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NotJustANumber99 posted:I have! and like you say it seems really cool. Like I dunno america or scandinavia or something used to do it... but I think it kind of sucked. Not in the good way. Our house (in Canada) came with built-in vacuum, as did the place we rented before buying. They're way more common over here, with the vast majority of houses being timber-frame. It's... kind of good? Good to have the sweep point in the kitchen where you just kick a little switch thing and a big hole/tray thing opens up and sucks whatever you sweep into it away. As for using it to vacuum the house it's... fine. But ultimately the attachment thing (as in, the bit that goes on the end of the hose, with a motor with brushes on) broke in our rented house and the landlord couldn't be arsed to replace it so we bought a dyson battery vac and we just use that instead in our house now. It's easier than having to drag a big hose all over the place. We spoke to some tradesmen who came to our house (can't even remember what for) and they said that they take them out for people quite often, because people don't use them now there are good battery vacs. Also I don't know if you're up to present time yet but if you haven't bought your bifold doors (or doors or windows) yet you can DM me and I can tell you some stuff about them if you have any questions.
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Jul 25, 2022 19:24
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So the OP knows me from the UKMT but for anybody who doesn't, I used to work for a timber window/door/conservatory (that's a sunroom or a glasshouse or a plant room (lol) for Americans) manufacturer in the UK, for like, 17 years. I've certainly known builders to get the form (that's what those holdout things they use to build around are called, or sometimes "formers" but I think that's grammatically incorrect) sizes wrong but that's because they typically just build them from wood on site to suit each frame. You'd liiiiiike to think that if they have welded metal ones they'll have used them on other sites before and that they actually will be to the correct sizes but who knows. The difference between builds where they're on top of things and everything goes smoothly, and ones where everything goes horribly wrong at every stage, in my experience, is having a good site/project manager for the build. I've been out to measure window/door openings etc. for customers at various stages of built properties, from literally just one brick course above ground level, to buildings that are 90% finished, and I could usually tell fairly accurately how smoothly the window installation was going to go by how much of a fuckwit the site manager seemed to be. Weirdly, thinking back on it, two of the best I ever worked with were for two unrelated projects for two very famous (again completely unrelated) British sports personalities (didn't get to meet either of them, sadly) - I guess just because they could afford to hire the best people to build their houses. Obviously it's too late for the OP but my advice for any other self-build would be to use a professional project manager. Apparently it can cost ~5% of your total build cost but I'd bet you they'd save you at least that much in terms of avoiding cost overruns etc.
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Jul 26, 2022 04:02
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I never thought I'd look forward to posts by NJaN99.
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Aug 4, 2022 18:02
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Just Winging It posted:I know gascrete/aircrete blocks have somewhat of a load-bearing capacity, but not that much and I've only seen them used for internal, non-structural walls and such where especially the sound-insulating qualities are a nice thing to have. quote:As per standards published in 2003 by ASTM, an international building standards non-profit, all concrete blocks must support at least 1,700 pounds of weight per square inch (PSI). So quite a bit really, bearing in mind that's the minimum. Apparently clay bricks are ~3000 PSI and standard "Type N" mortar for external use with bricks is 750 PSI. Yeah they're crumbly if you ever have to drill through them, and they'll break into fine dust if you put a hammer near them, but for the type of loading they're put under, they're more than adequate.
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Aug 5, 2022 20:37
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I've been working on insulating my loft here in Canada recently. I have an asphalt shingle roof which is nailed on from above. The loft has low headspace, and so I've scratched my back fairly badly and impaled my elbow, and mildly scratched my head at least once on nails. I do not like nails.
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Aug 10, 2022 05:58
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His Divine Shadow posted:I dunno the relevance to anything, but as I was cooking dinner I took the frying pan out of the oven to move things about before returning it, I put the pan down on the cooktop and there was a pot of boiling potatoes next to it. Well as I lean in close with my face and spatula, a hot drop of water flies out of the pot and strikes my hand. Bam! Involuntary reflex and my arm pulls away and I hit myself in the face, hard. While still dazed and shocked from that, I grab the oven hot frying pan with my bare hand. I remember the first time I used my new cast iron pan, the first one I'd got. I'd literally said to myself outloud before using it "Right, don't grab the handle without a glove or a towel, it's going to be super hot". Fully grabbed it 10 mins later barehanded and burnt the poo poo out of three fingers and my palm.
