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How ridiculous is getting NB leather seats re-upholstered?
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Jun 19, 2012 05:46
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| # ? May 16, 2024 12:26 |
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GD_American posted:How ridiculous is getting NB leather seats re-upholstered? I would do it in a second. You can get a buttextomy at the same time if you have a freakishly long body or head.
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Jun 19, 2012 14:54
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GD_American posted:How ridiculous is getting NB leather seats re-upholstered? Depending on where you are, you can find a Clasic Soft Trim branch that may be able to do it for cheap. There are two mass producers of leather kits for modern cars, Katzkin and Roadwire. A 4 seat car ran about $1000 for leather installed. You might go get some quotes from shops and see if its less than that, you probably get a deal. Leather, real leather, is obviously from a cow and expensive. Even mass produced leather kits are mostly vynil with the major panels being leather. If the seats arent destroyed you can do "panel replacement" if you find an upholsterer willing to do it. there might be a mismatch in the color just a bit, but cheap is cheap. I've installed at least 50 miata tops of all kinds. Ask me if you need a tip.
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Jun 20, 2012 05:24
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They're in rough shape as far as cracking, creasing and discoloring. They haven't torn at all until just recently (and only in one small spot), but the fact that this thing has been my daily driver and hauler for six years means these seats have had it.
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Jun 20, 2012 05:30
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http://classicsofttrim.com/contact-locations.php See if you can find a shop/distributor near you and get a quote. They will not sell the kits to you direct. http://katzkin.com/ Same deal pretty much, different face. Quotes from a custom shop will probably run above $1000. I have a sewing machine and am semi-compitent, i do this stuff on the side and try to do it cheap, i know the market price for upholstery tends to make it a non-factor for most people with real life budgets, its kinda lame.
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Jun 20, 2012 05:35
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GD_American posted:They're in rough shape as far as cracking, creasing and discoloring. They haven't torn at all until just recently (and only in one small spot), but the fact that this thing has been my daily driver and hauler for six years means these seats have had it. Have you checked ebay for seats? You might be able to find a nice leather set that was barely used and it would be like having brand new seats. You could always go cloth too, that's an option if you want to save some money. And honestly cloth is better for southern states IMO.
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Jun 20, 2012 05:59
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I.L. Motorsport have some nice looking and reasonably priced leather seat covers: http://www.ilmotorsport.de/shop/article_detail.php5?aid=419&oid=1411&depth=3&page=1&count=15&PHPSESSID=a419de8aa97d3f5ad6b5a98a4c43e23f
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Jun 20, 2012 10:10
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Welp I'm not longer going to be part of the miata army, dude came by last night and agreed to buy my NA. $3600, pretty happy with that since it's more than I paid for it, he was thrilled with the car overall.  Good night, sweet prince
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Jun 20, 2012 14:04
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What's the current hot ticket for street wheels/tires? I've been running 185/60/14 Star Specs on my 14x5.5 NA rims. A 15x8 6UL with 205/50 star specs? Or RE011s? Stock NA, not high power or anything just suspension mods.
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Jun 20, 2012 14:45
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Viper915 posted:It's here! But due to something that sprung up at work, I won't be able to install it until mid August Nice set. The FM rear spring perches made such a difference that that it should be considered a necessary part for anyone that lowers an early Miata.
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Jun 20, 2012 15:05
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Oh well at least I'll get to toy around with it for a month or two before I store it for the winter.
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Blaise posted:What's the current hot ticket for street wheels/tires? I've been running 185/60/14 Star Specs on my 14x5.5 NA rims. A 15x8 6UL with 205/50 star specs? Or RE011s? I have no experience with it but I'd think 15x8 wheels and tires are going to make the car feel pretty sluggish compared to the light and tiny stock wheels. Swap over whatever you have on your turbo'd miata to see what it's like on your stock one.
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Jun 20, 2012 15:16
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Well it's only a 205 tire, not a 225. I thought a 205 tire was OK for a stock miata?
