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Plant resources. If you have a resource/nursery to add to this here list.Plant info/identification
Outdoor nurseries There's obviously a ton of places to get plants but these are the ones I or other goons have ordered plants from and been happy with what arrived.
Supplies
Succulents I'm claiming the rest of this post in the name of succulents. Succulent? Can I eat them? Succulents are plants that have developed methods of storing water in above-ground tissue in response to dry (or drought-prone) environments. Cacti count in your heart even if horticulturalists want to exclude them. Succulents come in many (sometimes strange) forms.     (Pachycereus marginatus f. cristata; Haworthia springbokvlakensis; Sempervivum wulfenii; Crassula capitella subsp. thyrsiflora) Some of them even flower, if you are nice to them.    (Titanopsis calcarea from elgarbo; Sedum morganianum; Cereus validus) Why succulents? Many succulents make excellent houseplants if you can provide them with enough light; they don't need a ton of fussing, and they won't turn into a wilted mess if you forget to water them for a couple of days. Some of them also make excellent garden plants if you can maintain good drainage. How do I not kill my succulents? Don't water them too much—they will die. You will want to let most succulents dry out between waterings. Some popular succulents, including epiphytic cacti like Schlumbergera (Christmas/Thanksgiving/Easter cacti), want quite a bit of water, while others (say Lithops) should be watered very rarely. If you aren't sure if you should be watering yet, you probably shouldn't. For most succulents you will be able to see quite clearly if they aren't getting enough to drink: their water storing tissues will start to shrivel up and wrinkle, and eventually (if they can) they'll start dropping leaves from the bottom up. What should I plant my succulents in? While most succulents are sold in potting soil mixed with some perlite, the conditions in your living room are likely to be quite different than those in a greenhouse in California. A decent sized pot of the succulent mix you'll find at your big box store of choice is going to retain water for weeks unless your house is bone dry. If you're worried about letting your indoor succulents sit in too much water (you probably should be) consider growing them in a gritty mix with limited organic materials and little if any soil (please no peat). You can make your own, if you want to. A basic recipe is a 1:1:1 mix of pine or fir bark fines (pet supply stores sometimes have this for people who keep reptiles); turface (calcined clay), or pumice, or perlite; and crushed granite, or pea gravel, or whatever small bits of non-porous rock make you happy. There are also many pre-made gritty mixes for succulents available of varying qualities. Bonsai Jack makes an excellent one. If you're repotting a plant from soil into a gritty mix you will first want to remove as much of the soil from the plant's roots as you can without maiming it. It can be very misleading to have a pot full of something that retains very little water while having a substrate that retains a great deal more water right up against the plant's roots. It can be helpful to start with the soil totally dry so that you can remove the dirt that the plant isn't holding on to (running a skewer or pencil through it can help if the soil is very compacted). Once you've removed what you can dry, you can generally wash the rest off using your sink, or a hose, or by soaking the roots/dirt in some water. How do I know if my succulent is rotting? Anyone who has grown succulents has likely dealt with rot. It may be that you watered them too often, or they may have come to you well on their way to dead. Often succulents sold in big box stores are already rotting below the surface before you even take them home. If your plant has leaves that are drying out and falling off it's probably either discarding leaves it doesn't need anymore or it doesn't have enough water. If your plant has leaves that are dying/falling off but they aren't drying out first then the plant isn't very happy, and it may be rotting. Rotting leaves/pads/etc will turn brown or translucent and mushy. Rot often starts in the roots, which can be harder to notice if you aren't paying attention. If your plant starts showing signs of water stress (getting wrinkly, dropping lower leaves) even though you're giving it plenty of water, it's likely that it has a root problem preventing it from taking up the water you are providing, and it may well be rot. You'll want to take a peek under its skirts before it's too late: rotten roots will generally be soft/mushy and dark brown, while healthy roots should be firm and have a lighter color. I think it's rotting. Depending on how advanced the rot is, you may still be able to save the plant. Many succulents can be regrown from a single leaf (google before you try this as some can't). If your plant has started to rot, it's important to remove all of the rotten tissue to stop the spread. You'll want to use a sharp (sterile) knife or scissors. Don't put it back in the same substrate after you've cleaned up the plant unless you've sterilized it (which you can do in the oven, if desired). 3% hydrogen peroxide is also effective at dealing with the fungi that cause root rot and can be applied to the underground portions of the plant or used as a soil drench. Why is my succulent growing all weird? Some succulents can be hard to keep compact in a home environment. Your plant might start out as a neat little rosette.  But if it starts looking like this.  Or like this.  It's because your plant wants more light, and it's stretching out to try and get it. Wallet fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Aug 26, 2022 |
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Dec 15, 2020 14:08
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Jestery posted:Saw this fella lounging around in my garden today I am envious of your climate and also your cute skink friend (I think it's a skink? I have no idea, we don't have lizards in these parts). It's about to drop a couple feet of snow here.
