Fix It Fast: Start here for DIY help! (You'll know when it's a problem by smell.)

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > Fix It Fast: Start here for DIY help! (You'll know when it's a problem by smell.)

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Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

Christoph posted:

I'm putting sheetrock ceiling in this shower. For the flat top piece, which way should the factory edge face? Toward the angled piece? Or outward toward the rest of the room? Or does it matter?

The factory edge is meant to be butted up to other factory edges to present a shallow area for your tape and mud to even out. In your spot, I suspect it won't make much difference, but I'd put it towards the angled piece.

What the other guy said about cement board isn't wrong though. If you're using the fancy dancy schluter system, and installing it properly, they claim green board is fine, but if it were me, I'd still use cement board for the walls. If you're *not* using the schluter system, then you definitely need cement board on the walls.

# ¿ Nov 23, 2020 12:10

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# ¿ May 14, 2024 19:38

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

wesleywillis posted:

How big a hole should be cut in to it, and what sort of bucket do you recommend for under the hole? 5 gallon ok?

I mean, none of us can answer those questions without knowing your fiber intake. Christ I'm getting sick of people asking for help without giving relevant details.

# ¿ Nov 28, 2020 20:09

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

regulargonzalez posted:

What do I do for a moulding on this corner?
https://i.imgur.com/1Jf8E9y.jpg
I'd estimate the angle at 30°.

I honestly can't come up with something that's not a little half assed. In that spirit, maybe some caulk strips like this? - https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Bathtub-Bathroom-Kitchen-11/dp/B07883NHTC

# ¿ Nov 30, 2020 02:34

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

Jenkl posted:

Already have one! Thats how I planned to cut the structural defect into my bathroom floor .

My mental block now is that we intend to redo this bathroom in the relatively near future. Having pulled the toilet, floor, and vanity, it's hard to put it all back temporarily knowing you're just gonna do it all again.
Still, I'm on an anti-rot crusade right now. I think that alone justifies the work. Especially since I don't have a concrete plan for when the re-do will happen.

I would not replace that right now if you're planning on redoing the bathroom in the sometime soon future. Unless it's noticeably soft, or actively spreading, it's pretty minor damage. Honestly, if you weren't redoing the bathroom, I'd probably not ever bother replacing it.

# ¿ Dec 2, 2020 19:39

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

floWenoL posted:

Attic stuff

Yeah, all those sheets should be resting on joists. The only potential tragedy in waiting is if one edge of a sheet isn't sitting on a joist and you step on that edge, causing the whole sheet to flip up.. if that makes sense. So just make sure they are resting securely since they don't appear to be nailed down.
The more I look at your pics, the less sense they make to me. In the first picture, the boards appear to be sitting below the only joist I can see, but also, I don't know why I only see one joist. I renounce my advice.

That's uh, not a lot of insulation. Are you in a pretty temperate area? It's definitely worth removing and replacing, although honestly it looks like you have so little in there that you could probably be lazy and just insulate over it if you didn't wanna bother removing the old stuff.

Slugworth fucked around with this message at 13:51 on Feb 6, 2021

# ¿ Feb 6, 2021 13:44

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

Looking at a house in a rural area today, and saw this thing in the yard. I'm embarrassed to admit I can't even begin to guess what it is.

# ¿ May 1, 2021 01:22

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

It's weird, because the only info I can find on company suggests that all they do as a company is convert cooking grease to biofuel.

# ¿ May 1, 2021 03:24

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

tater_salad posted:

Same

I have a good guess since the company's has like no web presence at all. And appears to have been bought in 2015 by Mahoney Environmental.

That setup was on the back of a truck of some kind and used to suck the fat out of the "fat dumpsters". That thing came off of the truck because it was broken /they sold the truck / replaced it and wanted it around as a spare.

Yeah, the thought occurred to me. It's definitely the type of area where such things would just be laying around on a property, but it was like, right at the front of the property near the street, it just felt like a strange place to be like "yeah, just drop it right there, perfect". Definitely looking more and more likely though.

# ¿ May 1, 2021 04:06

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

VelociBacon posted:

Leave it. When you go to remove it, peel it slowly, pulling it back away from the paint if that makes sense. If you just pull it up or pull it towards the paint as you're removing it you might gently caress up some of the paint edge.

e: I'd defer to the poster under me, I haven't painted in years.

To add a tiny bit to this, whenever removing tape from a painted surface, pull parallel to the surface, rather than away from it. So, like, your hand should stay near the painted surface rather than pulling away from it. Much less chance of the tape damaging the paint.

