|
dreg posted:I don't believe I've ever seen oak like that. Nicely done.
|
#
?
May 12, 2012 07:35
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 21, 2024 14:09 |
|
|
Got my bike motor kit working finally, need to tweak the exhaust and maybe add a reed valve before I strip + paint the frame: 
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2012 17:52
|
|
|
I'm building something out of logs. The end result should be something resembling this (except more manly):  A little place to bbq and chill during the summer. I have a zillion storm-felled trees from the boxing day storms last christmas, so I thought I'd might as well use them for something. Strip off the bark and outer layers and start building. Not yet fastening anything together (except for the short bits and pieces) - gonna assemble it here where I have the materials, mark every part, disassemble it and haul it 300 km to my parents place. Then hopefully reassemble :P
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2012 15:49
|
|
|
HUMAN FISH posted:Pioneering woodsman type poo poo That looks to be one hell of a project, any sort of timeline you expect to follow? are you going to caulk/seal and peg it when in its permanent home?
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2012 16:46
|
|
|
Nebulis01 posted:That looks to be one hell of a project, any sort of timeline you expect to follow? are you going to caulk/seal and peg it when in its permanent home? Looking to finish in a couple of weeks, that took three days or something. You get faster with the chainsaw as you go on and get practise. I've never really done anything needing finesse with a chainsaw before. Also it'll be significantly slower when the height goes up naturally. I'll probably build a second one and keep it here if I have enough decent materials. I should have enough, though.  Have a couple of stacks like this lying around.  And these and a lot more scheduled for debarking. (or I'll just go and cut down more trees). Now is like the best time of the year to debark trees: you can literally just pull the bark off (at least from spruces).  Not going to caulk/seal it, the joints are already quite tight since the logs are embedded a bit into each other and there's going to be big windows / empty spaces anyway.  You can see the groove here. The short logs are already pegged to keep them in place. The only worry was drilling a 38mm hole through two logs with a cordless drill. Luckily it had enough torque and finished like a champ.  Also for shits and giggles I'm using a lot of tools made by my great grandpa who was a country blacksmith. For example all the peeling has been done with these puppies:  Still using chainsaws though. I'm not a masochist 
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2012 17:41
|
|
|
quote is not edit, leaving these here Bonus pictures of project 2010: Went from this:  via  via  via  to this: 
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2012 17:51
|
|
|
HUMAN FISH posted:
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2012 19:06
|
|
|
yaffle posted:That is lovely. how warm is it inside with just solid wood walls? Stays at a nice and warm 20 C even with -20 C outside by firing up the fireplace twice a day (in the morning and before hitting the sack). Maybe a third time if it's closing on -30 outside. A heat accumulating fireplace works wonders. The only insulation is 200mm of mineral wool beneath the floor and 150mm on the ceiling. The walls are solid wood indeed.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2012 19:43
|
|
|
All the log cabin stuff is really neat, thanks for sharing! Is spruce bark useful for anything? Seeing it come off in sheets like that reminds me of bark canoes, although I guess most of those use birch. Related: http://youtu.be/iYJKd0rkKss Guy lives in the wilderness for several years building his own cabin and various tools (or at least tool handles).
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2012 20:39
|
|
|
Nubile Hillock posted:Got my bike motor kit working finally, need to tweak the exhaust and maybe add a reed valve before I strip + paint the frame: What motor did you go with? You recommend getting into a project like this? What tools did you end up using that you didn't think you'd need from the start? I've had several mopeds/scooters, and wife won't let me purchase a new one. She said I could build a couple of these if I wanted, and I just have yet to pull the trigger.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2012 00:17
|
|
|
yaffle posted:That is lovely. how warm is it inside with just solid wood walls? My parents have 12" interlocking logs in their cottage. The insulation (sound and heat) is amazing! I forget the R Value, but once you have warmed up the logs (takes a day or two) it's surprisingly easy to heat. Also, contrary to popular belief, round log cabins/houses are harder to catch on fire than most other types of buildings (modern and otherwise).
