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several of my cabinets doors are not straight, in this example the first one does touch the frame at the top, whereas the second one works great (the door is very straight, and the bumpers on top and bottom both touch the frame). I tried adding a few more rubber bumpers to the first one towards the bottom but it didn't help. I assume the noise is the reverb from the top part that doesn't touch. https://i.imgur.com/WB71l7w.mp4 what's the best way to deal with this? maybe there are rubber bumpers that stick out more? or would new soft-close hinges resolve the issue?
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Oct 18, 2020 22:22
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PainterofCrap posted:Those hinges are adjustable. you know I looked these up, they appear to be an old version of the blum compact 33, but even for the current ones all I saw was height adjustment (using the screw that's on the edge mount in this case) and side to side adjustment (using a screw that this hinge doesn't have) in the manual. what am I missing here? what I really want is for the top of the door to be closer to the frame, which would mean an adjustment to the left in this picture
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Oct 18, 2020 22:41
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yeah a lot of stuff in here is cheap crap even on the newer hinges, the additional screw would just allow left to right adjustment as you are looking at the front of the door. I don't think the type of adjustment I actually need exists, which would be akin to moving the part attached to the frame left or right instead of up or down. in this pic, I can do the height adjustment, but I don't have the screw to do the side adjustment (but again, I don't need that adjustment anyway). PainterofCrap posted:You might be able to bend the tang between the stile (edge) mount and the door mount to suck 'em in a little. what do you mean by this? i only know tang as a kool-aid competitor
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Oct 18, 2020 22:57
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Motronic posted:
ah that makes sense thx as an alternative, would using a clamp that holds the part of the cabinet door that doesn't touch (like the upper part in my video) to the frame help?
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Oct 18, 2020 23:11
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it looks like blum does have a hinge that allows you to adjust on the third dimension (closer to and further away from the cabinet frame), but it's in their clip-top series which is for frameless cabinets. depth adjustment in this image
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Oct 18, 2020 23:38
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it's not a new house, i've just decided to use the pandemic to pay a lot more attention to things in the home
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Oct 19, 2020 01:12
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this is very dumb but what is the difference 24 5/16" and 26 3/4" distances in this picture, the lines make it look like they should be the same
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Oct 30, 2020 04:02
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thank you. That's a bosch which is nice because it has that recessed area so the cord doesn't take up space. But it's quite expensive. I'm trying to find the ones that will stick out the least, but it seems like ~26 something is pretty standard depth to the front of the oven door. It's nothing something that has any sort of filter on websites. It doesn't seem like other brands have that recess thing which is really nice to help it get right up against the wall. There's also the "slide-in" vs. "freestanding" where the slide-in doesn't have finished sides, but there doesn't seem to be any other difference. It seems like either can go into a slide-in space.
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Oct 30, 2020 04:23
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Bad Munki posted:Damnit, now you got me looking at Bosch appliances. Ranges and ovens of all sorts and so on. The dishwasher was a gateway drug. I have a Bosch dishwasher because they are well known for being the best in that category, but for other appliances they are definitely not. They are probably my favorite appearance wise though. One really nice thing their ranges do have, besides that recessed space that allows you to have the oven right up against the wall without cords getting in the way, and also an overlay on the stovetop so it covers the little gaps between the range and the countertops. I don't have any "staging" - my oven just sits on the floor. But it's a standard 30" oven space, and looking at the dimensions of the slide-in ovens it should fit just fine. definitely prefer the controls on the front, and once my existing white wall panel is removed, will either paint or tile the gap in between the range and the microwave. trigger warning - electric range https://www.homedepot.com/p/Samsung...roduct-overview actionjackson fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Oct 30, 2020 |
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Oct 30, 2020 05:01
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Looking at the pictures, it looks like there is some sort of recessed area on the rear bottom (lol) part, including where the 240V wall connection is. I suppose this is the only way you could plug it in while being able to have it all the way up to the wall (i.e. the plug doesn't stick between the back of the range and the wall).
