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Anyone have any idea what's going on with this doorknob? It's brand new, so it's not malfunctioning, but I've never seen a knob act this way. Is it a setting? Is it the kind of knob and I need to replace it? What is the purpose of a knob that does this? https://i.imgur.com/O5tGXpN.mp4
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Oct 29, 2020 20:34
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There's a slight 'click' when it reaches it's full depth, then only comes back out halfway (like you see). Then you have to 'click' it back into the normal position. I've pulled it apart and can't see anything weird happening inside, but idk. I guess I'll just return it and get a new one.
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Oct 29, 2020 20:44
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Jenkl posted:Anyone have any neat suggestions on what to do what two dozen 10"-16" 2x4 pieces? Wondering if there are any cool little projects I might tackle with all my scraps. My wife and I are doing something like this with some of my off-cuts: 
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Nov 5, 2020 15:04
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So I built a backyard rink. I don't think there's any sub-forums here that deal with that specifically, so I'm hoping someone here has some experience with it. This is my first time building one. My issue is there appears to be a crack running the entire width of the ice, but it's not breached the surface yet. Any idea if this is normal, or catastrophic, or somewhere in between?   We skated on it for a few hours today, weather was like 38-39F. I just resurfaced it now that the temp dipped to 32.
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Jan 8, 2021 02:01
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Anyone here ever used a bullet heater for their garage? My garage is an attached walkout, so it's sealed pretty tight (not leaky at all.) There's a door to the basement, a door to the outside, and the garage door itself. I got a bullet heater and fired it up the other day (left the door to the outside cracked open), but I'm having some serious reservations about going this route. It smelled (though I've heard these heaters all smell the first x hours, burning off oil or whatever), but I'm not familiar with "this is a bad smell" vs. "this is a dangerous smell". I did get a CO detector and mounted it near the floor and it stayed at 0ppm the entire time. I'm about 90% towards just calling in an electrician to have some 220 run and installing an electric heater (need more outlets in the garage anyway). e: the heater I got is a propane heater. This one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KRFVDP4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Jan 13, 2021 20:48
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Goddamn, my first ever "quote is not edit".
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Jan 13, 2021 20:50
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Elviscat posted:Another problem you're going to run into with a propane heater in a well sealed garage is moisture, since those ones that are rated to run indoors still produce tons of water vapor as a product of combustion, if you run that thing for long you'll turn your garage into a sauna. The garage isn't heated at all. Hence the need for a heater.  (It's pseudo insulated, as it's a walk-in garage under the house, so the sides are concrete surrounded by earth. The back wall to the basement is insulated, as is the ceiling.) And I don't know why, but I've always seen CO detectors near the floor and just assumed that's where they go. TIL that's wrong. That's useful info! Time to return the bullet heater.
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Jan 14, 2021 15:16
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Yeah, I had a plumber in yesterday to handle some unrelated stuff, and asked him about putting in a NG heater. The issue of venting is still there, though. There's just no good place to vent a heater from the garage. (His suggestion of coring a 5" hold in the foundation is a non-starter.) He did have an interesting idea of installing a Hydronic heater running pex from the boiler, but ultimately I think it makes more sense to just install Electrical since I want more outlets and some 220's in there anyway.
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Jan 14, 2021 17:28
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Meow Meow Meow posted:What are you trying to do in your garage? Like what's the purpose of heating it? My house has an under house garage similar to yours I found the key to keeping it comfortable was to never open the garage door in the winter (plus making sure it's well sealed, I put in new weatherstrip etc.) Then I just used a a small radiant electrical heater and would point it at myself for woodworking. Usually after 30 minutes or so I would be hot enough to turn the heater off and be fine for quite a while. Woodworking and home gym, yeah. It's a 2 car garage, probably ~500 sq ft. I tried the regular space heater thing awhile ago and the cold just laughed at me. NBD, I have an electrician coming today. Super excited to be getting some real outlets in there, too. So tired of running everything off of the one overhead plug.