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Aug 10, 2022 18:43
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When you say "All the car batteries" have gone, do you mean like, they emptied out the battery packs on the tesla?
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Aug 12, 2022 00:59
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Can confirm. I'm glad you had a good time banging and pegging and holding onto each other's legs.
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Aug 20, 2022 04:59
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Well a standard UK house brick is just under 1.9L in volume so to match a £2 coin for cost density it'd have to cost you £239.20 to lay each brick, or £1192 per breezeblock.
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Aug 22, 2022 02:39
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Shuco are good I think. rear end I'd have had a 1+3 configuration for a traffic door on one of the sets, though.
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Aug 24, 2022 00:57
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lamfo
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Sep 7, 2022 01:12
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BTW you might actually be able to swap the hinges out on those windows and have them work more normally and/or be suitable for egress.
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Sep 7, 2022 15:33
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I can talk you through it even but you might need to buy a few different hinges to try, to find one where the opening geometry works, If it's wrong it can cause the windows to bind at the edges when they're opening. You'll need something like these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/23079975...%3ABFBMxt-2leNg and I can help you figure out what you need, if you want to try it.
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Sep 7, 2022 20:05
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Yeah no worries I had a look but it seems he's sorted it? I posted in their thread anyway. But yeah, no idea why they sold you this as a default. I worked for a window/door company in the UK for like 17 years and I don't recall ever seeing hinges that opened like this, other than ones which then have buttons to slide them out to the edges from there. What company is it / what window system? AFAIK although there are like, thousands of companies that'll sell you aluminium or plastic windows in the UK, there are only really a handful of systems manufacturers (i.e. the people who make the plastic/alu extrusions and stuff and sell them to others to make them into windows). If you can work that out I might be able to work out exactly what hinges will work and also why they would fit these in the first place.
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Sep 8, 2022 19:28
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NotJustANumber99 posted:They are all Schüco windows, specifically I think Schüco Window System AWS 70 SC. Yeah that's hosed, the screws sticking out I mean. The hinges are sooort of standard in that most non-egress hinges slide the sash somewhat to the middle of the opening, but what you've got is like, an extreme example. Good news though in some senses: Those hinges are very standard, plus the fact that they're fitted all the way at the outside edge of the frame means that you'll have fewer issues trying to replace them (means the hinges are less likely to bind on the corner when you open them). You could try giving Shuco a call, but I would suspect that maybe they won't deal with non-trade stuff. Give Coastal Hardware https://www.coastal-group.com or Quest Hardware https://www.questhardware.co.uk a ring. They're both good companies, which sell to the public, who won't rip you off, and who in all of my experiences have been very knowledgeable and properly helpful with all sorts of queries. Quest particularly I dealt with for like, 15 years. They also ship stuff wherever. We were buying stuff for wooden windows but modern wooden windows use a lot/all the same stuff as UPVC and aluminium. They'll call those hinges "side-hung friction hinges" or "friction stays". Tell them you've got side-opening Shuco windows and you want to switch them from standard to egress hinges, but the manufacturer isn't interested in helping you so you're doing it yourself and you need help finding the right hinges. I'm pretty sure they're a 13mm stack height (this is essentially the gap between the frame and the window sash when it's closed), which they'll need to know. They also look like "standard" hinges as opposed to "heavy-duty" which are for heavier windows (like, really big ones or triple-glazed etc.). I think they both sell Cotswold hinges, but you might also get Securistyle Defender egress hinges. They'll do the same job but I think the geometry might differ a bit, which could affect if they catch at the hinge side when opening. Here's an illustration of what you're after: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JSL-7kSk5K4 though those ones are "easy-clean" which you presumably won't need since all your windows are at ground level. You may need special screws for the aluminium windows but they'll be able to tell you what you need and sell you some of them too. They'll probably ask you to measure the length of the hinges but they'll be able to talk you through that. They're probably 12" or 16". Also there's a helpful vid here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_6NXKdgE78 and one here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O6HGgtJ3kWk that should give you an idea of how to switch them over. The only thing is that the screw holes might be in different positions and you *may* need to play a bit with exactly where the sash part of the hinge is fixed onto the sash (i.e. where it's slid left to right). *Usually* though the screw nearest the hinge side of the window is in a consistent position so if you screw that one in first you'll be alright. If you don't want to gently caress about with it yourself a local chippy or window fitter will be able to help you switch them over. Jaded Burnout posted:No, if you look at the way the struts for the hinges are, the long strut is fixed too far along the window for that. It's constrained by design to open by sliding the black thing along so I reckon the only way out is replace the hinges. Yeah you're right here, there's no modifying those hinges.