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Oct 30, 2020 05:39
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Elviscat posted:Yeah, every electric range will have some sort of rear indent to accommodate the electric or gas connections while sitting flush, wouldn't much work otherwise. thank you. my current gas range doesn't actually go up to the wall because the giant gas cord thing gets in the way.
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Oct 30, 2020 16:11
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I know this is city-specific, but does it seem strange that my city would need to do an inspection of my newly installed water heater, but not on my newly installed A/C or furnace? The little card mentions the following that need inspections in the mail bathroom fixtures kitchen fixtures water piping laundry tub/floor drain gas range gas dryer water heater gas meter move
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Nov 25, 2020 23:36
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I just installed wood mini-blinds for my patio door. They included these optional hold-down pieces so that when you open the door it doesn't fly around. But the instructions were confusing. My blinds came with the little pieces in the left image, and since it's a patio door I'd be doing the one on the right side. But it looks like there is supposed to be a hole in the bottom blind, but mine doesn't have one, and it doesn't say anything about making one... so I just drill a little nub in there for the hook to hold onto? obviously the other part of the piece gets screwed into the door.
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Jan 29, 2021 22:55
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can water cause damage to powder coated steel if it's not wiped up immediately?
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Jan 31, 2021 20:19
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Weird question I know, but is there any way to use a European light fixture (in this case a floor lamp) in an American home? Obviously it would be 230V and I would have 120V. Yes I have an actual reason for this question :p
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Feb 9, 2021 21:16
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Elviscat posted:Probably/it depends, do you have a picture/description of this floor lamp? https://www.dmlights.com/louis_poulsen_yuh_floor_dim___automatic_switch_off_black~12ZKZ technical details are about halfway down they also said it's not UL listed, is that a safety issue?
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Feb 9, 2021 21:36
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thanks guys, so I could use that lamp as long as I buy the adaptor? the reason I asked is because that's quite a bit less than buying it from a US store, and there's no VAT or shipping cost. But there is still an import tax which might erase much of the difference.
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Feb 9, 2021 22:40
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Elviscat posted:No, the adapter is included. I wasn't sure if I would get all four of those plugs/plates in the picture with the red box around it, or just the EU one. Though even if it just came with the EU one I already have an adapter that I used for traveling.
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Feb 9, 2021 22:49
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PainterofCrap posted:Assuming you have a standard threaded bulb socket: Put on a US plug and screw in a 110V bulb. thanks - it's not standard. I don't even think the light itself can be replaced except by a professional, but they typically last forever. I looked at the product info for the US and EU version, and in both cases it said "LED 2700K 10W" for the bulb, so maybe I would only need to change the plug?
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Feb 10, 2021 01:00
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PainterofCrap posted:Sorry, thought you were referring to a standard light fixture until I saw the following replies. thanks, I don't have electrical skills behind plugging in an adaptor, but it sounds like just doing that is fine, since it covers 100-230V? edit: I'd also be curious why there would be such a big price difference between the US and EU versions of a light fixture. Does it have to do with electrical standards required? actionjackson fucked around with this message at 01:44 on Feb 10, 2021 |
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Feb 10, 2021 01:23
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Elviscat posted:You can't cut the plug off, because it's molded into the power supply case, it most likely comes with the adapter, if not it's fed by a little LED power supply, google "LED Power Supply" and you'll get your choice of a billion cheap power supplies with a 5.5mm DC cannon plug that should work with the light as-is. Yeah, and as mentioned above the adaptor is exactly the same in the US and EU version, it's just the plug on the end is different of course. So I should be able to use the EU plug and then a EU-US adaptor like the ones you use when travelling.
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Feb 10, 2021 06:17
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I wanted to follow-up on my post a few pages ago about buying that floor lamp from an EU site, where you guys pointed out the EU and US model are basically the same (the product sheet mentioned accepting 100-240V), you just put on a different plug. I did email them and they said "We as an EU based supplier can only acquire CE certified items. This fixture is UL listed, however the power supply is a switched one and should work on 110v. Normally the different socket plates should be included in the box." (I think they meant "not UL listed") I'm just wondering what a "switched" power supply is? Is that one that can accept a range of different voltages?
