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frunksock posted:Okay, thanks again. JP -- well, I wasn't jumping up and down on it, more like very carefully and slowly getting my weight onto it while balancing myself with a hand on the wall. Didn't realize you're in the bay: If you're near oakland, swing by and borrow my corded impact wrench.
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# ? May 26, 2012 00:20 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 03:23 |
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So I am looking at finally getting a stand.. Are they all pretty much universal? I thought I was going to have to look specifically for something that would work on both the R6 and the EX500, but then I remembered the EX500 has it's own center stand, so doesn't matter either way. Anybody have a recommendation? Should I get front and rear? I don't want to spend more than a couple hundred, and I'm not a mechanical wizard but I prefer to DIY as much as humanly possible.
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# ? May 26, 2012 00:52 |
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Do you have a welding machine? I can send you pictures of my dad's homemade stands.
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# ? May 26, 2012 01:31 |
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n8r posted:You tried heating it up? Also soak it with some pb blaster. Agreed, heat it up. If there's loctite in there that will melt it
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# ? May 26, 2012 01:36 |
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If you use the hot wrench be careful around the seal. It's not a bad idea to have a squirt bottle of water handy to keep the seal cool.
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# ? May 26, 2012 02:20 |
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I now have a proper OEM naked Suzuki naked bucket and reflector fitted on the bike. When buying new bulbs Amazon had a 55/60w + 55/100w bundle. I have upgraded higher gauge wire that is fused and relayed going straight to the battery as well as a ceramic H4 connector. How advantageous would it be for me to run the 55/100w bulb? Will it run too hot for the bucket? Will I see a difference on the 100w setting? Is it worth using over the 60w highbeam or not worth whatever risk? (Providing there is a downside/risk to running such a high wattage.)
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# ? May 26, 2012 02:38 |
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Z3n posted:Didn't realize you're in the bay: If you're near oakland, swing by and borrow my corded impact wrench. I also got an 18" piece of pipe to put over the breaker bar, some PB Blaster (thanks n8r), and a better hammer, so one way or another ... I'm not sure how to heat it up. I don't have a hair dryer and I'm unsure about taking a cigarette lighter to it. slidebite -- what does the seal look like?
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# ? May 26, 2012 02:43 |
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edit: ^^ The wheel seal. Probably the black rubber thing you can see on the outside of the hub. It doesn't break @ 380lbs? Jesus. Heat it up and use the impact again. I've seen reflector bowl/bucket blister from the added heat of high wattage bulbs so I'd be very cautious. Why do you want to bump the high beam? Do you do a lot of night riding? I live in the sticks compared to most people and even I can hardly use high beams because of oncoming traffic.
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# ? May 26, 2012 02:43 |
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slidebite posted:I've seen reflector bowl/bucket blister from the added heat of high wattage bulbs so I'd be very cautious. The bulb was stupid cheap and I wanted to know how much of a difference it would actually make. I haven't tried the new motorcycle specific bucket (was using a Bosch car reflector before) and was wondering if it was worth switching bulbs.
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# ? May 26, 2012 03:15 |
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Ziploc posted:The bulb was stupid cheap and I wanted to know how much of a difference it would actually make. I haven't tried the new motorcycle specific bucket (was using a Bosch car reflector before) and was wondering if it was worth switching bulbs. The 100w will cook the light housing, just get decent 55w ones, osram silverstars or philips motovisions are good
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# ? May 26, 2012 05:29 |
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frunksock posted:Thanks for the offer! I live in SF, but I just got home from Home Depot and tried a corded impact wrench, supposedly 380ft-lb or something. I'm not sure how long I'm supposed to run it, but 15-20 seconds didn't do anything. Put it on it and rattle that thing until it comes off. Are you sure it's not reverse threaded or something?
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# ? May 26, 2012 05:58 |
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Z3n posted:Are you sure it's not reverse threaded or something? If it is its well tightened by now
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# ? May 26, 2012 06:19 |
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I'm going to try again tomorrow since the wrench is a bit loud for at night. Yeah, it's not reverse threaded.