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Sep 9, 2022 20:18
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Yeah if they're a Shuco approved installer, and you've complained to them and they've shrugged, go to shuco IMO.
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Sep 9, 2022 23:57
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£35k
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Sep 24, 2022 06:42
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You can get cold-climate air-source heat pumps that work down to -25°C. I've been looking into them as I'd need one here in Ottawa where it does actually get down below -20C. Quite expensive though, and ground-source pumps can be 25-50% more efficient in terms of energy usage. Still, we're looking at getting an ASHP in combination with solar which would cover near all of our electric usage (net, for the year) so there's not that much point in spending the extra for a GSHP - yes technically it would allow us to get a smaller solar setup but it's cheaper to have a slightly larger solar install than it is to make it a bit smaller and pay for GSHP. If we did get a GSHP it'd need a vertical loop for us, which means drilling deep into the ground which is expensive. The cost would probably be about $25k CAD for the ground loop install (not including the actual heat pump itself and installation), which is about the full cost of a solar install we're looking at, if I pay somebody else to do it all. WhatEvil fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Sep 26, 2022 |
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Sep 26, 2022 16:29
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His Divine Shadow posted:Mine was 1700€ installed, an ASHP that is rated down to -25, put on my garage. But when winter rolls around I sure am glad to have the ground exchange unit in the house. Yeah fair if you're looking at a mini-split for a small space it would be cheap but I'm looking at a whole-home ducted system (we already have the ducts for our furnace/AC as is common over here in Canada).
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Sep 26, 2022 20:27
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They're like rough stone effectively right (obviously they're fired clay but I mean the surface should be as grippy as stone) so shouldn't be that slippery... but they are at a 45° pitch so presumably you wouldn't be walking on that unaided anyway, right? I was up on my roof (albeit a lower portion with the eaves edge only at about 8' from the ground) earlier, walking around on asphalt shingles... and that feels dodgy enough, even though the asphalt is really grippy.
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Oct 19, 2022 06:01
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NotJustANumber99 posted:That was just to win an argument with Bobby. I'm not a real architect but I have a degree in it. Just caught up on the thread. Been loving the poetry. I must have missed you saying you're an architect before, but I had money on you being either an architect or some sort of related field after seeing that you owned a Saab. It's pretty much only architects who drive (drove, RIP Saab cars) them. It also makes perfect sense because all of the architects I've ever dealt with professionally have been good at drawing nice pictures of houses but had absolutely no clue at all when it came to any of the actual details, about anything.
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Feb 18, 2023 05:38
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Heh I know the guys at Coastal Hardware, and tons of people at Winkhaus. Gotta say I'm impressed with the door work - yeah you hosed it up, but even taking it on is impressive.
