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Fixed Gear Guy posted:Hey there's a CA IRC!? Details please!? When you get in there, don't flip on the lights. Horror.
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Jun 15, 2012 02:29
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mootmoot posted:This is something called a 'choke': Pull the choke towards you before you start the bike. Mine has an extra bit that it travels at the end, and I have to pull on it pretty hard to get it fully engaged. Start the bike and let it idle for a bit with the choke on. I put the choke partway back forward and let it idle a bit more, then when it's warmed up, push it all the way forward and you're good to go.
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Jun 15, 2012 04:12
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You guys said it was cool to leave a battery on a trickle charger a long time right? Going to europe next friday for a month and I dont want to come back to dead batteries.
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Jun 15, 2012 05:44
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Tenchrono posted:You guys said it was cool to leave a battery on a trickle charger a long time right? Going to europe next friday for a month and I dont want to come back to dead batteries. That's fine, your battery will be good to go. Is your place unattended? If so I would personally consider a battery hooked up to a trickle charger unattended for a month to be a bit of a fire hazard. Not sure what the consensus is on that though.
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Jun 15, 2012 05:47
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front wing flexing posted:That's fine, your battery will be good to go. Is your place unattended? If so I would personally consider a battery hooked up to a trickle charger unattended for a month to be a bit of a fire hazard. Not sure what the consensus is on that though. Nope, will have my brothers here. But they have no mechanical inclination and I really dont trust them with my bike. Thanks for the speedy answer though!
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Jun 15, 2012 05:49
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front wing flexing posted:That's fine, your battery will be good to go. Is your place unattended? If so I would personally consider a battery hooked up to a trickle charger unattended for a month to be a bit of a fire hazard. Not sure what the consensus is on that though. Is it a standard trickle charger or something like a Battery Tender? Battery Tenders and their ilk switch to maintenance when the battery's full up and should be safe to leave on for a very long time.
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Jun 15, 2012 05:51
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Continuous 2v trickle charger I believe. I can check thr box after Enter the Dragon is over.
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Jun 15, 2012 06:00
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So I bought my first bike, a bright yellow SV650 K4 (naked) but it seems the previous owner thought it would be funny to remove the baffles from the Viper can it's got on it. What's the best option for making the bike quiet(er) again? It's absolutely killing my ears at the moment, even with foam plugs in  I've seen these noise reduction kits which seem pretty idiot proof and like they would be good for a short term fix; http://tinyurl.com/7hhs9hf In the long term I'd like to replace the Viper completely but I'm a bit low on funds this month!
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Jun 15, 2012 13:58
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Yeah that's pretty much the cheapest option to start with.
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Jun 15, 2012 15:28
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ReformedNiceGuy posted:So I bought my first bike, a bright yellow SV650 K4 (naked) but it seems the previous owner thought it would be funny to remove the baffles from the Viper can it's got on it. I did warn you!  Yes, decibel eater. I assume you measured the top to make sure it will fit and have a drill handy? e: alternatively you can probably buy an original can off ebay and subsequently sell the viper for about the same amount. If the Viper is NOT e-marked / has "not for road use" on it, that's what I'd do. Then decide if you want a "smart" aftermarket can some time down the road. Saga fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Jun 15, 2012 |
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Jun 15, 2012 15:32
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ReformedNiceGuy posted:So I bought my first bike, a bright yellow SV650 K4 (naked) but it seems the previous owner thought it would be funny to remove the baffles from the Viper can it's got on it. I'm sure somebody local would do a stock+cash for your can, or otherwise check if the PO has the baffle floating around somewhere. It's not really something you chuck away.
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Jun 15, 2012 15:39
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My GS500 is insured for $1400/yr (which is a joke because in Canada one can only really ride 8 months per year), and I'm after a Shadow 750, and I called my insurance company, and it would be $2400/yr. $2400/yr    Edit for context: Ontario licensing goes M1 for 3 months, M2 for 18 months, then full M license thereafter, and there are tests to jump to each of these. I'm 29, have an M2, no crash history. What I'm saying is I'm not a 19 year old with a litrebike and a learners permit. gently caress insurance. epswing fucked around with this message at 15:54 on Jun 15, 2012 |
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Jun 15, 2012 15:44
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epswing posted:My GS500 is insured for $1400/yr (which is a joke because in Canada one can only really ride 8 months per year), and I'm after a Shadow 750, and I called my insurance company, and it would be $2400/yr. Haha what the gently caress? I have a Shadow 1100 and I spend something like $500/year for full coverage. This is in Chicago, so from Thanksgiving to early March I can't ride either.
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Jun 15, 2012 15:47
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epswing posted:My GS500 is insured for $1400/yr (which is a joke because in Canada one can only really ride 8 months per year), and I'm after a Shadow 750, and I called my insurance company, and it would be $2400/yr. That's more than my car's insurance. 
