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SB35 posted:Looks like a key or even new ignition switch might be tough to find. Definitely try a few locksmiths though, they might be able to make something work for you. Thanks! I'm going to give these people a call tomorrow: http://www.motomacchi.com/ If they can't help me I'll give a locksmith a ring. If all else fails I may have to just 
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Jul 9, 2012 04:37
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| # ? Jun 8, 2024 00:25 |
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Red Robin Hood posted:I helped a family friend move this weekend and I'll be doing a bunch of computer work for them so they are giving me a beautiful Harley Davidson 250SX This is awesome.
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Jul 9, 2012 04:57
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Trying to figure out if this is normal cycle behavior or something else. I ride a '82 XJ750J Maxim and when I start it and it's warmed up, it idles at 1.5k It's weird to describe, so here's a couple scenarios I've run into repeatedly:
Is this normal behavior, are my carbs dirty, do I need to adjust the idle screw, or is there something else going on here?
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Jul 9, 2012 06:02
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Well, first of all adjust your idle screws. If that doesn't work, check for air leaks by spraying WD-40 or propane or something like that around the carb boots. If you can't make it idle properly by adjusting the screw and there are no leaks, then you'll have to open the carbs up and look for clogs. I had a very similar problem to yours and I couldn't fix it by adjusting the idle screw and there weren't any leaks. It turned out that the pilot jets were entirely clogged, and I had the idle screw pulled out so far that the bike was "idling" on a half-uncovered off-idle circuit jet instead. It would work well at moderate and high throttle openings, but the idle was never stable, and it would frequently race like yours does and other times repeatedly stall. I figured that the racing and stalling was due to the throttle plates not closing to exactly the same coverage of the off-idle circuit holes every time. After I unclogged the pilot jets and put the idle screws back where they were supposed to be, it stabilized and ran great.
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Jul 9, 2012 06:18
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Thanks for the info, I'll check for leaks once I have some time. I tried adjusting the idle screw awhile back but I don't think it was properly warmed up (had to make an emergency adjustment in a parking lot to avoid breaking the engine) so I haven't touched it since, I'll take a look at doing that later. I'm really hoping it's not dirty carbs as I haven't got a place to pull and work on it in (just an open parking lot). I'm currently running some seafoam through it hoping that will clear out any nastiness residing in there, but I can only hope for the best.
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Jul 9, 2012 06:25
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Ashex posted:Trying to figure out if this is normal cycle behavior or something else. I doubt it is your idle screw, since if your idle was that high you wouldn't see RPM (or speed) fall normally when you downshift. You might have a sticky slide that is hanging open, enough to push the RPM without any load on the engine. You might also have an air leak causing the idle to hang/rise. You may be able to pull the carbs off in the parking lot and bring them inside to clean them up. It will be tricky to test and synch them in a parking lot though.
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Jul 9, 2012 19:26
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Tamir Lenk posted:I doubt it is your idle screw, since if your idle was that high you wouldn't see RPM (or speed) fall normally when you downshift. I took that to mean that the engine slowed if he kept it in gear as he decelerated, which would always be true regardless of what was wrong with the carbs.
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Jul 9, 2012 19:51
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Sagebrush posted:I took that to mean that the engine slowed if he kept it in gear as he decelerated, which would always be true regardless of what was wrong with the carbs. Right, he is slowing when downshifting and staying in gear. If his master idle was hosed (i.e., set too high, stuck open), then the bike would not decelerate when downshifting (or not slow down normally) because the throttle would actually remain open at the carbs. IOW "closed" at the grip on the bad idle screw or setting would still be 1/8 or so open at the carbs if he's getting 4,000 RPM idling. So it would be like downshifting but keeping the throttle up, no decel or your decel will plateau.
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Jul 9, 2012 21:03
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Tamir Lenk posted:Right, he is slowing when downshifting and staying in gear. If his master idle was hosed (i.e., set too high, stuck open), then the bike would not decelerate when downshifting (or not slow down normally) because the throttle would actually remain open at the carbs. IOW "closed" at the grip on the bad idle screw or setting would still be 1/8 or so open at the carbs if he's getting 4,000 RPM idling. So it would be like downshifting but keeping the throttle up, no decel or your decel will plateau. Not the case. Idle adjustment is a very small opening in the carbs, probably about 1/25th of total opening. It's common for a high idle to get the RPMs up to 4k when the bike has no load on it with minimal throttle, but have it run relatively normally when cruising. It might run on a small amount, but it's not going to be all that noticeable unless you know what you're looking for, it's going to show up more as a drop in engine braking than anything else.
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Jul 9, 2012 21:14
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Red Robin Hood posted:Thanks guys I won't be riding it for awhile. More bad new, though... rear tire has a small nail in it and it's leaking so I'll have to get that replaced Unless those are very old tyres all you need to do is replace or patch the tube.
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Jul 9, 2012 21:19
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echomadman posted:Unless those are very old tyres all you need to do is replace or patch the tube. Is that safe on a motorcycle? Is there a website with a tutorial that shows how to do that in general? I've been reading up on these and it sounds like the wheels are super easy to remove...