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Feb 22, 2023 06:34
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Phil Moscowitz posted:Actually building a house is amazing. Who cares about a few cock ups. I’m a little confused by the timeline of this thread so forgive me if you’ve already gone over this but— Never built a house but I've started finally doing some stuff to my house now, mainly because we had a roof leak through the junction of roof slope and an old unused chimney (which has since been removed by proper roofers). The leak meant that my kitchen ceiling got all soggy and I had to rip out a big chunk of plasterboard and replace it. So I did that, put new plasterboard in, taped it, mudded with quickset plaster and then skimmed the whole lot and.... it worked. Pretty well. I had to skim an area of about 7 feet square, to get it to all even out. Took me like 2 weeks of doing a little at a time, slow and steady but the end result was a success. A year later there are a couple of slight cracks showing in a couple of small places but I actually think they might be where the *original* tape was poo poo, not the stuff I did - maybe I should have taken off some of the original tape and redone it but I didn't see any of it get wet originally. IDK. In any case fixing it should be a small and fairly easy job. Anyway, point is, I was intimidated as poo poo starting off, especially with plastering a ceiling before ever having done a wall (which seems a lot easier) but I watched a few youtube videos and thought "ah gently caress it, if it goes too badly I'll just pay someone to come and fix it" and once you get over that mental hurdle everything becomes a lot easier. None of this poo poo is *actually* difficult, it's just knowing what you need to do to meet regs/best practice/not gently caress up. Finding the information and figuring out how to apply the different rules and stuff is the hardest part with most stuff. The work itself can be tiring, fiddly, generally unpleasant, but it's usually not difficult in terms of like, you have to have worked at it for years to be able to do a good job of it. I guess there are things that are like that, like uhhh proper stonemasonry? But mostly if you're building a fairly normal house, you can figure out most stuff yourself. Even if you have to scrap some stuff 'cause it's gone wrong and redo it, you'll probably save money over having someone else do it, and it's really satisfying to have done stuff yourself. Also just generally my DIY skills have been greatly helped by contractors in Canada (where I moved ~4 years ago, from the UK) being ridiculously expensive. Now I've done that job of plastering and that, I'm way more likely to look at other stuff in/around the house and say "yeah I'll have a go". I could see myself building a house if I had the money and time.
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Feb 25, 2023 06:34
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Slugworth posted:Oh yeah, for the record, I think OP gets an undue amount of poo poo, but he takes it well, and it's all in good fun. I'm impressed by the whole undertaking. If you'd seen his posting in other threads you probably wouldn't think it's an undue amount.
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Feb 25, 2023 17:52
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NotJustANumber99 posted:Front door. Hey you did it. Well done. You could have just pulled the weather-seal out of the frame while you were routing stuff - they're usually just a push-fit into a groove and can be removed and pushed back in again no problem. Leperflesh posted:when some aspiring lockpicker is flustered by the e-lock on these fancy doors, they'll just leave and not smash the huge pane of glass right next to the door and walk in to nick stuff According to the UK building regulations on security (Part Q) this actually is how home security works! The tests they do to certify your doors and windows is that you make a test door and they get some lad named Ross to have a go at it for 3 minutes with an assortment of small hand tools - a screwdriver, a (very small) crowbar, a piece of wire, a credit card... there's probably some more I'm forgetting. He's not allowed to break the glass and if he can't get in in 3 minutes your door passes that part of the test. To be fair they also do a "kick" test where they swing a big metal battering ram at it from a pre-defined height a number of times, and a "soft body" test where they swing a big punching bag thing at it from a higher height, to simulate a shoulder-barge... but yeah breaking the glass does not factor into the test. Oh and push tests where they load the door into a big metal frame and push on it in pre-defined points with a hydraulic ram. I sat in a lab for a week a couple of times while two guys did various tests on various of the products we made to get certified this way.
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Mar 3, 2023 03:55
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Yeah you should plumb hot water through it like one of those heated towel rails.
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Mar 4, 2023 02:58
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I used to think that the US-style of building houses (timber frame, forced-air heating) was poo poo, but since moving to Canada, I've come around to it. It seems much less intimidating to make modifications to your house with timber frame stuff, for one thing. You've got all cavities everywhere that you can cut into and gently caress around with easily. I even cut a hole fully through my house wall to install a catflap and it was really really easy. One bad thing about the American style though is that they view exterior finishes as like, perishable? IDK they do asphalt roofs here (like roofing felt, except rather than a continuous roll, they're separate tiles/shingles lapped over each other in the same way that slate/clay/whatever tiles are) and it's assumed that you'll just get your whole roof re-covered every 10-15 years which costs like $5-10k depending on how big your roof is. Similarly siding - most houses around where I am at least seem to have vinyl siding which is cheap as far as materials go, but also degrades and looks pretty shite after ~20 years. Again to replace that you're looking at $10-20k if you get a contractor to do it. I'd say "I don't understand" why they don't just like, make poo poo that'll last... but I think it's just to save builders money in the first instance of building the house. For any American reading who doesn't understand the alternatives, most houses in the UK have tile roofs (slate or clay) and brick or render exterior wall finishes (though aluminium insulated cladding panels and stuff are getting more common there - particularly for apartments etc.) and it's usually the case that a house gets built out of those things and then... you just don't worry about it ever. If your house is more than like, 80 years old you might have some bricks or mortar that have been damaged by frost but you just get a bloke to come around for a few hundred quid and fix it and then it'll be good for another 30 years or more, probably.
