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Olde Weird Tip posted:THIS GUY Poor thing has never been wheelied or to the track or crashed  Breaks my heart. You know what you must do. Congrats.
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May 16, 2012 15:53
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Spiffness posted:Poor thing has never been wheelied or to the track or crashed The brapping will commence over lunch today.
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May 16, 2012 17:19
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Olde Weird Tip posted:The brapping will commence over lunch today. Congrats! Looks great 
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May 16, 2012 19:08
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I just bought a Husqvarna SM610. Literally moments after signing the title and handing over the cash, I bumped it off of the kickstand, snapping the clutch lever.  It was still ridable, but painful in traffic. I could just barely reach the end of it with my index and middle finger, and I didn't have much mechanical advantage over it. "This is an easy to solve problem," thought I. "I'll just throw money at it." I Amazon Prime'd an ASV lever to match my brake lever. The fucker didn't fit! It was designed for a hydraulic clutch, even! poo poo! I turned to Google, and a bunch of people had a bunch of suggestions that all involved replacing the perch, and I didn't cotton to such notions, no sir. I explored a bunch of potential fixes in my mind. Finally, it dawned, on me: pipe! My first instinct was to get some conduit just slightly too small, flare the end, and pound that in place. I saw a pipe nipple at Ace Hardware, however, and decided to go for it. Test fit:  I ground a flat spot and punched it with a center punch (center punching not pictured):  Pilot hole:  Bigger hole:  Used an electric impact gun to drive a stainless steel screw into place:  Promptly torqued it too much and took the head clean off:  No matter. That fucker's not budging. I hit it again with the Dremel to take off any burrs.  Fancy Swedish motorcycle (technically a BMW), big piece of pipe.  It works remarkably well. I couldn't find my hacksaw, so I'm going to see if I can borrow a pipe cutter from a co-worker who probably has one. Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 04:29 on May 17, 2012 |
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May 17, 2012 00:03
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Now, there are a lot of loving retarded things that you can do on a sumo. This might be the dumbest one of all. You do know cheap generic replacement levers are 10 dollars or less right?
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May 17, 2012 00:46
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No, no I did not. Where can I order these cheap replacement levers?
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May 17, 2012 00:52
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http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/MOTION-PRO-CLUTCH-LEVER-POLISHED That's just one example that should fit most dirt bike perches. You can search a bit for one that fits your husky. If you wanna splurge a bit you can find nicer ones but anything has to be better and safer than that pipe!
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May 17, 2012 01:20
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$10 + $4 for shipping like a goddamn barbarian! I just ordered a Moose Shorty Clutch Lever for KTM ALL MECH CLUTCH (M559-50-17). Someone on some forum somewhere says it works. Let's find out.
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May 17, 2012 02:12
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Safety Dance posted:I just bought a Husqvarna SM610. Literally moments after signing the title and handing over the cash, I bumped it off of the kickstand, snapping the clutch lever. Quoted for future generations.
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May 17, 2012 02:36
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Olde Weird Tip posted:Quoted for future generations. Print it out and tack it to your wall, if you want. Intensely stupid idea or not, it was a quick project born out of frustration, and it actually turned out pretty well.
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May 17, 2012 03:12
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I wish I could have recorded my reaction as it went from "hmm how is he going to fix that" to "ok, he's extending the lever" to "lol he left the whole thing on there". Frankly, the fix itself is amazing
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May 17, 2012 04:16
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Like I said, I couldn't find my hacksaw and I didn't feel like burning through a whole drat Dremel cutoff wheel. I'll borrow my buddy's pipecutter, and it'll just work until I find a replacement lever that fits. Edit because I just thought of it: Why to people like shorty levers so much? I really like the stock length (and, it seems, extremely long levers). vvvv That's my new name for them (the 0 times they will ever come up in conversation) Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 04:36 on May 17, 2012 |
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May 17, 2012 04:28
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I always pinch my fingers with shawty levers
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May 17, 2012 04:35
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I was going along with it in a Mad Max sort of way until you sheared the head off the screw and decided to just leave the shaft in place. You know that the head is, like, pretty critical to putting tension on the threads? Without it you've just got a grub screw, basically, and I dunno if I'd trust that to not back itself out in use. And of course there's no real way to tighten it now. Drill that out and put in a proper bolt, though, and it'll be decent. Then do the rest of the bike the same way.
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May 17, 2012 05:59
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Olde Weird Tip posted:THIS GUY Congrats on that clean bike. Mind me asking what you paid for it? I'll guess 3500. That maintenance schedule picture is like porn for the mechanic in me, it's beautiful.
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May 17, 2012 07:43
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Safety Dance posted:Fancy Swedish motorcycle (technically a BMW), big piece of pipe. Well now it's only a matter of time before CRG goes out of business.
