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astrollinthepork posted:Personally, I do the Ocelot hands.
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Jun 22, 2012 03:02
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Boru posted:Speaking of asbestos . . . that's some pretty scary poo poo! So are you going to try to get the piston out of the brake caliper? Unless I missed a post, it sounds like it's pretty well stuck. This means you should check the condition of the caliper and the piston and see if there is any rust, pitting or scoring on it. It needs to be a perfectly smooth surface on both sides for the piston to slide properly. If the brake lines and the master cylinder are working you should be able to force the piston out by just squeezing the lever over and over and adding fluid while the caliper is off the disk.
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Jun 22, 2012 03:29
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I mean I seriously didn't think I was in any hazard (besides gas fumes, the bike falling on me, pinching my hand, 
) when I was dicking around with a bike: it all seemed so wholesome and safe! I'm a bit freaked out by it now, hah. I have the drum assembly in my backroom and, after reading your posts, I ran in the back and tucked it into a sealed bag while I wait for the new shoes to come in. And then I went about sanitizing any surfaces my work gloves may have touched. 
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Sir Cornelius posted:The radiator you've already got and a good radiator repair shop. Thanks I'll find some place tomorrow and hope they can fix it. Think they'll try and weld up this aluminum bit or what?  the horn was rubbing this spot at full lock
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Jun 22, 2012 04:07
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Boru, it's generally understood to come from prolonged exposure, so don't flip out and have the house sterilized or anything. Still, why chance something that's latent for decades and announces itself six months before lights out? No one really knows what constitutes "a lot," so why not get it as close to zero as possible? Jerry Lewis did telethons for half a century and raised $2.5 billion for MD. Are we honestly any closer to cracking that one? No. Instead, we have rear end implants and erections on command. drat, I ranted again, didn't I...
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Jun 22, 2012 05:30
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I believe you meant "erections on demand." Erections on command seems to have an entirely different and much more perplexing set of implications.
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Jun 22, 2012 05:57
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Marv Hushman posted:Boru, it's generally understood to come from prolonged exposure, so don't flip out and have the house sterilized or anything. Still, why chance something that's latent for decades and announces itself six months before lights out? No one really knows what constitutes "a lot," so why not get it as close to zero as possible? Jerry Lewis did telethons for half a century and raised $2.5 billion for MD. Are we honestly any closer to cracking that one? No. Instead, we have rear end implants and erections on command. Boner pills is just supply and command.
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Jun 22, 2012 06:03
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aventari posted:Thanks I'll find some place tomorrow and hope they can fix it. Think they'll try and weld up this aluminum bit or what? Take a look at this: http://www.motorcycleradiators.com/miscpage_004.asp as an example. Most shops takes about a $10-20 for the first weld and $5 for each additional weld. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 06:42 on Jun 22, 2012 |
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Jun 22, 2012 06:36
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Marv Hushman posted:Boru, it's generally understood to come from prolonged exposure, so don't flip out and have the house sterilized or anything. Still, why chance something that's latent for decades and announces itself six months before lights out? No one really knows what constitutes "a lot," so why not get it as close to zero as possible? Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I don't think it's actually that big a deal, unless you see big puffs of powder hanging in the air around your head when you mess with this poo poo, and you do it frequently. The latest research suggests that a single exposure at a moderate level can cause you to develop cancer later in life even in the absence of other risk factors. I mean, obviously there are higher-risk circumstances (asbestos miners who also smoke cigarettes, for instance, are virtually guaranteed to get mesothelioma eventually), but asbestos is insidious that way. And Rev. Dr.: the fibers are invisible and never degrade, which is why it's of concern to people in schools and office buildings and stuff, not just people who work with it every day. That said, yes it's only dangerous when it gets into your lungs, so if you wear a respirator, work outside, and and keep everything damp to prevent dust generation you should be pretty safe while working on your brakes. Seal the old shoes and the rags you used in a plastic container, or double-bag them, and throw them out with the regular trash (ultimately asbestos is just rock, after all...not going to hurt any wildlife). e: old gaskets are also like 50% asbestos by weight, too, so be careful when you're scraping those off
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Jun 22, 2012 08:38
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Random question: did the USA ever get the 400cc Monster? That seems like it'd be a cool bike.