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Apr 20, 2023 18:56
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Failed Imagineer posted:Then of course there's the whole frost-line/basement-digging thing. I'm so jealous of parts of the US that have nice spacious unfinished basements, where I could record lovely hardcore tracks without the neighbours hearing Yeah 'cause I'm in Ottawa where we have like a 3.5ft frost line, pretty much everywhere has basements. I've got one with a 10ft ceiling (actually lower because of services - vents for the forced air heating mainly) and it rules. Got some gym equipment in there and the previous owner had a home cinema setup. We've still got the projector and screen he left us but we haven't hooked it up. Leperflesh posted:It is partly about cost and partly about the weather. Ehhhhh kind of. The weather of the UK isn't that different from large parts of the US. It's not uncommon for pretty much all of the UK to get a period of a week or two where it's about -5°C, and the same for 30+°C in the summer. I know that's different to the -36°C we saw recently in Ottawa but I don't actually think it makes that much difference to durability of external finishings? I'd like to see data I guess but I would have instinctively thought that you've got two main factors for temperature-based degradation which would be water freezing/thawing cycles and differential expansion/contraction. Freeze/thaw is gonna happen just the same in the UK, and any additional expansion/contraction because of a greater summer/winter temperature differential can be dealt with with different installation practices etc. mostly - though yeah point taken I guess this might affect render/stucco-type finishes more. That said, I do see stucco here in Ottawa, and some quick googling seems to suggest that in both Ottawa and in the UK that stucco/render has a lifespan of 30-50 years. Similarly, I have seen tile roofs, brick finishes etc. here in Ottawa so I would be surprised if they're not more commonly used here because they "won't hold up to conditions". I do also understand that slate roofs for example aren't really done in NA because there isn't such a ubiquitous supply of slate here as there is in the UK - at least that's what my wife says and she's a building scientist so I trust her. Granted, yeah, tornadoes aren't a thing in the UK, and large hail isn't very common at all... but isn't that also true for the vast majority of the US and Canada? Heavy snowfall isn't such a worry in the UK but nevertheless roof loading does have to account for the weight of 2 feet of snow, so it is considered.
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Apr 20, 2023 19:43
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Ratjaculation posted:Time to whip out my useless trivia, ahem, https://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/most-tornadoes-by-area ACKTSCHUALLY Like yeah OK but in terms of tornadoes causing consequential damage, I have never noticed one in the UK. I'm sure they have happened but I've never seen one or known anybody who's been affected by one. In Ottawa there was one like a year before we moved here and it wrecked tons of poo poo. A huge tree in my (now) house's garden got blown over, blocking the road, and the city told the then owner that he had to clear it within a day or get fined thousands of dollars for blocking the road.
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Apr 20, 2023 19:54
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Arsenic Lupin posted:When I lived in northern New England, before global warming had kicked into high gear, it was routine to go weeks without the temperature rising above 0 C. Nowhere in New England would -5C be considered significantly cold. Cold starts about -12C. In less-frigid parts of the US, it is common to go below -5C multiple times a winter, returning above freezing each time. -5C weather is not "a week or two", it is much of the winter. When I was interested in buying a terracotta roof dragon -- hey, I was young -- I could not use it in Massachusetts, because it would spall itself to death in a year or two. Same for terracotta pots. Yeah, I live in Ottawa, you don't have to tell me about cold. The point I'm making is that it gets below freezing and also there are many freeze-thaw cycles in a UK winter, and I don't think that going colder than freezing is gonna make much of a difference for most things?
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Apr 20, 2023 20:35
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Leperflesh posted:in the UK I think there's more push to infill and densify existing towns and cities rather than lots of open countryside to claim and gently caress up with ugly rear end 500 unit townhomes. Nah there's plenty of this goes on in the UK.
