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front wing flexing posted:My advice is to not stay up all night working on carbs. You'll lose something or put something on wrong in the wee hours of the night. Thirding this. I've spent far too many frustrating hours puzzling over something that is easily solved with the light of a new day.
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Jun 27, 2012 02:22
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I applied a quite liberal amount of that Bel-Ray chain grease to my SV, let it sit for a few hours, and then rode around town. It didn't really fling much at all, and it seems to have penetrated the chain throughout. I like it. More because it's not spray-on, meaning no lube poo poo splashing everywhere during the application progress. 
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Jun 27, 2012 02:27
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Viper_3000 posted:Personally I use Dupont Teflon chain lube. You can find it in most Wal Marts for around 6-8 bucks in the automotive section, bright yellow can. I used the blue can, but they changed it for 2012. I'll have to switch to the yellow can, which is a lot harder to find around here.  http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/dupont-motorcycle-chain-lube-2012/
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Jun 27, 2012 02:50
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Anybody around here ever ridden (or currently own) a wee-strom? Thoughts? My riding buddy has a DL1000 and absolutely carves on that thing. He even still has stock squishy suspension on it. All he's done is replaced the seat and disabled the dual throttle plate thinger for less restrained power. I sat on it and it was more comfortable than most chairs I have EVER sat on and I REALLY like the dual-sport riding style as my legs get quite cramped on the EX250. I am 5'10" but my legs have never liked being bound up. The DL1000 is a bit big for me, but I hear the weeeestrom is actually a smaller bike (not just the engine) and might fit me quite well. Possible upgrade in the future I am thinking!
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Jun 27, 2012 05:06
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Safety Dance posted:What is the CA-recommended chain lubricating fluid? I usually use something or another that I find in Ace Hardware; it's supposed to be a chainsaw chain lube. SAE 50 motor oil, I paid ~$30 for 5 liters. It says "for Harley Davidson motorcycles until 1970" on the can and is made by Kroon. Cheap-rear end vintage thick-as-syrup oil, it's good stuff.
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Jun 27, 2012 08:13
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Z3n posted:Thirding this. I've spent far too many frustrating hours puzzling over something that is easily solved with the light of a new day. I'm curious how my first carb rejetting is going to go. It seems most people end up having to do it three times. Here's a question, do I jet for the altitude of where I live (5 meters) or where the racetrack is (150 meters)? I'd guess jet for the track but then I can't test it out without driving for 2 1/2 hours.
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Jun 27, 2012 10:43
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Gnaghi posted:I'm curious how my first carb rejetting is going to go. It seems most people end up having to do it three times. Here's a question, do I jet for the altitude of where I live (5 meters) or where the racetrack is (150 meters)? I'd guess jet for the track but then I can't test it out without driving for 2 1/2 hours. Just depressurise your garage. Geez, do we have to explain everything. 
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Jun 27, 2012 13:42
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Dellikose posted:I used the blue can, but they changed it for 2012. I'll have to switch to the yellow can, which is a lot harder to find around here. Wow, thanks for the heads up. I just bought a can of the teflon spray and thankfully it's still the old formulation. It's pretty disappointing that they changed it.
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Jun 27, 2012 14:55
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What's a good book/resource on understanding how a bike is put together? I'm considering doing a front end swap, but I have no idea what the difference is between forks and legs, what spacers are, where sprockets are, how the chain is hooked to the engine, etc...
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Jun 27, 2012 17:11
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Internet Meme posted:What's a good book/resource on understanding how a bike is put together? I'm considering doing a front end swap, but I have no idea what the difference is between forks and legs, what spacers are, where sprockets are, how the chain is hooked to the engine, etc... The repair manual for your bike will have all the pictures you need. Supplement with manufacturer microfiche online (go to bikebandit or whatever).
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Jun 27, 2012 17:14
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Internet Meme posted:What's a good book/resource on understanding how a bike is put together? I'm considering doing a front end swap, but I have no idea what the difference is between forks and legs, what spacers are, where sprockets are, how the chain is hooked to the engine, etc... What swap are you considering? Start with something well documented that won't screw with the steering geometry of your bike to much.