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May 17, 2012 10:14
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Sagebrush posted:I was going along with it in a Mad Max sort of way until you sheared the head off the screw and decided to just leave the shaft in place. You know that the head is, like, pretty critical to putting tension on the threads? Without it you've just got a grub screw, basically, and I dunno if I'd trust that to not back itself out in use. And of course there's no real way to tighten it now. If it were a bolt going into a hole I'd drilled and tapped, I'd agree with you all day. The inner diameter of the hole I drilled is just slightly smaller than the minor diameter of the screw. Until creep sets in, you have the friction of the metal displaced by the screw holding it in place. I wouldn't be this cavalier on an actual safety bit, but this is designed to last until I can find an actual replacement lever.
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May 17, 2012 10:20
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velocross posted:Congrats on that clean bike. Mind me asking what you paid for it? I'll guess 3500. That maintenance schedule picture is like porn for the mechanic in me, it's beautiful. They wanted 4K, I worked them down to 3500. I was seriously excited to see that maintenance log. On a bike that is known for being thrashed, its good to know the PO at least gave some sort of a poo poo about maintenance.
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May 17, 2012 14:50
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Olde Weird Tip posted:They wanted 4K, I worked them down to 3500. I had detailed ones for mine but my buyer didn't seem to care at all. A shame really
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May 17, 2012 16:51
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Safety Dance posted:Fancy Swedish motorcycle (technically a BMW), big piece of pipe. Amazing. On a new bike even.
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May 17, 2012 19:18
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KARMA! posted:Amazing. On a new bike even. 2008. Only 1100 miles, though.
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May 17, 2012 19:19
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Having some problems with my DRZ's jetting/carb. I recently replaced my old needle and jets with a Moose racing needle, 155 main jet by DJ, and 25 pilot jet. I also added a Keihin extended mixture screw. Pipe is stock, and I have done the 3x3 mod. It idles fine and revs to 4k with no problems, but once there and all the way to 5.5k it gets really rough until it suddenly takes off and runs smooth the rest of the way up. I am missing the plastic needle spacer as well as one little washer on the needle, so I imagine that is causing some if not all of the problems. Can anyone think of anything else I could look at once I get it off again?
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May 19, 2012 21:35
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The best thing to do with DRZ jetting is hop on thumpertalk and search for burned1/eddie's posts about jetting.
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May 19, 2012 21:37
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Do you have the stock carb or the FCR? Either way, I would go with the James Dean jet kit, as they have instructions for different setups/elevations/etc. Mixing and matching parts like you are is a recipe for a headache.
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May 23, 2012 14:39
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So the plastic bit that holds the tail light on my drz is now broken. I don't know how I broke it, but the area where the screws hold the light onto the plastic has snapped. In any case, I checked out the parts pages on Ron Ayers, but there is no number for the large plastic piece I need... and I don't want to buy a 75 dollar assembly for the two pieces I need. I wonder if I should just somehow frankenstein something together or if that part is actually something I can buy...  Anyone know where I can get this part without buying the whole thing? Resource fucked around with this message at 15:33 on May 23, 2012 |
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May 23, 2012 15:28
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eBay? Are you really sold on the stock light? I'd go for the DRC Edge rather than fixing the stocker.
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May 23, 2012 15:48
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Olde Weird Tip posted:eBay? Oh, I hadn't considered going with something of an upgrade, the light itself (currently installed) is a custom LED set that is super bright, but I suppose at this point I could consider something better looking. Maybe I can take the LEDs from my old light and work them into something like the DRC Edge. Thanks for the idea, I'll look into that too.
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May 23, 2012 16:31
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The Edge really cleans up the tail, and apparently its LED lighting is very good. You cant replace the LED's, at least not in a traditional bulb and socket sense, as they are all soldered onto a PCB that takes up the entirety of the inside of the light housing. Fake Edit: 
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May 23, 2012 17:05
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Olde Weird Tip posted:The Edge really cleans up the tail, and apparently its LED lighting is very good. You cant replace the LED's, at least not in a traditional bulb and socket sense, as they are all soldered onto a PCB that takes up the entirety of the inside of the light housing. I have one of these on my wr250, and yes. It's awesome.
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May 23, 2012 18:14
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This thread needs to be off page two. Tried out some GoPro mounts today on the DRZ: Suction cup to clutch cover:   And suction cup to radiator cowl: 
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May 30, 2012 04:34
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Olde Weird Tip posted:This thread needs to be off page two. you're brave, i'm afraid to use the suction cup on my drz since my kayak incident nowhere seems flat enough to give a comfortable grip. and doesnt the clutch cover get too hot?