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Dec 16, 2020 22:34
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B33rChiller posted:In other news, can anyone help me determine if this is aloe or agave? The shape of the spines looks more like an Aloe to me but who the gently caress knows—the interior of an Agave leaf would be quite fibrous when you snapped it open so if there isn't any of that going on it's an Aloe. Hirayuki posted:I had posted earlier about the two nearly-12-year-old cactus plants I inherited from my beloved late grandmother. One was pretty rotted, but I took a ton of cuttings, and many are successfully rooting and growing. I repot those three at a time once they start to look like something. I put the healthier of the two OG plants into its own pot, at which point it promptly put out all kinds of new segments off its very oldest growth, right at the soil line. It's happy. Happy to hear these are doing well! It looked pretty dire as I recall.
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Dec 18, 2020 02:39
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Oil of Paris posted:And yeah I need to get fencing up around the more precious saplings, that’s a next week plan, I used to use the liquid fence but ran out and haven’t made it back to the tractor supply to restock, but I thought it worked well I had vole problems this year that I put in a bunch of those little solar powered vibrating things in to deal with (I was surprised that they seem to have actually worked) but now I'm slightly paranoid that with the snow those little fuckers will be tunneling around and chewing up all of my plants.
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Dec 23, 2020 14:57
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Yoruichi posted:Does anyone know what these are and what they want? I was given them by some friends who were moving house and didn't want them. Currently they are just sitting on my lawn. I would like for them to not die. This looks more like sun stress to me than them rotting—partially just because of how even the yellow is and partially because you can see that the intensity of the color is strongest on the leaves that aren't shaded by the rest of the plant. There are some popular Crassula ovata cultivars that have been selected specifically for this kind of coloration. Sun stress is kind of a line riding thing—if you take it too far the plant will be damaged, but a lot of succulents only take on the beautiful coloration you will see in photos if they are getting intense sun. It's never a bad idea to check a new succulent's roots to see if it's rotting, particularly if it has been getting a ton of rain, but those leaves look reasonably healthy if a little thin. Even if they aren't rotting you may want to check how root-bound those plants are, because it wouldn't surprise me if the one on the left, in particular, is due for some repotting. Edit: Looking more closely the one on the right appears to have an offset right near the edge of the pot so it may also be pretty tight as well. It looks, though it's hard to tell from the picture, that the person who gave them to you (intelligently) planted them in something that doesn't retain a ton of water. If they are outdoors getting a lot of sun those pots will be drying themselves out pretty fast assuming that they are planted in an appropriate medium. Wallet fucked around with this message at 15:00 on Dec 29, 2020 |
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Dec 29, 2020 14:48
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Ok Comboomer posted:Always best practice to let a plant acclimate as best as possible to a new setting before putting it through the stress of a repot. Not always possible or necessary (and lord knows I’ve repotted plenty of plants straight after getting them home) but it’s advisable. I dunno, I pull everything out of the pot to check it out no matter what it is, and with succulents I repot everything into a gritty mix anyway. I don't find repotting to be terribly stressful for most plants if you are careful not to do undue violence to their roots. Obviously some plants are a lot more sensitive than others but Crassula is pretty hearty. Ok Comboomer posted:In any case, I don’t think the pot on the left looks particularly small for the plant that’s in it. It’ll need a repotting eventually but I imagine it’s probably got a bit of time left, unless it was like heavily pruned back, or something of that nature, and the leaves are giving an inaccurate sense of what’s below ground. The one on the left looks like it may have been trimmed based on the thickness and apparent age of the stem which is why I'd check it out, but who can tell from a photo.
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Dec 29, 2020 17:25
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Earth posted:Could I just leave them in a pot and move the pot to the garage? I'm in zone 6 and winters are usually pretty mild. The danger when you put them in a warm place with no sun is that they're going to want to rot if there's any moisture. You probably don't want to leave them in the pots—people usually dig them up, dry them out, and then put them in bags.
