|
Those wheels look great. My black 2010 Speed3 is still stock (and always looks dirty, wish I bought white) and I've got a $500 gift card at my dealership for referring somebody to them. Should I save it for oil changes or does Mazdaspeed have any fun bolt ons?
|
#
?
May 7, 2012 16:46
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 23:32 |
|
|
Shoota_McG posted:Those wheels look great. Could you use it to pay for labor to have them install aftermarket parts? If not, I would use it for tires, you can probably buy your tires through the dealership. I wouldn't use it for oil changes, just DIY your oil changes, these cars are stupid easy to change the oil on, you'll save money, and have better oil in your car than what they'd put in it. Brain Issues fucked around with this message at 21:47 on May 7, 2012 |
|
#
?
May 7, 2012 21:44
|
|
|
Brain Issues posted:Could you use it to pay for labor to have them install aftermarket parts? If not, I would use it for tires, you can probably buy your tires through the dealership. I wouldn't use it for oil changes, just DIY your oil changes, these cars are stupid easy to change the oil on, you'll save money, and have better oil in your car than what they'd put in it. I probably could use it for straight labour. I already buy tires wholesale through my uncle.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2012 05:50
|
|
|
Shoota_McG posted:Those wheels look great. Some dealers sell Cobb parts, so check with them and see if you can pick up an Accessport. So my e-brake light's always on again and fluid level is low. Last time I posted about it, it was indeed low so flushed the brake fluid and topped it off, then the light went away. I haven't seen a loss in braking but I'm scared as hell of risking something happening, so I wanna get this sorted out ASAP. What else should I check? I'm sitting at about 73k miles, so could it be my slave cylinder going out?
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2012 13:28
|
|
|
Do they still sell a CAI for the 10+ models? I'd use the certificate on that.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2012 14:31
|
|
|
SynMoo posted:Mid-to-high teens. Go for 08 or newer if possible. Any reason to avoid the 07s aside from the interior changes?
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2012 01:15
|
|
|
Early '07s had the original version of the turbo which is somewhat more prone to smoking, but in practice it's still a rare occurrence.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2012 01:38
|
|
|
So the saga continues. I topped off, got the light again today. There's brake fluid all over my undertray, so I definitely have a leak somewhere and I need help diagnosing. The clutch pedal doesn't stick to the floor and it still springs upward away from the firewall as it should. e: I took a closer look at my slave cylinder, and it matches the photo in this thread when clutch is not depressed. I'll have to find someone to depress the clutch while I take a look. Maybe I've got an excuse to get stainless steel brake lines now. air- fucked around with this message at 15:37 on May 21, 2012 |
|
#
?
May 21, 2012 15:35
|
|
|
Dealer is saying my MS6 front left lower control arm bushing is causing the weird rubbing noise I'm hearing at all speeds when its hot out. They want like 400+ bux to fix it. I need to find a nicer garage somewhere around here. Might just try tossing a shitload of grease over everything. Seems like this last winter made everything squeak. Any grease suggestions?
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2012 22:40
|
|
|
I pulled out in front of a truck that was going considerably faster than I thought, so I stepped on it a little bit. Checking my mirror to see if I was going to die, I saw what I assume to be smoke in the the guy's headlights. I know turbos smoking is coming on our cars, but is it typical (and harmless) under brief heavy acceleration? This is the first time I've seen smoke, so I'm worried my turbo might be going out.  For info: 08.5 speed, cobb sri, inlet, cp-e hffp, cobb dp and ap stage 2+93.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2012 13:11
|
|
|
Sublime Process posted:I pulled out in front of a truck that was going considerably faster than I thought, so I stepped on it a little bit. Checking my mirror to see if I was going to die, I saw what I assume to be smoke in the the guy's headlights. They run pig rich at WOT, so it's pretty normal to see a puff of black smoke when standing on it like that. My 08.5 does it too, and I'm pretty much stock.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2012 13:22
|
|
|
Yeah if you haven't got on it in awhile and then you lay into the gas you're going to see some smoke. I believe some of that is the increased pressure burning off the carbon that has built up. The smoking turbo issue is white smoke. Big plumes of black smoke from the tailpipe is just part of the experience. 