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Jun 15, 2012 15:47
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Saga posted:I did warn you! I know, I know, but the free service, MOT and two year warranty sold it for me! Apart from the ridiculously loud exhaust it's absolutely brilliant to ride, to me anyway  Unfortunately the PO isn't an option, I bought it from a dealership and the PO had somehow managed to lose the baffles, owners manual and spare keys! I'm not to be trusted with power tools but I know a man that can
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Jun 15, 2012 15:53
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epswing posted:My GS500 is insured for $1400/yr (which is a joke because in Canada one can only really ride 8 months per year), and I'm after a Shadow 750, and I called my insurance company, and it would be $2400/yr. State farm in Ontario? gtamotorcycle.com has a good forum about motorcycle insurance options in Ontario. Might want to have a look there.
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Jun 15, 2012 15:54
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ReformedNiceGuy posted:I know, I know, but the free service, MOT and two year warranty sold it for me! Mate, if the dealer sold it to you it has to be legal to ride on the road (fit for purpose). Demand that they fit you the baffle, it's clearly not road legal if it hurts your ears with plugs. I'm embarassed to say how much I pay for insurance, but have to bite the bullet in London when you're <25 and have something desirable. So is life.
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Jun 15, 2012 16:13
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ReformedNiceGuy posted:I know, I know, but the free service, MOT and two year warranty sold it for me! I figured they gave you a deal. And it's a very nice looking example... Did you get them to give you an HPI printout? Most of them are on dealernet or whatever it's called and can do it for free (or pennies). I ask because of the lack of keys, manuals or spares. Sounds like an auction or a stolen recovered bike, but as long as there's nothing on the HPI who gives a poo poo. _Dav, if the can isn't marked not for road use, they just have to say their MOT tester thought it was fine. It's a subjective test on noise still AFAIK. But in any case it's hardly worth the argument when a baffle is £8.50. If it is marked "not for road use" I agree it's well cheeky, but again the aggro isn't worth it - he can sell it for £30 on e-bay and buy an original can for the same sort of money.
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Jun 15, 2012 16:23
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epswing posted:$2400/yr I'm in the same licensing situation as you and currently pay 1700 a year for my CL350. A 40 year old 325cc standard. And that is partly because there is literally one company in the entire country that will even insure that bike; all the others I tried said "sorry, that bike is too old". Forget collision insurance, none of them will even consider that -- for some reason most of the companies won't give you liability insurance on a 40 year old motorcycle. Why that should make any difference whatsoever I have no loving idea. e: one year's insurance costs more than the purchase price of the bike, all the money I put into restoring it, the safety and inspection and licensing fees, and all the gas money I have spent so far It's pretty much the most blatant gouge imaginable because the insurance companies don't even have to pay for (much of) your healthcare up here, and you sure aren't going to cause more damage to someone else with a motorcycle than you are with a car. They just charge because, as I mentioned, they divide up who can underwrite what so you have as few options as possible for your particular situation. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Jun 15, 2012 |
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Jun 15, 2012 16:35
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Boru posted:That's more than my car's insurance. That is more than my insurance for two cars and two bikes.
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Jun 15, 2012 16:51
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Gay Nudist Dad posted:Hey 2-stroke people Anybody? Hopefully mootmoot doesn't post after this!
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Jun 15, 2012 16:58
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Saga posted:I figured they gave you a deal. And it's a very nice looking example... Yeah it is HPI clear, that would have been a red flag even to me And what you say up there ^^ about their own MOT tester giving it the all clear is pretty much word for how it went down. Going back to the original question, will a properly measured up and fitted baffle insert do the job then? For a tenner I'm kind of expecting something made out of tin foil!
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Jun 15, 2012 17:18
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ReformedNiceGuy posted:So I bought my first bike, a bright yellow SV650 K4 (naked) but it seems the previous owner thought it would be funny to remove the baffles from the Viper can it's got on it. Where are you located? I have a stock pipe that I'm not using.
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Jun 15, 2012 17:38
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Gay Nudist Dad posted:Anybody? Hopefully mootmoot doesn't post after this! 2. Dunno. 240 degrees F is considered the high end of the OK zone in water cooled engines. That's all I got for ya.
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Jun 15, 2012 17:43
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bladesamurai posted:Where are you located? I have a stock pipe that I'm not using. Near the airport in Leeds.
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Jun 15, 2012 19:09
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A few weeks ago, I tried taking off the master cylinder off one of my SV650's. There are two 8mm bolts holding the MC onto the handlebars. The bottom bolt unscrewed fine, but the top bolt refused to budge. I ended up rounding it off with a wrench, and decided to leave the MC alone. Now, I want to clean/rebuild the MC. But that bolt is not unscrewing itself. How do I get it out? kinda in a tight place: 
the walkin dude fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Jun 15, 2012 |
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Jun 15, 2012 19:55
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You could try soaking it in WD or another penetrating lubricant (ha) then using a hammer to smack a socket on it. That's worked a few times for me when working on cars.
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Jun 15, 2012 20:04
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I'd say just destroy the poo poo out of it with a pair of channel locks but it doesn't look like you have the clearance for that. I'd drill out the bolt head and then just use channel locks to twist out the remainder of the bolt from the MC.