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Jan 11, 2021 23:04
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Ok Comboomer posted:holy poo poo wash your hands after repotting euphorbias I got some on my skin repotting some ingens that poked each other while I was putting them in place and it made my skin burn for hours. I can only imagine it in your eyes. Wallet fucked around with this message at 23:44 on Jan 13, 2021 |
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Jan 13, 2021 23:07
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Ok Comboomer posted:That means I gotta buy a third crested for material because I ain’t cutting up either of the two perfect babies I have at home.....guys I have 33 individual Euphorbia plants across four or maybe five species, I have a problem. I have a strict one pot per genus rule for indoor plants (though some of the pots have three or four species in them) so I only have the ingens indoors. There's some nice ones that are cool with being cold though: I planted four or five varieties in the garden last year that all seem to be doing well even with it snowing here in zone 6. I think the myrsinites is the only one that's succulent though—I'm hoping they'll fill out next year.
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Jan 14, 2021 22:54
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Ok Comboomer posted:I’m in New England, every euphorbia I’ve had that got right cold immediately died and turned to jelly All of the ones in my garden currently are evergreen—it was snowing two days ago and they all look reasonably contented other than the weight of the snow crushing a few branches: Euphorbia myrsinites (hardy to zone 5) Euphorbia amygdaloides var. robbiae (zones 6-9) Euphorbia nothowlee (zones 6-9) Euphorbia x martinii 'Ascot Rainbow' (zones 6-11) Ok Comboomer posted:Also lmao at “one pot per genus” I have like 90 pots, though most are 4” or smaller Wallet fucked around with this message at 23:32 on Jan 15, 2021 |
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Jan 15, 2021 23:26
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Ok Comboomer posted:Euphorbiaceae is a big, diverse bunch- including spurges, a variety of cactus-like succulent trees, crotons, poinsettias, and so forth. Really cool lineage of plants. That's the best part about them. Myrsinites is a legit succulent, though. I don't think any of the other succulent varieties would be chill outside in New England. I think half of the parentage of x martini might be too? Wallet fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Jan 16, 2021 |
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Jan 16, 2021 01:29
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Crusader posted:my ambition is transfer cuttings to new pots and just overgrow my apartment with the devil's ivy, but i dunno how realistic that is It's pretty realistic. I have one that is growing up the wall in my hallway that gets a paltry amount of light from an east-facing window that it is near but not in front of. It still grows faster than anything else in my house except maybe the papyrus in my living room (which is in a south-facing window with grow lights above it). I took some cuttings off the pothos about a month ago because it was dragging along the floor and one of the vines I took a cutting off of has already made it back down.
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Jan 22, 2021 23:42
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Cowwan posted:I have a bunch of yard plants that may need to become houseplants in the next few months. Things I would want to keep include: Hibiscuses, Roses (double knock out if it matters), and a bunch of herbs (basil, oregano, rosemary). All of these are pretty small (nothing more than two feet tall), and they're already living on containers. How reasonable would it be to keep these inside? How much lighting am I going to need for them? What other things am I probably going to do wrong? If they're already in containers you can probably do this, just be careful about watering (with less light they will need less water). I think you may have difficulty giving the roses enough light to keep them happy unless you have somewhere intensely sunny to put them. Hibiscus does fine even in shade IIRC but they won't flower if they don't get enough light.
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Jan 24, 2021 22:29
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Big camellia post-it’s prime camellia season right now and it’s so neat to see them doing great in otherwise neglected yards all around town. Japanese magnolias, red maples, and oriental cherries are all starting to bloom, so I guess it’s spring-ish now. We just got 8 inches of snow. I envy your spring and your camellias.