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2012 15:18
|
|
|
Yep, my '07 did the same thing once, and I've got no real oil consumption unless I run 5w30 instead of 10w30 (in which case it's about a half quart per oil change).
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2012 15:30
|
|
|
Bovril Delight posted:Do they still sell a CAI for the 10+ models? I'd use the certificate on that. I asked the parts guy and he said Mazda hasn't made any parts for the 2010s...so I dunno, he's probably not the guy to ask. So I got nothing but had them replace the headlight lenses (HIDs had fogged the lenses) and the dash trim just right of the CD player was popping out. I believe both were TSBs.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2012 22:11
|
|
|
Bovril Delight posted:Yeah if you haven't got on it in awhile and then you lay into the gas you're going to see some smoke. I believe some of that is the increased pressure burning off the carbon that has built up. Given the time frame (~8pm/dusk) and my rear window is tinted (15%) I couldn't tell what color the smoke was. I'm hoping for it to just be black.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2012 23:51
|
|
|
Whats the mileage like? I've changed a few front sway bar links on higher mileage 6's for weird squeeking/creaking issues, but I have seen those lower control arm boots split where they go into the knuckle. Rubbing noise could just be a tire noise if yours are cupped at all. It's a rubbing noise and not a squeek/creak? Laranzu posted:Dealer is saying my MS6 front left lower control arm bushing is causing the weird rubbing noise I'm hearing at all speeds when its hot out. They want like 400+ bux to fix it. I need to find a nicer garage somewhere around here.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2012 01:06
|
|
|
Sublime Process posted:Given the time frame (~8pm/dusk) and my rear window is tinted (15%) I couldn't tell what color the smoke was. I'm hoping for it to just be black. With the situation you described I imagine it was just the built up carbon burning off. I wouldn't worry.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2012 03:32
|
|
|
WOT will generate black smoke, it's awesome. In my experience, the white smoke was more of an idling thing, like you'd start the car up and it would warm up then start smoking.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2012 03:37
|
|
|
mp5_smg posted:Whats the mileage like? I've changed a few front sway bar links on higher mileage 6's for weird squeeking/creaking issues, but I have seen those lower control arm boots split where they go into the knuckle. Rubbing noise could just be a tire noise if yours are cupped at all. It's a rubbing noise and not a squeek/creak? 60,000 Miles. Tires seem fine. Probably more of a squeak/creak. Has to be warm out, happens when turning the wheel at any speed. I haven't gotten under it to see exactly what the heck they were referencing when they said "damaged control arm". HArd to do in an apartment complex without someone getting angry about it.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2012 05:06
|
|
|
Given my mods (listed above) at what point would you recommend changing my plugs from stock? I'm at 51,5xx miles right now, so I'm sure they need changed at some point anyways right? Also, on one tank of gas back in March, I got a P0133 CEL that came on twice in a week. I cleared it and hasn't happened since. I attributed it to bad gas. Now Friday it came back on. Car is acting fine and it hasn't come back on since then either. Could my O2 be going bad or just picking up a reading it doesn't like?
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2012 17:35
|
|
|
So here's a weird one. Power outlet in my center console (2007 MS3) is completely dead. Nothing I plug into it works, it all works plugged into the lighter socket in front of the shifter. Checked the fuse, looked good, swapped with the fuse for the fog lights anyway (same 15A fuse) and no change to the fog lights so I know the fuse is good. Where else to look?
|
|
#
?