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Feb 12, 2021 18:26
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how easy is it for an electrician to install one of those circular junction boxes on a wall? I'd like to do that so I can put up a sconce, as most sconces only have that connection type instead of having a cord.
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Feb 26, 2021 21:02
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Elviscat posted:There's a lot of sconces that are cord and plug connect connectable nowadays. okay thanks. i'm in a condo, and there are two outlets on the wall in question. so the location of the nearest outlet is relevant? I have no idea what a stud bay is, sorry!
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Feb 26, 2021 21:57
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Hi, here's two I'm considering this one requires the junction box, and the switch is on the lamp https://www.dwr.com/lighting-wall-sconce/type-75-wall-sconce/2196973.html?lang=en_US this one has a cord, it's a bit more expensive but obviously then I wouldn't need an electrician, and it's dimmable which is really nice for me. there's one switch that does both on/off and dim on the lamp https://www.muuto.com/product/Tip-Wall-Lamp--p24532/p24532/ After what you've both mentioned I think the corded one is definitely the better option, and I can just position it in a way that most of the cord can be hidden - for example just outside of, and right above the headboard actionjackson fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Feb 26, 2021 |
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Feb 26, 2021 23:19
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Is is strange that my gas range (GE profile) doesn't have any inset behind it for the gas tubing? nor is there any inset in the back wall, so I can't actually push it all the way back - it ends up having to stick out a couple of inches from the wall.
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Mar 1, 2021 04:11
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drat those sub-zeros really do last forever they are all built-in now as the Euro style is becoming very popular, not sure about in the 1980s though
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Mar 1, 2021 18:19
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life is killing me posted:I can’t produce any visual so bear with me, but could you call a plumber to ask what they could do? Or check the manual? I have a GE gas range/oven (LP tho) and it pretty much goes flush with the wall, though I don’t know if it’s strange that yours doesn’t have an inset because I don’t know if your range is natty gas or LP or if there would be any difference in how the make the two types beyond the tubing and valves themselves (which I’d imagine would be different anyway). yeah I should have posted a pic, looks like the back does have a bit of an inset for the tubing, but the gas connection from the wall is sticking out so the oven runs into that. Is that weird?
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Mar 1, 2021 18:38
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PainterofCrap posted:That solid copper line is the culprit. Never seen that used for a gas feed. thanks, I think that copper line actually can fit in that inset though (you can see the inset is deeper than the combined depth of the two tubes). It's the part that's sticking out from the wall that it's running into. The amount that solid pipe thing comes out the wall is the same distance as the gap when I push the oven in all the way. I'm going to replace my appliances some point in the next year or two because they are all 16 years old, so I probably won't replace anything as I don't feel comfortable loving around with gas lines, but I appreciate the explanation. The appliance place said they could push that "stub-out" back into the wall for me when I get my new oven, which will be electric anyway (don't yell at me, my city charges hundreds of dollars in fees for new or replacement gas installations) actionjackson fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Mar 1, 2021 |
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Mar 1, 2021 18:50
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yeah that's definitely nice! I still don't get the piping thing though.
