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Z3n
Jul 21, 2007

I think the point is Z3n is a space cowboy on the edge of a frontier unknown to man, he's out there pushing the limits, trail braking into the abyss. Finding out where the edge of the razor is, turning to face the darkness and revving his 690 into it's vast gaze. You gotta live this to learn it bro.

frunksock posted:

Okay, thanks again. JP -- well, I wasn't jumping up and down on it, more like very carefully and slowly getting my weight onto it while balancing myself with a hand on the wall.

As far as hammering it, I'm not sure I'd say full tilt, since I had to put some energy into keeping the socket on the nut and making accurate hits on the handle.

But either way, yeah, I'm definitely putting down more a lot more torque than should be necessary. I'm a little pissed at the shop, between this and stealing the shims from my front brakes. Munroe Motors, for anyone else in the bay area, though to be fair, I've only heard positive things from other people.

Didn't realize you're in the bay: If you're near oakland, swing by and borrow my corded impact wrench.

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the good fax machine
Feb 26, 2007

by Nyc_Tattoo
So I am looking at finally getting a stand.. Are they all pretty much universal? I thought I was going to have to look specifically for something that would work on both the R6 and the EX500, but then I remembered the EX500 has it's own center stand, so doesn't matter either way. Anybody have a recommendation? Should I get front and rear? I don't want to spend more than a couple hundred, and I'm not a mechanical wizard but I prefer to DIY as much as humanly possible.

unbuttonedclone
Dec 30, 2008
Do you have a welding machine? I can send you pictures of my dad's homemade stands.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




n8r posted:

You tried heating it up? Also soak it with some pb blaster.

Agreed, heat it up. If there's loctite in there that will melt it

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

If you use the hot wrench be careful around the seal. It's not a bad idea to have a squirt bottle of water handy to keep the seal cool.

Ziploc
Sep 19, 2006
MX-5
I now have a proper OEM naked Suzuki naked bucket and reflector fitted on the bike.

When buying new bulbs Amazon had a 55/60w + 55/100w bundle.

I have upgraded higher gauge wire that is fused and relayed going straight to the battery as well as a ceramic H4 connector. How advantageous would it be for me to run the 55/100w bulb? Will it run too hot for the bucket? Will I see a difference on the 100w setting? Is it worth using over the 60w highbeam or not worth whatever risk? (Providing there is a downside/risk to running such a high wattage.)

frunksock
Feb 21, 2002

Z3n posted:

Didn't realize you're in the bay: If you're near oakland, swing by and borrow my corded impact wrench.
Thanks for the offer! I live in SF, but I just got home from Home Depot and tried a corded impact wrench, supposedly 380ft-lb or something. I'm not sure how long I'm supposed to run it, but 15-20 seconds didn't do anything.

I also got an 18" piece of pipe to put over the breaker bar, some PB Blaster (thanks n8r), and a better hammer, so one way or another ... I'm not sure how to heat it up. I don't have a hair dryer and I'm unsure about taking a cigarette lighter to it.

slidebite -- what does the seal look like?

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

edit: ^^ The wheel seal. Probably the black rubber thing you can see on the outside of the hub. It doesn't break @ 380lbs? Jesus. Heat it up and use the impact again.

I've seen reflector bowl/bucket blister from the added heat of high wattage bulbs so I'd be very cautious.

Why do you want to bump the high beam? Do you do a lot of night riding? I live in the sticks compared to most people and even I can hardly use high beams because of oncoming traffic.

Ziploc
Sep 19, 2006
MX-5

slidebite posted:

I've seen reflector bowl/bucket blister from the added heat of high wattage bulbs so I'd be very cautious.

Why do you want to bump the high beam? Do you do a lot of night riding? I live in the sticks compared to most people and even I can hardly use high beams because of oncoming traffic.

The bulb was stupid cheap and I wanted to know how much of a difference it would actually make. I haven't tried the new motorcycle specific bucket (was using a Bosch car reflector before) and was wondering if it was worth switching bulbs.

