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bull3964 posted:I've already seen more 2012 Imprezas on the road than I've seen 2008-2011 (at least in hatch form.) That's no easy feat since this is Pittsburgh and you can't toss a cat in a parking lot without hitting a Subaru. I think they look really good in person. Pittsburgh really is the best city to have a Subaru in. Half the roads are like a rally course in the winter. The other half are like one year-round.
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Jul 13, 2012 18:41
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Hey Subaru goons, I've been having some issues with my 100% stock '02 WRX wagon. I did the timing belt last weekend and I just started to get a horrible rattling noise that sounds like it's coming from the turbo/intercooler area. It isn't RPM dependent and doesn't sound like typical rod knock. I spent some time with a stethoscope trying to pin it down and took the front of the engine apart to verify the timing, make sure the tensioner didn't collapse, and generally look for things that are wrong. The timing is perfect, belt looks perfect, no codes, but I've got this crazy rattle. The engine itself sounds great. A friend pointed me in the direction of the up pipe. After watching some youtube videos I found one that sounds exactly like my car: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5tNk0IcDS-s. So I pulled my up pipe and the cat inside is totally intact, which surprised me a little given that it's a 194k mile car. One of the top heat shields makes noise when I knock on it, so I think I found the culprit. I guess my options are: 1) get out my welder and fix the heat shields on the stock pipe, reinstall 2) get out the welder, fix the heat shields, and somehow gut the cat 3) buy a aftermarket up pipe with no cat or heat shields I'm leaning towards option 1. Now that I've inspected the cat I'm not that worried about the turbo eating it since it's in very good condition. I would prefer to get the car back together this weekend since I need to use it next week. I live in CA and want the car to pass smog visual. Getting that pipe out is a total bitch and I don't want to have to swap the stock one back in the next time I need to get it smogged. I don't have any plans at the moment to mod the car beyond maybe some engine tuning down the road. I've heard that welded repairs to heat shields don't always last due to the thermal stresses these components are under. Should I worry about the repair lasting if I hit it with my MIG and beef up the original spot welds with a bead or two?
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Jul 14, 2012 02:06
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I tried looking around inside the thread but it's pretty long. Does anyone remember that site that had the fiberglass 22b widebody for GC/GF? I think jamal linked it awhile ago. Aerosim Research http://www.aerosim-research.com/shop/article_002/Fiberglass-Subaru-Wide-Body-Kit.html?shop_param=cid%3D1%26aid%3D002%26
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Jul 14, 2012 04:36
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I tried looking around inside the thread but it's pretty long. Does anyone remember that site that had the fiberglass 22b widebody for GC/GF? I think jamal linked it awhile ago. aerosim http://aerosim-research.com/
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Jul 14, 2012 08:44
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Bruinator posted:
I would weld it, if you are really concerned about it, rig up a hoseclamp.
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Jul 14, 2012 13:04
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What oil should I be picking up for my non-turbo EJ25?
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Jul 14, 2012 15:46
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Last month my mother's World Rally Blue 2007 Forester XT Sports was destroyed by a Dominoes dude in an Altima. We used to have a Seattle Area Subaru Dealer on the forums, is he still around? I need to replace this with a World Rally Blue WRX Wagon.
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Jul 14, 2012 19:27
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Sockington posted:What oil should I be picking up for my non-turbo EJ25? I've been using Rotella 5w40 in mine.
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Jul 14, 2012 20:37
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oh dear lord  
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Jul 14, 2012 21:00
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Sockington posted:What oil should I be picking up for my non-turbo EJ25? I've been using Royal Purple 10W-30 in mine for years, seems to love it. When I used Mobil 1 it would slowly disappear without evidence, no tailpipe smoke and no leaks. RP seems to stay where it belongs.
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Jul 14, 2012 21:28
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Alzabo posted:Last month my mother's World Rally Blue 2007 Forester XT Sports was destroyed by a Dominoes dude in an Altima. fuuuuck, that sucks.
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Jul 14, 2012 22:51
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Going to be doing the front brakes on my 2008 STi next weekend with a mechanic friend of mine. Got brembo drilled rotors, Hawk HPS pads and ATE super blue fluid off of tire rack. I'm so excited I could just hug every one of you!
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Jul 14, 2012 23:47
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Why drilled rotors?
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Jul 15, 2012 00:02
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Why hawk HPS pads? ( I have them and don't much like them due to not having much grab when they're cold, aka when you need them most)
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Jul 15, 2012 04:55
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Amandyke posted:Why hawk HPS pads? ( I have them and don't much like them due to not having much grab when they're cold, aka when you need them most) Ditto, I had them on my 02 and really hated them for that reason. They also separated from their backplate before they were worn out. I replaced them with stoptechs and have much better bite.