# ¿ May 23, 2021 12:03

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

BigBallChunkyTime posted:

Is it difficult to change the crank mechanism in a casement window? Are there different kinds of cranks or are they universal? The window was here when I bought the house so will I be able to tell from the crank which kind I need?

There are different types for sure, but a lot of them are fairly universal, you just grab a universal replacement from the depot and hope it looks like the one you end up pulling out of your window. Replacement is straightforward - depending on installation, you might need to remove a piece of trim to get the crank off, but otherwise it's just pulling the cover off the crank, and unscrewing it from the sill, then disengaging the arm from the window. If it ends up being a different style from the universal one, there should be a part number you can Google on the crank somewhere.

# ¿ Jun 2, 2021 00:00

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

mobby_6kl posted:

I have one of those Ikea tables that I sanded and painted last year. Today it's not looking all that hot even though the paint was supposedly good for wood.

It's peeling off by itself over time and with a nylon brush it's coming off pretty quickly. Any ideas what would be the simplest way to get it looking presentable again?

Define simple and define presentable. It's a small enough surface that I'd sand it down to bare wood and then hit it with a good oil based primer and paint (I've always been told oil based is best for exterior wood, there might be other schools of thought).

If presentable means the surface can look a bit uneven, then just scrape off whatever is loose and use a good quality primer (water or oil based, depending on what type of paint is already on there), then paint.

# ¿ Jun 6, 2021 17:27

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

actionjackson posted:

oh god this is embarrassing

why do they call it that, is it because if it's new construction the plate is a separate piece at that point?

Where do they call it out as a mounting plate? There's no marking on it in that image.

# ¿ Jun 9, 2021 00:52

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

Bioshuffle posted:

My garden hose faucet doesn't leak during normal use, but as I'm shutting the water off, sometimes it sprays out a torrent of water. What exactly is going on? Does this mean the seal isn't water tight? I'm just confused, as it doesn't leak otherwise. I did use plumbing tape and everything. It looks like I have a backflow preventer bib. Is there a point to having this?

Unless it's a non standard sillcock, the seal should be coming from the rubber gasket, not the threads, so plumbers tape shouldn't be necessary (it shouldn't cause any issues, it's just not doing anything). Check that the gasket is present and in good condition.

# ¿ Jun 27, 2021 04:00

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

actionjackson posted:

I'm going a bit crazy here, after calling a few more places I think drilling into two studs and then using hanging wire is a lot better. But my drywall is apparently 2" thick??? I don't know how this is possible, I measured how far that strap went into the other hole which had a stud, before hitting something, and it was 2".

I may be misunderstanding you, but are you saying you stuck it in a hole confirmed to be over a stud? If so, wouldn't you then be measuring the thickness of the drywall plus the depth of whatever hole was left in the stud itself?

# ¿ Aug 25, 2021 01:37

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

It's pretty common in apartments/condos to use double layer drywall between units/the hallway for fire rating purposes.

# ¿ Aug 25, 2021 12:02

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

Qubee posted:

To rent an adequate drill for the job won't be expensive, and buying the piping will be cheap as chips, so why are we going to pay hundreds of dollars for something we can DIY.

What is this wall made of that you need a powerful drill to access the pipe?

# ¿ Aug 26, 2021 01:14

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

H110Hawk posted:

Nice hole.

First it need to dry, then you seal it off and wait. Also trash bags are fine, if you get it sealed up then don't rip it down. Plastic sheets are just way easier to use.

I can't believe convinced someone on the internet to bash a hole in their ceiling.

Ooh, ooh, see if you can get him to notch out some floor joists!

# ¿ Sep 7, 2021 11:13

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

actionjackson posted:

I don't use some of my ceiling fixtures, so I use the blank decora plates on the right. For the ones with fixtures I use the decora toggles on the left. Unfortunately the blank plates have a design defect - the circled area that is empty on the toggle is filled in on the blank plate - meaning there is no way to get it flush with the wall, as the inner part of the decora screwless wall plate (the part you screw in) makes contact there. What would be a good way to fix this? some sort of really small hole punch? Obviously I would need to do four of them.

Any sort of small saw, side nipper, file, etc. There's honestly not a lot of wrong ways to do it. I think I'd find a rough file/rasp that was the right size and have at it. Should eat through that plastic fast.

Dremel with a shaping bit if you've got one.

# ¿ Sep 12, 2021 01:46

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

H110Hawk posted:

Yeah try what I suggested. If you get nightlight instead of regular light then try the blue to red instead of lights-black to red.