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Jun 20, 2012 15:21
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15x8 6ULs are about the same weight as the 14x5.5 OEMs. You'll be fine with a 205, 225 would likely work fine with maybe some occasional rubbing and would be for sure fine with a fender roll.
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Jun 20, 2012 15:38
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15x8 wheels for a 205/50R15 tire 15x9 wheels for a 225/45R15 tire Blaise, you have an aftermarket suspension, right?
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Jun 20, 2012 15:47
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Phone posted:15x8 wheels for a 205/50R15 tire Yep, FM springs, tokico shocks and FM rear perches. I'm not opposed to running 15x9s and 225s on my street car but it's kind of funny that the two vehicles are getting so close minus the track gear (rollbar/seats) and turbo kit. Blaise fucked around with this message at 16:18 on Jun 20, 2012 |
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Jun 20, 2012 16:15
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Currently debating between hawk HPS and HP+. Car is autox'd, daily driven, and lap days are going to start after a roll bar. I'm not worried about dusting or noise, but I am worried about not having enough heat in the pads in freezing weather. Should I just plan to swap pads when I throw on winter tires, or are Either of the hawks okay year round?
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Jun 20, 2012 16:59
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You're going to want track pads for track days and street pads for street days. The HPS makes a good bit of dust but would work for autox and winter. I say go for two pads and swap only for track days.
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Jun 20, 2012 17:21
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Miata protip: using the windshield sprayers with the top down is a bad idea.
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Jun 20, 2012 17:44
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revmoo posted:Miata protip: using the windshield sprayers with the top down is a bad idea. It's fun when she doesn't expect it  Almost forgot, here's the $820 miata:  Still needs an alignment, top patch, and to pull that dent and some little stuff. This is the one from the hit and run thread from a few months back that I picked up for $500. Needed a subframe and pair of control arms but she's back to life  This was before...  Gonna learn how to detail this weekend then it'll really look nice 
Blaise fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Jun 20, 2012 |
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Jun 20, 2012 18:08
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Blaise posted:What's the current hot ticket for street wheels/tires? I've been running 185/60/14 Star Specs on my 14x5.5 NA rims. A 15x8 6UL with 205/50 star specs? Or RE011s? Im currently running RS3s in 225/45/15 on factory 15x6s. Works pretty well for E-Stock so far. Only done one event on them and only got 3 runs at that event but I was pretty close to the slicks and the STR/SSM miatas.
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Jun 20, 2012 21:35
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Blaise: have you gotten a quote to repair the rear quarter? I think you might be able to get out for under $1k with a bad paint match, but passes the 10 foot rule.
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Jun 20, 2012 21:51
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Blaise posted:You're going to want track pads for track days and street pads for street days. The HPS makes a good bit of dust but would work for autox and winter. I say go for two pads and swap only for track days. That's kind of what I figured. I'm guessing the HP+ would be a bit much for street driving in the winter? I've always replaced the rotors when doing pads, do I need a set of rotors for the track as well, or can I swap pads & use the same rotors? I just use regular napa rotors.
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Jun 20, 2012 22:45
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If you stay with the same manufacturer of the pad you should be good. The HP+ works from 0-800F and would be sufficient for your first two HPDEs.
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Jun 20, 2012 22:48
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Phone posted:Blaise: have you gotten a quote to repair the rear quarter? I think you might be able to get out for under $1k with a bad paint match, but passes the 10 foot rule. $1k would be insanity. I have less than $1k into the car and I'll be happy to see $3200 out of it when sold, fixing the panel is out of the question unless it can be PDRd as it would cut into my profit.
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Jun 21, 2012 13:26
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$2600 Miata - not mine. http://wenatchee.craigslist.org/cto/3091396019.html
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Jun 21, 2012 14:41
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Blaise posted:$1k would be insanity. I have less than $1k into the car and I'll be happy to see $3200 out of it when sold, fixing the panel is out of the question unless it can be PDRd as it would cut into my profit. Would be a good excuse to learn how to do body work
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Jun 21, 2012 18:38
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leica posted:Would be a good excuse to learn how to do body work It really doesn't look that bad. I daily drive my yellow car with a worse dent.