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Jun 22, 2012 08:51
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I don't think it's actually that big a deal, unless you see big puffs of powder hanging in the air around your head when you mess with this poo poo, and you do it frequently. Yeah I think I may try taking the caliper apart completely. Here's a pic of it as it stands. I took it this close up to show my buddy where I scored the cylinder with the c-clamp (when the cardboard buffer slipped out  ): I kind of just want to try bleeding it while pushing in the piston to see if that'll do the trick. Although, considering the rear brakes fell apart when I tried to get the rear wheel mounted, I'm thinking it may not be a bad thing to get a good look at the front brake. The real joy of all this is that I didn't really *want* a project bike, but rather one that was more or less ready to ride. And yet here we are! :iamafag: Marv Hushman posted:Instead, we have rear end implants and erections on command. 
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Jun 22, 2012 11:38
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MotoMind posted:I believe you meant "erections on demand." Erections on command seems to have an entirely different and much more perplexing set of implications. GO GO GADGET [your secret word goes here] Editor's night off. Though it wouldn't surprise me if the clinical trials were already underway.
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Jun 22, 2012 12:48
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I replaced the cylinder head gasket on my CB400T back in April. Last weekend My dad suggested that I check the torque on the bolts since I had the valve cover off anyway to clean up that gasket. When I checked the bolts, number 2 on the rotation (bottom right bolt when looking from above) just spun in the hole. I took it out and saw a ring of aluminum around the bottom. Obviously when I went to put it back in, it just spun in the hole, I assume the threads in the head are stripped. Any way to fix that? I also am assuming its whats causing my latest oil leaking adventures.
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Jun 22, 2012 13:15
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Sagebrush posted:Random question: did the USA ever get the 400cc Monster? That seems like it'd be a cool bike. I THINK the 400 was something Ducati produced very specifically for Japan and its graduated licensing (and tax?) system, which made larger-engined bikes undesirable or unattainable for many riders. The 2v 600 was already so slow that the 400 was a bridge way too far, and/or producing the 400 just for the Japanese market was uneconomical. e: actual answer, if so they probably weren't grey imported for the same reason other stuff that isn't homologated isn't. If I remember my own experience with this, you can basically either import it temporarily and pay a bond or pay to have it homologated yourself(!). Exception is if the manufacturer or someone dumb has done #2 for you at some point in the past. Saga fucked around with this message at 14:13 on Jun 22, 2012 |
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Jun 22, 2012 14:09
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When my bike is cold, the clutch sticks. Meaning, with the bike in gear and the clutch lever fully pulled in, the bike won't roll freely. Putting it in gear with the engine running but not warmed up enough will stall it. By "bike is cold" I mean that the engine temp is less than 120F or so, it doesn't matter what the ambient temperature is. I can unstick it if I put it in gear with the engine off, pull in the lever, and roll the bike back and forth a bit, hard to say with how much force. Maybe what you'd use if you were pushing a bike up a hill from a stop. So my questions are -- is this normal? Is there anything to do to fix it? Am I hurting anything if I break it free by rolling it forcefully or should I just let it warm up?
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Jun 22, 2012 16:28
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frunksock posted:
No, but not terribly unusual. I'd say you are due a change of friction plates. Ducati dry clutches are the easiest clutches in the solar system to change, this includes moons with very low gravity. If yours is a wet one, a bit more work but still easy.
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Jun 22, 2012 16:40
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Boru posted:How much of a pain-in-the-rear end are brakes? I REALLY don't want to gently caress that up as it's my rear end (and every other body part, really) on the line if I mess up installation. Keep brake cleaner away from anything rubber and you'll be okay. The hardest part is probably going to be getting the seal on/off. Bleeding isn't hard it's just tedious. \ that should still be okay if the scratches are on the INSIDE of the piston. if they're on the outer edge you might be fuckered.