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Feb 2, 2021 18:29
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ZombieCrew posted:I have a few houseplants in my kitchen. They do ok, but they dont really get any natural light because my windows have a UV coating(no idea if it works). I have a flourescent light that i leave on 100% of the time. Is that enough light for an indoor succulent garden if i wanted to start one? When you're buying or evaluating a grow light you'll want to look for the PAR/PPF/PPFD, though a lot of companies misuse these acronyms in ways that make it extra confusing. A quick primer based on my understanding (which could be wrong—someone please correct me): PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density) measures how much plant-usable light actually reaches a plant's surface at a given distance away from the fixture in μMol/m2/s (micromoles per square meter per second). PAR (Photosynthetically Active Radiation) is actually just the wavelengths of light that are plant-usable but companies often report PPFD as PAR—if you see PAR in μMol/m2/s that's what it is. PPF (Photosynthetic Photon Flux) is measuring the total PAR/PPFD of a fixture in μMol/s, which you'd mostly only be interested in for energy efficiency reasons. Knowing a fixture has 113.3 PPFD at 8 inches away is kind of useless without some context. In the outdoors where plants normally grow full (summer) sun at noon is somewhere in the 800-1500 PAR range, and shade is in the 500-900 range. Obviously there's some ramp up/down for the sun that doesn't exist with a grow light. Nosre posted:You also might need to set up a timer instead, because I'm not sure if they would appreciate 100% light uptime Yeah, they're not going to love that. Plants need to rest too! 14 hours a day is usually what I see recommended, which has worked in my experience. You can get outlet timers really cheap (like, 5$ a pop or something?) on Amazon or wherever. Wallet fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Feb 3, 2021 |
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Feb 3, 2021 19:04
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Jhet posted:But... I’ve used generic LED shop lights in the daylight spectrum for a few years now. They don’t grow quite as well as they might with special LED grow lights, but I’ve had a jungle of peppers in my basement since September. I have them set to 12h cycle right now, and I could have made it shorter, but I wanted to eat them. If it works it works  . I've had a bunch of the GE bulbs in my living room for a while and they seem to work well but they are $$$.I just put a bunch of much less expensive Barrina LEDs (the smaller ones without the reflectors) in some shelf things I just finished building to hold more plants, but I dunno if they'll work for poo poo yet. Here's hoping.
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Feb 3, 2021 23:29
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Oil of Paris posted:Plant Delights open house is around the corner too and that’ll be fun; they’ve got some cool new poo poo at *somewhat* decent prices for once, like a badass tree dahlia (Dahlia imperialis) that will work out perfectly for the front garden, which doesn’t get owned by wildlife on the reg  ) in it that my mother is really excited about. Every time I go on their site they've got new cool poo poo—I can only imagine how amazing their greenhouses are. I'm guessing you've never ordered from Pine Knot via mail given you're close to them? I only have one little patch of my yard that's shade instead of full sun and I was thinking about getting some Hellebores from them since I can't talk myself into paying anyone else's prices. Also crossposting these new plant shelf things from the woodworking thread that I just finished so that I'll have more room to grow things in the frozen wintery shithole that is currently the Northeast.  Looking forward to hiding all of the flaws in my woodworking by filling them up with plants. Wallet fucked around with this message at 16:22 on Feb 4, 2021 |
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Feb 4, 2021 16:18
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Oil of Paris posted:Oh hell yeah, the sikokianum? I wanted two of the regular kind but they’re already sold out smfh Those are them, yeah. They apparently don't offset and you need two if you want them to seed  . She lives up in the woods and she's been growing some of the native species, hopefully they'll like it there. Also had to order some of this weird Orostachys hybrid.
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Feb 5, 2021 01:30
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the fart question posted:
I was just thinking about this plant and wondering what happened to it yesterday. I'd try to gently clean that off with hydrogen peroxide (3%) or Dr. Bronner's and then try to make sure that spot stays nice and dry. The darker, moist looking area around the mold/fungus is a lot more worrying to me than the mold itself. If that bit is getting mushy I would personally be tempted to cut it back further, despite the new growth, because with the size of that Crassula letting rot get into it is a much bigger risk to it than removing that bit of new growth. Stringent posted:I've got this Japanese maple (don't know which variety it has red leaves) that has had a bad time of it. The twigs at the top are healthy and producing leaves, but as you can see there's a huge length of trunk with no branches. I'm planning on keeping the tree potted so I'd like to get some branches growing further down the trunk if at all possible. Can anyone point me in the direction of what techniques I'd need to go about doing this? I assume I'll need to graft some of the twigs up top to the trunk, but I've never done anything like that and don't know what I should be researching how to do. The folks in the Bonsai thread can probably point you in the right direction.