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Jul 15, 2012 06:24
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drilled rotors for grins and Hawk HPS because that is whats on my car right now and I have had no problems at all with them. This is a DD car and I dont track it at all. I just picked up job in southern california as opposed to DFW Texas so I will have the opportunity for some cool canyon runs in the near future. I'm sorry to hear of your bad experiences with the hawk pads but they have served me very well in day to day function as well as emergency stop situations.
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Jul 15, 2012 10:29
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So my throttle body coupler hose has finally split, and the foam on my y-pipe is all crumbly and gross looking. Are any of the silicone intercooler hose kits better than others? I have the stock '06 WRX top mount intercooler. It seems like Samco is better than random Chinese crap but I'm looking for something that's pretty resistant to blowing off and durable in the long run.
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Jul 15, 2012 17:51
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After welding my up pipe heat shields and reinstalling the noise was still there. The plastic flywheel inspection cover on the top of the trans under the intercooler had fallen in and was bouncing around on the flywheel. After fishing it out, no more noise.
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Jul 16, 2012 01:54
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A friend of mine works at a local Subaru dealer and a 2011 sti limited came in, would it be worth the 500$ a month for 6 years for me to grab this car? It has 9K on it and is super clean. I would like the goon perspective. Edit: Linkhttp://www.berterasubaru.com/used/Subaru/2011-Subaru-Impreza+WRX-380801ad0a0d048e01816fb6565ba573.htm Rocketmoose fucked around with this message at 05:14 on Jul 16, 2012 |
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Jul 16, 2012 05:11
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Rocketmoose posted:A friend of mine works at a local Subaru dealer and a 2011 sti limited came in, would it be worth the 500$ a month for 6 years for me to grab this car? It has 9K on it and is super clean. I would like the goon perspective. I would personally wait and see what the next iteration or two of WRX's bring with them (namely wait for the redesign). Plus I'm not a huge fan of leather seats. But if it's what you want, that's not a terrible price. You could probably knock them down a few 500 or so as well. But if I wanted to buy an STI right now, I'd buy a brand new standard STI rather than a used limited.
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Jul 16, 2012 06:27
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Rocketmoose posted:A friend of mine works at a local Subaru dealer and a 2011 sti limited came in, would it be worth the 500$ a month for 6 years for me to grab this car? It has 9K on it and is super clean. I would like the goon perspective. Why would you want to be paying payments on a car, particularly one with some known expensive issues (pistons), long after the warranty has expired? So, no. God no. Edit: Wait a minute. You can buy a new STI for that. I don't care if has leather or some poo poo, that is insane. Some special wheels and a sunroof isn't worth that. nm fucked around with this message at 07:19 on Jul 16, 2012 |
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Jul 16, 2012 07:15
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c355n4 posted:Meh, there is nothing wrong with NA Imprezas. Cheaper gas, less poo poo to worry about. Run forever. And you can still play in the dirt. While I'm counting the days (six months left) until I get my new STi, my base Impreza isn't too terrible. The biggest downfall is the heinous 4-AT. thealphabetsez posted:I just let mine off to its new owner. One hell of a paper-exchange adventure, alas after 2-years and 36,000 miles, my 2011 STi wasn't getting used like it should have been. Now it's on to a new chapter. Loving the exhaust tips on your DGM. 36k in two years? Good lord you drive a lot. War Bunny fucked around with this message at 15:15 on Jul 16, 2012 |
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Jul 16, 2012 15:09
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So I finally started to play with the STi again yeaterday I relocated the battery, and today i put on the new fmic. Today I found out that the Treadstone fmic core is basically a direct replacement for the APS one I had on there, all the aps piping fit perfectly. It will no doubt need more trimming of the bumper, and there are no provisions for mounting on the support for the bumper like there was on the APS. Hopefully my jdm fogs will still fit, but anyway it was a good replacement for my old school tube and fin one.
Holdbrooks fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Jul 16, 2012 |
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Jul 16, 2012 20:03
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nm posted:Why would you want to be paying payments on a car, particularly one with some known expensive issues (pistons), long after the warranty has expired? I decided against it, back to looking for a 2007 that was not abused too much.
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Jul 17, 2012 00:05
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Rocketmoose posted:I decided against it, back to looking for a 2007 that was not abused too much. Why 2007? The 06 is more reliable by most interweb accounts. That said, I don't know much about the GD STi. Or really the GR 
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Jul 17, 2012 00:40
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The difference is pretty slight and mainly center around the stock tune, which you'd probably be flashing anyways.