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May 30, 2012 15:23
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echomadman posted:you're brave, i'm afraid to use the suction cup on my drz since my kayak incident nowhere seems flat enough to give a comfortable grip. and doesnt the clutch cover get too hot? On the radiator cowl, it goes right smack in the middle, basically over the S. On the clutch cover, I dunno, it got hot, but not what I would consider "too hot". It vibes a lot on the clutch cover though, so the video isnt as good from there.
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May 30, 2012 16:27
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I had to watch that three or four times to realize that it just fell off on its own, cause drat does it ever look like you're starting a roll.
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May 30, 2012 16:43
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Gnaghi posted:My only concern, other then the fuel pump going as it is a 2008 with 8k miles, is that he replaced the sprockets. The stock rear has a rubber outlining the teeth which I'm guessing is the cush drive? The replacement sprocket doesn't have this though, shouldn't it be replaced post-haste? I don't want to have to order connecting rods for two supermotos now. No idea what the rubber is about. It's probably some crazy business used to reduce the driveby noise in EPA testing. Definitely replace that fuel pump before you do a big ride or anything. You're going to get the most out of that WR with gearing more along the lines of 14/52. The bike makes peak power very close to redline, so that kind of gearing will give you the most pull from 65 to 85mph, at which point it has nothing more to give anyway. If the vibes bother you, get some ManicSalamander bar-end weights. MotoMind fucked around with this message at 17:50 on May 30, 2012 |
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May 30, 2012 17:48
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Gnaghi posted:My only concern, other then the fuel pump going as it is a 2008 with 8k miles, is that he replaced the sprockets. The stock rear has a rubber outlining the teeth which I'm guessing is the cush drive? The replacement sprocket doesn't have this though, shouldn't it be replaced post-haste? I don't want to have to order connecting rods for two supermotos now. The rubber around the rear sprocket is to quiet the chain. The cush drive will be in the wheel hub if there is one. The aftermarket sprockets with no rubber will only result in slightly louder chain noise.
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May 31, 2012 15:07
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^^Good to hear about the rubber. The previous owner said it was rubbing on the swingarm and generally being lovely. The chain isn't even that noisy. MotoMind posted:No idea what the rubber is about. It's probably some crazy business used to reduce the driveby noise in EPA testing. Why the 14 in front, just to reduce chain wear? I have the original sprockets, so I could probably throw the 13 back on with little to no adjustment. Also the previous owner had the masterlink clip on backwards. As for the fuel pump, I actually wasn't going to replace it because many of them never go at all. When they do it doesn't actually just stop working. It will overheat and need time to cool down and that cool-down time is only like 40 minutes. $200 is a lot to spend for peace of mind, but I'll probably still do it before going over 100 miles or anything.
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May 31, 2012 22:12
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14 up front because of a bad experience I had with chain slider wear with a 13T. The achilles heel of the WRs is wear on the underside of the chain slider just behind the pivot point. If you don't catch it in time, the chain will eat the underside of your swingarm. It seems to be tied to some magical blend of chain tension, suspension settings, and load. Mostly the last for me, since I had the bike fully loaded. I think around town 13 is fine for most people, 12 dubious except for occasional use. But still check your slider from time to time. Look carefully. One way or another the sweet spot for performance on a WR is going to be a gearing ratio around 0.27. Aggressive, yes, but I fully believe in using the whole RPM range on a 250 like the WR. The stock is 0.3 and that's dogshit.
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Jun 1, 2012 01:44
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I might try the 13 but honestly I'm not feeling like I need more power on that bike. I did an indicated 70, whatever that is 65 or so, and it felt fine. It will wheelie in 1st easy enough and probably 2nd if I sit farther back/pull up harder and it passes cars quick provided I shift a lot. It only feels slow if I actually try to go fast, because it feels like I'm about to hit the powerband and instead I hit the rev limiter.  The one complaint I do have about it is those front brakes. I'm pretty spoiled with the Husky's brembo but the WRX has some wooden brakes. Going from the stock 110/60 to a distanza 120/70 has made it worse. Good news is the "recommended" stainless lines and pads (goodridge and Ferado HH) are $70 combined.
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Jun 1, 2012 11:32
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Gnaghi posted:Good news is the "recommended" stainless lines and pads (goodridge and Ferado HH) are $70 combined. From where? And do they have a setup for DRZ's? I just put a $40 set of pads on the DRZ, and I cant imagine getting a SS front line for $30.
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Jun 1, 2012 14:19
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Olde Weird Tip posted:From where? And do they have a setup for DRZ's? I just put a $40 set of pads on the DRZ, and I cant imagine getting a SS front line for $30. I'd like to know this too, I got Galfers SS lines for my ninja and it was a bit more pricey than 70 dollars, might be nice to have that on the DRZ too. In other news, the tail light came in the mail. The only part I'm not sure about is the best way to hook up the wiring... but, how hard could it be?
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Jun 1, 2012 14:23
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