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Jan 18, 2021 15:17
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H110Hawk posted:If your main panel isn't in the garage have them put in a small sub panel with room for a car charger. The cost shouldn't go up much - the big labor component is fishing wire to your main. 100A or bust. I have a (100A) subpanel in the master bedroom above the garage, so I'm hopeful it won't be too hard to run from there. There's plenty of room in that panel. The main panel (that I upgraded to 200A when I bought the house 3y ago) is on the other end of the house. Running a circuit from there would be... not easy.
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Jan 18, 2021 17:59
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Motronic posted:If your definition of "not too hard" includes trenching drywall and then patching no....it won't be hard. But there's almost definitely gonna be some drywall that needs cutting. Pre-fab housing. There are a number of... idiosyncrasies of owning this. They didn't use drywall, it's all paneling (when I completely reno'd the finished basement, I ripped out all the paneling and drop ceiling and redid everything with mold-reistant drywall.) The subpanel is in its own little column, so I'm hoping he'll be able to drill straight down from the panel into the garage and run circuits from there. Guess I'll find out in a few hours!
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Jan 18, 2021 18:07
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I don't think he'll even need to go through the sill plate is what I'm saying. Check it out: Bump out for panel.  Bottom of bump out. This should probably be in the electrical thread.
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Jan 18, 2021 18:29
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Elviscat posted:Holy poo poo is your house a fire hazard, with all wood paneling like that. Will do. (Ask me about the literal fire hazard I found opening the walls in the basement, where mice had chewed some wiring and scorched some wood/insulation.) Those loose wires run to the heat tape the PO installed (had installed? Idk, probably a DIY). The rest of the panel is original work, and fine I think? I can take a picture later when wife is finished with work for the day.
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Jan 18, 2021 18:44
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So, looking again for the first time in 3 years, I think my memory of this box is not how I pictured it. I definitely do remember the inspection report saying it was fine, other than the wires coming out the top. Maybe I can dig that out again. Electrician should be here shortly, we'll see what he has to say. eta: Electrician isn't worried about panel, can put a trench below this panel to funnel wiring into conduit in garage. Panel doesn't have enough space to run all the outlets I wanted, but enough to still make it worth doing (heater circuit, one 220, one 110) SouthShoreSamurai fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Jan 18, 2021 |
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Jan 18, 2021 20:13
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AFewBricksShy posted:I need a new pair of work boots. No steel toe necessary, and preferably 4.5-6" ish height. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3522228 has your answers. Beware the rabbit hole, those people really like boots.
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Feb 12, 2021 15:36
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More home renovation fun. I took down some more walls and some more cabinets. This is a modular home, and the original design calls for some decorative "beams" where the seams of the house come together. As seen here.  I think they look pretty terrible, but have lived with them. The area with the current renovation had part of the cabinetry that covered the gap, and now it's exposed.  I'm looking for ideas/inspiration on covering this gap so we can paint over it. The area is 1.5" wide, and runs approx 15 feet. (Additionally if anyone has worked with this kind of ceiling before, I'd love to know how to fix damage to it. My best guess is it's some kind of gypsum, which is apparently very hard to find/replace.)
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Feb 17, 2021 16:11
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FogHelmut posted:I'm building one of those cedar playhouses from Costco for my kid this weekend. I want to get 10 years out of it if possible, so I'm concerned about direct ground contact. My wife thinks I'm overthinking this (I am, its what I do). How long can I expect it to be safe without additional effort? I was thinking of just laying a line of pavers around the base to keep it off the dirt/grass, or even a course of 3/4 gravel a few inches wide. I was also considering painting the bottom with copper green. There was one of these in my yard when I bought the house. I think it's going on about year 7 now, and it's completely falling apart. Not from the ground up, surprisingly. Just in general, these are just so cheaply made that they disintegrate. I think mine was from Lowes, but same thing I'm sure. I'm ripping it out this spring and building a completely over-engineered fortress.
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Mar 19, 2021 21:04
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korora posted:Are you sure you need more than 25? Not sure what you’re trying to block out but for podcasts + power tools I have the 3M worktunes (NRR 24) and they make things pretty quiet. See also this article which has quite clear explanations of NRR in general: https://noisyworld.org/noise-reduction-rating-usage/ Seconding these, they're awesome. Table saw, chop saw, chainsaw, lawnmower, nail guns, compressor vent, etc, etc... They're super comfortable and if your use-case is anything like what I listed, they work perfectly. They have excellent battery life too.