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2012 16:31
|
|
|
Blistex posted:My parents have 12" interlocking logs in their cottage. The insulation (sound and heat) is amazing! I forget the R Value, but once you have warmed up the logs (takes a day or two) it's surprisingly easy to heat. Also, contrary to popular belief, round log cabins/houses are harder to catch on fire than most other types of buildings (modern and otherwise). Isn't there normally insulation between the logs? I'm pretty sure I've always seen some sort of filler to block any air gaps. Well, not really between the logs so much as pressed into the space between the rounds.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2012 16:57
|
|
|
Delta-Wye posted:Isn't there normally insulation between the logs? I'm pretty sure I've always seen some sort of filler to block any air gaps. normally, yes you do fill the gap or seal it.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2012 20:58
|
|
|
Nubile Hillock posted:Got my bike motor kit working finally, need to tweak the exhaust and maybe add a reed valve before I strip + paint the frame: I'm curious how this went too. I almost built one of these a few months ago but the lack of garage or time killed the project.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2012 02:27
|
|
|
Dead Pressed posted:What motor did you go with? You recommend getting into a project like this? What tools did you end up using that you didn't think you'd need from the start? Would I recommend it? Hells yes! If you like tinkering and want to get to know a motor, this project is an awesome way to start. I got a motor from a dealer in Alberta that offered free shipping, it was $150 sent to my door. There are apparently better quality motors on the market, but this one's alright. I actually have a blog detailing my progress http://bikeandmotorhell.blogspot.ca/ As for tools I didn't think I'd need: -welder -grinder -soldering iron -really big hammer If you get a frame you're 100% satisfied with all you'll need is a ratchet set and some screwdrivers. oXDemosthenesXo posted:I'm curious how this went too. I almost built one of these a few months ago but the lack of garage or time killed the project. This particular project went on for waaay longer than I wanted it to. Ended up just fabricating a custom fork and bracket mount, and lost a LOT of time trying to make some mudguards fit. As you can see, the endeavor failed. This was the frame I started off with:  And what you saw above is the result. I kept nothing save for the coaster brake and the stem. If you were to pick a good frame it takes about a few weeknights and maybe a saturday to get up and running. Originally I had put it together in my basement (the parts are clean when it's shipped!) so lack of a garage should really be a non-issue.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2012 04:43
|
|
|
I've been working on some minor home improvement/decorating/baby proofing projects. I've finished two, one was a piece of plywood to cover up our fireplace. I painted it with metallic primer and stuck it on with velcro. We never use our fireplace because it's propane... I was so sick of my son climbing into it. But I'm super stoked about how this turned out. A giant ruler growth chart:  I stained a 1x8x6 foot board with walnut stain, then used ruler and pencil to mark off inches. I used a t square to paint the lines straight: 3 inches for the foot, 2 inches for the quarters and 1 inch for the... 16ths(?). I drew them on with a paint pen, but I wish I had drawn them on with a thin sharpie first because the paint pens kinda suck on wood (maybe should have sanded the board first, too). I printed #1-6 in Century, 200pt, and used a pen to press the numbers onto the board. I went off some woman's blog post, she sells them in her Etsy shop for like... $70 and she based hers off of a Pottery Barn product. Hanging it was the worst, I used two d ring screw in hangers in the wood and nailed picture hooks for the wall.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2012 01:20
|
|
|
InferiorCatwoman posted:3 inches for the foot, 2 inches for the quarters and 1 inch for the... 16ths(?). 12ths. All you gotta do is add them up and you know what measure it is. That is a neat idea and well made. Good job.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2012 02:03
|
|
|
thecobra posted:12ths. All you gotta do is add them up and you know what measure it is. That is a neat idea and well made. Good job. 8ths. Edit, drat they are 12ths. Weird.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2012 02:11
|
|
|
Sudden Infant Def Syndrome posted:8ths. Bahahaha would have never noticed until you pointed it out, nice.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2012 16:00
|
|
|
Finally finished the Cigar Box Guitar I've been working on.  Previously I had posted some progress pics in woodworking and ask/tell music threads but here it is finished. The neck is red oak, the fingerboard is walnut, the nut is some unidentified insanely hard South American hardwood. The frets are 12 gauge copper wire (there is a close up in the woodworking thread) in diatonic spacing (like a dulcimer), the bridge is made from a copper covered ground rod, and the tuning heads are zither pins. Finished in lacquer. It can be plugged into a guitar amp and has a volume control. I can't play it yet but I had someone test it out. Since this video I have changed the bridge, nut, strings and tuning so it now sounds very different but this will give you an idea. http://youtu.be/mmy59UgIETY Progress posts of the woodworking here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2819334&userid=30468&perpage=40&pagenumber=12
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2012 03:35
|
|
|
What are you using for frets? Looks like some kind of copper nail?
