you can start loving with the tree. Make the owner go first.
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Nov 21, 2020 21:03
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wesleywillis posted:Word, thanks homies. The lines are well inside the park, and feed each site off a separate meter (Each site has its own meter is what I mean and we are billed electricity by the park) so likely they belong to the park. My brother is talking to the owner, or will be talking to him and we will see what happens from there. Ah nice. Should be easy then. Follow the lines and kill the feeder. If they aren't unfused utility lines you should be able to easily find a kill switch for them. Make sure no one is running a generator. Post a picture of the carnage.
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Nov 21, 2020 21:53
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Bioshuffle posted:Tell me about using indoor extension cords outdoors for christmas lights. Is that safe? wesleywillis posted:Use outdoor cords outside. They're made to be more weather, UV, and "knick" resistant. While it 99% doesn't matter as the GFCI solves most issues, it will probably degrade much faster if it's not outdoor rated. Check amazonbasics for cheap options.
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Nov 23, 2020 01:52
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Bioshuffle posted:My only point of confusion was that outdoor extension cords have a third hole for the grounding prong which does not get covered, as the christmas lights only have 2 prongs. Is it safe to just plug it in and leave an empty hole in the extension cord ? Yes. There is an outdoor cable forgotten unplugged from the device but plugged into the gfci outlet w/ in use cover half buried in shredded mulch that gets sprinklered and rained on in my front yard right now. Hasn't popped in the week it's been there.  (Don't do this.)
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Nov 23, 2020 02:47
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Related, I've never done any tiling, but it seems fairly straightforward. Is this a doable project for someone that is fairly handy? Absolutely. Buy a tile saw, spacers, the correct mastic thing with the teeth on the side, and more tile than you think you need. Lowes let's you return tile. Make sure the lot codes match. Plan and lay it out on some cardboard or whatever first, use spacers and everything. Grouting is the hardest part, watch some how to videos where they show you how to recover from too much grout on the tile. It's easy to fix but you want to get it before it sets. Set timers on your phone for sponging it down.
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Nov 23, 2020 04:13
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Ants! We get on and off little black ants which clear up easily with borax baits. This is now the second of a much larger ant that I haven't seen before the other night, and now this is ant #2 like this. Is this just some new and exciting harmless ant or is it time to have the annual termite inspection early? They're like twice as large in every dimension, smushed little normal ant and 3"? tile for scale. (I tried to move it alive... oops.) 
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Nov 23, 2020 05:38
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That's what I figured. Thanks. I imagine that means there is a little leak somewhere under this tub. loving pandemic. (Both bathrooms were supposed to be redone by now, contracts signed.) This seems like "have someone crawl under the house and look, but it can definitely wait until after Thanksgiving" level of worry?
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Nov 23, 2020 06:43
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Final Blog Entry posted:I just replaced some ceiling fans with new ones from Hunter. The LED bulbs they came with just aren't bright enough for the rooms. I tried some of our preferred LEDs from the rest of the house, GE Reveal LED in 100w replacement but they buzz like a motherfucker in those fixtures. I had some GE Reveal Halogens around which are 100w replacement/ 72w usage and they work fine and light is good, but the fan fixture specifically says LED/CFL 14w max. Is there any safety or other concern with using the higher draw bulbs in these fixtures? Besides the power bill, of course. If it's not rated you risk fire, plain and simple. It's probably the same fixture but with a California compliant sticker, but why risk it? Try different bulbs, or RMA the fan - I seem to recall others in this thread having an issue with the lights in Hunter fans.
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Nov 23, 2020 23:42
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tater_salad posted:You can buy a lot of different color temps so find an led with the one she likes? And for $lol they make programmable ones. ($lol to me, totally normal to others.)
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Nov 24, 2020 03:58
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Jenkl posted:I just patched some drywall in a bathroom. Is there any reason, e.g. moisture issues, that would necessitate priming it? I'd rather not have to paint/prime as we're prepping a larger scale job in there for later. This is why I own a pack of $10 for 10 or whatever lovely brushes. Use it to put on 2 coats of primer and just throw it away. 0 clean up.
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Nov 26, 2020 04:36
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Final Blog Entry posted:
Recirculator? Natural gas hookup? Evil spirits?
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Nov 29, 2020 00:23
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FogHelmut posted:We had Home Depot deliver a whole bunch of paver bricks. We used an online tool to estimate the amount for the pattern and square footage, and then I added 10% for waste and broken bricks. I would be shocked if they would come and pick up anything for return that wasn't their fault. You ordered 500 bricks and you got 500ish bricks. Lowes is crazy in that they will take individual tiles for return, no clue if home depot does the same with bricks. You can probably get rid of them pretty back pain efficiently by advertising them on facebook marketplace or similar for 50%+ off "you come get it" and be ready to cut a deal for anyone who wants the whole lot. How many bricks are we talking here?
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Nov 29, 2020 02:32
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floWenoL posted:Hunh, that does sound pretty easy. I might have to undo that, though, if the GF decides to sell (since the extension would butt into the car bay), and that would be somewhat difficult to do cleanly, right? If you own the place why would you undo it when you sell? Your washer and dryer are going to be in place for showings and any viewer would probably not notice or appreciate that it works. You personally should be keeping your trap shut, not that there is anything to be ashamed of here.
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Nov 29, 2020 18:42
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