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Jul 9, 2012 21:52
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How frequently should I realistically be changing the oil in my 2006 Ninja 650R? The owner's manual and factory service manual say new oil and filter every 600 miles, but that seems extremely excessive. At that rate, I'd be changing the oil and filter every three weeks.
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Jul 9, 2012 22:34
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First change is at 600 mile, I'm betting you're reading that manual wrong. 3k is a good set interval.
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Jul 9, 2012 22:46
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Guinness posted:How frequently should I realistically be changing the oil in my 2006 Ninja 650R? The owner's manual and factory service manual say new oil and filter every 600 miles, but that seems extremely excessive. At that rate, I'd be changing the oil and filter every three weeks. http://www.ninja650r.co.cc/Pdf/99986-1293%202006%20ER-6F.pdf I think the 1k interval listed in the manual is for the initial break-in oil change. After that, it looks like it wants oil every 12,000km or 7,200mi. Seems high especially for a common sump engine. If it were my Ninja, I'd probably stick to a every 4,000mi schedule.
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Jul 9, 2012 22:48
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Okay, derp, wow that makes way more sense. I should read closer, but this is kind of a counter-intuitive way to display a "periodic" maintenance table: At a glance it look like it is saying every 600 miles, which is how most maintenance tables I'm familiar with would have presented it. Thanks for clearing that up guys. Guinness fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Jul 9, 2012 |
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Jul 9, 2012 23:06
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What is the best type of oil to put into an older motorcycle? (1978)
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Jul 9, 2012 23:19
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Red Robin Hood posted:What is the best type of oil to put into an older motorcycle? (1978) Assuming you're talking about your SX250, it's a 2-stroke so it doesn't need crankcase oil - 2 stroke oil is different, it's burned with the intake charge, not pumped through the engine. I am not sure if you're supposed to premix oil in the fuel or if it has a reservoir, you should find that out. I use 76 Unimix in my DT175 and it seems to work well enough, no excessive smoke, hasn't seized yet. Gearbox needs some engine oil though. You should be able to put pretty much any type of motorcycle oil in the gearbox. I use Castrol 10w40 dinosaur oil in the DT's gearbox.
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Jul 9, 2012 23:47
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Yeah it does have a separate reservoir I guess I should have clarified that  I'll keep that in mind when I swing by the store today. Thanks!
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Jul 10, 2012 00:02
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I run ATF type F in my 2T transmissions... works great in everything from my '71 R5 to my '03 YZ250.
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Jul 10, 2012 00:37
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So I've been having trouble with my 05 ninja 250, a tapping/rattling from the engine. I replaced the cam chain tensioner but no joy. I just changed the oil and the oil and filter came out clean. Is that enough to rule out serious bearing/rotating assembly damage? Bike has 21000 miles.
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Jul 10, 2012 03:25
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tzam posted:So I've been having trouble with my 05 ninja 250, a tapping/rattling from the engine. I replaced the cam chain tensioner but no joy. I just changed the oil and the oil and filter came out clean. Is that enough to rule out serious bearing/rotating assembly damage? Bike has 21000 miles. Did you reinstall the CCT wrong? Does the noise come and go? Loud at idle, goes away under load?
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Jul 10, 2012 03:43
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 Help! I called a number recommended by a website to get a key made for my '78 SX 250. The fellow asked me for an ignition number or something but I have NO idea where that would be. I looked in the service manual and the owner's manual but all the owner's manual says is to write down the number on the key so that if you lose it you can replace it 
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Jul 10, 2012 03:51
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Red Robin Hood posted:
I believe you look on the key chamber and it'll be inscribed into it.
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Jul 10, 2012 03:53
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drat. I looked and looked but couldn't see anything. Do I need to take the key chamber off the body and take it apart?
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Jul 10, 2012 04:00
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Red Robin Hood posted:drat. I looked and looked but couldn't see anything. Do I need to take the key chamber off the body and take it apart? I think you have to take the key chamber out and take a look on that, but don't quote me on it - I'm working off memory of what someone said a while ago and it's a bit hazy. Someone else here should be able to confirm.
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Jul 10, 2012 04:27
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Z3n posted:Did you reinstall the CCT wrong? Does the noise come and go? Loud at idle, goes away under load? Yeah sorry was posting from my phone, sucks for typing. It is noticeable at idle, gets faster and I think slightly louder at speed (although I can't really hear it over the regular engine racket without earplugs). Haven't really ridden hard since noticing the noise (just gone up and down the street a few times)so I can't tell if it gets louder under heavy load but definitely does not go away at light engine load. Sounded exactly the same pre CCT replacement, pretty sure its installed correctly, I did it twice as per the ninja 250 faq. It's not the Ninja clutch thumping noise, happens under all levels of engagement. I did find an oil leak recently (valve cover), I'm pretty sure it never got below the sight glass minimum line though. About 2000km on the oil, came out clean (but dark), no particles of anything metallic (or anything else)(even ran a magnet through it).