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Mar 1, 2021 22:37
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are furnace filters that have carbon added worth the extra cost? https://nordicpure.com/product/16x25x5brand/ e.g. MERV 12 vs. MERV 12 + Carbon it's about $6 extra per filter
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Mar 16, 2021 22:00
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thank you for the very detailed response! I was told MERV 11+, but my filters are quite thick (4 3/8", the second size listed in the link)
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Mar 18, 2021 00:53
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okay thanks again, no smoking but I do have a dog
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Mar 18, 2021 02:38
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Charles Ingalls posted:I wanna turn this: please give me your kitchen (btw are those nelson bubble lamps)? unrelated - when hiring someone to replace the tile floor in a bathroom, is removing the vanity typically required (in addition to the toilet of course)? my bathroom floor is hella ugly, so I'm looking to do this, but I've also found places that do refinishing which is why more affordable. They use a "binary compound chemical coating" since obviously paint won't work, and it isn't affected by humidity. They said they don't typically do it and is not covered by warranty, but at the same time it's only $650 and I don't need to remove any fixtures. actionjackson fucked around with this message at 19:08 on Mar 25, 2021 |
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Mar 25, 2021 19:02
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I have a HPL (high pressure laminate) countertop in a solid color from Wilsonart. Are minor scratches pretty much inevitable with this? By minor I mean that you can't actually feel it at all when you put your finger on it, so it's pretty artificial, but I was told there's basically no way to get rid of it. You only see it when the light hits it a certain way, but I feel like that's just going to happen no matter what, and that it's simply more noticeable because I have a solid color, vs. a pattern. I know there are kits you can by to "fix" them, but I've heard they don't actually work long term. actionjackson fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Apr 10, 2021 |
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Apr 10, 2021 23:17
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I talked to a place that did "cabinet remodeling" where they keep the frame, but put on larger doors that give a frameless look, and the appropriate hinges, and paint them. It was about 1/3 the cost of putting in new cabinets. Dryer question: recently, a lot of condensation builds up when running my electric dryer, so much so that there is moisture on the wall, and on the glass top of my washer. Should I be purchasing a dryer vent cleaning kit to help with this? It also looks like I should be checking for the debris where the dryer vents to the outside. edit: never mind, it seems that the vent on the back of the dryer is not going into the ducting. This might have happened when I was trying to clean out all the dust from back there. I assume that's the source of the issue. actionjackson fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Apr 11, 2021 |
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Apr 11, 2021 18:43
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Elviscat posted:Yeah, something's wrong with your vent, make sure it's run straight, well sealed at any connections, and clean. I went and pushed it back in, seems fine now. I'm just an idiot. Is there supposed to be any sort of tape or other sealant where the vent coming from the back of the dryer goes into the venting coming from the wall? I don't see anything. There is some sort of tape or sealant where the venting goes into the wall though.
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Apr 11, 2021 19:17
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Elviscat posted:Yeah, you're gonna want to tape that, aluminum foil ducting tape (not duct tape) is best. thanks! It's weird because I don't think it was ever taped and I've been here ten years. At least I don't see any tape or tape residue. btw for the "cabinet" remodeling thing, I have a small galley kitchen with six lower cabinets, six upper cabinets, and six doors. The estimate I got was as follows: paint existing cabinet boxes 255 x 9 = 2295 doors replaced with new doors and hinges 155 x 12 = 1860 drawers replaced with new door fronts and glides 115 x 6 = 690 so that's about 5k. Of course there's a million other "extras" you can do that inflate the cost if you want, like trash pull-outs, one of those little pull down drawers right below the sink to hold sponges and such, etc. I have framed cabinets, and I want a frameless appearance, so this is a pretty good deal - a full reno would be at least 15k based on various estimates. Also this let's me keep my countertops, which I got a couple years ago.
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Apr 11, 2021 19:22
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:Thanks for the advice, to the other goons too. I haven't had it done, I just had them come by for an estimate. For the door it says "maple veneer, solid panel with MDF center" I assume they paint over the veneer - choosing maple makes sense than as it's one of the easiest woods to paint. I would definitely try the remodeling, if you do a full reno they may not be able to save the existing countertops (depends on how they are attached).
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Apr 12, 2021 00:02
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I'm going to get a few 15 amp GFCI outlets to match my new wall plates, but noticed something weird with the two main brands HD sells (lutron and leviton) https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lutron-15-Amp-Tamper-Resistant-GFCI-Duplex-Receptacle-in-White-CAR-15-GFST-WH/206793173 1 for $49 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton...1-04W/305340161 4 for $55??? there doesn't seem to be any enormous differences, though one is 120 volt and the other is 125 volt, and I have no idea if I can do either voltage. I'm wondering if maybe some Lutron stuff is just out of stock actionjackson fucked around with this message at 16:18 on Apr 20, 2021 |
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Apr 20, 2021 16:15
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