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Feb 9, 2021 14:56
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Now that I finished my shelves and I have somewhere to put them with appropriate light I've finally been picking up some of the succulents I've been wanting for a while. I always take pictures when I get in a new plant so I can keep track of how it's doing and this thread is light on pictures in the winter so here's some new arrivals. Some of them are looking a little disheveled from living in a dark box for longer than expected—USPS is really poo poo lately. Thirsty Curio citriformus (with titty cactus cameo)  I know there were some Haworthia fans in here. I picked up this two-headed 'Fat Albert' to qualify for free shipping on another order and he showed up a lot more chonky than I was expecting.  A slightly disheveled Selcorebutia rauschii.  This Gymnocalycium stenopleurum had a bud on it but it broke off in shipping  . Aloinopsis schoonesii.  These Obregonia denegrii arrived impressively well rooted.  My phone's camera can just barely handle how small this Monanthes polyphylla is.  These weird looking goobers are Adromischus marianiae 'Herrei' f. green. Wallet fucked around with this message at 16:43 on Feb 11, 2021 |
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Feb 11, 2021 16:40
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Hirayuki posted:I'm not a succulents person, but I really like the way you've potted all of these. It's pleasingly uniform and really attractive. Thanks! Most of the plants in my living room are in white ceramic. Bigger pots are from wherever, but most of the small ones are from Potey because I can afford them and their pots are decent (they have more variety on Amazon than their own website for some reason). Ok Comboomer posted:lol 90% of my poo poo goes into $0.50-5.00 terra cotta if it doesn’t go into plastic Whatever floats your boat. Wallet fucked around with this message at 00:38 on Feb 12, 2021 |
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Feb 12, 2021 00:19
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Ok Comboomer posted:When people say that crassula are some of the easiest plants that you can keep it's not to shame people into not asking questions, it's to get you to not overthink them too much. You have to work pretty hard to kill a big jade like that by accident (except by loving it to death). A couple of times a month during the growing season is a good rule of thumb but it's really dependent on what it's planted in, the conditions in your house, and how much light it gets (water needs are directly proportional to how much light a plant gets). Most succulents are either summer or winter dormant depending on the conditions in their native range—Crassula IIRC are summer dormant so most of their growth occurs in fall/winter/spring. You don't need to be terribly concerned about it, but if those plants have been in those pots for a long time realize that the only nutrients they will get are those you give them. A lot of succulents are sensitive to fertilization so if you decide to fertilize during the growing season you should stick with an organic fertilizer that's formulated for succulents/cacti—Espoma makes one that's widely available. IMO 90% of keeping plants alive is spending time with them and paying attention to what they're doing so that you can learn to recognize when they need water or notice other problems like pests before they have a chance to do a lot of damage. Ok Comboomer posted:I also love the uniform pot look but went with terra cotta due to utility and cost. It was more of a comment on my own cheapness/destitution than a dig at you Ain't nothing wrong with terracotta. suck my woke dick posted:I moved the Aerangis into crates with sphagnum in the bottom to raise humidity. Good: they're all growing happily, new roots are covering everything in sight. Bad: two came from the shop with fungal infections, and oh boy do the fungi love taking over orchids with water pooling on the leaves for hours after the daily watering. Let's see if inverting the things after applying hydrogen peroxide and fungicide will solve the issue. How's the air flow? Constant high humidity and moisture without good air flow is going to be a fungus magnet. As Comboomer said, cinnamon is supposedly an effective fungicide for orchids (though a lot of cinnamon is sold mixed with sugar which could cause some weird poo poo). Neem oil is also effective at smothering fungal spores (and it sticks around for a while) but some plants are sensitive to it. The internet seems to suggest Phalaenopsis, at least, deal with it fine. If you get some you should be careful to pay attention to exactly what you're buying; some places sell neem oil pre-mixed with various insecticides which is probably not what you want. Wallet fucked around with this message at 15:17 on Feb 12, 2021 |
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Feb 12, 2021 14:40
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Ok Comboomer posted:anybody here have any moon cactus or are they simply too trashy and common to be popular with people who know the names of their plants? You mean the bright red/yellow/pink jobbers they graft because they don't have any chlorophyll? Those are mutant Gymnocalycium mihanovichii—if you look around there are some that have less intense colors or have the bright red in patches rather than universally that don't have to be grafted.   I posted a Gymnocalycium stenopleurum I just got earlier on the page which should also be a pretty strong red/purple when it's less pissed off about being shipped in a box. There's also a number of people that seem to be importing crested Gymnocalycium baldianum which are pretty cool if you're into that kind of thing.  I pretty much ignore what is or isn't popular and just grow what I like (which is easier because I'm not even sure what's popular). There's enough cool Euphorbia out there to keep yourself busy for a lifetime, though: these motherfuckers have >100 species of succulent Euphorbia listed. Someone is selling an insane cristate lactea on Etsy if you have $600 burning a hole in your pocket.  Wallet fucked around with this message at 14:47 on Feb 15, 2021 |
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Feb 15, 2021 14:32
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Ok Comboomer posted:oh, I'm aware of how they work--it's the cheap grafted ones I was talking about. I'd love some WT and variegated Gymno (and will probably get some at some point, let's be honest) but unless you come across one in person for the right price they all seem really expensive and in demand. I'm not really interested in spending $60 on a blind-draw 2" plant with a disappointing stripe of yellow in it yet, Mr. Etsy Seller, thank you very much. Yeah, I avoid buying plants that small in general because shipping seems to be particularly hard on them, and I definitely wouldn't do it blind. I usually just wait it out until I can find an exact or find it in stock at a seller I have enough experience with to know they won't send me dogshit. There aren't a lot of places to get succulents around here in person unless you're after the common stuff every nursery has. Ok Comboomer posted:Mine aren't remotely red yet, but I hope they pull through and multiply, or else I'm going to wind up buying a gallon pot in the summer, most likely. I try not to torment myself with pictures of perfectly colored up sun stressed succulents. Most of them are from people who live somewhere they can keep their succulents outdoors which is clearly cheating. The tirucalli don't look too bad, though, maybe just a little tired of winter.