Quoting you for reference, but question for whoever - Any clue why there are two neutrals? I've hung a bunch of ceiling fans in my time and don't recall them having multiple neutrals.

# ¿ Sep 18, 2021 13:17

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

melon cat posted:

Sorry if I'm not understanding this but shouldn't I be able to control the light and the bath fan independently? There are two light switches. And with the old boob light + fan combo that I ripped out one switch controlled the fan, the other controlled the light. This pair of light switches is in the same watercloset:

He's just saying there are 3 devices to control, and you only have two wires, so one way or another two of them will have to be linked together on one switch. You can swap them around however you desire, but having both lights tied together negates the purpose entirely of the nightlight feature (which, probably no big loss in my mind). Having the light and fan tied together is pretty common in bathrooms, and if you did that, you could have the nightlight on its own switch for quiet, low light nighttime urination.

# ¿ Sep 19, 2021 12:34

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

FogHelmut posted:

Is power yard tools at a premium right now? I bought a plate compactor from Home Depot last year for $400 to do a patio because renting one was $100 per day, and I didn't know what I was doing so buying a whole one was a better deal than renting an unknown amount of times.

Since using it, a plastic piece has broke off and it's been sitting in my yard under a roof but otherwise exposed for almost a year. It runs great even on the old gas that's been sitting in there.

So I listed it on Facebook Marketplace for $250 thinking I got money's worth out of it. My phone has been getting hammered. I've got 55 messages in 12 hours The first one was within minutes and is buying at full price.

Are these in high demand? I'm not regretting the sale, as I had originally figured $200 would be my point and listed at $250 for some negotiating room. I just have no idea what's going on with this market apparently.

My guess would be a bunch of landscapers saw a tool that, while 'used', has seen roughly .0001 percent the abuse of everything in their shop for almost half off retail.

# ¿ Sep 27, 2021 00:00

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

actionjackson posted:

does painting a popcorn ceiling change it's acoustic properties?

also why do ceilings have issues (defects etc.) that often require texturing to hide but walls do not (this is probably a really dumb question)?

Ceilings, at least in places with ceiling lights, are subject to the worst effects of lighting. The shallow angle that they are getting lit at tends to show every single little defect, the same way it's suggested to hold a light against a wall when you're drywalling or painting to check for issues.

It's the reason ceilings get their own special paint, which is formulated to be as flat/matte as possible.

# ¿ Oct 5, 2021 00:43

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

Closing on a house Tuesday, and I need to fence the yard. There are no fence panels in place, but there are 4 foot posts already in place for whatever reason. The issue is that my girlfriend really wants a 6 foot privacy fence.

Is there a non janky way to use the existing posts for a 6 foot fence? I can't think of one, but it's like 300 feet of fence line, and this would make my life significantly easier. And would be significantly cheaper.

# ¿ Nov 8, 2021 02:15

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

Rakeris posted:

Metal? If so some couplers, bolts, and pipe is all you need, iirc HD even sells kits, not sure how they price out when buying separate and cutting the pipe yourself though.

Sorry, should have been more specific - Wood privacy fence is the goal, existing posts are 4x4, approximately 4 feet high by eyeball.

# ¿ Nov 8, 2021 03:24

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

H110Hawk posted:

Fair enough, I didn't know treated wood wouldn't like wood glue. Drilling straight would be hilariously hard but maybe they are a drilling prodigy.

Narrator: "He wasn't"

Tie plates were my original plan, so I may end up going that route, although I do really like Kaiser's idea about sistering a 2x4 on, I think that would be a cleaner look than a tie plate, and pretty beefy. A bit more money, but if I can reuse these posts, it turns it from a hiring out for big money job to a me spending a weekend swearing job.

My main concern was that it was gonna be one of thos questions where everyone's like "No, you idiot, here are the 14 reasons you're overlooking that make this the worst idea ever".

# ¿ Nov 8, 2021 21:31

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

Fire Safety Doug posted:

Was this in the wrong place/too broad in scope? Or perhaps just too dumb to merit a reply?

I think you sort of answered your own question in post to some degree, so people may have not had a ton to add. You mentioned a full remodel is coming, so I'm gonna give options of varying degrees of half assedness.

The wall - Proper repair is to sand down any high spots, grab some plaster/mud, float that whole area with a large knife (trowel), sand, prime, paint. Floating an area this large nicely on your first try will be tough. Or, if you've got something to kind of cover/hide the area, just spackle the holes, clean the wall, throw a coat or two of paint on it, call it a day.