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Jul 17, 2012 05:08
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Why 2007? The 06 is more reliable by most interweb accounts. That said, I don't know much about the GD STi. Or really the GR 07 because it is newer, this car is going to be a daily driver. I know in the grand scheme of things that does not matter but god only knows why my brain works the way it does. DEUCE SLUICE posted:The difference is pretty slight and mainly center around the stock tune, which you'd probably be flashing anyways. Right on the money, good sir.
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Jul 17, 2012 12:28
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I have a new Outback, and I don't drive a lot (having a 3 mile commute and commuting most days on a motorcycle will do that). I'm getting close to my 7.5 month service interval, but I'm only at 5,100 miles. I guess I should do what the manual says and take it in at the end of the month?
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Jul 17, 2012 13:43
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I would, that kind of driving is very hard on your oil.
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Jul 17, 2012 13:46
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Safety Dance posted:I have a new Outback, and I don't drive a lot (having a 3 mile commute and commuting most days on a motorcycle will do that). I'm getting close to my 7.5 month service interval, but I'm only at 5,100 miles. I guess I should do what the manual says and take it in at the end of the month? Unless you are taking your car to the track on weekends/driving it like a rally car/beating the crap out of it, simply follow the manual and don't think twice about it. It makes very little sense to spend $20,000 on a car and then skimp out on the regular maintenance.
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Jul 17, 2012 17:59
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Aye aye, especially since it's free for the first 60Kmi.
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Jul 17, 2012 18:45
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Safety Dance posted:Aye aye, especially since it's free for the first 60Kmi. I'm not aware of Subaru doing any free maintenance promotions.
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Jul 17, 2012 18:47
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I didn't pay for my last oil change, I know that much. I can dig through the paperwork to figure out exactly what the deal is, but I'm fairly certain my maintenance for 60Kmi / 7 years is covered.
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Jul 17, 2012 18:49
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Safety Dance posted:I didn't pay for my last oil change, I know that much. I can dig through the paperwork to figure out exactly what the deal is, but I'm fairly certain my maintenance for 60Kmi / 7 years is covered. It must have been a local dealer promotion. I know mine gives me discounts on state inspections, but there's no free maintenance. I have had subaru replace wear items within the first 30k miles. On my '02, they gave me new front brake pads at 27k since they were close when I got the car inspected.
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Jul 17, 2012 18:53
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bull3964 posted:It must have been a local dealer promotion. My mom's 12 Impreza is getting free oil changes for the first 30k or so, as far as I am aware. I figured it was a "new car" thing that most places did now. My dad's RX8 got the same when it was new, too.
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Jul 17, 2012 19:00
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The 200SX in my fleet has free lifetime oil changes and is transferrable. The local Nissan dealership was basically going bankrupt when they cut that deal to try and move the car. I think it's on like its 80th free oil change.
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Jul 17, 2012 19:04
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Crossposting from my project thread because it'll get more attention here not surrounded by cat pictures: 2002 Legacy GT Limited throwing these codes P0447 - Evaptorative Emission Control system P1400 - Fuel Tank Pressure Control Solenoid Low Input P1446 - Fuel Tank Sensor Control Valve Circuit Low Already replaced the filler neck and the filler neck flappy valve. The charcoal box has three rubber hoses going in and they look okay. What's next? Slow is Fast fucked around with this message at 13:28 on Jul 18, 2012 |
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Jul 18, 2012 02:01
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Slow is Fast posted:Crossposting from my project thread because it'll get more attention here not surrounded by cat pictures: Typing in those three codes and Subaru bring up "stuck EGR". When is the interwebs wrong?
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Jul 18, 2012 11:07
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daslog posted:Typing in those three codes and Subaru bring up "stuck EGR". When is the interwebs wrong? http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/egr-valve-issues-72388/ Leads me to believe when the old motor died it puked all sorts of fun poo poo into the EGR system.
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Jul 18, 2012 12:31
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Now that my motor is done, I asked for a price on a v8 ej207. They are $4k. I am guessing I could get a fair amount done with my existing engine for that much. What do I get for a new short block? Is it worth replacing bearings or just getting something new? Do I get a wrecker 2.0 or are they as likely to be garbage as mine is? I will get the oil pickup, anything else? My plan at the moment is to get it running on the old turbo (how do you clean all the bits of metal out of a turbo? hot tank too?), then get a new 18g-XT-R and install the injectors I already got. Whats the easiest engine removal? Leave the transmission in the car, unbolt and lift out?
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Jul 18, 2012 19:05
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