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# ? May 26, 2012 06:22 |
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gently caress YEAH. I got it by standing on the end of the 18" pipe slipped over the handle of the 24" breaker bar. So probably 500ish ft-lb.
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# ? May 26, 2012 06:34 |
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That took so long I forgot what it was. Axle nut? What kinda bike?
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# ? May 26, 2012 07:14 |
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:That took so long I forgot what it was. Axle nut? What kinda bike?
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# ? May 26, 2012 07:44 |
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What the gently caress. That's crazy I thought this was a front sprocket nut. Check your wheel bearings - that might have messed something up.
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# ? May 26, 2012 08:02 |
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frunksock posted:Heh, me too. Rear wheel nut on a Monster. I would guess they cross threaded it and then stuck an air wrench on it.
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# ? May 26, 2012 08:36 |
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If there are bearings, they're deep in a part I don't want to go digging into with my skills. Maybe it's different on a single-sided swingarm bike? Here's the parts diagram. And another. The nut in question is #13 on the first picture. Saga -- once the nut broke, it moved smoothly and normally. Wouldn't an air wrench alone be enough to do this? From browsing around it looks like they do like 500-1000ft-lb, and I estimate it took around 500 to break it.
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# ? May 26, 2012 08:53 |
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frunksock posted:If there are bearings, they're deep in a part I don't want to go digging into with my skills. Maybe it's different on a single-sided swingarm bike? Here's the parts diagram. And another. The nut in question is #13 on the first picture. Bearings are in the hub. Yeah, maybe just incompetent use of an air wrench. Crazy because you have that circlip to keep the nut on. No reason not to use a torque wrench and do it right.
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# ? May 26, 2012 09:26 |
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frunksock posted:Saga -- once the nut broke, it moved smoothly and normally. Wouldn't an air wrench alone be enough to do this? Yes it would. Due to the diameter of that nut and hub axle a psychopath-mechanic with a large impact wrench is able to apply an insane amount of torque without really braking anything. My guess is that he was unsure and a bit paranoid about a uni-sided swingarm and just went, yeah, nuts . Find another mechanic, this one will probably crush your wheel and break your hub bearings if you let him do it again. Actually, you probably should check that wheel carefully for micro cracks near the hub before you let this rest. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 12:56 on May 26, 2012 |
# ? May 26, 2012 12:38 |
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Oh a single sided center nut. Aren't those things supposed to have shitloads of torque on them?
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# ? May 26, 2012 18:20 |
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Sir Cornelius posted:Find another mechanic, this one will probably crush your wheel and break your hub bearings if you let him do it again. Actually, you probably should check that wheel carefully for micro cracks near the hub before you let this rest. Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Oh a single sided center nut. Aren't those things supposed to have shitloads of torque on them? Anyway, thanks a ton for all the suggestions. You guys are the best.
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# ? May 26, 2012 19:11 |
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Synonamess Botch posted:Probably. I have a little tackle box full of jets and there are a handful of them that don't have the size stamped on them. It's annoying because I have to guess what size they are. But probably 99% of them in my experience have the size stamped on them. Only way to know is to check!
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# ? May 26, 2012 20:28 |
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frunksock posted:Any particular technique to looking for micro cracks? Just peep at it with a flashlight? The wheel is painted gloss black. Fill a tiny glass with WD40 and add some red water paint. Stir like a maniac. Brush the solution on the dismounted wheel while it's laying flat. Observe.
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# ? May 26, 2012 20:44 |
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Does anybody have a good guide to foot positioning? Everything I've read says to put the ball of your feet on the pegs, which I do, but I'm running into new problems with my toes pointing out a little and scraping in corners. I've not had this problem since I first scraped pegs and started to work on body positioning, but I'm going far faster and what I feel like in better positions now, so I'm a little confused.