The tile - Proper fix is go get a small tub of premixed tile cement and a small tub of premixed grout that roughly matches the surrounding grout. Watch a video on how to tile. It's pretty easy and all you'll need is a notched trowel and a grout sponge. Or, if this is all coming out soon and you don't care that much, grab some liquid nails, glue the tiles onto the wall, grout or caulk the grout lines.

The abandoned electric box. If there's no wire in it, your temporary fix would be to pop out the existing tile, and replace it with a full tile. If there's wire in it, just buy a blank plate to mount to the box (You don't want to permanently cover wire junctions).

The little bit of pipe, buy a nice houseplant and put it in front of if until you remodel. Which, honestly, a big enough house plant actually solves all of these problems until the remodel.

Slugworth fucked around with this message at 00:04 on Nov 9, 2021

# ¿ Nov 9, 2021 00:01

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

Fire Safety Doug posted:

Thanks very much, appreciate it. I don’t have any kind of date for a remodel and with a new baby in the house, it might be a while until we have sufficient funds, which is why I’m trying to figure out if I can DIY this.

Ahh, then yeah, I'd recommend giving it a shot properly. It's a small area, in a relatively forgiving spot (a corner that won't be terribly visible if you throw up some shelves, knife holder, etc). Watch a couple videos on plastering, tiling, and come back here with more specific questions as you go along. This is well, well within the scope of an inexperienced DIYer.

# ¿ Nov 9, 2021 02:03

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

Xenix posted:

T-posts and some sort of wire fencing (like hog fence or deer fence) sounds like it'd do the trick. Not sure how hard it'll be to remove the posts from the ground after you're done with the fence, but at least there's be no concrete slugs to contend with.

Ditto'ing this. We just moved into a new house and won't be able to do a fence anytime real soon, so this is exactly what we did. We went with construction fencing versus deer fence, but it was a breeze to put up (get yourself a post driver), and driving the posts just a foot into the ground has yielded a nice sturdy fence.

If aesthetics are important, this is.. Not the solution for you.

# ¿ Nov 23, 2021 01:45

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

Bone Crimes posted:

One of my pipes sprung a leak this morning in my basement. I heard it burst and got to it quickly-ish, but there was still about water about 1-1.5 inches high in some spots. I got rid of all the standing water in ~1 hour, but now I'm wondering what to do beyond fans and dehumidifiers. Luckily my floor is epoxy coated concrete, so it was easy to wet vac, but my main concern is getting the water out of the walls/wood that it touched.

I've googled around but I don't trust any of what I'm reading. Is there a thread-approved to-do list or reference for this situation?

One list online told me to scrub the floor with bleach solution which seems like a good idea, but might be overkill for my case.

If it was only an inch and a half at most and you got to it quick, leave your fans and dehus running for at least 3 days, and you'll probably be fine.

Keep in mind though, water wicks upwards, and latex paint acts as a pretty decent vapor barrier, so drying wet drywall from the room side of the wall can be tricky. If you're concerned enough, you can pull the baseboard and punch 1 inch holes every 16 inches to get airflow in the cavities, then reinstall the baseboard after a few days.

# ¿ Dec 3, 2021 19:35

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

Bone Crimes posted:

Ok, I'll look into it, thanks!

To give more context to the issues:

The problem was the water filter, in the middle there with the blue screen on top. It was shooting water out of somewhere on top - I didn't check where, I just ran to the water shut off. We had it serviced, and the media replaced recently, so I have a suspicion they didn't re-install it right. So I'll be calling them about that. The advantage here is that It has a cut out valve, so we have water for the house and don't need a plumber to fix anything to live in the house. The leak started in the laundry room and water made it out to the rec room, but didn't get to the downstairs bedroom (thank goodness, as that has carpet. There were some rugs in the rec room, and we're just gonna ditch them.

Here's one of my concerns, - we have a nice big built-in that got wet and I need to get the water out from under. You can also see the flooring type.

Here's the other side of the room, and the water didn't reach too high, and it didn't reach all of the baseboards around the room. So I might take Slugworth's suggestion and pull some of the baseboards. Isn't there a test tool for moisture? Maybe i'll get one of those too, does anyone know if they work well?

How much of that built in is accessible from that utility closet thing? If you can dry from behind and the front, you may not be in bad shape.

# ¿ Dec 3, 2021 20:38

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

I. M. Gei posted:

Our house was built in the 60s and hasn't been rewired in the time we've been here and very probably not before that either. It needs to be but it hasn't been yet.

Metal box and no ground wire suggests that your electric may all be run through conduit, in which case the boxes and conduit act as your ground. You can test this with a multimeter, do not assume it to be the case.