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost

Ziploc posted:

The bulb was stupid cheap and I wanted to know how much of a difference it would actually make. I haven't tried the new motorcycle specific bucket (was using a Bosch car reflector before) and was wondering if it was worth switching bulbs.

The 100w will cook the light housing, just get decent 55w ones, osram silverstars or philips motovisions are good

Z3n
Jul 21, 2007

I think the point is Z3n is a space cowboy on the edge of a frontier unknown to man, he's out there pushing the limits, trail braking into the abyss. Finding out where the edge of the razor is, turning to face the darkness and revving his 690 into it's vast gaze. You gotta live this to learn it bro.

frunksock posted:

Thanks for the offer! I live in SF, but I just got home from Home Depot and tried a corded impact wrench, supposedly 380ft-lb or something. I'm not sure how long I'm supposed to run it, but 15-20 seconds didn't do anything.

I also got an 18" piece of pipe to put over the breaker bar, some PB Blaster (thanks n8r), and a better hammer, so one way or another ... I'm not sure how to heat it up. I don't have a hair dryer and I'm unsure about taking a cigarette lighter to it.

slidebite -- what does the seal look like?

Put it on it and rattle that thing until it comes off. Are you sure it's not reverse threaded or something?

echomadman
Aug 24, 2004

Nap Ghost

Z3n posted:

Are you sure it's not reverse threaded or something?

If it is its well tightened by now

frunksock
Feb 21, 2002

I'm going to try again tomorrow since the wrench is a bit loud for at night. Yeah, it's not reverse threaded.

frunksock
Feb 21, 2002

gently caress YEAH. I got it by standing on the end of the 18" pipe slipped over the handle of the 24" breaker bar. So probably 500ish ft-lb.

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester
Oct 3, 2000
That took so long I forgot what it was. Axle nut? What kinda bike?

frunksock
Feb 21, 2002

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:

That took so long I forgot what it was. Axle nut? What kinda bike?
Heh, me too. Rear wheel nut on a Monster.

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
What the gently caress. That's crazy I thought this was a front sprocket nut. Check your wheel bearings - that might have messed something up.

Saga
Aug 17, 2009

frunksock posted:

Heh, me too. Rear wheel nut on a Monster.

I would guess they cross threaded it and then stuck an air wrench on it.

frunksock
Feb 21, 2002

If there are bearings, they're deep in a part I don't want to go digging into with my skills. Maybe it's different on a single-sided swingarm bike? Here's the parts diagram. And another. The nut in question is #13 on the first picture.

Saga -- once the nut broke, it moved smoothly and normally. Wouldn't an air wrench alone be enough to do this? From browsing around it looks like they do like 500-1000ft-lb, and I estimate it took around 500 to break it.

Saga
Aug 17, 2009

frunksock posted:

If there are bearings, they're deep in a part I don't want to go digging into with my skills. Maybe it's different on a single-sided swingarm bike? Here's the parts diagram. And another. The nut in question is #13 on the first picture.

Saga -- once the nut broke, it moved smoothly and normally. Wouldn't an air wrench alone be enough to do this? From browsing around it looks like they do like 500-1000ft-lb, and I estimate it took around 500 to break it.

Bearings are in the hub. Yeah, maybe just incompetent use of an air wrench. Crazy because you have that circlip to keep the nut on. No reason not to use a torque wrench and do it right.

Sir Cornelius
Oct 30, 2011

frunksock posted:

Saga -- once the nut broke, it moved smoothly and normally. Wouldn't an air wrench alone be enough to do this?

Yes it would. Due to the diameter of that nut and hub axle a psychopath-mechanic with a large impact wrench is able to apply an insane amount of torque without really braking anything. My guess is that he was unsure and a bit paranoid about a uni-sided swingarm and just went, yeah, nuts ;).

Find another mechanic, this one will probably crush your wheel and break your hub bearings if you let him do it again. Actually, you probably should check that wheel carefully for micro cracks near the hub before you let this rest.

Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 12:56 on May 26, 2012

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester
Oct 3, 2000
Oh a single sided center nut. Aren't those things supposed to have shitloads of torque on them?

frunksock
Feb 21, 2002

Sir Cornelius posted:

Find another mechanic, this one will probably crush your wheel and break your hub bearings if you let him do it again. Actually, you probably should check that wheel carefully for micro cracks near the hub before you let this rest.
Yeah, I decided that like a week or two ago when I realized that they left out a part when putting the front wheel back on. Any particular technique to looking for micro cracks? Just peep at it with a flashlight? The wheel is painted gloss black.

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:

Oh a single sided center nut. Aren't those things supposed to have shitloads of torque on them?
This one is supposed to have 130ft-lb, which I would have called a shitload before I was applying 500 to it trying to get it off :) The engine makes like 50ft-lb.

Anyway, thanks a ton for all the suggestions. You guys are the best.

Chris Knight
Jun 5, 2002

me @ ur posts


Fun Shoe

Synonamess Botch posted:

Probably. I have a little tackle box full of jets and there are a handful of them that don't have the size stamped on them. It's annoying because I have to guess what size they are. But probably 99% of them in my experience have the size stamped on them. Only way to know is to check!
So, to answer my own question: yes indeed the current jets have their sizes stamped on them, and yes indeed they are the right ones for the bike (70/110) but NOT for the carbs that are actually on it (72/118). However I have the proper ones in a rebuild kit, so here goes nothin'! :)

Sir Cornelius
Oct 30, 2011

frunksock posted:

Any particular technique to looking for micro cracks? Just peep at it with a flashlight? The wheel is painted gloss black.

Fill a tiny glass with WD40 and add some red water paint. Stir like a maniac. Brush the solution on the dismounted wheel while it's laying flat. Observe.

Bixington
Feb 27, 2011

made me feel all nippley inside my tittychest
Does anybody have a good guide to foot positioning? Everything I've read says to put the ball of your feet on the pegs, which I do, but I'm running into new problems with my toes pointing out a little and scraping in corners. I've not had this problem since I first scraped pegs and started to work on body positioning, but I'm going far faster and what I feel like in better positions now, so I'm a little confused.

Z3n
Jul 21, 2007

I think the point is Z3n is a space cowboy on the edge of a frontier unknown to man, he's out there pushing the limits, trail braking into the abyss. Finding out where the edge of the razor is, turning to face the darkness and revving his 690 into it's vast gaze. You gotta live this to learn it bro.

Bixington posted:

Does anybody have a good guide to foot positioning? Everything I've read says to put the ball of your feet on the pegs, which I do, but I'm running into new problems with my toes pointing out a little and scraping in corners. I've not had this problem since I first scraped pegs and started to work on body positioning, but I'm going far faster and what I feel like in better positions now, so I'm a little confused.

Pick better lines that let you use less lean angle, hang off more, or get rearsets. Your ideal progression of dragging stuff should be knee/toe/peg, so you keep a solid understanding of what level of lean you're at.

If you really don't want to drag toes, tuck your foot up against the side of the rearset, jamming the edge of your foot into the L of the rearset and peg, and you should stop dragging toes before you drag peg :)

Z3n fucked around with this message at 01:29 on May 27, 2012

kenny powerzzz
Jan 20, 2010

Z3n posted:

Pick better lines that let you use less lean angle, hang off more, or get rearsets. Your ideal progression of dragging stuff should be knee/toe/peg, so you keep a solid understanding of what level of lean you're at.

If you really don't want to drag toes, tuck your foot up against the side of the rearset, jamming the edge of your foot into the L of the rearset and peg, and you should stop dragging toes before you drag peg :)
Hey thanks, that really helped.

EvilCrayon
Dec 30, 2007

frunksock posted:

Yeah, I decided that like a week or two ago when I realized that they left out a part when putting the front wheel back on. Any particular technique to looking for micro cracks? Just peep at it with a flashlight? The wheel is painted gloss black.

This one is supposed to have 130ft-lb, which I would have called a shitload before I was applying 500 to it trying to get it off :) The engine makes like 50ft-lb.

Anyway, thanks a ton for all the suggestions. You guys are the best.