Jun 16, 2012 04:40
|
|
|
I'd check the outlet itself. The contact in the bottom might be worn down far enough that the plugs aren't making contact. Hit it with a meter or test light and see if you've got juice.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2012 17:28
|
|
|
So I finally saw another MS6 while driving mine yesterday. I honked and waved and got this look of total bewilderment from the other driver.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2012 17:50
|
|
|
I had a UOA done with Blackstone Labs to see if I could put more mileage in between oil changes. As I suspected, with my pretty short trips around town I have some fuel-dilution. I also did some searching regarding the copper content and this appears to be pretty common with the other MS3s I found. I guess I'm still breaking the motor in? Blackstone thinks I could try doing a 5500 mi oil change interval, but that seems a little crazy to me given: 1) the reduced flash point from fuel dilution 2) reduced viscosity What do you guys think?  Here are some other MS3 UOAs: MS3 guy with high copper (79ppm) http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=985760&fpart=1 Another MS3 with copper coming down http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1984822 Another high copper http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f10/mazdaspeed-3-6-uoa-results-20783/ http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1941695
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2012 22:17
|
|
|
They can be a bit aggressive on their idea of mileage estimates. At one point they told me to try 10k on a change (I do almost 100% highway) it was very obviously a bit too done; I noticed a lot more buildup on the inside of the filter housing and their UOA reults confirmed that it had been run too far. I do my changes at right around 7500 miles, if only because at a certain point the money that may be saved by running a bit longer is offset by my nervousness for the engine's longevity by doing so.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2012 22:23
|
|
|
I agree that their suggestion sounds pretty aggressive. I might try 5000 mi. this time and see how it goes.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2012 22:30
|
|
|
I use Pennzoil Platinum synthetic and have never had an issue with fuel dilution, for what it's worth. How many miles on your car? Under Blackstone's suggestions, I'm running around a 5-6k OCI and haven't had any issues.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2012 01:10
|
|
|
Sublime Process posted:I use Pennzoil Platinum synthetic and have never had an issue with fuel dilution, for what it's worth. How many miles on your car? Ditto, love PP in my MS3, though I only go around 4k or so since I do a lot of city driving. Haven't done a UOA in a while, I'll probably do one next change to see how it's been holding up. 31K total now.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2012 01:40
|
|
|
Forgot to mention that I too am on Pennzoil Platinum and/or Ultra, whatever I can get at the time. I have noticed that I consume about 1 qt every 3-4k miles if I go with a 5w30, but 10w30 I have nearly zero consumption.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2012 02:31
|
|
|
I didn't realize that my total mileage wasn't on that report. I have ~27,000 miles on the odometer right now. I'm using Shell Rotella 5w40 synthetic and I'm pretty happy with it. I haven't noticed any lost/burned oil between oil changes. The fuel dilution isn't a function of the oil used (or it shouldn't be unless you're oil's completely broken down and you've destroyed the rings. It's more a matter of that I now live near downtown and very close to where I work. So, any driving I do is very short. Fortunately, I'm not a fatass so I walk or ride a bicycle to work. For the most part my car sits in the garage plugged into a battery tender.Most of my driving is long enough for the coolant to come up to temp, but probably not long enough for the oil to come up to operating temperature. So in this condition, even though I'm not beating on the car in any way, but because the MZR runs pig rich and it's direct injected you'll get some fuel washing down the cylinder walls over time. I'm sure that if my driving style was more like IOwnCalculus I wouldn't have that particular issue. I'm more curious about the copper content. If any of you guys have UOAs and the corresponding mileage for them, I'd love to see them.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2012 02:56
|
|
|
I was wrong, it wasn't 10k miles on my too-long interval - it was about 9k. This is from that change, plus two more prior also shown: I haven't done a UOA on the car since. I'm now just past 109k.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2012 03:04
|
|
|
Update on my leaking clutch fluid: turns out it's my slave cylinder. I guess that makes sense at about 74k miles.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2012 03:43
|
|
|
Replaced my driver's side HID bulb tonight - nearly 18 months after the passenger side. I've never had two same-batch bulbs fail that far apart...on my Miata if one went, the other went within days. Two things that came to mind while doing the job: 1) When I removed the undertray bolts, a little rubber elbow dropped out - maybe 3/8" ID, with baffles in one end and a bit of foam in the other? Does this even belong to the MS3 or is it some random garbage picked up that goes with the cigarette butts the car seems to collect in the same spot? 2) How much clatter is normal on a cold(ish) start? I fired it up and could've sworn I heard a little for the first fraction of a second, but then again I rarely start it with the door open and I've had plenty of engines (see: that Miata) clatter for longer after startup since day one that have no problems. I just really don't want to end up being one of the folks changing out a timing chain... partly because gently caress doing that job, I am paying someone to fix that.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2012 06:31
|
|
|
My 2010 Speed has started smoking under idle. Got an appointment for tomorrow morning. Thought this wasn't an issue anymore. I'm running 5w30, think they'll hassle me over that?
