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NoSpoon
Jul 2, 2004

Why not just pop the screw out of the fixed side, scoot it over a smidge, then pop the screw back in but at the top end of the slot?

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NoSpoon
Jul 2, 2004

floWenoL posted:

get the required height (~3.5").

What about a 4x4 stick of timber. A dressed one should be close on 3.5” and after you sit a washer on it it shouldn’t go anywhere.

NoSpoon
Jul 2, 2004

Jose Cuervo posted:

Based on your post this is what I plan on doing (this is a top down view):
https://imgur.com/a/rqsEGhS

Does this look reasonable?
Someone else might be able to tell you with more certainty, but shouldn’t those be nails not screws into the back studs? Nails have more shear strength which I think is what matters here.

NoSpoon
Jul 2, 2004
Have you hit timber (lath?) there? If so, potentially just screwing straight through the whole mess into the timber behind it will work.

NoSpoon
Jul 2, 2004

actionjackson posted:

thanks for mentioning the dishwasher thing, mine is 50 db max and it's insanely quiet, so I think 60-65 would be fine.

Remember dB isn’t a linear scale. 60dB is twice as loud as 50dB. 60dB is also 100 times more powerful than 50dB, so a single 60dB unit would sound the same level as 100 50dB units.

If your goal here is quiet, buy the quiet one.

NoSpoon
Jul 2, 2004

Bobulus posted:

- I could do something wacky like shim the entire wall, but that would be such a pain in the rear end.
Can you use the existing drywall as your shim and just go straight over the top (after cutting a slot around the pipe of course)?

NoSpoon
Jul 2, 2004
Wonder if you could (or could have) replaced the screw with an equivalent hex head. Seems like it’d be easy to do up with an Allen key.

NoSpoon
Jul 2, 2004

Lawnie posted:

To run irrigation to my garden, I’m going to need to get a water line across this cement path somewhere.

Can you just dig a hole either side of the path a foot out from the house and tunnel under the path? Ideally jam some kind of conduit in there (drain pipe?) and push as much material back around it as you can, but shouldn’t cause too much drama if (big if) the path has any reinforcing at all. I’d certainly feel more comfortable with the water being there rather than in the door threshold.

NoSpoon
Jul 2, 2004

nwin posted:

Edit: never mind, the plate is too high so I think I need to lower it.
You might get enough movement just by tightening the screws on the top hinge. Optionally replacing at least one of the screws with a longer one that goes all the way into the framing timber.

NoSpoon
Jul 2, 2004
Steel wool ignites at 700°C or 1300°F. Radiators are maybe 90°/200°. You have about as much chance of lighting paper by breathing on it.

NoSpoon
Jul 2, 2004

dizzywhip posted:

the same grout that's between the tiles.

Surely grout won’t stick to metal too well. Have you tried pulling hard? I’d try fishing a few bits of wire through the holes so you’re not just pulling on one tiny bit of metal, then pulling hard.

Spending some quality time smacking the grate with a rubber mallet might loosen it up too.

NoSpoon
Jul 2, 2004

Bobulus posted:

I've got a wall I want to hang some shelving on. Problem is that this used to be an external wall before a previous owner added a room, and what it appears they did was just slap drywall over the pre-existing siding and foam insulation. This means that the wall studs are too deep for my stud finder to detect them. By my math, I'd need to penetrate roughly 4 inches into the wall with a screw before I'd even touch the studs. Typical wall anchors wouldn't work because they'd be unable to spread their arms with the siding behind the drywall.

Any brilliant ideas on how to find the studs? I guess I could just guess and patch any wrong guesses, but that seems very inelegant.

Can’t you just use the stud finder on the opposite side of the wall and measure back to a door or something?

NoSpoon
Jul 2, 2004
Why not just buy black screws? They’ll be like $4 and a whole lot less messing around

NoSpoon
Jul 2, 2004

neogeo0823 posted:

I really should make a jig for this, yeah. Maybe I can get that done this weekend....

Could be as simple as putting the drill into the correctly placed hold on your good block, the placing 4 bits of wood around it and clamping them down. Each block in, then rotate 180°, and they should be identical.

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NoSpoon
Jul 2, 2004
I had a similar lock. Took it to a locksmith. None of the sizes of new mortise lock lined up, so got them to make me a new key for the original. Problem solved for $25 or so.

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