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Feb 16, 2021 02:10
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mediaphage posted:if you're talking about the pigments that form in ridiculo light, you can pretty easily do that with a simple led strip that's placed close to your plants. pretty much all of our succulents have colouring on them to one degree or another for that reason. Eh, sort of. Getting good sun stress coloration isn't always that easy.
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Feb 16, 2021 14:26
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mediaphage posted:perhaps i am misunderstanding the term. for example here’s what i’m talking about : Generally the non-green colors on succulents come from sun stress. You can get some of it by pushing enough light but generally it's hard to get the full vibrancy that way that you can get by growing stuff outdoors in e.g. California without blinding yourself.
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Feb 16, 2021 22:39
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Ok Comboomer posted:gotta get a grow tent + some high discharge lights if you want that perfect midsummer sun stress in winter Basically, but what am I bothering for if I can't even see the plants?
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Feb 17, 2021 00:06
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mediaphage posted:i don’t think you’re going to get much redder colours than that first succulent i posted, at least in that species. and it’s not a function of only how much light a light source puts out, it’s also about how close you can put the plant to the light source. those plants are in our dining room and we’re hardly blinded. I'm not sure I get your point. You can either put it closer or get a stronger grow light, those accomplish the same thing. You need some serious grow lights if you want to hit full summer sun levels of light without having the lights basically touching your plants. E.g. 10-15 of these or these at 8 inches away. One of these at 8 inches will get you close, but because of the beam angle you're going to need to set up one per plant pretty much. Some Schlumbergera can get to a really deep, rich maroon with enough light, and you can accomplish that without a ton of trouble with grow lights, but Schlumbergera are mostly epiphytic cacti that grow in shaded environments with high humidity. Accomplishing the same thing with, as an example, the Euphorbia tirucalli that comboomer was talking about is going to be a lot more difficult as they are adapted to growing in full tropical sun.
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Feb 17, 2021 00:29
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mediaphage posted:your point was that it's functionally impossible to do this sort of thing at all at home without blinding yourself. i don't think that's true. i grow a lot of tropical plants, some succulents among them (they're mostly my SO's bag). My point was that you can't match the intensity of full sun without putting the lights very close or using intense lights, not that it's impossible to do so.
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Feb 17, 2021 14:19
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mediaphage posted:i never said that, you took umbrage at my suggestion that you can sun stress plants indoors. but whatever. My original point was just that people growing succulents outdoors and getting perfect sun stress coloration in California or Florida are clearly cheating and using those pictures as the standard against which to measure succulents being grown indoors in the Northeast is silly. I'm not sure we're arguing about anything here—you can sun stress plants indoors, it's not always easy for all plants. I like your seed spreadsheet. I have an unhealthy spreadsheet addiction and I can't stop putting things in spreadsheets. Outdoor plants...  Indoor plants...  They all go in a spreadsheet somewhere.