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Jun 27, 2012 17:54
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Internet Meme posted:What's a good book/resource on understanding how a bike is put together? I'm considering doing a front end swap, but I have no idea what the difference is between forks and legs, what spacers are, where sprockets are, how the chain is hooked to the engine, etc... Bear in mind that a front end swap is not (in 99% of cases) a bolt on affair, and saying "front end swap" in the same sentence as "I dont know what sprockets are" could very well be a recipe for personal injury. Doing even a well-documented front end swap without fully understanding it and the bike can get you in big trouble fast. Not that you cant do it, but unless there is something wrong with your current front end, you probably wont notice any of the benefits of a front end swap at your current level of understanding (and presumably riding skill).
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Jun 27, 2012 18:45
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Safety Dance posted:What is the CA-recommended chain lubricating fluid? I usually use something or another that I find in Ace Hardware; it's supposed to be a chainsaw chain lube. Before it goes on the bike the chain gets soaked in 10w40 and 90wt gear oil. Subsequent treatments are gear oil only. Yes, I frequently use filtered, used gear oil. This is on my standard roller chains.
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Jun 27, 2012 18:55
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I cleaned all the sticky factory grease off my DID y-x-z-tilde-ring chain when I fitted it, then I've just been wiping down the chain every now and then with whatever oil I had to hand, tried a dedicated offroad bicycle chain oil but found it too sticky, now I'm just wiping it down with my old engine oil; some fairly toasted 10W60 full synthetic of various pedigrees from my oil dumping bucket. Seems to be doing the trick, chain looks good, rings look like they're in good nick. A++ would cheap out again!
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Jun 27, 2012 19:03
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I've always seen a lot of you all using gear oil, but how do you apply it?
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Jun 27, 2012 19:04
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Jack up the back of the bike - I just use a squeeze grip clamp on one side Soak rag in oil Hold rag around chain Turn back wheel E: Go for a spin on the bike to determine whether you got enough on. If there's oil flung everywhere, you have enough oil on the chain... now. ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Jun 27, 2012 |
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Jun 27, 2012 19:06
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nsaP posted:I've always seen a lot of you all using gear oil, but how do you apply it? Spin tire rapidly with right hand, run one bead down the orings out of the squeeze bottle for one full rotation of the chain, squirt some on a rag and wipe the grit and grime off the sideplates. If you're having problems with throwoff, you're using too much.
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Jun 27, 2012 19:10
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Is a Grunge Brush and a spray bottle of Kerosene a good setup for cleaning a chain, or will that just force junk deeper?
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Jun 27, 2012 19:16
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nsaP posted:I've always seen a lot of you all using gear oil, but how do you apply it? Centerstand, bike in gear with the idle turned way up, supersoaker. Safety Dance posted:Is a Grunge Brush and a spray bottle of Kerosene a good setup for cleaning a chain, or will that just force junk deeper? works perfect on my standard roller chains.
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Jun 27, 2012 19:18
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Safety Dance posted:Is a Grunge Brush and a spray bottle of Kerosene a good setup for cleaning a chain, or will that just force junk deeper? Not keen on using a brush for the possibility of pushing grime under the o-rings, give it a good rub down with parafin/kerosene and oil it, the grime will soften up and gently fling itself off as you ride. Though in my case it burns a lovely patina on the bottom of my silencer, which houses a catalytic so it's hotter than a thousand suns. Smells good, mind.
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Jun 27, 2012 19:21
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After you start using gear oil, you never have to clean the chain again because the final wipedown with the rag provides a light layer of oil on the plates that means any cleaning is super easy. I don't like using brushes either because of the possibility of thrashing an o-ring, which means your chain is toast.
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Jun 27, 2012 19:33
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Z3n posted:After you start using gear oil, you never have to clean the chain again because the final wipedown with the rag provides a light layer of oil on the plates that means any cleaning is super easy. I don't like using brushes either because of the possibility of thrashing an o-ring, which means your chain is toast. STANDARD CHAIN SUPERIORITY!  Tooth brushes work well for cleaning. Unfortunately, even if you don't immediately damage an o-ring, you're more likely to shove dirt into them and wind up ruining the chain (AND sprockets) faster because of it.
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Jun 27, 2012 19:46
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:STANDARD CHAIN SUPERIORITY! Such a thing does not exist.
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Jun 27, 2012 20:56
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Z3n posted:What swap are you considering? Start with something well documented that won't screw with the steering geometry of your bike to much. A CBR 600F3 front end onto a Hawk GT. F2/F3 swaps are fairly common, and the parts cost less than upgrading the stock brake and suspension setup. If I do it, it'd be with the help of another Hawk guy. I wouldn't normally be considering it but there's a guy who's unloading a cache of F2/F3 parts for cheap.