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May 3, 2021 16:39
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We bought a new stackable washer/dryer. Had the plumbers come in to move the hookups over and then hook up the w/d (and install a flood preventer in the hookup.) 4 days later we found water coming up through the floorboards when we stepped on a particular area. Panicked, we ran around to try and find the leak and found this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=seC3EO00KZo I've already called my insurance company who is sending over an adjustor today, I'm trying to get in touch with the plumbing company. My question is how bad is this likely to be, and what should we expect from the plumbing company? The insurance co has started the claim process already, but said to have a remediator come in instantly triggers the $1k deductible. We may be able to get that back from the plumber at a later time, but... ugh. We have some PTST from previous flooding, so I don't know that I have a great handle on how bad this is likely to be. The flooring is vinyl life-proof that I just put down like 3 months ago, so I really don't want to have to tear it up and put it down again.
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Jun 7, 2021 13:13
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PainterofCrap posted:That appears to be a basement floor with vinyl plank over concrete. There is water under the flooring. You can leave it but it'll take months to dry and mold may become an issue (not guaranteed, but possible). If the plank is not glued, you could call the mitigation company and ask them if they can use a vacuum mat system to suck the water up without lifting the floor. They lay mats of various sizes on the floor and hook up hoses to a vacuum unit & it runs for a few days until the relative humidity is restored, It';s loud & there'll be little hoses running all over the basement, but it works great. Man I was really hoping you'd chime in, thanks! Only note, it is not a basement floor. It's on the 1st floor, and the basement is finished (I finished it last year, including sheetrocking the ceiling.) I know they can tell moisture content underneath flooring with some gadgets, I'm hoping the guy coming today/tomorrow can do that before we get into mitigation/deductible territory. Also plumbing co is sending someone out to fix the leak (though tightening the connect doesn't seem like it'd be that hard. It's the damage already done that's the issue. We'll see what the company owner says later.) Update: Turns out it was more than just tightening it down. Brand new flood protection valve had a broken gasket, and... caused it to flood. Which it then didn't detect. loving irony. 
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Jun 7, 2021 16:17
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PainterofCrap posted:Keep that part. Keep all of the valve components. Do not let them leave your possession, as chain of custody must remain unbroken in order to have a successful recovery in subro. Put everything in a plastic bag & mark it with a description & the date. Get any documentation made to locate & identify this problem: bills, reports, names & numbers. Too late, the plumber said his insurance co would need it, and I didn't think anything of it. So far they've been willing to work with me though.
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Jun 7, 2021 22:29
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H110Hawk posted:That's your ceiling.  DaveSauce posted:Yeah turns out writing instructions is actually hard. Most people don't install light fixtures on a regular basis, there's no reason that a person should inherently know that the "mounting bracket" is the same thing as the "mounting plate." I would guess this is either a translation error, or the writer said, "eh gently caress it they'll know what I'm talking about" and moved on to the next thing. Same, except we had to make our own sandwiches. Many a PB&J were made that day with fingers and without bread. It's a parable I tell my own children now.
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Jun 10, 2021 21:01
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Stack Machine posted:Update: Nice. I don't think I've seen someone use a ridge board before. Are you using the joists as a sort of collar tie to keep the walls from falling out? Also, no double top-plate?
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Jun 14, 2021 14:58
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Stack Machine posted:I'm mostly using the ridge board because it seemed easy for amateur construction, i.e. no need for fasteners other than nails. The original shed on this slab had some collar ties high up just nailed in, but I don't know anything about the shear strength of nails so I wanted the ridge board too. Nails have great shear strength. Another alternative it to just use gusset plates. Cut up some plywood into triangles and bang em in with nails. If your trusses are only screwed down at this point, I'd also think about taking them off and adding a double top-plate. It's not super necessary in a shed that small, but overlapping the walls in all 4 directions helps to add rigidity to the walls.
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Jun 14, 2021 19:09
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Bucket traps, my man. They are ridiculously effective for rodents. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mR0Iz9qMzl0 I've also used the ones where you just layer the water with seeds to catch chipmunks. That also works really well.