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Apr 21, 2023 06:00
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His Divine Shadow posted:Why is wood expensive in Canada of all places? Almost everything is expensive in Canada, and almost entirely without good reason. It's just a capitalist hellhole in a lot of ways. You might look at the economy of Canada, our natural resources, pick a thing and think "Well *surely* [x] is cheap there?" and no, no it isn't. There's basically nothing left that's any cheaper than the UK now - and the UK is already expensive compared to the rest of Europe. The only things off the top of my head that are no more expensive than the UK are small appliances, small power tools, electronics and computer hardware which are all broadly comparable. I guess gasoline is a bit cheaper here but it's been climbing steeply lately. I suppose we've also missed the meteoric energy price-rises that they've had in the UK but that was only ever because of massive self-sabotage. Fidelitious posted:Ah hello, I am also in Ottawa. Yeah fair, I guess the ducts do take up a shitload of space - particularly a pain the way they often do basements here which leaves you with a 6ft ceiling under where the ducts are. Got a bit lucky with my current house. Again with the roof thing, it just seems like yeah, the materials are about 4x the cost of asphalt, but from what I can tell, the actual labour required isn't really much more at all to install a metal roof over and above what it is to install or replace an asphalt one... but you still get charged like 4x more total anyway, because the contractors just think "Well they want to pay more, so let's charge what we can get away with" - which seems to be the case with any kind of contractor here. I'm thinking of installing my own metal roof even though I've never done any kind of roofing before. I've watched some youtube vids - it's not hard. Just have to make sure I don't fall off my roof and die.
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Apr 21, 2023 17:19
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Gasoline is like 1/2 the price. Hydro is way cheaper. Groceries are in general more expensive, but quality is much much higher. OK well according to this: https://www.numbeo.com/cost-of-living/compare_countries_result.jsp?country1=Canada&country2=United+Kingdom gasoline is currently 47% more expensive in the UK but I'm not sure if that's comparing the lowest grade in Canada to the lowest grade in the UK or what... but I think the low grade here is 89 octane and I think standard unleaded petrol in the UK is 95? Which is the high grade here? So I think it's not an apples-to-apples comparison. It has $1.78/l for the Canadian gas price but for 95 Octane here I typically see more like $2. Still, yes, more expensive in the UK but like I say, it has gone up a decent amount here recently. Groceries here are way more expensive and I wouldn't say they're any higher quality. I used to shop at Morrisons in the UK and their fruit and veg was shite - looked alright but would usually go mouldy within a few days. I shop at Food Basics here and fresh fruit and veg is like twice as expensive as it was at Morrisons, and it's about the same quality. Stuff in Metro is about the same quality as UK Tesco but I reckon the price differential there is probably more (Metro seem to charge like 30-50% more even on products that are the exact same size and brand). Also some stuff here like supermarket bread here is worse quality and more expensive than UK stuff. Used to be able to go to any supermarket in the UK and go to their in-store bakery section (which pretty much every single supermarket had - and even most of the smaller "corner shop" Tesco/Sainsbury's/Whatever stores had stuff that was baked the same day but probably offsite), and buy a really nice bakery-quality loaf of interesting bread with seeds or whatever for about £1.50. Very much not a thing you can do here. If you want similar here you'll seemingly pay about $7+. Some of those price comparisons in that numbeo link I posted seem about right and some seem way off. It says you can get 1kg of local cheese in Canada for $14.53 but I pay an average of about $5 for 200g of the cheapest stuff I can get, on sale, in Food Basics, which is the cheapest supermarket I've found (so ~$25/kg). If somebody has a hookup where I can pay $15/kg of good cheese here let me know and I'll spend thousands of dollars there. Still, like you, I wouldn't move back. You make a good point about the less openly, massively corrupt government here, and as a consequence daily life feels much less unrelentingly grim, even if it is expensive here. WhatEvil fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Apr 21, 2023 |
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Apr 21, 2023 20:24
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Leperflesh posted:also when you buy less of something it usually costs more per weight then when you buy more of it, that should not be hard to understand either lol Usually, yes, but weirdly never seems to be the case for cheese? Maybe if you're buying wholesale quantities of like 10+kg. Anyway it turns out I'm an idiot (shut up NJAN99) and the blocks of cheese I get are actually 400g, not 200g, so I guess ignore my cheese rant 'cause I was off by a factor of 2. Still, that is for like, the most basic cheddar here and it's literally the cheapest cheese I can find of any kind. Anything outside of that is definitely more expensive here. Just generally if you want the "nice" version of something here it's often like 3x the price of the basic version, whereas in the UK you could often get the "nice" version of something for like 30% more than the basic /standard version. WhatEvil fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Apr 21, 2023 |
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Apr 21, 2023 21:02
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Cat Hatter posted:How's marijuana prices in Canada? In Michigan it's literally half of what it was last year and a guy I know that grows it says without a warehouse you can't even grow it for cheaper than what dispensaries sell it for. Also apparently the stuff at dispensaries is basically crappy Walmart weed. Good, I think? I moved here a little after legalisation and I had never bought any before in the UK so difficult to compare. On the OCS (Ontario government cannabis store, online) you can get what is, I believe, regarded to be "very good" dry flower for about $10/g, buying 3.5g at a time. At the low end there are a bunch of varieties available for $3.50ish/g but I have no idea what they're like. Bear in mind prices are in CAD and include taxes.