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Jun 21, 2012 19:18
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Any reason not to get the Hard Dog Hard Core double diagonal hard top roll bar?
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Jun 22, 2012 05:37
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Price
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Jun 22, 2012 11:50
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Your head will crack like a melon if it bounces off it?
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Jun 22, 2012 16:15
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leica posted:Your head will crack like a melon if it bounces off it? Haha, is this conjecture, or has this happened? It was always a worry of mine when I had cars with that bar, especially the hardtop-capable version.
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Jun 22, 2012 16:23
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Phone posted:Price Right, but what other options are there? I could get one fabed up locally but I don't know how much I'd trust that. And it wouldn't be that much cheaper as far as I can tell. As for the head part, that's part of why I'm getting the hard top version, it sits further back, and I'm putting some dual density foam pads on it. I need it for the track so I'm just trying to make it safe for the street.
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Jun 22, 2012 16:47
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leica posted:Your head will crack like a melon if it bounces off it? I hear a lot how roll bars in a street car are a dangerous and bad idea. Where can I read more about this? More than forums posts and here say at least. Also, what recommendations are there for improving roll-over safety with a Miata?
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Jun 22, 2012 18:08
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Sadi posted:Right, but what other options are there? I could get one fabed up locally but I don't know how much I'd trust that. And it wouldn't be that much cheaper as far as I can tell. I was saying that the double diagonal costs a bit more than the single diagonal. I have the hard top single in my car and it's great.
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Jun 22, 2012 18:38
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meatpimp posted:Haha, is this conjecture, or has this happened? It was always a worry of mine when I had cars with that bar, especially the hardtop-capable version. It happened to me test driving a customers car hitting a pot hole, I got a really nice knot on my head, imagine if I was in an actual accident. Ever since then I have been vocal against roll bars for street use until Hard dog came out with their "street" roll bars. obeyasia posted:I hear a lot how roll bars in a street car are a dangerous and bad idea. Where can I read more about this? More than forums posts and here say at least. Also, what recommendations are there for improving roll-over safety with a Miata? Hard dog has roll bars designed for street use (Sport models), aka not close to your head in case of an accident, however they are not SCCA approved. You have to use the Hard Core line for racing, which is too dangerous for street use IMO.
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Jun 22, 2012 19:07
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It is dangerous from an accident standpoint, but I'm lucky to be 5'8". Cracking your head open is a real risk seeing how most HPDE clubs require high density foam to prevent your helmet from immediately cracking.
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Jun 22, 2012 19:32
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leica posted:Hard dog has roll bars designed for street use (Sport models), aka not close to your head in case of an accident, however they are not SCCA approved. You have to use the Hard Core line for racing, which is too dangerous for street use IMO. Not if you use a proper seat.
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Jun 22, 2012 22:27
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So then I have to buy seats too? Sure maybe if I'm gonna race it or AutoX it on a regular basis, otherwise it's pointless. Not everyone tracks their Miatas. If you're not racing then just get a street bar, problem solved. Back before the street bars were available there were all kinds of people running hard core bars on their daily driver with their heads literally right next to the bar, it's just a really bad idea.
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Jun 22, 2012 23:46
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Top question. Does anyone have any photos of a Miata with the softtop frame up with no top material on it? Since I mainly use my hardtop, and my softtop is torn up, I was thinking of ripping the material off the softtop and getting some mesh material to block the direct sunlight. Like this:  I know they make bikini tops for Miatas, but the one I saw requires a roll bar which I don't have. That said I don't want this to look too trashy, so yell at me if this is a stupid idea. edit:  Found one. Maybe attaching material from Bow 1 to Bow 3/4, and removing the straps? blugu64 fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Jun 23, 2012 |
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Jun 23, 2012 21:47
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| # ? May 16, 2024 12:26 |
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Just a slightly educated guess, but I don't think the top frame will be able to stand on its own without the tension from the fabric, so you'd be looking at basically fabricating the whole top out of mesh to make it go up and down properly. Edit: looks like that's the solution, but drat that looks goofy as hell.
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Jun 23, 2012 21:58
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