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Jun 22, 2012 17:26
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Boru posted:Yeah I think I may try taking the caliper apart completely. Here's a pic of it as it stands. I took it this close up to show my buddy where I scored the cylinder with the c-clamp (when the cardboard buffer slipped out Do you have the brake reservoir cap open while you're trying to push the piston back in?
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Jun 22, 2012 17:32
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Chris Knight posted:I replaced the cylinder head gasket on my CB400T back in April. Last weekend My dad suggested that I check the torque on the bolts since I had the valve cover off anyway to clean up that gasket. You can fix it, you'll need to pull the head and get access to the hole. Then the best way to repair it is a "Timesert" kit. http://www.timesert.com/ You might hear to use a helicoil, and they're cheaper but they're not as strong. I wouldn't try helicoiling a head bolt because if the helicoil pulls out you've just hosed up the hole even worse. (Been there, done that) You need to do it right the first time or the case is probably scrap. I used a Timesert to repair a ripped out sparkplug thread in my F4i and it worked incredibly well.
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Jun 22, 2012 19:22
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Do motorcycle brake pads have the same shims that make them squeak when they're wearing down? Also, what's a good pad material that works well for street riding and light track use?
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Jun 22, 2012 20:18
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Internet Meme posted:Do motorcycle brake pads have the same shims that make them squeak when they're wearing down? No. The brake is hanging out there; the expectation is that you can look at it before every ride. EBC HH or EBC Extreme Pro were recommended to me for heavy street and light-to-moderate track use.
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Jun 22, 2012 21:06
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Internet Meme posted:Do motorcycle brake pads have the same shims that make them squeak when they're wearing down? I've found EBC HH to be overkill for my kind of street riding - I prefer the softer organic material. YMMV. On my Buell I am currently using a set of Braking CM55 Sport pads. Really can't complain; if I hit the endo lever hard enough, I could actually endo.
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Jun 22, 2012 21:20
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aventari posted:You can fix it, you'll need to pull the head and get access to the hole. Then the best way to repair it is a "Timesert" kit. http://www.timesert.com/
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Jun 22, 2012 23:20
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Ola posted:No, but not terribly unusual. I'd say you are due a change of friction plates. Ducati dry clutches are the easiest clutches in the solar system to change, this includes moons with very low gravity. If yours is a wet one, a bit more work but still easy.
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Jun 23, 2012 02:27
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frunksock posted:Thanks. It is a wet clutch. Though, it has always done this. Even when it was less than a year old. I guess the important question is 'am I could to hurt anything by just knocking it loose every time I ride' because I don't have a problem with that if I'm not contributing to a more expensive and/or safety-impacting failure down the road. Do you know what type of oil you're running? I find I run into this more with regular oil than synthetic.
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Jun 23, 2012 02:42
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frunksock posted:Thanks. It is a wet clutch. Though, it has always done this. Even when it was less than a year old. I guess the important question is 'am I could to hurt anything by just knocking it loose every time I ride' because I don't have a problem with that if I'm not contributing to a more expensive and/or safety-impacting failure down the road. What bike do you ride, and what oil do you feed it? I take it for granted that you've already mechanically adjusted your clutch the best you could, right? Depending on what you ride and who you know, bend shift forks might be rather expensive and you might be contributing to a potential problem by just ham-fisting it. It's a block-split and a fistful of parts to replace. A worn wet-clutch will not have the problems you describe. It'll just slip and not be hard to engage at all. Anyway, even a short cell phone video recorded by your mom might be helpful. Preferable with you trying to engage the clutch on your cold bike. Internet Meme posted posted:Do motorcycle brake pads have the same shims that make them squeak when they're wearing down? Some of them does, I guess. I'm not sure that I really understand the question. There's a scream-layer on ECB pads that won't hurt your rotors too much, shims are not related to that though. Shims are, where I live, spring plates between the pistons and the pads. I'm not sure we talk the same language. If you're worried about your pads, why don't you just check them? Shims can make your perfectly new pads scream, if you forgot to lubricate them though. Anyway, screams equals service. Now! Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 06:19 on Jun 23, 2012 |
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Jun 23, 2012 06:11
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I found a really tiny nail in my back tire today, and I don't seem to be losing any air from it. Do I leave it? Can it be patched? It's up inside one of the treads so it won't normally contact pavement.