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# ? May 27, 2012 01:24 |
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Bixington posted:Does anybody have a good guide to foot positioning? Everything I've read says to put the ball of your feet on the pegs, which I do, but I'm running into new problems with my toes pointing out a little and scraping in corners. I've not had this problem since I first scraped pegs and started to work on body positioning, but I'm going far faster and what I feel like in better positions now, so I'm a little confused. Pick better lines that let you use less lean angle, hang off more, or get rearsets. Your ideal progression of dragging stuff should be knee/toe/peg, so you keep a solid understanding of what level of lean you're at. If you really don't want to drag toes, tuck your foot up against the side of the rearset, jamming the edge of your foot into the L of the rearset and peg, and you should stop dragging toes before you drag peg Z3n fucked around with this message at 01:29 on May 27, 2012 |
# ? May 27, 2012 01:27 |
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Z3n posted:Pick better lines that let you use less lean angle, hang off more, or get rearsets. Your ideal progression of dragging stuff should be knee/toe/peg, so you keep a solid understanding of what level of lean you're at.
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# ? May 27, 2012 02:49 |
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frunksock posted:Yeah, I decided that like a week or two ago when I realized that they left out a part when putting the front wheel back on. Any particular technique to looking for micro cracks? Just peep at it with a flashlight? The wheel is painted gloss black. Did you try soaking the nut in WD40/PB Blaster for at least 24 hours? I've found that soaking all the fasteners in addition to an impact driver has made the majority of repairs way less frustrating. Also since you live in the city, let's ride.
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# ? May 27, 2012 03:33 |
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EvilCrayon posted:Did you try soaking the nut in WD40/PB Blaster for at least 24 hours? I've found that soaking all the fasteners in addition to an impact driver has made the majority of repairs way less frustrating. Word, it might be awhile before I'd go on a group ride since I'm taking baby steps after not riding for a while, and I was relatively slow even when riding a lot. First I have finish getting the bike back into order, but I'm hopefully almost done with that.
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# ? May 27, 2012 05:08 |
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I did a thing today 2006 Ninja 650R, less than 1500 miles. First bike, rode it about 50 miles home after buying it, so far loving it! Thanks for the help in this thread, helped me a lot in narrowing my searches.
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# ? May 27, 2012 06:48 |
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I'm looking for an adjustable clutch lever, but I can only seem to find ones for hydraulic clutches and I need one for a cable clutch. Can you recommend me an adjustable lever or tell me if an SV650 uses a cable clutch? (I've found a set for sale that supposedly fits an SV)
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# ? May 27, 2012 08:17 |
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SV650's use cable clutches.
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# ? May 27, 2012 08:49 |
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KozmoNaut posted:I'm looking for an adjustable clutch lever, but I can only seem to find ones for hydraulic clutches and I need one for a cable clutch. If it's for your Bandit, both CRG and Vortex has solutions. Translated to moon-language: "Ring til de forbandede forbrydere fra Enghave MC, ellers kan Skjern MC sikkert hjælpe, men hvad fanden er der galt med det greb du har?"
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# ? May 27, 2012 09:05 |
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Sir Cornelius posted:If it's for your Bandit, both CRG and Vortex has solutions. Haven't been able to find them. Og det er røv at have små fede pølsefingre.
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# ? May 27, 2012 09:11 |
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KozmoNaut posted:Haven't been able to find them. Lots of levers for tiny fat sausage-fingers: http://motorcycle.motorcycle-superstore.com/motorcycle/Adjustable%20Clutch%20Lever Edit: Link is just to prove that they exist. Do not buy anything from there. They're way too overpriced. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 09:24 on May 27, 2012 |
# ? May 27, 2012 09:19 |
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I'll just have to look harder, then. And stop drunk-calling me <>
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# ? May 27, 2012 09:48 |
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KozmoNaut posted:I'll just have to look harder, then. LOL, I weren't even drunk. Sadly. Tried to call my brother to help me moving something out of your lift capacity I didn't realize I called you.
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# ? May 27, 2012 10:41 |
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Why would my clutch cable keep tightening itself up? (r1100gs)
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# ? May 27, 2012 11:54 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 03:23 |
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thylacine posted:Why would my clutch cable keep tightening itself up? (r1100gs) Because the cable is twisted and/or bend in an odd way. That or gray aliens. Probably gray aliens.
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# ? May 27, 2012 12:14 |