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Feb 17, 2021 15:16
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Babby Satan posted:You know, I never thought that the white pebbles might be affecting the drainage. Afaik they don't because the water does still seep down but I did put some smaller gravel-esque pebbles on the bottom of the pot too. But you make a really good point! I'll take the top ones out and see what happens. Thanks for the tip! The brown doesn't look terribly concerning to me—it's not unlikely that it's an adjustment to more light and a bunch of Aloes get that kind of brown in them. As far as the top dressing goes you really want something porous like pumice or even pearlite that lets the soil underneath it breathe and doesn't retain water. It's not a bad idea with a water sensitive plant like that that's flopping over onto the top of the medium. I know people have been doing it forever but putting gravel on the bottom of a pot isn't a great idea. It's fine if you have a very freely draining soil with very limited organics but with anything that retains water you're likely to create a perched water table which does the opposite of what you're intending. There's a good illustration of this here (I'm sure there's better ones, that's just the first that popped up with pictures on Google). RickRogers posted:I have often tried and failed to kill aloe, even by over watering. You can definitely do it. The difficulty is going to partially depend on what you're planting it in, what species, and what the conditions are like in your house. The home depot here always has a shitload of Aloe in the garden section and as far as I can tell they manage to give them all root rot within a week or so of their arrival. subpar anachronism posted:I think I have your aloe's twin and its identity has been tripping me up for years (got it from a friend's grandma). No matter how much sun it gets it grows long and viney instead of upright. juvenna and zanzibarica both look too thicc to be correct to me. This one has lived in both west and south windows and under grow lights. I would also lose the topdressing though. It doesn't look like any juvenna I've ever seen. People really like to hybridize Aloes for whatever reason so it could be almost anything, but it kind of looks like ankoberensis or bakeri. Wallet fucked around with this message at 01:09 on Feb 22, 2021 |
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Feb 22, 2021 00:39
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Mr_Chicken posted:The first is this long fella, I want to just repot him - I think he's an aloe of some sort? Mr_Chicken posted:The second is an identification question - we have this extremely long lad and... No idea what it is. It doesn't seem right that he's growing with no support but really no idea. Any thoughts? Just on wtf it is and then if there's any obvious care needed. Mr_Chicken posted:Lastly we have this big Gasteraloe "Green Ice" - it obviously needs repotting and I was going to switch it to a nicer mix (it's just multipurpose at the mo) but I also wondered about cultivating some babies from it? Is that wise? Does it look healthy enough? It flowered once but never again and ive had it for about 6 years I think. You can certainly try to vegetatively propagate it—it looks like it's doing just fine and one or two leaves isn't likely to cause major problems. Some (most?) Gasteraloes will produce offsets eventually that you can just pop off once they have enough roots to sustain themselves.
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Feb 24, 2021 21:20
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Babby Satan posted:Anybody got any insights into why my 8 year old pothos stopped growing? I've trimmed it and moved it to a smaller pot because as I understand it, if the pot is too big the plant can't get enough nutrients from the soil(?) I'm also attempting to water propagate some vines in a long term attempt to get it back to its previous bushiness but the mother plant isn't looking better after the trimming. Does it look fine but it's just not growing or does it also not look super happy? My pothos decides to cull leaves every few months but then they grow right back. Did you repot it in new soil or did you use the old soil and, if old soil, when's the last time you fertilized it? Wallet fucked around with this message at 17:30 on Feb 25, 2021 |
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Feb 25, 2021 17:24
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vonnegutt posted:A reference I saw said to fertilize my spider plants every 2 weeks (!) which seemed like a recipe for nitrogen poisoning to me, but maybe it's some sort of extra dilute fertilizer? Keep in mind that the people who write fertilizer packaging are also the people who sell fertilizer. They almost always tell you to use fertilizer far more often than you need to. Similarly people who grow plants for a living (nurseries etc) are going to fertilize a lot more than you need or want to for your houseplants. If you're using liquid fertilizer or fertilizer that gets mixed into water it's (IMO) worth buying organic if only because some plants are sensitive and your chances of accidentally burning the poo poo out of them are lower with an organic fertilizer. Your jade, in particular, shouldn't need much fertilizing at all but if you are going to fertilize it I'd go with half (or less) of the strength that e.g. Miracle-Gro puts on the package. There's also a lot of fertilizers that don't get mixed into water and last a lot longer if you don't want to have to gently caress with it. Osmocote is cheap and an application lasts ~6 months, there's also a bunch different kinds of spikes available these days. Wallet fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Feb 26, 2021 |
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Feb 26, 2021 21:46