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Jun 23, 2012 07:03
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Safety Dance posted:Do you know what type of oil you're running? I find I run into this more with regular oil than synthetic. Sir Cornelius posted:What bike do you ride, and what oil do you feed it? I take it for granted that you've already mechanically adjusted your clutch the best you could, right? I'll get a video the next time someone's at the house, or see if I can wedge the phone somewhere stable. In the meantime I guess I'll just let it fully warm up before riding. Thanks guys.
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Jun 23, 2012 07:07
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:I found a really tiny nail in my back tire today, and I don't seem to be losing any air from it. Do I leave it? Can it be patched? Tubed or tubeless? Tire plugs for tubeless tires work great, I highly recommend them. Just get the regular stringy auto-store stuff. In theory you could ride around with the nail in there, but it would suck to have it start losing air far from home. I assume you don't carry a compressor with you?
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Jun 23, 2012 07:10
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:I found a really tiny nail in my back tire today, and I don't seem to be losing any air from it. Do I leave it? Can it be patched? Yes, it's easily patch-able. Are you sure it's gone through the tire. If not, don't bother. Eh, re-read your post - you didn't remove it yet? If you don't plan to go ice-racing in the near future, please remove it. Preferable do this close to home or at least in a friendly neighborhood. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 11:42 on Jun 23, 2012 |
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Jun 23, 2012 07:14
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Boru posted:Yeah I think I may try taking the caliper apart completely. Here's a pic of it as it stands. I took it this close up to show my buddy where I scored the cylinder with the c-clamp (when the cardboard buffer slipped out I still have my CX500 Haynes manual, maybe I should send it to you?
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Jun 23, 2012 13:54
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thylacine posted:I still have my CX500 Haynes manual, maybe I should send it to you? Yeah, that'd be awesome! I have a '81 Custom (dunno if that matters). I would love to at least pay shipping and give you something for your trouble. PM me, and I could work something out.
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Jun 23, 2012 15:47
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Boru posted:Yeah, that'd be awesome! I have a '81 Custom (dunno if that matters). I would love to at least pay shipping and give you something for your trouble. PM me, and I could work something out. http://coodie.com/cx/
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Jun 23, 2012 16:18
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Is there any other way of checking chain wear than the ones I have thought of? - Wiggle sideways, feel for slop - Tug lengthwise, feel for slop - Bend links, feel for resistance - Measure 10 links for stretch I have done the 3 first and even though it has 27000 km on it my chain feels perfect. Haven't done the last, haven't looked for a good base measure to compare with. Swapped the rear sprocket. While it's worn, it's not very bad.  I'll do the sprockets, but not the chain. Dumb? Cornelius will be happy to know it's from Biltema.
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Jun 23, 2012 21:17
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Ola posted:I'll do the sprockets, but not the chain. Dumb? Probably. There's at least a trip to Spain and back left in the replaced rear sprocket.
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Jun 23, 2012 23:13
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Yeah that sprocket looks pretty drat new. And personally, I just adjust my chain out until it's either all the way out or it starts getting kinks, then I replace.
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Jun 23, 2012 23:28
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Oh well, it's done now. The front is a bit worse. But the chain stays, so that's money saved which will be deposited in the Rioja/Cava/Serrano ham fund. Pretty happy with the longevity!