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2012 03:41
|
|
|
HUMAN FISH posted:Also for shits and giggles I'm using a lot of tools made by my great grandpa who was a country blacksmith. For example all the peeling has been done with these puppies: Those are some absolutely beautiful drawknives. I'm jealous.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2012 14:48
|
|
|
I was reading through this thread earlier, and you guys are impressive with your projects. I have been in the publishing business for awhile and recently opened my own press. Now I'm also attempting the other side of books, printing and book-binding (only for some smaller projects), and just had my first experiment with a book project that is larger than one I'll probably ever do again. I posted some about it already in the self-publishing thread, but here's a photo of the project before trimming and before I smoothed it out the cover on the spine. I don't have a good paper-cutter tool and also am building a new book press (my first one it was hard to line up a big book block for gluing).  I am reading everything I can about book-binding and would love to someday do one of those really cool hardbound books with a leather cover. I'm still waiting on some tools for sew-binding and am excited about trying that.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2012 08:49
|
|
|
Not a major project, but I'm super pleased with how it's coming out so far. Just bought a new house, and in that house is a basement, and in that basement is a corner under the stairs.  Looked like a nice place for an inside workbench, so I picked up some 2x4s and a 4x8 sheet of melamine, and made it happen.    Not quite done: I'm going to put pegboard over the entire back wall, and put in some wiring to provide outlets and extra lights.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2012 20:30
|
|
|
DethMarine21 posted:Yes this is more or less how it works. The two objects below the LED display are actually rotary switches, one for the tens place and one for the ones place, and when a magazine is inserted it reads their value and starts the count based on that. There's some additional logic that detects if the chamber is loaded and adds 1 to the count if it is. As a result the value on the rotary switches Must be equal to the number of rounds in the magazine when it is inserted for everything to work right. Are you still working on this? I just saw the link in the space mosin thread. You could set it up to detect rounds by wiring up the magazines with a contact on the follower and a very thin conductor along the back or side walls, and slide contacts for the magazine to communicate with the main unit on the gun.