Did you try soaking the nut in WD40/PB Blaster for at least 24 hours? I've found that soaking all the fasteners in addition to an impact driver has made the majority of repairs way less frustrating.

Also since you live in the city, let's ride.

frunksock
Feb 21, 2002

EvilCrayon posted:

Did you try soaking the nut in WD40/PB Blaster for at least 24 hours? I've found that soaking all the fasteners in addition to an impact driver has made the majority of repairs way less frustrating.

Also since you live in the city, let's ride.
I didn't, though that would have been the next thing. I can't keep straight what lubricants / cleaners are and aren't supposed to go where, so I didn't want to try that until I was sure it was safe. Speaking of which, the shop manual specifies "SHELL Retinax HDX2" on that wheel nut (since they pimp for Shell). Can I get by with something I already have on hand like white lithium or brake caliper grease?

Word, it might be awhile before I'd go on a group ride since I'm taking baby steps after not riding for a while, and I was relatively slow even when riding a lot. First I have finish getting the bike back into order, but I'm hopefully almost done with that.

Guinness
Sep 15, 2004

I did a thing today



2006 Ninja 650R, less than 1500 miles. First bike, rode it about 50 miles home after buying it, so far loving it! Thanks for the help in this thread, helped me a lot in narrowing my searches.

KozmoNaut
Apr 23, 2008

Happiness is a warm
Turbo Plasma Rifle


I'm looking for an adjustable clutch lever, but I can only seem to find ones for hydraulic clutches and I need one for a cable clutch.

Can you recommend me an adjustable lever or tell me if an SV650 uses a cable clutch? (I've found a set for sale that supposedly fits an SV)

Knot My President!
Jan 10, 2005

SV650's use cable clutches.

Sir Cornelius
Oct 30, 2011

KozmoNaut posted:

I'm looking for an adjustable clutch lever, but I can only seem to find ones for hydraulic clutches and I need one for a cable clutch.

Can you recommend me an adjustable lever or tell me if an SV650 uses a cable clutch? (I've found a set for sale that supposedly fits an SV)

If it's for your Bandit, both CRG and Vortex has solutions.

Translated to moon-language:
"Ring til de forbandede forbrydere fra Enghave MC, ellers kan Skjern MC sikkert hjælpe, men hvad fanden er der galt med det greb du har?"

KozmoNaut
Apr 23, 2008

Happiness is a warm
Turbo Plasma Rifle


Sir Cornelius posted:

If it's for your Bandit, both CRG and Vortex has solutions.

Translated to moon-language:
"Ring til de forbandede forbrydere fra Enghave MC, ellers kan Skjern MC sikkert hjælpe, men hvad fanden er der galt med det greb du har?"

Haven't been able to find them.

Og det er røv at have små fede pølsefingre.

Sir Cornelius
Oct 30, 2011

KozmoNaut posted:

Haven't been able to find them.

Og det er røv at have små fede pølsefingre.

Lots of levers for tiny fat sausage-fingers:

http://motorcycle.motorcycle-superstore.com/motorcycle/Adjustable%20Clutch%20Lever

Edit: Link is just to prove that they exist. Do not buy anything from there. They're way too overpriced.

Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 09:24 on May 27, 2012

KozmoNaut
Apr 23, 2008

Happiness is a warm
Turbo Plasma Rifle


I'll just have to look harder, then.

And stop drunk-calling me <:mad:>

Sir Cornelius
Oct 30, 2011

KozmoNaut posted:

I'll just have to look harder, then.

And stop drunk-calling me <:mad:>

LOL, I weren't even drunk. Sadly. Tried to call my brother to help me moving something out of your lift capacity ;) I didn't realize I called you.

unbuttonedclone
Dec 30, 2008
Why would my clutch cable keep tightening itself up? (r1100gs)

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Sir Cornelius
Oct 30, 2011

thylacine posted:

Why would my clutch cable keep tightening itself up? (r1100gs)

Because the cable is twisted and/or bend in an odd way. That or gray aliens. Probably gray aliens.

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