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Jun 23, 2012 23:29
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I was doing baby's first valve adjustment on my EX250F and managed to shear off one of the 10mm bolts on the camshaft chain guide. I had my torque wrench set for 18.5 ft-lbs ~ 25 Nm, which is what I interpreted from http://faq.ninja250.org/torque/ex250f/. I guess I was very wrong. The victim:  The scene:  You can't quite tell from the picture, but the rest of that bolt is hiding in there in the red circle. For reference, I believe the bolt itself is part 130 and the chain guide is 12053 on this diagram: http://i.imgur.com/7FaUI.png You might ask why I was even dicking around with the camshaft chain guide off in the first place. That's because I earlier managed to drop the screwdriver part of my valve tool into that side of the engine.  I had to take the chain guide off to get enough wiggle room to retrieve it. Then in the act of putting it back on I did the above.All of that said, what are my best options here?
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Jun 24, 2012 05:03
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I was wondering what I should be on the look out for when I go and look at a bike on Monday? It is a 1980 Honda CB650 with just under 7k miles. Since it must have been sitting for a long period of time at some point in its life (it has been ridden by the current owner, and runs well) I am a bit wary! edit: Meant wary, but I suppose I am a bit weary too. vs Dinosaurs fucked around with this message at 05:35 on Jun 24, 2012 |
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Jun 24, 2012 05:28
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vs Dinosaurs posted:I was wondering what I should be on the look out for when I go and look at a bike on Monday? It is a 1980 Honda CB650 with just under 7k miles. Since it must have been sitting for a long period of time at some point in its life (it has been ridden by the current owner, and runs well) I am a bit weary! Sitting outside or inside? Check the frame for rust or damage. Check the level of the oil. Check closely for oil leaks. Pull up the dust boots off the forks (carefully, as they may be brittle) and check the fork lowers for pitting. Push down on the front suspension and check the lowers again for oil, this will tell you if the fork seals are shot. Check the tires for signs of dry rotting. Check the exhaust for signs of rust or holes. Check the rear sprocket and chain for wear. If possible, do a compression test, check the spark plugs if you do. Bring a multimeter and test battery charging circuit (this one's important you don't want to be chasing down charging problems). Check wiring for signs of wear/modification. Keep in mind that old bikes are always going to have mechanical surprises waiting for you. You needn't be overly picky, but you do want to avoid the major stuff like frame, engine, or charging system damage. Odds are good that anything made of rubber on a 30 year old bike is going to be in need of replacing, but you can point these out to the seller when it comes to haggling time.
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Jun 24, 2012 05:52
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Saga posted:I THINK the 400 was something Ducati produced very specifically for Japan and its graduated licensing (and tax?) system, which made larger-engined bikes undesirable or unattainable for many riders. Yeah, the >400cc license is a bitch by all accounts, my friend has been riding for years (including a year and a half in Japan on international permits) and he failed it on his first go, and that's the watered-down conversion for foreigners. The one Japanese people take when doing a license from scratch is even harder, and schools (which basically everyone does) often costs over $2000. I'm doing the 125-399cc license from scratch now and the practical exam is not fun. There are definitely a lot of 400cc bikes here that you don't see elsewhere because of the tiered licensing. I was thinking about a Transalp 400, but the motivation to get a 250cc is pretty strong (don't have to do the expensive safety inspection every two years, but can still get on the expressways), and the aforementioned friend happens to have an XL250R he's selling I'd be perfectly happy with. You can also wait the 25 years for it to be able to come in as a classic (or whatever the exemption is called). I think we're getting pretty close to when the earliest Skyline GT-R's are eligible, I am 99% that the same thing applies to bikes. Related to that, are there any Aussie posters in here who have experience getting an imported bike complianced? I know it's not the nightmare it is in America, as there are supposedly 15-20 Africa Twins running around that have been privately imported, and I found some posts about people doing it with Harley's too. I've been considering either bringing the XL250R (maybe not worth it in absolute terms, but it'd be one less thing to worry about buying/selling, and was thinking of going in on a partial shipping container with another guy anyways) or picking up an Africa Twin that's out of shaken and bringing that.
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Jun 24, 2012 06:51
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