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Jul 13, 2021 15:54
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Hed posted:I’ve got a bucket trap with the spinny can on it. Are you saying for chipmunks I should be able to forget the can and float seed on top of water in the bucket and they’ll go for a swim? That's exactly what I'm saying. Layer the top of the water with seeds so it looks like solid ground to them (doesn't look like water) and they'll jump right in and drown. I use black oil sunflower seeds. I've killed like 10 chipmunks this way. The only hard part is I've yet to figure out how to keep squirrels from getting to the seeds. They are bigger and more agile and are able to straddle the bucket and eat the seeds. Still, the success rate of the bucket was like 75% of the time I got at least one chipmunk.
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Jul 14, 2021 14:40
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actionjackson posted:I have some dog damage, just juxtaposed to pics together You could try the wet cloth and iron on the door, those may come out. That trim looks trashed though. Possible to find an exact match and replace it? Trim is easy to put in.
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Sep 2, 2021 22:15
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Fozzy The Bear posted:Is everything literally junk? What am I missing. Screw it in, man. SST stuff is awesome, I use it wherever I can. It can get expensive, but I always find it worth it.
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Sep 20, 2021 20:17
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Also called Cove Molding.
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Feb 27, 2022 01:57
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Re: Xmas light chat Get yourself one of these https://www.amazon.com/LightKeeper-...749495552&psc=1 It's literally voodoo magic, but it somehow actually works about half the time.
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Dec 10, 2022 16:26
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Corla Plankun posted:Or, and stay with me here because this is really out there, a loving metal screwdriver? I don't know what paints y'all are working with that could stand their ground against a metal screwdriver but I've never seen one in my life that wouldn't just immediately flake out of the way--aside from maybe enamel coatings, which would still probably shatter off if you knocked the back of the screwdriver with a hammer. Lookit this guy that's never gone through a box of pocket hole screws and found 10% of them unusable due to blue paint...
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Mar 6, 2023 16:53
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Brennanite posted:Unfortunately, spouse is not on-board with tiling. Something about my DIY projects tending to expand rapidly in scope and cost. Pfft. PVC trim it is. 
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May 17, 2023 14:05
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:The steam/clothes iron trick won't work completely in this case, because he absolutely severed fibers and removed material from the door. Bondo and paint is potentially an option, though. My primary goal here is to rehab the door enough to sell the house, so really all I care about is that there won't be issues that will make prospective buyers lowball me. All the effort you put into your workshop and you're going to sell? Hope it's good news, but if not I'm sorry man.
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Jul 20, 2023 20:46
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Door looks slick, good work. What was the 3rd trip to the hardware store for?
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Sep 28, 2023 16:23
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Motronic posted:Yeah, I get it. The reveal is wrong, it's not level. But that trim is painted, nailed and caulked to the wall. The appropriate time to address it is when you're painting that room because you're going to have to match both wall and trim paint or it will just become even more obvious after the repair. Wife: "I think the living room would really look great with a change of color. What about sea foam green?!" Motronic: "I'll go get my hammer."
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Oct 2, 2023 19:25
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There's no fixing that, fast or otherwise.
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Oct 23, 2023 20:13
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Inzombiac posted:It'll be so nice to enjoy the rain and not worry every time. There is nothing that feels quite as good as fixing a major water issue. Also condolences on your future PTSD, because even though you fixed it that anxiety when it rains never leaves you again.
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Nov 13, 2023 15:26
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Opopanax posted:Rent a cherry picker instead imo QFT A buddy of mine painted my house when I bought it (professional painter). Unbeknownst to me, he borrowed my two 20' ladders and "chained them together" to make it to the 25' apex of the gable end of the house. I didn't even see it and it still gave me the heebie jeebies. He said he does it all the time. Them's a different breed.
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Nov 28, 2023 15:27
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Wowporn posted:Why are't all homes made of concrete My dude, have I got a thread for you: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/the-concrete-underground.145073/
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Jan 29, 2024 16:39
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Leperflesh posted:Hm. Anecdote isn't data, but I replaced mine with rubber when I replaced my toilet about a year ago. No issues so far.
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Feb 26, 2024 15:25
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