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Jun 28, 2012 00:03
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Internet Meme posted:A CBR 600F3 front end onto a Hawk GT. F2/F3 swaps are fairly common, and the parts cost less than upgrading the stock brake and suspension setup. If I do it, it'd be with the help of another Hawk guy. I wouldn't normally be considering it but there's a guy who's unloading a cache of F2/F3 parts for cheap. Ahh ok then, you should be good. What needs to be done on the swap?
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Jun 28, 2012 00:25
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Z3n posted:Ahh ok then, you should be good. What needs to be done on the swap? From what I understand, it's like lego. You unbolt the forks, slide out the front, and then bolt on the F3 front end. The forks/triple/topclamp/wheels are all interchangeable. I could do just the forks and the brakes in a similar way. The speedo is usually a problem but I already have an electric one.
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Jun 28, 2012 01:36
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Internet Meme posted:From what I understand, it's like lego. You unbolt the forks, slide out the front, and then bolt on the F3 front end. The forks/triple/topclamp/wheels are all interchangeable. I could do just the forks and the brakes in a similar way. The speedo is usually a problem but I already have an electric one. That's a good choice for a first swap then...keep it simple. I'd recommend finding a cheap, running ~$500 bike and returning it to good, working, stockish condition. Restore each of the parts as close to stock as reasonable, with a focus on things done with elbow grease over parts swapping, so stuff like replacing bearings, lubing linkages, cleaning up parts, etc, and you'll learn a lot and have a cool bike/cool story to go with it.
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Jun 28, 2012 01:50
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Internet Meme posted:A CBR 600F3 front end onto a Hawk GT. F2/F3 swaps are fairly common, and the parts cost less than upgrading the stock brake and suspension setup. If I do it, it'd be with the help of another Hawk guy. I wouldn't normally be considering it but there's a guy who's unloading a cache of F2/F3 parts for cheap. Thats good, if theres someone who's done it before to check your work theres much less chance of things going south. Good luck!
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Jun 28, 2012 02:14
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Okay, so I've loosened the clutch cable but it's still moving when I clutch out but just revs like no other when I throttle. This bike ('04 Rebel) only has 1600 miles on it, what else could it be?
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Jun 28, 2012 04:01
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I'm helping a buddy fix a 2008 Kawasaki Vulcan. It was left sitting for 6 months, after this it would start and idle but the engine would die as soon as the throttle was moved. A brand new battery was installed, no change. We put seafoam in the gas tank, didn't really help. Then we started to rip the carburetor out. While the carbs were still in the bike spraying carb cleaner into one of the open carbs would make the bike rev and then return to idle. We got the carb out, the main jets on each one were completey blocked, I cleared them with spray carb cleaner and blasted all the little channels in each carb and we put it all back together. It's still barely better than it was before, so right now the gas tank is drained and drying out in the sun, it's been on the same old gas the whole time. When that's done we'll try fresh gasoline. Note that gas did flow out of the tank when the valve was opened, so the tank is not clogged. Any thoughts on this?
Binary fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Jun 28, 2012 |
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Jun 28, 2012 04:07
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Binary posted:I'm helping a buddy fix a 2008 Kawasaki Vulcan. It was left sitting for 6 months, after this it would start and idle but the engine would die as soon as the throttle was moved. A brand new battery was installed, no change. We put seafoam in the gas tank, didn't really help. Then we started to rip the carburetor out. While the carbs were still in the bike spraying carb cleaner into one of the open carbs would make the bike rev and then return to idle. We got the carb out, the main jets on each one were completey blocked, I cleared them with spray carb cleaner and blasted all the little channels in each carb and we put it all back together. It's still barely better than it was before, so right now the gas tank is drained and drying out in the sun, it's been on the same old gas the whole time. When that's done we'll try fresh gasoline. Note that gas did flow out of the tank when the valve was opened, so the tank is not clogged. Any thoughts on this?
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Jun 28, 2012 05:01
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You didn't clean the pilot jets. Do it again, and run some wire through them.ifire posted:Okay, so I've loosened the clutch cable but it's still moving when I clutch out but just revs like no other when I throttle. This bike ('04 Rebel) only has 1600 miles on it, what else could it be? If you rode it for a few hundred miles with a slipping clutch, you may have torched the clutch plates.