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Oil of Paris posted:I bought 18 hellebores (for cheap!) two cyclamen, an epimedium, and a trillium at the hellebore festival, total only like $100. Smaller than I thought it would be but got to talk to the owner for awhile. BUT bc the weather has been so heinous down here almost nothing in the gardens was blooming so no baller pics unfortunately. Oil of Paris posted:I think I’m going to go insane soon if this endless loving rain doesn’t stop I've been trying to keep myself busy indoors. I spent some time over the last week figuring out how to transfer text from a laser printer onto wood so I could use a bunch of the scrap I have sitting around to make little plant labels. I know what they all are so I'm not sure what the real point of having plant labels is, but there's something about it I find satisfying.  The only thing I don't like about the new plant lights I put in is that they make it hard to take pictures that don't look like poo poo because the LEDs cause banding. They also make everything pink but that's easier to address. Ignore the thirsty looking Gymnocalicium in the background—he's adjusting . Also this cute little Mammilaria prolifera is flowering and so are some of my Haworthia, so spring must be coming. Nosre posted:That looks great. How many cuttings is it? I've got some that are at least a year old in a jar, but the tops never grow much so they look thin (unless you add a bunch, I imagine) Wallet fucked around with this message at 15:30 on Feb 27, 2021 |
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Feb 27, 2021 15:04
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Oil of Paris posted:Hell yeah, those little labels look awesome. I had a greedy dream to build a rock garden in front of property where it gets full sun from dusk until dawn, but of course that plan fell victim to the rain. Now I’m instead fantasizing about turning this lovely little deck we never use into a sunroom >:] I'm just praying that the rock garden I already planted doesn't turn into a rot farm. Everything being frozen doesn't worry me that much but all of the raining and melting better not kill all of my plants. Most of them seem to have done okay now that the snow has melted enough to see them (I had to pluck a few heads that had gone to rot off my sempervivums) but I hate waiting for spring to find out what the damage is. A few things that are supposed to be evergreen aren't (my cute little orostachys is all browned out) but I'm hoping they'll come back. I wouldn't actually pay that much for something that gets planted outside (well, except trees I guess) because a vole or something would eat it and I'd lose my mind, they sure are pretty though. I have spent that much on some indoor plants because I can't help myself when it comes to weird cacti. In indoor news I bought an Avonia that USPS lost for like a week and then it arrived in a 2.5" pot (which is substantially smaller than it was supposed to be). I genuinely don't understand why people even ship plants that small—they really don't seem to like it so I don't buy them. Now I have to spend the next three to six months babying it to try and keep it alive until it inevitably withers away and dies because plants that small should not be shipped, especially bare root.
Wallet fucked around with this message at 15:28 on Mar 2, 2021 |
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Mar 2, 2021 15:15
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Oil of Paris posted:wallet, I think I’m going to risk it and put down a bunch of permatill and pine bark into mounds out front, I think that’s the best way to defray drainage issue: by keeping them as far from the real ground as possible lol. Permatill is insanely expensive so I’m going to try to negotiate with the guy or something first lol Do you have clay soil?  I've got sandy loam so I didn't have to go super hard on expensive amendments but it's also quite a bit colder here I think than where you are. I went with pea gravel instead of bark and I didn't do any major mounding but I don't think that would work very well in clay. For the price, especially if you're doing mounds, I'd be tempted to just mix (fine) pine bark and gravel together instead of loving around with permatill.I stumbled upon a succulent nursery in Denver that grows a decent variety of cold hearty stuff I haven't seen readily available elsewhere that I'm excited to give a shot once it warms up. Wallet fucked around with this message at 14:48 on Mar 3, 2021 |
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Mar 3, 2021 14:16
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Ok Comboomer posted:I really wish the trend of gluing fake flowers on cacti would die out already This poo poo is the weirdest—they had cacti with glittery poo poo all over them at the Depot when I was there around Christmas. I'm not sure why you wouldn't just get a plastic plant if you actually wanted fake flowers. I wonder if you could get the glue off by going at it (very carefully) with a heat gun or something.
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Mar 3, 2021 14:39
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Oil of Paris posted:what in the world, I have not seen this before. Buy a cactus, get a free cat toy lol. Trashy I know Jim Putnam has talked a lot about amending his Carolina clay by mixing pine bark into it year after year, but I imagine it would take a long time (perhaps forever) to get to a level of drainage that would accommodate succulents. I guess it's mounds or bust. Are you going to try to grow actual cacti or just other stuff? Cacti seem super sensitive in my experience relatively to stuff like Yucca, Hesperaloe, succulent Euphorbia, and of course Sedum/Hylotelephium. You're just on the cusp of a lot of rad Agave I wish I could grow here, as well—pre-requesting pictures of what you come up with. Wallet fucked around with this message at 15:10 on Mar 4, 2021 |
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Mar 4, 2021 14:56
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Hirayuki posted:Hmm, I can picture something like that--the built-in drainage insert, but sold separately--but I can't immediately find it. I don't really like the semi-paper ones/coffee-filter ones like the first ones you linked very much as I don't trust them to remain permeable over time based on past experience. I've been making my way through a package of these ones which work well and aren't super expensive.
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Mar 9, 2021 02:16
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