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2012 22:41
|
|
|
I thought 5w30 was the official oil you're supposed to be running? I run 10w30 because I get a bit less consumption, though I'd probably run 10w40 if I could readily get Pennzoil Platinum in that weight.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2012 22:54
|
|
|
SynMoo posted:My 2010 Speed has started smoking under idle. Got an appointment for tomorrow morning. Thought this wasn't an issue anymore. I'm running 5w30, think they'll hassle me over that? My 07 MS6 did that two weeks ago. They replaced it under the extended warranty without even asking me poo poo about maintenance history. I guess it just depends on your dealer.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2012 23:07
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:2) How much clatter is normal on a cold(ish) start? I fired it up and could've sworn I heard a little for the first fraction of a second, but then again I rarely start it with the door open and I've had plenty of engines (see: that Miata) clatter for longer after startup since day one that have no problems. I just really don't want to end up being one of the folks changing out a timing chain... partly because gently caress doing that job, I am paying someone to fix that. Sounds like it may be the VVT issue http://www.rent-a-tech.org/ssp%2087.pdf
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2012 23:40
|
|
|
opengl128 posted:Sounds like it may be the VVT issue That's what I'm worried about, but it was only for the tiniest fraction of a second and I don't have any sign of it after that - at idle or at speed. Plus, I'm now nearly 40k past their extended warranty, so if I do end up with a chain / VVT issue, I'm paying for it out of pocket. I saw some mention on the various Mazda boards about poking the chain through the oil filler to see about slack. I might do that soon to see if I should save another $1k for that job. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Jun 21, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2012 23:45
|
|
|
I thought 5W-30 was the correct oil for Gen 1. Once the turbo started smoking they changed to 0W-30 or something similar. If the turbo stop smoking at that point they called it done. If it kept smoking, then they replaced the turbo. It was my understanding that whatever weight oil stopped the smoking became the standard oil for Gen 2. I had made a decision early on to go with 5W-30 assuming they fixed the turbo problem by other means and only wanted the thinner weight oil to increase efficiency or something similar. Guess we'll see tomorrow. E: wow I just let out a ton of blueish smoke on a warm start after sitting for an hour. Awesome. E2: I can hear the turbo spoiling loudly. Sounds like a crappy supercharger in pain. I think this one is done. SynMoo fucked around with this message at 23:56 on Jun 21, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2012 23:45
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 23:32 |
|
|
SynMoo posted:I thought 5W-30 was the correct oil for Gen 1. Once the turbo started smoking they changed to 0W-30 or something similar. If the turbo stop smoking at that point they called it done. If it kept smoking, then they replaced the turbo. It was my understanding that whatever weight oil stopped the smoking became the standard oil for Gen 2. I had made a decision early on to go with 5W-30 assuming they fixed the turbo problem by other means and only wanted the thinner weight oil to increase efficiency or something similar. They still call for 5w30 in the Gen2 Speed3s but there is a TSB stating to use 5w40 if the smoking issue occurs. I've just been running Rotella T6 5w40 since my 2nd oil change even though I never got the problem (yet).
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2012 23:48
|
|