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Jun 28, 2012 06:57
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Is adjusting a clutch cable relatively straightforward? The clutch on my scooter/moped thing doesn't start to engage until the last 1/4 of travel or so (was like that when I bought it), friend says I oughta adjust it.
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Jun 28, 2012 07:32
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Is adjusting a clutch cable relatively straightforward? The clutch on my scooter/moped thing doesn't start to engage until the last 1/4 of travel or so (was like that when I bought it), friend says I oughta adjust it. You should have something like this right where your clutch cable meets the clutch lever. Procedure for adjusting the cable is as follows: -Turn the locky thing (the flat disk threaded on to the long bolt-looking thing) about half-a-turn toward the bike's rear, loosening it (it should be all the way up against the clutch perch). -The clutch cable itself runs through the long, bolt-looking thing. Turn that a few turns loose (it might help to pull on the clutch cable to release some slack). Check your clutch lever to see how it feels. Adjust loose or tight as needed. -Turn the locky thing so it's against the clutch perch again. The tension of the locky thing against the clutch perch keeps the adjuster in place. A word of caution: If you are all the way at the end of the adjustment for the long, bolt-looking thing, you need to replace your clutch cable because the original has stretched. Adjusting the bolt-looking thing too tight (i.e. too far out) will cause excess stress on the clutch and the clutch cable, causing them to both wear prematurely. You should have a little bit of slack at the beginning of the clutch lever's travel. Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 12:34 on Jun 28, 2012 |
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Jun 28, 2012 12:32
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ifire posted:Okay, so I've loosened the clutch cable but it's still moving when I clutch out but just revs like no other when I throttle. This bike ('04 Rebel) only has 1600 miles on it, what else could it be? Do you know what kind of oil is in it?
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Jun 28, 2012 16:56
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I'm going to get off my fat rear end and put a tank protector on the Connie. Anyone have any easy tips for ensuring it is centered?
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Jun 28, 2012 20:34
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Z3n posted:If you rode it for a few hundred miles with a slipping clutch, you may have torched the clutch plates. That's what I'm afriad of. I didn't notice it slipping but that doesn't mean it wasn't. Looks like I'll just replace them anyway when I get paid. clutchpuck posted:Do you know what kind of oil is in it? I believe this is what I am using. It doesn't have the "energy conserving" part on the doughnut. No idea what the previous owners used. The first rode it for 290 miles and traded up for a bigger bike, the second bought it, dropped his friend's Harley and got scared and it sat for a few years. It's had the Pennzoil from mile 295 to 1600. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Pennzoil-1-qt-SAE-10W-40-motor-oil/_/N-26qq?itemIdentifier=690529_0_0_
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Jun 28, 2012 22:30
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Now and then with my 2001 SV650, it would give me a slight hesitation when I twist the throttle, like a half second's worth, before accelerating. I checked out under the gas tank two weeks ago and saw through the de-snorkeled air filter cover that my air filter looked dirty. I plan to check deeper tomorrow, but was wondering if the slight-hesitation issue could be from that?
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Jun 29, 2012 00:35
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It's a possibility. The wife's beemer runs like garbage if the filter requires cleaning.ifire posted:I believe this is what I am using. It doesn't have the "energy conserving" part on the doughnut. No idea what the previous owners used. The first rode it for 290 miles and traded up for a bigger bike, the second bought it, dropped his friend's Harley and got scared and it sat for a few years. It's had the Pennzoil from mile 295 to 1600. I'd drain what's in it and put some motorcycle-specific stuff in. Look for a JASO-MA certification on the label. This is inexpensive and definitely wet clutch compatible http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Castrol-1-qt-10W-40-4T-4-Stroke-motorcycle-oil/_/N-25ie?itemIdentifier=493838_0_0_ clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 01:08 on Jun 29, 2012 |
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Jun 29, 2012 00:48
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Just noticed brake fluid is suddenly leaking out the top of my bike. The level is still above the line, I popped off the top and there was a little plastic fleck floating around. And it looks like the plastic is actually corroded. What the Christ... http://i.imgur.com/43tWT.jpg http://i.imgur.com/n2MSS.jpg http://i.imgur.com/rSzre.jpg http://i.imgur.com/pJdDP.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Oxo11.jpg
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Jun 29, 2012 01:02
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