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Jun 15, 2012 20:06
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It doesn't look that rounded off to me. Get a 6-point 8mm wrench instead of a 12-point and give it a go with a hammer. The MC on my Bandit is identical and it took some persuadin' to get those bolts removed the first time. Remember to give the thread a dab of copper grease when you reassemble.
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Jun 15, 2012 20:08
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Get it loose enough with the other bolt, remove throttle grip, slide it off the handlebars. Once it's off the pieces push together and you get a better grip. You're removing the brake line anyway for the rebuild I suppose. I'd give it a go with some pliers first, if they fit. Tighten the other bolt a bit first so the two pieces aren't jamming the bolt.
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Jun 15, 2012 20:12
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Ok, I just sprayed WD-40 around the edges of the bolt head, dug through my toolkit and found a 6-point 8mm socket, hammered it onto the bolt, and forced it loose with a ratchet wrench. Thanks guys  loving 12 pointers, cluttering up my toolkit.Crossposting from the Sv thread: I have a K&L master cylinder rebuild kit. What I'd do would be: drain the whole front brakes of brake fluid, detach the MC, take it apart and use brake cleaner to spray down the parts, clean off them, and replace parts as indicated in the rebuild kit, reassembling backwards. Correct, yeah?
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Jun 15, 2012 20:24
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the walkin dude posted:Ok, I just sprayed WD-40 around the edges of the bolt head, dug through my toolkit and found a 6-point 8mm socket, hammered it onto the bolt, and forced it loose with a ratchet wrench. Thanks guys Brake cleaner is for disks and pads, use fresh clean brake fluid to clean the MC i cant imagine brake cleaner being good for seals. the procedure is in pages 6-51 to 6-53 in the factory service manual
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Jun 15, 2012 20:54
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the walkin dude posted:loving 12 pointers, cluttering up my toolkit. I agree -- those things are satan's work. Even the 12-point box-end wrenches kind of suck for anything where more than a little torque is involved. I think I've removed more skin from my knuckles than I have nuts from studs using 12-points. 6 point sockets and standard open-end wrenches for me, thanks.
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Jun 15, 2012 21:02
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the walkin dude posted:Ok, I just sprayed WD-40 around the edges of the bolt head, dug through my toolkit and found a 6-point 8mm socket, hammered it onto the bolt, and forced it loose with a ratchet wrench. Thanks guys Now that you have the bolts off you can throw them away. Replace them with allen head bolts and never have an issue with rounded bolt heads again.
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Jun 15, 2012 21:04
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Sagebrush posted:I agree -- those things are satan's work. Even the 12-point box-end wrenches kind of suck for anything where more than a little torque is involved. I think I've removed more skin from my knuckles than I have nuts from studs using 12-points. I got told plenty of times back in school that since all the torque is at the corners, it doesn't actually make a difference if you use a 6 or 12 point socket, they're both as likely to round a bolt head. Fake edit: Wikipedia seems to back me up, fwiw. "A common misconception is that a 12-point socket is more likely to round off the corners of a nut or bolt than a 6-point socket. In fact, since the torque is applied at the corners of the fastener, the two sockets have the same number of contact points, apply the same amount of torque, and one is no more likely to round off the corners than another."
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Jun 15, 2012 21:08
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Nidhg00670000 posted:I got told plenty of times back in school that since all the torque is at the corners, it doesn't actually make a difference if you use a 6 or 12 point socket, they're both as likely to round a bolt head. That statement, which is straight from a "all bodies are a massless perfect sphere operating in a frictionless environment" physics problem, is actually saying "a 12 point fastener can provide the same torque as a 6 point fastener." How much torque the tool can apply is related to how likely it is to slip, but that's not the actual problem at hand. See, in real life, wrenches will always have some play around the fastener they're working on, and older tools will be looser than brand new ones. Old fasteners are rarely perfect, sharp-edged hexagons either. A 6-point tool fits a 6-point wrench as closely as possible. A 12-point socket is basically a 6-pointer with an extra corner ground into the middle of each flat. As a result, it requires closer tolerances between the tool and fastener to prevent slipping. Look at this picture, and imagine how much the wrench would have to "stretch" or how squashed the corner of the bolt would have to be in each situation for slippage to occur, and you'll see what I mean.  In a perfect world with perfect tools and new bolts, sure, they're both the same. Anecdotally, using old tools and squishy old rusted bolts? 6-points work better.
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Jun 15, 2012 21:26
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Collateral Damage posted:Now that you have the bolts off you can throw them away. Replace them with allen head bolts and never have an issue with rounded bolt heads again. This sounds like more of a tool quality issue than a bolt type issue.
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Jun 15, 2012 21:30
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WD40 sucks for stuck bolts, get a real penetrating lube.
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Jun 15, 2012 21:41
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n8r posted:WD40 sucks for stuck bolts, get a real penetrating lube. This... Pb blaster or whatever is magic.
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Jun 15, 2012 22:08
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Z3n posted:This sounds like more of a tool quality issue than a bolt type issue.
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Jun 15, 2012 22:10
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