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2012 14:42
|
|
|
bigpolar posted:Are you still working on this? I just saw the link in the space mosin thread. Yup, still working on it. I did another PCB design with resistor arrays instead of a million single 0603 resistors, so the board is a lot cleaner and assembly is much easier now. However when I tried wiring it to an airsoft AEG I found that the PCB design has a lot of internal noise and is very susceptible to EMI (the current surge from pulling the trigger can cause enough noise to reset the counter) so I'm trying to iron that out. I did throw around a bunch of ideas for detecting the amount of rounds from the magazine, but I didn't think they would be reliable enough. Magazines are exposed to a pretty harsh environment, both inside and outside the gun, so I had some concerns about using slide contacts anywhere. I did come up with some ideas similar to yours though, like a variable resistance strip similar to old school car mass airflow sensors on the inside of the magazine that a contact on the follower would wipe across and measure a change in resistance as it moved. The future of this project will probably involve some way of detecting the amount of rounds directly from the magazine though, since it would be way more reliable and accurate than just guessing like the current version does. DethMarine21 fucked around with this message at 19:02 on Jun 7, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2012 18:58
|
|
|
DethMarine21 posted:I did throw around a bunch of ideas for detecting the amount of rounds from the magazine, but I didn't think they would be reliable enough. Magazines are exposed to a pretty harsh environment, both inside and outside the gun, so I had some concerns about using slide contacts anywhere. I did come up with some ideas similar to yours though, like a variable resistance strip similar to old school car mass airflow sensors on the inside of the magazine that a contact on the follower would wipe across and measure a change in resistance as it moved. Measuring a change in resistance would probably be really error prone, since each substrate that you put in different magazines may have slightly different resistance per unit length. What about using spring-loaded roller contacts on the follower to connect 4-bit logical steps at each follower position? That should work for up to 16 round magazines. Say you have +1.5 coming in on one side of the mag, (just a strip metal conductor would work) and each position sends 4 bits back to your controller, depending n the position. So you would have one strip on one side, then a line of contacts, each contact connected to 4 (or 5, if you want more rounds) wires to make numbers to send to your counter. I can make a crude paint pic if this doesn't make sense. Of course this doesn't work if you don't have the input channels to spare.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2012 00:43
|
|
|
I get what you are saying, I had the same idea too but like I mentioned I am just wary of using any sort of slide contacts in an environment where they could be easily affected by contaminants like dirt, oil, burnt powder, etc. Also airsoft guns have tiny followers (if any) and almost no room in the magazine to install anything, so I put that idea in the back of my head for now. Inputs wouldn't be an issue, since reading the amount of rounds from the magazine would remove the need for the two BCD rotary switches and free up 8 inputs. I don't know if I'd trust 8 slide contacts on the side of a magazine though. I suppose a small converter chip could be installed in the magazine itself, then you would only need two contact for + and - power, plus however many for whatever interface it is converting to, like two for I²C.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2012 02:01
|
|
|
DethMarine21 posted:I get what you are saying, I had the same idea too but like I mentioned I am just wary of using any sort of slide contacts in an environment where they could be easily affected by contaminants like dirt, oil, burnt powder, etc. Also airsoft guns have tiny followers (if any) and almost no room in the magazine to install anything, so I put that idea in the back of my head for now. Its an air-soft AEG, why don't you just drill a hole/put a shiny sticker in/on one of the action gears and put an optical sensor in there, just count rotations with near 100% accuracy minimal actual electronics added to the gun itself. You could then put a reset button on magazine seating to make it reset.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2012 05:18
|
|
|
Linux Assassin posted:Its an air-soft AEG, why don't you just drill a hole/put a shiny sticker in/on one of the action gears and put an optical sensor in there, just count rotations with near 100% accuracy minimal actual electronics added to the gun itself. You could then put a reset button on magazine seating to make it reset. This project was designed with real firearms in mind; attaching it to an AEG was a kind of a spur-of-the-moment thing to maybe stress test by putting a million rounds on it to see if any issues came up.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2012 07:03
|
|
|