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Jul 10, 2012 05:02
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How deployed is the CCT when you pull it out? Could be just that the cam chain has stretched beyond the limits.
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Jul 10, 2012 05:23
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Z3n posted:How deployed is the CCT when you pull it out? Could be just that the cam chain has stretched beyond the limits. The pushrod and bearing came out of the housing as I removed it, but the old one had grooves worn to around 5mm from the retention groove at the top of the pushrod, so that may well be the case. Is there a method to measure the chain wear? I'll hopefully have time to check the condition of the guides as well this week.
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Jul 10, 2012 05:49
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Shimrod posted:I think you have to take the key chamber out and take a look on that, but don't quote me on it - I'm working off memory of what someone said a while ago and it's a bit hazy. Someone else here should be able to confirm. Before I make any mistakes I'll wait for some more input  E: called MotoItalia and was able to get some solid information. I had to un-screw the chrome cap that the key goes through, take off the rubber piece the key goes into and then read the two really, really small numbers on that chrome piece under there. Wooh! Now I just need to find someone with that pre-cut
Red Robin Hood fucked around with this message at 21:28 on Jul 10, 2012 |
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Jul 10, 2012 05:59
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 Yes. Annd it starts! Wooo!  It's really hard to push it in neutral though. I squeeze the front brake and there's no squeeze to 'em, the lever is REALLY high. Will it loosen up as I ride? Or should I bleed the brake a bit? If I do need to bleed . . . how? Just push the front brake valve?
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Jul 10, 2012 21:51
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Boru posted:
You're using creatively vague language again. What do you mean no squeeze? You can't move the lever in when you squeeze, or you pull it in all the way without feeling any resistance? What do you mean "REALLY high" (man)? What do you mean "push the front brake valve"? Do you have a manual? If not, get a manual. It tells you step by step how to bleed brakes and if the bike's been sitting, you should definitely do new brake fluid before you ride it around. If you're too cheap for a manual, read/watch a few tutorials, it's a pretty standard process.
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Jul 10, 2012 22:04
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Found a guy that will cut and mail me two possible keys for my SX 250. $3/each shipped! I'll report back early next week when I get 'em! edit: is it easy to change the tube in a tire? Or should I take the tire off and bring it into a shop? Red Robin Hood fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Jul 10, 2012 |
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Jul 10, 2012 22:17
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clutchpuck posted:You're using creatively vague language again. 
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Jul 10, 2012 22:32
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You want resistance at the lever, a freshly bled brake is going to feel real firm. Is the brake dragging excessively? With the wheel off the ground, give it a solid spin by hand. If it goes around once or so before stopping on its own and if it stops immediately with a quick pull of the brake lever, it's looking good. The rotor will push the pads open a little as the bike rolls. If it was recently bled, then I wouldn't worry too much about it. If you're pushing it around in N with a cold bike, off, and the clutch lever out, it should definitely resist rolling. If you pull the clutch lever, hopefully it rolls easier?
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Jul 10, 2012 22:41
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Red Robin Hood posted:Found a guy that will cut and mail me two possible keys for my SX 250. $3/each shipped! You gotta remove the tire, remove the tube, put a new tube on, and put the tire back on the wheel. It's like changing a bicycle innertube. Z3n (or someone) will tell you it's pretty easy if you have a pair of tire spoons, but me, I'm lazy and would rather let a shop deal with it. It shouldn't take more than an hour of shop time to change both innertubes, especially if you take the wheels off and bring them to the shop. Edit: this video show's what's involved: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqiSV4WZb-c
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Jul 10, 2012 22:49
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It's only the rear tire that had a nail in it. Front tire pumped up just fine. Another question: what is a battery for if the bike is kick-start only?
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Jul 10, 2012 22:52
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The magneto (or whatever the bike has) is going to be generating all sorts of nasty voltages depending on how quickly the engine is revving. Things like headlights, indicators, relays, etc. aren't exactly delicate circuitry, but they don't like nasty voltage spikes. The battery smooths that out to a nice even 12 or 14 volts.
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Jul 10, 2012 22:55
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Safety Dance posted:The magneto (or whatever the bike has) is going to be generating all sorts of nasty voltages depending on how quickly the engine is revving. Things like headlights, indicators, relays, etc. aren't exactly delicate circuitry, but they don't like nasty voltage spikes. The battery smooths that out to a nice even 12 or 14 volts. well... the battery helps but the regulator is what does the 'smoothing' however a lot of regulators will blow if there's no load on them so you need a battery to maintain that load. Also, even if the bike kickstarts it won't necessarily charge at idle, meaning the magneto can't keep up with the electrical demands of the bike at idle. ESPECIALLY if the lights are on.
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Jul 10, 2012 22:58
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OK so I guess my question is: if the bike hasn't been driven in about a year or so should I charge the battery first?
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Jul 10, 2012 23:16
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| # ? Jun 8, 2024 00:25 |
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Red Robin Hood posted:OK so I guess my question is: if the bike hasn't been driven in about a year or so should I charge the battery first? It's always a good place to start. Seafoam in the carbs/tank never hurts either.
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Jul 10, 2012 23:32
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