# ¿ Dec 8, 2021 19:36

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

Alright, people with larger wooded lots, what the hell do I do with all these leaves? Traditionally I've had either smaller, less leafy yards where you just raked everything to the curb and the city took it, or I just mulched them with the mower. The mower isn't mulching them thoroughly enough to keep up, and my new town only takes bagged leaves, which would be an impossible task.

I'm afraid just leaving them will turn the yard into a giant mud pit for my dogs, otherwise I'd just let nature run it's course. I really don't care about the aesthetics. I'm not a weird yard guy, I just want a functional yard.

# ¿ Dec 18, 2021 23:47

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

CRUSTY MINGE posted:

There are leaf vacuum/blower combos out there that will have a bag you attach to the blowing end, and a giant nozzle you attach to the sucking side. Then you just dump the bag into a lined trash bin.

Can't use them when the leaves are wet or they'll gum it up, but the one I had years ago worked great.

Alternatively, lay your trash can down and rake into it.

Yeah, getting them gathered up isn't an issue, I don't even mind just raking them, but there's just way too many to dispose of. I'm trying not to exaggerate, but I'd guess I'd be filling at least a hundred compost bags.

# ¿ Dec 19, 2021 00:39

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

Yeah, I started bagging them today and stopped when I'd barely made a dent 10 bags in, compressing them as much as possible. That's 3 weeks after my last raking where I just made a gigantic pile all along the tree line at the back of my yard (the last 40 feet or so of my property is dense woods), mowing every week since.

For ecological reasons, I don't love the idea of burning them, but I'm currently looking into the legality of that option in my town.

My only hope long term is that some of this will be mitigated by getting a mower that mulches better. I'll be upgrading to a riding mower sometime next year from the Ryobi electric that I'm using now.

# ¿ Dec 19, 2021 01:19

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

Khizan posted:

Fix It Fast: I'd probably just use a lovely old kitchen knife.

# ¿ Jan 3, 2022 19:26

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

diremonk posted:

My girlfriends house has a leak coming from the ceiling in her kichten. I climbed into the crawl space that is next to the kitchen and could see the wet spot on the plywood directly under the roof itself. There aren't any pipes that I could see. We haven't had any rain in our area for about two weeks so it shouldn't be from that. The only idea I can think of is that one of the vent pipes is clogged or something. She can't get a plumber out for a couple days so I'm trying to figure out what the issue could be so they have an idea before the plumber shows up. Once I get home I can post pics that might explain it better if you need them.

Has the weather in your area recently gone from freezing to not?

# ¿ Jan 11, 2022 03:10

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

(edit: missed a page of responses, nevermind)

# ¿ Jan 17, 2022 06:03

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

Just sort of venting about something very petty, but which is kind of baffling to me, and this may be the only place on earth where someone might be sympathetic.

My girlfriend really liked this doorknob, and while I'd never buy a Kwikset for an exterior door, I figured eh, it's fine for a bathroom. This design is blowing my mind though. It's hard to make out in my photo, but in person you can very obviously see the bare metal internals of the knob around both of the screws. It's just such an incredibly half assed finish for a 30 dollar 'designer series' knob. And it's even more baffling because rather than being like every other doorknob ever, where you put both knobs together, and then screw them together, this one has you screw a plate on the 'inside' side of the door to the outside knob, and then slide the interior knob on over it. Which means there's no reason for the screws to even be visible in the first place. They just put two holes in the cover for fun.

It's dumb enough that I was sure I'd missed a step, or screwed something up, but that's how it's shown in all their marketing photos too.

# ¿ Jan 22, 2022 03:16

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

PainterofCrap posted:

There should be two little plastic covers for those holes.

Couldn't agree more, but there aren't, according to the instruction manual, parts list, and marketing photos.

# ¿ Jan 22, 2022 03:39

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# ¿ May 14, 2024 19:38

Slugworth: Feb 18, 2001; If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

Cowslips Warren posted:

What would be a cause for a wet carpet spot that isn't close to any window, bathroom, or appliance with a water line? It is a small spot in the spare bedroom, haven't seen any roof leaks.

No cat or dog urine smell or shine under a blacklight.

Did your accident prone neighbor accidentally launch an icicle through your window, destroying your high end audio equipment?

My guess would just be dilute, and therefore not very smelly, cat or dog urine. A lot of the diseases that lead to inappropriate urination also result in pretty dilute urine.

# ¿ Jan 22, 2022 04:03

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > Fix It Fast: Start here for DIY help! (You'll know when it's a problem by smell.)

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