DethMarine21 posted:This project was designed with real firearms in mind; attaching it to an AEG was a kind of a spur-of-the-moment thing to maybe stress test by putting a million rounds on it to see if any issues came up. Well with a real firearm a sound sensor would do just fine. A simple pickup tied to your round counter should be more then accurate enough to count even fully automatic of .22 rimfire without missing any- you will have to play with the thresholds to make sure you are only counting the loudest part of each shot. That would also likely work with the airsoft system, but airsoft is so quiet by comparison to an actual firearm it would require a lot more tweaking and it might count ambient noises as a 'shot' in a loudish environment.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2012 09:40
|
|
|
Linux Assassin posted:Well with a real firearm a sound sensor would do just fine. A simple pickup tied to your round counter should be more then accurate enough to count even fully automatic of .22 rimfire without missing any- you will have to play with the thresholds to make sure you are only counting the loudest part of each shot. Problem there being any time you happened to take it to the range, you run the risk of counting anyone in the lanes to either side of you firing as a shot as well.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2012 14:09
|
|
|
Liquid Communism posted:Problem there being any time you happened to take it to the range, you run the risk of counting anyone in the lanes to either side of you firing as a shot as well. Sound decays really quickly with regards to distance so it would have to be a pretty lovely audio detector to pick up other guns.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2012 16:50
|
|
|
Liquid Communism posted:Problem there being any time you happened to take it to the range, you run the risk of counting anyone in the lanes to either side of you firing as a shot as well. As Corla Plankun said; this is a non-issue. Say you have a pickup where the pezio puts out a maximum of 1 mv (worked example; you won't ever see numbers likes this from an actual pezio pickup), you tune your circuit so that the loudest part of the shot hits that 1mv spike- even if you were to put another firearm DIRECTLY ON TOP (as in physically touching) of the firearm with the sound sensor you would only see perhaps 500uv spikes form its shots. The firearm in the next lane would be generating in the tens of nanovolts range, if it even had enough force to charge the pezio at all. Another great way to put this into perspective is- how often do you hear a guitarist on stage have their guitar pick up the string plucks from the guitar next to them, or the voice of the crowd (Hint: Never). Edit: Thinking about it, there might be false positives on a pickup if say- this sensor was on and tuned for a .22lr rifle, and a .50 rifle was being fired within say, 1cm of it (or physically touching it). Or if the firearm were being shot with a larger total energy round (So again, if you have a .22lr rifle; and you shoot and hit it with a .308; that will likely generate a false positive; it will also likely destroy the mechanism, and the rifle). Now I bring this up only because; say you have this system tied to a 5.56 rifle system that also features an under-barrel shotgun loaded with either a heavy buck or solid slug. In that scenario firing the shotgun may (and only may) trigger a false count for firing the main weapon. It is still predominantly a non-issue, but 5.56 rifles with under-barrel shotguns do exist and they may be poor platforms for a pickup based system. Linux Assassin fucked around with this message at 17:29 on Jun 9, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2012 17:21
|
|
|
Linux Assassin posted:
loving pickups, how do they work? 
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2012 18:25
|
|
|
Someone else designed a version that uses an accelerometer to sense the recoil impulse when a shot is fired. The reason I went a different route is that neither of those methods (sound sensing or recoil sensing) decrement the counter when you hand cycle the weapon, and they can't determine loaded chambers as easily (if at all).
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2012 18:33
|
|
|
I got into perler beads a few years ago. While I like all the sprites and images people create, I prefer making a portrait to use as wall art. The current one I did is from the first Dungeons and Dragons arcade game. It measures about 4 & 1/2' by 6 & 1/2'. It still needs to be fused into a solid piece. I will not do that yet until I learn how exactly to frame this behemoth.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2012 09:00
|
|
|
Hooooooooooly gently caress. That is awesome.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2012 15:46
|
|
|
Deliciouscesium posted:I got into perler beads a few years ago. While I like all the sprites and images people create, I prefer making a portrait to use as wall art. The current one I did is from the first Dungeons and Dragons arcade game. That is incredible. I love seeing people take goofy supplies like perler beads I used to make terrible, terrible coasters as a kid and turn them into gorgeous art. Someday, when I don't live in a tiny, tiny apartment, I want to have a room dedicated to arting and crafting.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2012 18:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 21, 2024 14:09 |
|
|
Deliciouscesium posted:I got into perler beads a few years ago. While I like all the sprites and images people create, I prefer making a portrait to use as wall art. The current one I did is from the first Dungeons and Dragons arcade game. This is amazing, and I can't wrap my head around the time and effort put into it. Also, you could frame it to look like one of the old TSR game boxes, or just a giant gold guilded frame.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2012 03:11
|
|