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Apr 21, 2023 22:23
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Failed Imagineer posted:Threads hosed Ah I'm just getting back at NJAN for making GBS threads up the UKMT all the time.
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Apr 22, 2023 14:54
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El Mero Mero posted:you've got enough copper in those walls to create an L-shaped electromagnet. He's gonna get it all wired up, turn the lights and ethernet on and the electromagnetic force is gonna cause the two opposite ends of the L pull towards each other and rearrange the floor plan to a U-shape.
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May 26, 2023 20:21
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Duck and Cover posted:Fractal burning. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fractal_burning Both dangerous and kind of ugly. Yeah a guy I used to work with was watching loads of youtube videos about that stuff and was well into it. He had a mate who worked somewhere they were getting rid of some kind of big commercial microwave oven so he nicked the transformer out of that - apparently that's the kind of thing a lot of people use. He was gearing up to do it himself, until one day the new upload from the guy he was watching do it on YouTube was preceeded with "RIP [youtuber guy]" and it turned out he'd electrocuted (in the strict meaning of the word) himself. He wasn't so keen on it after that and gave up on the idea of ever doing it.
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May 29, 2023 04:56
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NotJustANumber99 posted:
Eh it's just differential movement. Completely inevitable when you have a real wood panel in a real wood door. Caulk and paint it, no probs*. *You might have to do it again at some point.
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Jul 24, 2023 15:39
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Leperflesh posted:NNJAN99's door having all those vertical slats made of real wood basically guarantees that with moisture changes they're going to shift and separate, but the cracks will be way more visible because the pieces don't slot into each other, they're just like... adjacent. Nah it's likely that the panel will still be a panel, in that it'll be a separate piece of wood that'll sit into a rebate, i.e. the panel will slot into the stile - you shouldn't be able to ever see daylight through a door like that. I think it's partially that doors like that would more usually be internal and/or would be either oiled or unfinished. The parts would be oiled before the door was put together (or at least before the panel was put in - if it's a beaded/nailed panel rather than a built-in panel). If it's oiled before assembly and the panel swells/shrinks you won't notice it because the parts will just slide past each other. Often these days with painted finishes, the door is only painted after assembly, and that's when you see the cracking of the paint finish. It can also happen to some extent even if you do paint the components before assembly 'cause modern paints will sort of cause two contacting painted surfaces to stick together, and it can still look like poo poo if a panel and door parts move separately. I've worked for a timber window/door manufacturer for ~18 years and it's basically just accepted that if you have a timber panel within a door you're gonna get some amount of differential movement between the pieces and have to do some refinishing. Also I was in charge of site visits for remedials for about 5 years so went out and saw tons of doors and windows etc. that had been installed anywhere from a few weeks to ~10 years (typically on the latter ones, our warrantees had run out but it was where the customer had e.g. bought some windows from us, then some years later also bought a conservatory). Generally, from what I've seen, after a door has been installed and acclimatised to its surroundings for a while, they won't move much after that. Usually they settle down after going through their first winter>summer or summer>winter cycle.
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Jul 25, 2023 05:21
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